I have recently noticed that my coolant temperature indication became sluggish. Needle does not make it to "normal" temperature indication and if I turn the heater on it will drop somewhere in between "cold" and "normal" temperatures. Does it affect fuel consumption and so on? I guess maybe coolant temperature sensor is about to die.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2003 Passat 1.8t(B5.5) and I need to change my engine coolant temperature sensor. I have search and found conflicting answers on the forums as far as it location and description. From what I can see it is located near the bottom right hand corner of the radiator(Driver Side). I have removed the sensor and I did see some antifreeze spill out. I examined the sensor and it is blue in color with a rounded top. I called my local auto zone and received a replacement part but it is green and looks a little different.
I understand that the blue one that I removed is no longer produced. My question is is this the right sensor and the right location? All the write ups I can find say that it is located in the back of the engine yet I cannot find one there. Also when I replaced the blue senor with the green one the fan on my car is spinning at high speed(the AC fan) and will not idle. I am wondering if the new sensor is faulty/ incorrect or if i simply replaced the wrong sensor.
Here is a link to the replacement part I used : [URL] .....
I have a '99 1.8T Passat. The coolant temperature gauge normally reaches operating temperature of 190 degrees within about 5 minutes and stays there. For some reason, after reaching 190, it sometimes drops by 20-30 degrees and is running cooler than normal. Once time it dropped down, then came back up again, while driving a steady 65 mph. The coolant level is full and nothing else has changed.
I guess there are a few possibilities: a thermostat stuck open too far, a failing temperature sensor, bad gauge, or loose connection at the sensor. The car has 145K miles and the thermostat and water pump were replaced at about 100K miles. What is going on? If it runs a little too cool, is that a big deal? How would I diagnose it? Where is the temperature sensor?
My '04 Passat 4Motion (station wagon) engine coolant temperature gauge, fuel gauge, and outside temperature display all stopped working in the same time. Interestingly enough, car has 32K miles and just ran out of manufacturer warranty 2 months ago.
What could be happening? Should I be checking fuse box or this may be related to some more serious failure?
When taking our 2007 RX out of say a 72 degree garage to say a 90 degree day, it takes at least 10 minutes for the outside temp gauge to finally creep up to the ambient temperature. The gauge feels very sluggish at all other times.
View 14 RepliesMy 2007 5.7 Toyota Tundra has developed a quirky habit when the outside temperature is lower than 50 degrees, the transmission fails to change gear ratios properly until such time as the truck warms up. In other words, for the first several blocks leaving home in the morning, the Tachometer reads 2,000 at 30 MPH, but when it warms up, the tach will drop to 1200 to 1500 at 30 MPH. The truck started doing this around 40,000 miles. It now has 53,000 miles and my warranty will expire at 60,000 miles. The dealer tells me that the failure of the transmission shifting properly when cold is NOT an indication that my transmission might be in the need of repair or adjustment.
View 6 Replies2004 Passat 1.8t. recently been having this problem where when I turn at 30-40 mph he gets a chime, followed by a "stop" indication on the dash along with "brake failure" displayed.. also the brake symbol comes into view as well... I haven't connected any scanners to it to see what's going on, but I'm not sure if it will show anything.. The CEL isn't on either..
View 2 RepliesSince 2-3 weeks ago indicators show about 105 C degree of oil temp and the same 105 C grade on colant temperature gauge. Isn't it too high? I do not remember values indicated month ago but I suppose were lower (about 90 C Degrees). When I stop on light it comes down to about 100 and little below, but running on 140km/h on motorway - 105 C. On uphill I observed even 115 C degree on oil and coolant. It is too high in my opinion. Could it be cause by sharp winter (-20 to -10 C degree) in Europe? I'm not sure indications will go to normal (~90 C) on spring and summer! My engine is V8...
View 7 RepliesWhere the Coolant Temperature Sensor is located in the R32? Need to replace it. I searched but luck so far.
View 23 RepliesWhat is the location of the Coolant Temperature Sensor? I search but I couldn't find a picture or diagram for our car.
View 2 RepliesI have an '07 Ford Fusion with 94,000 miles. The check engine light came on a couple of days ago, so I took it to a shop to have them pull the codes on it. The code that came up said the coolant was not reaching the proper temperature, and the mechanic told me the thermostat should probably be replaced.Two questions:
1. Should I go ahead and get it done, or wait and see if the check engine light comes back on? I usually only drive the vehicle about 10 miles a day, and it's all city driving.
2. What kind of cost should I be looking at? He said it would be a system flush, replacing the coolant and thermostat (which they would get from a dealer).
My 2001 Hyundai Santa Fe V6 is giving out a P0118 code, and the "freeze-frame" data reports a -40F for the coolant temperature. That doesn't make sense so perhaps the sensor is faulty or perhaps the sensor connector is loose?
I'd like to take a look at the coolant temperature sensor but I cannot find it. I have scoured hmaservice, hyunda-forums but all the various pics are still not clear enough for me to actually find the sensor. I have seen all the online pics from Hyundai but I can't get my head around exactly where the sensor is - the pics are either too zoomed in or so many things have been disconnected for the purposes of taking the picture I can't get my bearings.
