Passat (B5) :: Corrosion Causing Persistent Leak?
Jan 28, 2009
Am I the only one who has to add 10 psi a week to his tires? I have the stock GLX wheels from 2001 model year, and found out a while back that they are actually painted. The paint flakes off, and there's a bit of corrosion on the bead as well causing persistent leaks. When I have tires changed, my mechanic smooths off the wheels with a grinding tool and often applies some sort of gooey adhesive to maintain a seal, but it doesn't seem to work for long.
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We got a certified used 370Z about 4-5 months ago from a Nissan dealership. The car was great until we happened to look underneath at around the 3 month mark and noticed that there was a TON of corrosion under the front passenger side. We had not even had the oil changed in the car- it was exactly as it was when we got it from the dealer. We took it back to them, and they said the battery had been overfilled and had leaked all over the car. Now it is in with them, and they say they have to remove the engine in order to sandblast it. They also happened to mention that they wish they had caught it before because if they had they never would have certified it.
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Looking for some insight into the state of the motor in a 2002 XD. Short story is that it appears to be leaking oil from the valve cover gasket (common, I know) and sometimes winds up running extremely low on oil before it gets changed. When draining the minimal oil in these conditions, non insignificant amounts of water can be found along with the drained oil.
Car is at 155k miles, has exhibited this behavior for more than a year, and has no noticeable knocking issues, power loss, mpg loss, heating/cooling issues, or any other ill effects other than apparently making a mess in the engine bay, on the ground where it parks, and scaring people when draining the oil.
Logically this is going to not be the case forever.... Thoughts? Prognosis? Treatment?
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The drip pan under my 2005 X 6.0 was relatively full with coolant last week. The leak is intermittent, but persistent. After investigating, it appears to be coming from somewhere on the driver's side on the back of the engine. The coolant is running down the seam where the transmission mounts to the block, but I can't get my mirror back there to see exactly where it's coming from. It's not coming from the side of block and there's no evidence of coolant on top (in the valley).
I've only been doing "city" driving (no towing or highway trips) since before the leak began and the max ECT I've observed is around 205*, with 40-60* ambient temps. It's not overheating, but I have noticed the heater air is cool when I'm at a stoplight, suggesting the coolant level is low (I've refilled coolant once and heater worked fine afterwards).
I have not observed oil in the degas bottle, but have not yet checked the dipstick for coolant bubbles in the oil. Also, FWIW, I had to replace my degas bottle back in October after it cracked on the side. I do use ELC free, red coolant, have a coolant filter and flushed the system about 18 months ago.
Thoughts on source of coolant leak? Don't say head gasket....
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I've had a persistent diesel leak its gotten worse and I've found it. Its in the valley of the V. I've attached a photo of the part its the one with the plug off it.
What it is called and maybe the part number. The gray plug under the red wire.
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The truck has been a dream for several months and I had a coolant leak at the thermostat outlet. Changed the fitting and thermostat and sealed with lots of blue monkey snot. It's been perfect for a couple months but a week ago it started leaking again. Exactly the same as last time. I cleaned the mating surface of the water pump with a plastic scraper to remove the old sealer and then finished it with fine scotch brite. I looked at several parts breakdowns and none of them showed a gasket.......
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I have a persistent leak that causes the front passenger carpet to get wet after a heavy rain. Truck went to the dealer under warranty and they resealed the third brake light. Not sure if it ever fixed the problem, but I probably didn't check it as often as I should have after the repair. We've had a few good rain storms and the carpet is getting pretty wet. Since the truck is now out of warranty (2011 F150) I made a new gasket for the third brake light. I think it's pretty well sealed, so I'm thinking the leak is coming from somewhere else.
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I have a persistent rattle in the glove box. Have tightened the 7 screws which improved it somewhat, but it's still there when I go over bumps.
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First off, I would like to say that I really like how the engine rolls in my 06 Passat 2.0T. Suspension is great and the brake works well...so far. What worries me now is the persistent white noise I get in the cabin when the engine is on, driving or idling, EXCEPT when applying brake.
I took it to the dealer 2 times for this reason. The first time, the rep swore that he could not hear the sound and made a crazy person out of me. The tech wrote in the report that there is no problem. The rep explained that it is the sould of air circulating back (what air?).
So, I took it to an independent mechanic, the one I have been taking my other cars to (Nissan, Infinity, BMW) for the past 5 years or so. He readily heard the sound and identified it as vacuum leak.
I took the car back to the dealer and asked them to check, and it came back to me that the booster performs as per design. It is true that I haven't experienced any loss of brake power yet.
Meanwhile, the sound is getting stronger (and I don't think I am imagining it all, either). Now I have to turn on the radio or CD to muffle the noise.
(Now that my venting and ranting is done...)
Also, if it really is a vacuum leak, does it generate a code? So far, I have not seen any check engine light or check brake light and matchign description appear on the dashboard information console.
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I have a 2005 Passat Wagon, V6, 2.8L. I purchased this car used about a year and a half ago with 10,000 mi. It now has 32,000. I have done all scheduled maintenance. About 8 mo ago I started noticing a problem when starting the car. It seems to take a while for it to "turn-over" while starting it up. We've taken it to two different VW dealerships to try and solve the problem. About 4 mo ago, one of the dealerships replaced the ignition coil. They were able to read a memory chip of some sort to identify the problem I was having. Since this repair however, the problem has begun again. There is no consistency. Hot or cold temp. After sitting several hours or only a few minutes. The problem happens about one out of every five starts.
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So I was was tired of trying to tune my Holley 650 and finally threw in the towel and got a 600 Edelbrock. When the holley was on there the engine had the slightest surge but I was never able to pin down a vacuum leak. The PCV valve made quite the racket while running.
