Passat (B5) :: Consistent Squeal From Left Rear Brake Setup
Mar 10, 2008
First of all, except for my current problem, I love the combination of Brembo disks and PBR/Axxis Ultimate pads on the front and rear of my 1998 Passat 1.8t Sedan for daily driving. The feel is great, less dust than OEM or others, consistent performance in wet driving (much much better than Mintex Redbox pads). Initially had a bit of squeal on the pads after about 300 miles, but then after some heartbreaking that went away and I have had over 3000 miles of squeal-free and consistent braking..... at least until more recently.
In January (~1000 miles ago), I switched from my summer wheels to my winter wheels. Ever since then, I have had an almost consistent squeal from my left rear brake setup. It occurs at the latter half of pressuring when the car has slowed. I've tried really hard freeway braking which works (for a few more breaking events). I've tried resetting the bolts on that wheel (I always use a torque wrench). That only solves it for a couple of braking events.
I have even removed the wheel, rotated the rotor on the hub and reset the wheel. Still no luck. The brake and rotor surface look in great condition, and there is definitely no play in the hub nor is their any warping evident - no pulsation at all. Everything is torqued properly. I have been able to get rid of the squeal for about 10 breaking events by riding the parking brake while at higher speeds for more than 5 secs. Sometimes with really hard braking it goes away for a short while. Then, in either case, it comes back.
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I have a slight squeal from the left rear brake when in reverse. Doesn't do it all time and never when roads are wet. I disassembled the caliper and all looks good. I replaced the pads about a year ago and the noise just recently started, so its hard to blame that. I did not use the brake anti-noise lube......but I never have.
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So I bought mkv r32 FK streetline coilovers, got them installed and when I went to adjust them myself I ran into an issue. The rear springs are upside down, making the threads on the bottom so I can't even get the flat tool in there without dropping the control arm. The tech working on it told me that is how the kit is designed.
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Overall my B6 has very little brake dust. But I constantly found my rear left wheel has more brake dust than the other 3 wheels, though it's still less than the cleanest wheel on my friends saab 93. Currently the car has 4,000 miles on it. I'm wondering if the brake pad would correct itself over time? Anyway, I'm going to have it checked in 5,000 mile service, just like to know if this is a common problem.
Pic for clicks .....
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The scene: 22k miles on a 2010 Prius II. Loud rear brake squeal, worse when backing, but still present going forward at low speeds. Does not seem to go away even when warmed up. I put it off having it checked at first because a little rust on the pads is very common in my climate.
At the dealer, the tech tells me I've worn completely through the pads and scored the rotor! At 22k! On a Prius, for crying out loud! It's not my driving, either, because that's the first I've ever had anything done to rear brakes on any car before 75k. The front brakes needed no attention at all. I challenged the service tech with these points; he even took me back into the shop to show me. The caliper pistons were moving freely, for what it's worth. Ultimately he just shrugged me off.
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I have the exact same problem as described in the below video.
I have worked on brake pads once. I just haven't had the guts to try it on my Hybrid yet.
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I want to add an in-line filter to my power steering set up. I'm replacing my pump, lines and steering box and I want to add a magnetic filter that will be easy to clean and change the filter without dumping fluid every time I want to replace the filter. I'm thinking of adding the Magnafine pro filter with aluminum billet housing. I know the plastic magnafine filters have been used alot and the knock off Raymundo's as well. Has anyone used this filter before and where did you mount it? I'm thinking of placing it between the PS reservoir and the air filter with fuel fittings and a fuel shutoff to close while swapping out the filter. Is there a better filter set up out there that I should consider?
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My rear brakes started to squeal at 15k miles, only in reverse. Needless to say, the squealing got worse and now it sounds like metal on metal. It's at 21k now. I was suprised that the brakes would go out that soon, especially the rears first! I called the dealer and they said, "wow, I'm surprised they lasted that long, they usually only last about 15k". What about the rears going out first, "oh, VW's are designed that way, the rears go first, the pad material is really soft".
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My wife is having issues with her Corolla. Her car has about 50k miles and we got new tires and at the same time an alignment. After the alignment her car has been having the steering issue a lot of others have been having. It steers itself/drifts left and right without moving the wheel. We brought it into the dealership and they say they performed the TSB however the issue is still there.
When we spoke with the service department on the phone earlier that day they did not have the power steering computer in stock and it would be a couple days. We dropped it off and the same day they said they were able to replace the computer. Not sure if I trust they actually did the job since the computer was supposed to be out of stock and the car is out of warranty but they did not charge for anything. Also, we don't notice any improvement. Is there a way I could tell if the computer was replaced? I'm hoping it has a date on it, but I don't know where the computer is, just that the dash needs to be taken apart.
