Passat (B5) :: Coughing / Sputtering And Lurching Resulting In Only Being Able To Coast Along At Low Speed
Sep 1, 2006
My mom owns a 1993 Passat (V6). It has recently caused her endless frustration and she has paid many dollars, which she cannot afford, for "repairs" that haven't fixed anything. She describes the symptoms:
"I am driving along at highway speeds and the car suddenly starts coughing, sputtering, and lurching resulting in only being able to coast along at a low speed. Pressing the accelerator is no use. Intermittently, the power comes back, but eventually this syndrome results in an "overheat-like smell" and the car must be shut off. After resting for a little while the car restarts and runs normally before starting this behavior again."
She has now paid hundreds of dollars to a tech who admits he doesn't have all the VW diagnostic equipment, but who says he thinks he has found the problem. Do these symptoms sound like any known issues...
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3 times now in the last week, my 2000 accent has stalled. each time it was at a low idle, slow moving speed. I was rolling up to a red light twice, and gliding into a parking spot the other. There was no coughing or sputtering. It just stopped. Each time, after about 20minutes or so, the car fires right up. it happened twice today after about 4 miles of driving. If the car sits for a day without running (on an off day from work) its a bit hard to start sometimes, but not consistently. Does this sound like a Crankshaft position sensor? or possible a fuel filter?
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Im curious if this is normal or not. When I'm driving and I put my car into neutral to coast, the idle speed is at around 900rpm. When I come to a stop, the idle will drop to around 650rpm. Is this a design feature? I wish the rpm would drop more to conserve on gas while I'm coasting!
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I took my car in for the 10,000 mile service on friday. The tech noted that there is an active TSB for the 1.8 TSI engine that addresses an issue with the turbo engaging just before the shift from first to second gear resulting in a non-progressive throttle response. I told him that I didn't seem to really notice that issue, but to go ahead an install the software update anyway. He did. I'm surprised at the difference. The throttle is much more progressive and I feel like I have better control of the throttle. I highly recommend this update. This may also explain why the 2015 Passats with the same engine have a higher MPG rating than the 2014s. If this update prevents the turbo from coming on unnecessarily then that would certainly save on gas.
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Occasionally, randomly, and unpredictably when accelerating from a slow speed coast I get no power response when I press down on the accelerator. It's as if the engine has stalled, but it has not. When the accelerator is held down for a few seconds (maybe 3 to 7) power comes back with a rush. Examples:
1. Making a U turn from a left turn late. Accelerate slowly forward, take foot off gas as the turn is initiated, press down on gas to accelerate out of the turn and get no immediate power response.
2. Making a left turn into a suicide lane. Accelerate to cross 2 traffic lanes, let off gas and coast slowly forward in the suicide lane while waiting for oncoming traffic to clear, traffic clears, press down on gas and get to response. Continue to press slowly down--no response. Hold the accelerator half or 3/4 down, power surges back after a few seconds.
3. Rolling slowly down a long left turn lane with foot off gas timing oncoming traffic, traffic clears, press down on gas to initiate the turn, no response. Let up on gas and press down again, no response, let up an press down again and car reacts normally.
Occurrences of this problem have been very random. I have spent a good deal of time in vacant parking lots trying to cause the problem to occur without any luck even though I know well the conditions under which it happens. I have left the car with the dealer but, of course, they can't observe the problem either. I have driven nearly 1000 miles without an incident and then had 2 occurrences within 4 miles of each other. I have about 5000 miles on the car and have logged 17 incidents.
Loosing power in traffic is, of course, dangerous. I was about to initiate action under California's Lemon Law when I went to England for 3 weeks in Sept. I rented an Audi A1 and to my surprise I experienced a very similar problem, but it happened much more often. An example would be entering a roundabout, letting up on the accelerator while looking at directional signs, reapplying accelerator pressure and getting no response. Unlike the Hyundai I didn't seem to lose all power, but couldn't get any acceleration. The Hyundai engine is the 4 cylinder turbo and has an electronic throttle. I don't know what the Audi had by way of mechanics. I'm at a complete loss; is there something I don't understand about electronic throttles? I don't have a clue about the source of this problem, but I know I need to get it resolved before I get rear ended.