Now the edelbrock is on there and no matter what I did I could not get the idle below 750 (4 speed truck). I checked the carb, manifold, hoses, and boosters and no vacuum leaks. I disconnected the PCV port at the carb and plugged it and it immediately stalled.
I went down to the local speed shop and got a new PCV grommet that has a small opening (restricting) and some foam filter material in it. Got home and popped it in and the idle dropped right down to a near stall. Adjusted the screw and she's running fine.
Now for the question. Did I fix the problem or just band aid it? Has anyone heard of having to restrict the PCV circuit?
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I have a 2002 Audi A6 3.0 Quattro with a frustrating problem! There is a leak in the car causing the rear right floorboard to fill with water. I had it into the dealer in Oct. 2010 where they replaced the rear right window channels & seals & found the plenum drains & sunroof drainage to be ok, no blockage. I also had to replace the transmission module as it was filled with water from the leak! I have had problems with the rotation rate sensor & oxy sensor to the point of the ESP kicking on the anti-lock brakes at 60 mph, and have replace both of these sensors, thinking that was probably related to this leak also. I was vacuuming out the car today and found the floorboard to be wet AGAIN! The dealer just keeps the car for weeks trying to find this leak..
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I have 170,000 miles on this car. This is a 4 cylinder. The seam at the top of the radiator has cracked, causing a small leak. I have confirmed it is not leaking from the cap if you are curious. So it's time to replace the radiator. My question is: is the radiator easy to replace? I have worked on my car before with basic maintenance (oil, transmission, etc) I was thinking it would be straightforward to replace the radiator myself.
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My dad has a 97 Dodge Neon 4 cylinder. The car has been leaking oil, and on Sat the leak grew and was real bad. He took it to the only shop he could find open who put it up on the lift and said the leak was coming from the front of the engine. On monday they did the work ($286) and told my dad it was a seal on the front of the engine behind the flywheel. My dad is old and doesn't hear well and the mechanics english was not real strong and his writing on the recepit is not real clear. As I am worried my dad might have gotten taken, is there a replaceable seal on the front of the engine that could go and cause a leak? They showed my dad the leak as the car was on the lift and running as that was only when the leak occured. I am concerned my dad was taken. He says he drove it around and such and didn't see any leaking when he picked it up and left it running in his drivway for a while upon getting home and no leak. Just wondering?
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I tugged on the little hose on the back pass. side of the engine,(5.4),...
and I could hear the vacuum leak that is apparently causing the erratic idle, and PO171 & PO174 to come up.
I know this hose is hooked to the Charge motion Control Valve on the back of the manifold,..I can't imagine what it does, as it terminates with some kind of plug or check valve??? Haynes say's to remove the entire manifold to get to the CMCV.
I can see it with a mirror,. I am thinking maybe long needle nose from Harbor freight,...bend the tip short,..maybe be able to change it out?????
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I just replaced my injector cups a month or so ago and also injectors with some lower mile injectors. but now 3 weeks later still not getting any pressure at icp. I have dead headed pump got 3k plus but when i block off ether head i get no pressure. i have pulled injectors and checked for orings and they are fine...
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I've got a 2006 F250 5.4l. Recently Ive had an issue when I am driving, usually when the engine is at 3k+ RPMs, where the engine will lose power and the cel with blink. Usually it only takes a few seconds for the blinking to stop and the engine continues as normal. Now, I know that at least one of my exhaust manifolds are leaking.
Could it be that the engine is not receiving enough back pressure and that is causing it to lose power? I had a similar issue last year, basically the same symptoms, and it turned out that I had two cylinders misfiring. I replaced the coil packs and that fixed it. This time there are no codes referring to a cylinder misfire. There is a code for EVAP leak (I think), but I was told it was nothing to worry about.
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Recently bought a 2001. In the process of reading about this engine I discovered there is a some what regular breakdown of head gaskets causing water to leak into cylinders and oil pan, all of which is serious.
Given the vehicle is 12 years old and has 89K miles it appears it is in the age and range of where this leakage can occur. Any knowledgeable engine rebuilders that are familiar with this issue on the 4.2 have any comments???
1. Can this issue be avoided by replacing head gaskets now rather than waiting for future failure???
2. Are there new and improved head gaskets for this motor???
3. Does the problem occur on both heads gaskets?
4. Is that all that needs to be done or are there other seals that need replacement???
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Happened to me twice today, engine wouldn't start, message on MFD was "Parking Brake Fault" and the engine would not start. I read through he owners manual looking for a solution, and the engine finally restarted and I was off on my merry way.
About two hours later, on another errand, this time I started down the road, the engine died, I tried a re-start, got the same "Parking Brake Fault" message and this time the engine would not start. Tow truck is going after the car right now. This leaves me a bit frustrated why a parking brake issue would kill the engine.
2008 Passat Komfort...
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I have a 2000 V6 full motion passat wagon. Was having oil leaks from the engine that caused the car to smoke. Took it to the mechanic, needed to get into the engine block and since it was at 92,000+ miles they said it would be wise to replace timing belt and water pump to save funds later. However 2 months later, my ABS light and Brake warning light came on and continued to do so intermittently. Took it in, they hooked it to their computer couldn't find a thing we played this game for a month. Had to have emissions done, check engine light came on in addition to ABS they did emission test (w/o clearing the codes) the car pasted. Could these problems be attributed to the timing belt replacement. Car was great never had a hitch before they touched the engine.
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Tonite on the drive home it was about 10 F and once my car was up to temp, I put my foot into it, I felt the car hesitate a bit, the CEL flashed a few times and went off. Could the cold temp cause that or is it more likely a bad coil?
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