Passat (B5) :: Dashboard Will Just Shut Off For About 2 Seconds While Driving
Dec 5, 2009
As of about a week ago I have noticed that while driving once in awhile the dashboard will just shut off for about 2 seconds and go black all dials drop to zero and then it will come back on again but with everything reset to 0. I also now have an airbag fault lit up on the dash that was never there before. The car runs fine and does not shut off or anything when this happens but is unnerving. I scanned the ecu and no codes.
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I have a 1996 F250 460CI that was running great for years and all of a sudden it shut off for a few seconds when I was on the expressway. It was like turning the ignition key off and turning it back on. It did it several times and eventually just died and would not start. I put a new coil on and it worked fine for about 150 miles and now it started doing the same thing again. The check engine light was on for a few seconds but not all the time so I am not sure if diagnostic equipment will show any error messages. Mileage on my truck is 92k. Does this sound like a distributor pickup issue?
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I just bought this 97 passat vr6 today off of a friend currently don't run, friend told me that 1 day while driving it just shut off, would not start waited a while fired back up got it home now will not start, so i messed with it today took coil pack off had a little crack fixed it, car started ran maybe 45seconds then shut off and just cranks won't turn over, is this due to the coil pack or maybe crank sensor or knock sensor??
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I have a audi a4 1.8t engine code atw and for awhile i would have random no starts then about two weeks ago it shut off while i was driving home from school and hasn't started since. it turns over fine but i am getting no spark and im getting the error codes p1517, p1433, and p0321 so far i have changed the crank position sensor, the cam position sensor, and the ecm main power supply relay. Still I am getting no start i cant figure this out...
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I would like to know if my car has a fuel shut off if you drive too fast?
and if yes how can you remove this?
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I am having this weird issue that started from what I believe this weekend. I was doing 70mph and it was snowing. Not always but something like maybe 1 out of 5 times when I activated the washer fluid motor my headlights would turn off for like 1-2 seconds. Super scary when you are driving in the pitch dark on a highway.
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My cousin was driving his car last weekend and the car shut off on him, after we towed it home i hooked it up and got the following codes:
2 Faults Found:
012555 - Low Pressure Fuel regulation: Fuel Pressure Outside Specification
P310B - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - MIL ON
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 11100001
Fault Priority: 2
Fault Frequency: 2
004767 - Low-Pressure Fuel Pressure Regulation: Pressure too High
P129F - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 2
I cleared the MIL and its off but its still throwing the second code.. What would cause this? failing fuel pump?
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So the other day i was driving down the road, pulled into the gas station and the car shut off and the dash began flickering rapidly.
I popped the hood and the thing that controls the air fuel mixture- when you step on the peddle it moves(sorry cant think right now lol) well it is moving slightly back and forth rapidly also.
I popped the panel under the steering wheel off because i heard a flickering noise coming from it when the key was turned and it was coming from the fuel pump relay.
My question is- is the fuel pump relay something that would just fail and cause the car to shut off. or is it making the clicking noise an indicator that there is a problem somewhere. I looked up the part and it is only 40 bucks, but I am low on money and cant afford to be fishing around ordering parts trying to diagnose the problem.
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Okay, So this has happened to me about five times now over the past year or so. I will be driving and my car will literally shut off. yesterday, I was driving on the freeway and was just cruising at 75mph when all of a sudden out of no where my car makes a big jolt and then the rpm's go from around 3k to 0. I have had this in the shop for this problem many times and no one can really seem to figure out what is wrong. when my car shuts off while im driving, the oil light comes on, traction control light comes on, as well as the battery light. What's even more weird about this problem is once the car stops, if i try to start it right away it wont fire up... It will just roll over. But. if I wait for a while the car starts and drives normal with all the lights off. This is not only annoying but very dangerous.
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I have a 2007 Prius with 145,000 miles.
We drove for an hour and a half. No problems on the way there. When we left there, there were no dashboard lights. The screen worked fine. So did the headlights and turn signals. But, no speedo or other dashboard lights. I wasn't worried. I figured we blew a fuse so I am going to check in a few minutes.
But when we got home, I couldn't turn the car off. I pressed the On/Off button many times and nothing. I tried putting the key fob in the socket, and hit the button and it shut off.
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I recently picked up a pre-owned Lexus RC350 F-sport and have been noticing something that kinda annoys me.
So when ever the car is on "ECO" Mode, the Eco light on the dashboard blinks on and off every few seconds. Is this something normal?