Does this TSB always work, or have others still had steering issues even after replacing the computer? Since this all started after the alignment it seems to me that if we put the alignment back the problem would go away. Is there an alignment setup that would solve this issue?
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I want to set up a sub and amp in my 2003 passat glx, but don't know exactly what to get and how it would hook up to my stock head unit (if that's possible...) would i need to replace that too? the car also has an amp that is also stock, but im pretty sure it wouldn't power a sub as well.
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I'm ordering the parts to add fog lights onto my TDI SE and want to increase the light output so that I can drive with the Audi style LED headlights in the parking light setting with the fogs on and still see where I'm going. I have a few questions regarding the setup:
1) Since it is an aftermarket setup on my SE do I need to get a CANBUS HID kit or a regular one?
2) I know there is an increase in light output when installing regular H11s in place of a H8 bulbs. Is it the same with an HID setup?
3) I'd like to find an affordable 5000k HID kit with decent quality.
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I recently leased a 2013 Passat SE and I desperately need to eliminate the wheel gap. I know that SoloWerks has some coilovers available or our car, but I have a friend that has a CC on KSports and I absolutely love the way they ride. Ksport does not make a coilover for our cars, but I have heard that the CC suspension is the same. Looking for CC coilover setup on these cars yet? I'll be sure to post pictures once I get my wheels and eliminate the wheel gap!
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On my father in law's 06 Saturn Vue, we replaced rear shoes, springs and drums. His left rear shoes are now locking up usually after the car sits for about an hour or two. It happens when he backs up and then puts it in drive. He gets about 30 feet and the brakes lock up, and upon test driving it i cannot recreate the condition. I do notice a chatter like war pattern on the shoes, and wheel cylinders are not leaking, although upon braking with the drums off, the wheel cylinders do appear to be a little weak. could this cause the lock up, or could it be a defective drum? I've thought about swapping left and right drums.
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I have a 2003 hyundai elantra gt. All the lights and bulbs work, except for the rear left brake light. I've replaced it twice now, and used a bulb I know was good, so the problem is not a bulb. I checked the fuse, and the fuse is ok as well. When I measure at the bulb socket with an ammeter I get around 20 mA which I assume is too small and I assume there is a loose wire somewhere.
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Sometimes the LR brake skids MUCH too easily under just moderate braking. Other times it works normally. It's unpredictable. I may drive it for weeks with no trouble and then have a few days in a row when the problem comes back.
It usually happens when the truck has been sitting for a while (several hours or days). sometimes it goes away after driving for 10-15 mins, other times it sticks around a few days then stops.
I had Les Schwab inspect the brakes several months ago and they could find nothing wrong. It's been happening for a year or more.
It's a '99 Ranger, 2 wheel drive with ABS.
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I noticed today (smell burning brakes) that my left rear brake is sticking on my 1999 2WD F250. I hear that this is a common problem? Is it usually a defective Caliper or emergency brake Issue? I had my rear brakes done 50k ago with rotors and rebuilt calipers (first set went 130k).... I don't think it was a total clamp down infrared temperature was 275 degrees on sticking brake and 75 degrees on the ones that were not sticking.
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I have no left rear signal or brake lights. The right side works fine and both left/right tail lights work fine, just no left brake or signal. I checked for broken wires and can not find anything. 1992 Ford E50 7.5L.
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Running my fog light setup and stereo make me what to get something like this with all of the wires in the battery.
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I replaced my front pads/rotors after the dealership suggested same. I went with NAPA Ultra Premium rotors and Hawk LTS pads. I applied the high temp brake grease to the pad ends and shims, but forgot to install the two "V" spring clamps on the left front pads. The sliding caliper bolts seemed free, but I didn't clean them (I should have and will do so if I tear the brakes back down). I bedded the pads by doing 30mph to almost stops 3 or 4 times then 45mph to almost stops 1 or 2 times...not sure if that was enough based on reading other posts on how to bed.
I now have a slight squeal and not sure if it's due to a lack of those V clamps or if I didn't bed the pads correctly or other. Thoughts? Can the pads be "re-bed" if I boofed it up the first time? I'm about to do the rear rotors/pads and want to do it right.
The X stops OK, but I thought it would be more aggressive than it is with the pad/rotor combo I installed. I tow a ~8,000# TT and want good stopping power.
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Just noticed this morning that when I move slowly there is a noise consistent with the cars movement in the rear right side of the car. What could be causing this back there? Almost sound like if the car was moving while the brake was engaged.
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I just installed the lights and found that only the outside left light worked with the brake depressed, the outside left inside left and inside right worked with the light switch in the on position. Also both blinkers work.
I switched my byte 18 to 04 already and am not (as of now) using my euro light switch (I didn't think this would be it but I'm at a complete loss) ...
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