I seem to recall my 4.2l oil and coolant temperature staying at a consistent 200 degrees, but now my oil temp seems to hover at or slightly above 180 while coolant remains at 200.
A 5 mile high speed uphill run brought the oil temp to about 190 degrees, but it soon settled to 180 once I slowed to 80mph.
So ambient temp is about 15 degrees Fahrenheit; however, that really shouldn't make a difference with a water cooled/thermostat engine, correct?
My main concern is that lower oil operating temperatures wont allow condensation to boil off.
As a Prius driver, I have driven my 2012 Prius more than 110,000 miles. I love the car and have a suggestion on improvement - Create new software to allow the driver to monitor engine coolant temperature and RPM from either the dash display or touch screen display.
I like knowing if my car engine is up to temperature before punching it on the freeway ramp or about to overheat before an idiot light goes on.
Last night I went to drive my car and my coolant light went on. I checked the overflow and it was very low. There was barely any left in the overflow. I thought this was strange because I had just checked the coolant a couple days ago. The coolant that was in my car was an orange color (after searching I realized that I think this is g12 which I was unfamiliar with). Before searching I added Prestone 50/50 pre diluted green coolant. The bottle said it was mixable with any type of coolant color or kind. After reading more threads I'm seeing that I think the g12 just contracted with the cold weather and I should of just left everything. I have barely driven the car since adding the prestone. Am I doing harm mixing in the prestone? If so, How can I fix this?
On another note, With the cold weather my temp gauge seems to be acting a little funny. Once the car is up to operating temperature the gauge will then drop around 40-50 degrees. It will then stay like this while im driving, but then will go back to normal once the car is stopped and running.
It has been documented that the computer will let the ICE coolant cool to a lower temperature before mandating it to fire up again to maintain that lower limit.
Why isn't this done in other modes? Is this compromising anything when it comes to emission or engine protection? Since full power is available in ECO mode, one can force the ICE to drive with full output, even when it is a little cold.
Where exactly is the temperature sender/sensor is located?
View 3 RepliesI have replaced radiator and thermostat, awhile back.. I checked and there is antifreeze in the radiator and the reservoir. I don't drive it unless i really have to. and not to far,lots more work to do on it. But the coolant light started blinking the other day. Temperature gauge inside is ok. What could this be? what should I do? Still haven't got the blower working, heater / ac / defrost.
View 5 RepliesJust bought a 2002 Prius for my daughter at an auction and the car has been driving fine the last few days even though the hybrid warning light has been on and off. Found no fault code with OBDII. Found out later from Toyota service history the cause of the hybrid warning light was a leaked hybrid battery. The previous owner disposed the car off at the auction before the problem was fixed.
I was driving today and the coolant high temperature came on and I can't rev/drive. Stopped engine and re-start after a while and coolant high temperature warning light gone. Drove a short distance and coolant high temperature warning light came back on. Used a OBDII and found no fault code. Radiator hose by the radiator cap is cold but hose at the top right side of radiator by the hybrid system is hot. Opened radiator cap and it is full of coolant.
The car has been serviced on 12/26/2012 before it went to the auction. Can air pocket trapped in the radiator cause this coolant high temperature warning light and can't rev/drive problem. Also today is the first time we didn't use the heater. We used the heater to defog the windscreen and heater work.
2005 Prius...113k miles...master warning light & a coolant temperature briefly light up several times while commuting. The inverter coolant tank stays full, but the motor coolant is empty every day after a 30 mile commute. I fill it up & 30 miles later it is empty. There are no puddles or evidence of a leak while parked in the garage.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 Dodge Grand Caravan. This week I encountered the following:
First Symptoms:
1.Red Battery Light
2.Check Engine Light
Action Taken: Since car is 9 years old with original battery, I replaced battery. Boy, that battery was really good.
Symptoms observed after battery installed
1.Red Battery Light
2.Check Engine Light
3.0 reading on Engine Temperature
Action Taken: Tightened battery cable nut and red battery light went out. Took car to local mechanic who found and reported –“Code 1478/Battery Temp Sensor, tested/was overvoltage allowed (4.9 for more than 3.2 seconds). Sensor located internally in PCM. PCM will have to be replaced.”
Symptoms observed on drive home: Drove car home. On the way, the battery and check engine lights went out. Engine coolant temperature came up ¼ scale. Cruise control would not work. Later, during drive, the battery and check engine lights came back on, cruise control continued to be nonfunctional, engine temperature gauge went to 0.
Action Taken: Took car to local dealer who replaced the PCM at a cost of $605 for the part and $135 for labor.
Subsequent Observations: After 45 miles on the drive home the check engine light came on.The car was driven 2 days later. Battery light came on for about 5 miles then went off; check engine light remained on for the entire drive (~40 miles); cruise control remained nonfunctional and coolant temperature indicator read about ¼ scale.
What is/are the likely cause(s) of all these problems and what can I do? We've had very few problems with this car to this point, but these issues are really getting expensive fast.