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I have a 2008 Honda Accord that about 4 months ago the drl light on the dashboard would come on for a few seconds and then go off. This happened 2 or 3 times a week. During this time the driver side drl light would also quit working. A couple of weeks later it progressed to the drl dashboard light would come on, then the tpms dashboard light would also come on. After an intermittent period of time (seconds to minutes) the icon showing low tire pressure would flash for a second and the drl light and tpms light would go off. This happened maybe 3 times in a day, then not happen again for a week or so. Air pressure in all tires was correct. About week ago it progressed to the drl dashboard light and the tpms dashboard light stay on all the time and neither the drl light (drl mode or high beam or will work on the driver side. In the past few days the low beam on the driver side has also quit working.
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Symptoms:
1. When the air is on, it only comes out of the dashboard vents. If I change the flow to be all on the floor, defrost windshield, or anything else, it won't change the direction of the air; it continues to come out of the dashboard front air vents.
2. There is a buzzing that lasts from start for about 10 sec. It then quits. It will come back on for a couple seconds and then go off. It is only in the cabin; cannot be heard outside the car. If we turn off the air, the buzzing stops, but not immediately.
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Just recently, my Brake light started coming on, on my dashboard for several seconds or more then going back out. I checked the fluid and it was fine. The next time the brake light came on, I noticed that the needles for Both my Speedometer and RPM gages dropped to zero for as long as the Brake light was illuminated. Once the brake light went off, the needles once again showed my speed and RPM (were functional). This occurs while I'm simply driving down the road.
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I have a 2014 Camry SE with about 30k miles on it. Recently, I notice 2 rattles.
1) When I turn on my car, I hear a rattle/buzz sound for about 10 seconds sounds like its coming from the dash from my passenger side, then the rattle/buzz goes away.
2) There is a constant rattling noise the is coming from my driver side dashboard. I do not hear it on smooth roads but once I go through bumps or cracks on the road the rattle is noticeable and annoying. Sounds like its from the speaker by the windshield but i really cannot tell as i am trying to focus on the road. Maybe its something loose?
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My car has the same issue, its a 2001 santa 2.4 . Its starts and then shut off after 3 seconds. camshaft was replaced twice already. still same issue, die after 3 seconds. everything seems to be fine.
What about fuel pressure at the rails? If the pump runs for a moment when the key is turned to the on position then when cranking it stops. That would let the engine start and run for about three seconds. Could it be the ignition switch?
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So I go to start up the old girl the other day and she turned right over, ran for about 2 seconds, and shut down. I tried to start it again with the same result. When I turn the ignition forward, before starting it, this image with a car and a key below it starts flashing on the gauge and the odometer starts flashing "service". I tried using a different key with the same results, what this might be?
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I installed a factory remote start system on my 2011 sonata. the car will start run for a few seconds then shut off and the start sequence begins again this happens over and over until I unlock the door and add pressure to the brake pedal.
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I have a 2007 Jetta with 75k miles on it. What I'm running into is that out-of-the blue, the car will not start. Generally, it turns over, but never starts. One time, it started but shut itself off after 3 seconds. Warning lights that flash are the steering wheel indicator and sometimes the traction control and immobilizer lights. I replaced the battery hoping that that would fix it, but it hasn't. Notably, the engine light is usually on when starting and goes off after 3 seconds, but now it doesn't go on at all.
The issue first started a few weeks ago, but I could successfully start it 15 min later. No issues for 2 weeks, until the traction control light came on and stayed on while driving. Nothing for a few days, and then suddenly could not start again (tried over a period of 3 days). Towed to a shop, where it started after two days.
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I'm having a problem with my 2003 Camry LE V6. It started when the CD play stopped working, and rather than going to the dealer I just bought an OEM one on craigslist. It works great, except now when I take the key out of the car after about 30 seconds the electronics shut off completely. Dome light goes out, map lights don't work, keyfob doesn't work, etc. As soon as I put the key in the car and turn it to ACC or ON everything comes back, but if I take the key out I lose power within 30 seconds or so.
I am assuming this is a security feature because there is likely a mismatch in codes between the original, and new radios.
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I have a 2003 Elantra 2.0 with no spark, no codes... anymore. The car was driven about 6 miles, shut off, went back out to start it, it ran for 10 seconds then shut down. Now it will not restart.
What I did: As per some of the advice of others I replaced the crank sensor, cam sensor, ignition coil, check compression, pulled codes from the ecu with one being a crank sensor. I have power at the fuel pump during crank, i can smell gas during crank, plugs are dry just no spark. Timing belt and timing are fine, engine sounds as it should during crank but no spark. There is power at the coils, crank and cam sensors. MIL is on when key is turned and goes off during crank.
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