Well my wifes Passat blew a coolant hose and shut down. Now when you try and start it it makes a terrible clanking sound. I'm about to start tearing it apart today. She has the v6 30v...
View 5 RepliesCheck out the pics, noticed car was overheating, let it cool down, got it home and found this broken hose (it was a crack in the hose before I broke it all the way taking the throttle body off). What is the part number for this hose and what else I should be looking for now that the car overheated?
View 18 RepliesMy 2.4L engine is making a clanking noise while running. When I checked the oil level today, it was low by about 1.5 quarts. There's no check engine light.
Car has 74K miles now. I purchased the car two years ago with 35K miles. I have always performed regular maintenance myself. The car had its oil control valve replaced at 55K miles.
VIDEO : 2.4L Clanking Noise
So I noticed a few months ago that a clanking noise came from the front of my GLI when I hit bumps. This noise went away if I had my foot on the brake, so enough vortex searches came up with loose caliper carrier pins.
I ordered the brake stiffening kit last month, but have yet to install it. Now just the other day, I heard this crazy noise come from my brakes entering my garage. It was like a loud 'click" when I engaged the brakes hard enough and I could repeat it many times. I know, I am silly for not getting the kit installed sooner, but I want to make sure that this 'click' is likely related to the carrier pins before I go taking the brakes apart in my garage.
I only ask because my car has 95k on it and is possibly on original suspension, so bushings and mounts might be starting to go.
I have a 2014 Explorer Sport and I'm having problems with cranking. On really hot days when its 90+ degrees, my explorer will make a clacking noise when cranking. When its 100 degrees, the first try on cranking will give the same noise, turn over and not start. On the second try, it will start. The odd thing is, after it does crank, it will crank normally when I try it again. After waiting a few hours, the same issue will occur again. I'm thinking this may be a starter issue. I will take a video and post later.
View 6 RepliesHow to identify this 'leaking' coolant hose? (cooler hose?), I took a picture with my cell ... It shows a stainless steel coolant line with calcified Dried/heater coolant residue on the outside, and I noticed it was leaking coolant (using a periscope mirror )...
View 3 RepliesI think that it is coming from the hose that connects right to the reservoir. I have wiped it clean a few times and it always seems to be seeping from that area under the hose where it connects to the bung. I replaced the OE hose clamp with a new one and put some electrical tape around the hose but it still leaks. It does make a slight hissing sound from the area as well when I pop the hood after a long ride, but only lets off a few drips. My guess is that I may have to replace that entire hose but that looks involved as it is attached to several others.
View 4 RepliesI have a used 2005 Avalon with 65,000 miles. I posted earlier that, after a sudden VVTi oil hose leak, my engine was making a loud ticking noise at certain RPM's and needs engine work to repair the lifters. So far Toyota was only willing to do the recall and not pay for the engine damage because it is 5,000 miles out of warranty.
A customer relations representative at a Toyota dealer provided me with a vehicle history, and I was shocked to see that the VVTi hose had already been replaced at 33,000 miles after the same type of oil leak.
My battle with Toyota is still ongoing and, quite frankly, I expect to lose. I am going to get the car repaired and get rid of it (at considerable loss --I cannot in good conscious sell it or trade it knowing it has engine damage without disclosing it, though my dealer had no problem with it). I will never buy another Toyota after buying 5 new ones in the last decade.
I am posting as a warning -- even though you may have had the oil line recall done, do not assume that you have nothing to worry about. If they replaced a rubber hose with another rubber hose as they did in mine, you have a ticking time bomb.
I was driving in traffic when the "Check Coolant" message appeared in the MFD. I looked at the coolant temp and it was approaching 280F. I immediately pulled into a shopping mall parking lot and stopped the engine. I popped the hood and saw that the coolant resevoir was full. There was no coolant on the ground but there was a coolant odor. I called for a tow and had the car towed to the VW shop within a mile of where I broke down.
When the tech got to my car, they said that the "computer" pointed them to the fans and their relays/modules (2). They placed an order for these parts. Once they arrived, they installed the new fans and relays but they couldn't get the fans to operate. They subsequently removed these new parts and replaced them with the old parts. They then opened a dialog with VW Tech-Line.
Somehow they discovered that the fuse to the fan modules was blown. This was replaced and the fans began to work. After running a "system scan" it reported a bad ignition switch. This is now on order. My car has been in the shop for almost 2 weeks because of this. What's going on here? Was the fuse the culprit all along? If so would the computer have pointed them to the fuse or would they have had to find it themselves?
I have a 2002 V6 Passat Wagon. I am hemorrhaging coolant out of my lower coolant pipe. I can reach it put my finger in a feel the coolant coming out as fast as I pour it in. I can't see any way to get at the pipe from the top and I can't see the hose that should be attached there from the top. I assume this means the front end will need to be jacked up and go at it from the bottom. Also note the intake and return from the heater in my car is mexi fixed and looped together (no heat).
View 2 RepliesSo it only happens when I start the car, I'm thinking its the starting needing to be replace. The car starts everytime, Just when it cranks it makes a the noise, but fires up right away. The noise is gone once the car is started.