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Some of you with TDI's equipped with DSG's may or may not have these issues - but now there appears to be a fix. I've had a problem with a long delay in the DSG engaging from a stop. Also, I've had some engine hesitation and lurching issues.
Here is information from my paperwork after having those issues repaired. There was an ECM Software update to fix engine hesitation and lurching at low speed. That problem seems to be fixed.
UPDATE NUMBER: 23602599
Huge delay in the engagement of the DSG from a stop. There was a TSB for this specific issue dated on June 16, 2011. After my initial drive from the dealership to work --- this problem also appears to be fixed.
TSB NUMBER: 2011690/3 35-11-01
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I have a 2007 Passat 2.0T wagon. I got gas this am, and on my 30 minute drive to work all was fine until I got into traffic or came to a stop sign. While at the stop sign the car started to lurch forward or even seemed to be up and down. The idle was fine, completely constant. It was like the car was hopping or wanting to push forward. It did not happen in reverse or neutral and the car was fine while driving. What this could be?
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My wife's 03 Passat w/ 1.8t is bucking and lurching throwing a P0301 (Cyl 1 misfire) code. We have about 58k on the engine and had the dealer do the 40k service 2 years ago.
So far I replaced cyl 1 spark plug, swapped and then replace coil pack with new. My choices for parts were limited on a Friday night and these are el cheapo Autozone parts. Still missing and throwing DTC, I don't really have access to Vag-Com anymore (just OBD reader at parts store) and I don't have a Bentley's either (I know there's some eye rolling going on now).
How to troubleshoot the cause so I can make a decision to take to mechanic or do a few more parts swaps between now and Monday. I've got tools and a multi-meter. I used to have Vag-Com but it isn't supported on my new laptop (Vista), I tried the USB extension cord on my desktop but it is hit and miss.
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My 2004 Pontiac Bonneville has this problem sometimes when I start it up in the rain, if I start it up in the morning. It will sputter while I am in drive or reverse, and driving below 40 MPH. When I hit 40, it goes away and then will come back when I slow down or stop. It usually goes away after 20-30 minutes of driving.
This never happens when it's dry. My car runs smooth and normally when it's dry. When I took it into the shop, they could not find a problem.
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My transmission control module has gone bad, resulting in the car being in"limp" mode. I am advised not to drive the car in this condition as it starts out in 3rd and the transmission will be damaged. Thus far, my local dealer has, on a preliminary basis, been advised that there are none of these parts available anywhere in the world according to the computer and VW may have to manufacture one. This does not sound possible. Meanwhile, the dealer says no rental car will be offered so I am contacting VW North America to escalate. It could be up to a month to get a new part. Meanwhile, the car is in the garage just sitting.
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The ABS Module going bad resulting in the Brake Light and ABS Light remaining lit on the dash. Couple of questions:
1. Any preferences between using Module Master vs. ABS Fixer to get my module re-built?
2. MM told me to get the OEM from GM for confirmation. ABS Fixer told me to take it to a mechanic to see codes (1. Pump Running Failure or 2. CO265). I'm little leary that MM didn't tell me to do that and just assumed that the ABS was broken and I should just remove it and send it in. Who's right?
3. Also a little leary on trying to remove this myself. My unit is under driver door on top of the brake lines. Is it a difficult job (I can handle most things with good pictures and instructions) or should I take it in to local mechanic and have him remove it to send in?
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I have a 2007 Kia Rio LS. I can't get it to do this ALL time time, but when I accelerate hard (passing, getting off the line quickly) I hear a metallic sort of coughing sound from my car. It seems to happen around 30-40 MPH, but not the same speed each time. I think I may have heard that sound once while it was idling.