View 3 RepliesAbout three days ago, while taking the dogs out, I go through the garage, which is not heated, and I notice the Prius is making a noise. It sounds like an electric motor running but I can not figure out where exactly the noise is coming from. It had been raining, and the car was pulled in the garage wet. About 5 minutes ago, I heard the same noise while getting the dogs in from outside. Both times I came back in the house, grabbed a FOB, and hopped in the car and put it in ready mode. I immediately shut it off, and the noise was gone. It reminds me of the sound that the car makes when you open the drivers door, which I think is the master cylinder pressurizing. It is about 7 degrees F here, but I am sure it is a little warmer in the garage.
The car has about 33K miles on it. It gets driven everyday. Today, I got home about 4:30, and this just occurred at around 9:45. Whatever is causing the noise, I am sure will put a drain on the battery, as it definitely is an electrical motor of some sort running, which will take some power. I would hope that the power was coming from the 12 volt battery, and not the traction battery, as it usually disconnects a minute or so after the car is shut off. The car was definitely shut down when I drove it in, and every light was off on the dash when I got in to power it back up, except for the flashing lock light on the right side of the display. The wind chill here tonight is supposed to go to -25 degrees F. I am concerned about the car starting if it pulls too much power from the 12 volt battery.
The wife was out in the Fe yesterday(2001 2.7 V6 Auto AWD) running at highway speed 80kmh before pulling up to a junction, when she pulled off again then the car came to a halt and lost all drive with engine still running ok. Luckily wife has the sense to switch it off. Tow trucked it home after she saw a puddle of tranny fluid under the car.
Any way it turned out one of the transmission hoses running from the cooler (right hand side hose that runs under radiator) managed to blow off the metal pipe.. don't know how, oem clamp was on and hose didn't split just came off! Needless to say this resulted in the tranny fluid quickly being emptied all over the engine bay and no gears.
So ive re attached the hose with new clamp and have drained what fluid was left in the pan..about 1 liter, and need to fill it up now and find out if it still works ok.
Now the manual says it needs 8.9ltr for a full fill but the question is will it of emptied the torque convertor as well so its completely empty or will it just of blown out the contents of the pan before stopping then just needing half fill.
What could cause a hose to blow off, they don't run at that high pressure normally, average hose pressure is normally 35-55psi from what I can find out so shouldn't blow off that easy should it.
So, I have a 1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee (Orvis edition) with about 270,000 miles. It still runs great and has been really useful in the snow this winter. A couple days ago the power steering pressure hose blew. My mechanic wants to replace it, but I can get a replacement hose locally. Is there any reason I shouldn't just do this myself. Do I need to worry about the fluid sprayed around the engine? The serpentine belt is only a few months old and squeaked only a little on the three mile drive to get it home.
View 8 RepliesI went to start my car this morning and it seemed my battery was dead. I then had my car jumped. It started fine, but the trip meter was reset. As i was driving it seemed fine. I then came to a stop at a traffic light and the engine started failing. I parked and the guages started going nuts, the engine was making a high whining noise, it sputtered a bit and then shut off. What is going on? Is it something i can do myself having little experience working on cars?
View 1 RepliesThis weekend while towing a light load I noticed my FWT and EOT starting to climb rapidly, EOT reached 260 FWT I think about 240. I exited the interstate to find I had a busted radiator hose. I replaced the hose and filled the system with distilled water, but didn't add antifreeze at this time. The system wasn't completely empty.
I noticed once back on the road my EOT seemed to be higher than normal but FWT seemed to be normal. Could the lack of antifreeze cause a greater delta between FWT and EOT? I have seen articles which state do not use Ford Premium Gold Coolant, but to use CAT EL-1 coolant instead. Which should I use?
I blew some hose in my engine and radiator fluid was spraying out of it like crazy. It's on a 1999 f150 4.6 on the passenger side near the rear of the engine but about even with the top of the engine...
View 1 RepliesI remember that my 2005 Prius had a short whirring noise when I shut it off, as some coolant fluid was moved around.
But my 2010 Prius has been pretty quiet at shut-down, until recently (has it always been there, or now that it's cold weather?) I noticed there's a very faint whirring noise coming from the engine compartment at shut-down. It lasts for quite a while -- almost a minute, then stops.
I'm getting a noise that sounds like "woooooooooo" from the right front of the engine compartment when the outside temp gets below about 20F and I just start the car. The colder it gets, the longer the noise lasts.
I suspect it's the pump that's part of the CHS. Just a very wild guess. The noise goes away when the car starts to warm up. No drive ability problems.
I stop to put gas in the car, put the hose in and set the "latch" so I don't have to hold the hose (which I have done for years) What has started to happen is the hose does not shut off and gas spills out. I have tried holding the hose with the latch in place, and then readjusting the height/level that the hose is at,, it still spills over... since this is something new, what is going on !
View 3 RepliesThis has happened to me a couple of times...last night most recently. My gas gauge was flashing so I stopped for gas.
I was only able to pump 3-4 gallons, before the hose shut off and every attempt to continue filling after that would only go a second or two before the hose shut off again.
I was careful I though to allow fumes not to build up since I imagined that might be why the hose was shutting off.
I drove for a few miles and later that night stopped again at the same station and was able to fill up as expected.