I have done all the scheduled maintenance (I'm behind a bit for the 70,000) that my mechanic has recommended, and I keep up OK with my oil changes. We've skipped doing the timing belt thing, because it's a tear apart job- we're going to wait until 'other things' need doing and get it all in one fell swoop. This is my road trip car. I'm worried my transmission is slipping, or my timing belt is prepping to do something horrible while I'm on the road. Probably in the middle of nowhere.....
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I travel to get to work, and on the way I use the interstate. Speed is posted at 55, naturally, but in the fast lane - the left-most lane of 4 - you have to keep up, you understand. Fast lane is usually 65 to 70.So I'm traveling on the Interstate and in order to use the faster lanes than the right lane I depress the accelerator, and the car - 1998 Pontiac Grand Prix - speeds up, as you would expect. However, when it reaches about 45 to 50 mph the car begins to ... cough. Just a little. If I step on the gas harder so that overdrive kicks in the car stops 'coughing'. As I decelerate there is no coughing, only when I am speeding up and hit that 45 to 50 mph barrier.What is causing this?
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Recently my old workhorse started coughing and stalling. This isn't consistent at all. I'll be driving and the car will lose power and come back to life. It also stalls at stop signs. Brought to my mechanic and left it for a week with him and he can't figure it out. 1988 Volvo 240 over 200,000....
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Driving home car started sputtering like crazy. vag com'd it and this is what i got from the scan!
Friday,06,April,2012,16:16:02:36785
VCDS Version: Release 11.11.2 (x64)
Data version: 20120126
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Chassis Type: 3C0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0F 15 16 17 19 1C 25 42 44 46 52 53 56 62 72
[Code] ....
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Have been noticing my 2003 SantaFe "coughing" on startup after sitting typically overnight or longer. Started noticing this after I went to Royal purple synthetic on an oil change. Started useing Mobil One synthetic and I am hearing the same thing. For a millisecond after I start it up after it has been sitting overnight or longer a quick "cough" kind of a sound that quickly goes away. No other problems apparent.
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I started my car up for work this morning and it starting sputtering. I tried backing it up and the power cuts in and out. The check engine light is flashing. What could be the problem?
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1992 Ford Ranger 4x2 with 2.3L engine and 5 speed manual transmission. 135,000 miles, no AC and no power steering. I am having poor clutch disengagement and resulting hard shifting. The shop added a little fluid to the reservoir last oil change and it is still looking full. I always park on concrete and never see any leaking. I don't know what may have been done before as I haven't had the pickup all that long. Where should I start? Is there probably internal bypass leaking in the hydraulic clutch as there seems to be no external leaking?
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Ii had drove my car about 20 miles and after i had got inside and turned it on to drive it again CEL started flashing and car was sputtering lost power and felt like it didn't want to move so I had taken it to a VW specialist and he diagnosed it and told me its my coil pack and its got a bit water inside it and I would need to replace it and he said he would charge me $300 to replace ...
So I figured if its just the coil pack I could most likely do it myself and could this be from the coil pack? and why would there be water in my spark plug? Should I replace all coil or just the one that's bad.
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This morning I was going leave, turned the key, car started up fine but had a very bad jerky/sputtery idle, like it was cutting in and out. Gas light was on and car parked uphill so first thought..hm must not be getting enough gas to start up. bf gets some gas in a jerrycan and empties it into the tank. Gas meter goes up, light goes off. Thought I was set to go so try to start er up again, nothing..car does turn over but its not getting any spark now. didn't have time to check much this morning as my bf was in a hurry for work so I just left it at his house for the day. I know coil packs and/or spark plugs could be the main thing and we're going to check them later after we're both done work..is there anything else I should check for? The engine light is on but we checked it with the code reader, its just the catalyst emissions stuff, no misfires or anything. (I drive a 2000 v6 4motion, tiptronic & car was parked there since saturday night)...
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I have a sputtering noise coming from my stock air box every time I step on the gas and let off the throttle. You don't hear it when your driving but you can hear it clear when the car is parked and your revving it. Just had a new Tranny put it. Its a 1.8T B5.5...
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