Passat (B5) :: Comparison Of 2005 Golf TDI And 2001 GLX
Jun 13, 2013
We have both a 2005 Golf TDI (150,000 miles) and a 2001 Passat GLX (100,000 miles). We need to reduce our number of vehicles, so we need to sell one of them. The question is, which one?
The Passat is a rare manual transmission version and is in immaculate condition. The Golf TDI is a reliable and efficient workhorse. (I no longer have the 35-mile commute that caused me to buy the Golf in the first place.) We love both vehicles and can't decide which to sell. Both vehicles are garaged.
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Since i bagged my car and i didn't bought the swaybar end links to fix it it to my air struts, when i got it installed the swaybar got removed.
Now as my swaybar is off i might upgrade, my question is, Is an h&r front swaybar much better than an OEM one, and if yes should i pick a 26 or 28 mm o e (what's the difference, pipe size?)
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In your opinion what looks better on a R. Classix or Denvers? Need to decide what i am going to run for winter.
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I have a 2008 GTI, black, DSG - I love this car, best I have ever had. It has worked flawlessly - never in the shop for anything other than routine maintenance. Anyway, my lease will be up at the end of the year and was considering either buying out the lease or getting a new 2011 model. What's new and "improved" in the 2011 model?
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My husband and I are considering getting a small SUV. We've narrowed our choices down to the 2012 Tiguan SE 4-motion or the CR-V EX-L AWD. I'm working on a pro/con analysis between the two. I've looked through some threads here, and would like to get some updated opinions from current owners.
Why would you pick the Tiguan over the CRV or vice versa?
I'm a long-time VW driver, so I'm naturally leaning towards the Tiguan. The Honda is slightly less expensive to start, and gets slightly better gas mileage, potentially translating into a few $1000s in savings over the VW during the life of the car. We have no real experience with Hondas. My mother has an Accord and decided she hates it after about 1 year. I do think it's mainly because she liked her Subaru and only traded it in because my father hated it.
Some more background info:
This would become my husband's daily driver and his Wrangler would become our third/weekend car. We're in no rush, and may decide to just keep the status quo. My husband commutes 40 miles per day, so better gas mileage is a plus. We have a Lab who will ride in the car pretty often, but we will buy a waterproof seat cover for the backseat of whichever car we get.
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Is there any difference between the 2010 v6 and the 2011- 2016 V6's ? Reliable? Highway gas mileage? Maintenance issues to look for? Is there anything you know that would keep me from buying this vehicle?
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I bought a new 2008 ISF back in the day and acquired a 2009 M5 with 6,000 miles late last year.
My ISF has headers, exhaust and throttle control which absolutely changed the car from a Lexus to a contender, consider the mods with the following comparison. I enjoy my M5 a lot, it is my out of town car- drives great at 180, corners well, solid, roomy (being from Vegas I can fit 4 bodies in the trunk)..I can go on about all the positives.
However, the F is faster with the mods, better ergonomics, and has fewer repair issues. It feels like a go cart. It pulls the 5 until it hits the limiter. As there were only 500 or so produced each year.
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This chart compares what my C's computer calculated for MPG to simple arithmetic. Seeing consistent optimistic numbers from your computer like I am?
The average error is -2.7 mpg and the STD is 0.85 mpg. So the error is fairly consistent. I also have shown the gallons purchased, but there is no correlation to mpg error.
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So the LX and Landcruiser have shared platforms over the year but I've always wondered why Toyota / Lexus never released a stretched version of the trucks like an Escalade ESV or Yukon XL, etc? I know the trucks currently seat 8 people but the 3rd row is a little tight except for little kids. Also, if you have the 3rd row up, then the trunk space is all but gone. For example, with the Escalade ESV, with the extended version, the seats in the 3rd row are laid out just a little better than the 3rd row in the shorter truck version so it's a little more comfortable. And the trunk space in the stretched version is way more than the normal version.
Of course, the Escalade is not sold in other countries where it's seriously taken off road. I know that it's mainly a US vehicle that roams the crazy parking lots of many upscale malls whereas the Land Cruiser / LX570 is primarily the same in the US but it's also sold in many foreign countries where it really is used off-road and having a stretched version is not really the best for off-road maneuvering. Even so, I think Toyota/Lexus would sell more of these vehicles if they did develop a stretched version. Maybe call it a Landcruiser XL or LX570 XL..
Actually if Toyota made a stretched version, I'd say calling it a Land Bruiser would be more appropriate. I certainly would love an 8 seater LX 570 with the larger trunk area and possible better sitting space with the stretched version. Couple this with the Lexus quality and reliability and Lexus would give the Escalade ESV some decent competition.
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How do I turn the "fuel consumption comparison" off? I want to see only the quantity and price off the gasoline I have consumed.
There isn't a "disable" feature, so I am guessing I set it to 0 mpg?
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So I recently got a 9006 8000k HID Kit off of E - bay and I'm planning on installing it in place of the stock HIDs. However , I just realized that the stock HIDs have a D4S ballast and connector which do not fit the 9006 HID kit that I just got.
So should I remove the old D4S ballast and put in the new kit, or buy D4S bulbs that fit the stock ballast ? Also, the driver side headlight is flickering and goes out at times so I don't know if the stock ballast is acting up.
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I just gonna buy a new car. How this two car compared? I have test two cars, and like ford's handling, while Prius drives like a toy. Also ford seems safer than Toyota.
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2011 Honda CRZ emission test result from EPA is out. I am providing comparison graphs with other hybrids. Enjoy!
Non-Methane Organic Gases
Carbon Monoxide
Nitrogen Oxide
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I just bought a 2001 Passat Wagon GLX, and was wondering what differences there are between the 01 and the 01.5? I know the headlight change is one.
Does mine have things like auto winshield wipers and all that?
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My 2005 Elantra has 240,000 miles on it and uses about a quart of oil per 1000 miles. It does not smoke, nor are there any oil leaks. I've owned this car since new and I've done all the maintenance work (oil changes, timing belts, CV boots, etc).
The oil consumption started at about 120,000 miles and has gotten progressively worse. Outside of the oil consumption, this car is in great shape. It starts and runs very well. My kids drive it about 1000 miles per week between work, college, and other events.
If it didn't burn so much oil, I'd go ahead and replace the clutch, struts, and shocks but can't validate the time and expense given the oil issue.
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My sons 2005 Santa Fe alarm goes off whenever it feels like it. Is there a solution to fix it or can the siren be disconnected without pulling the fuse? Could it be a hood switch problem?
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Just bought myself a nice low mileage 05 Elantra. Every time I start the car with the temp control at max & the direction knob turned to windshield or windshield/cabin, the green a/c light glows & my compressor starts. I have to click the button off every time. The car came with no owners manual.
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I have a 2005 Elantra. A few weeks I parked it after returning from work. The next morning not even the remote would work and the power locks would also not work. I didn't leave the light on either. I tried to jump it, and nothing. I bought a brand new battery, still nothing, not even the headlights or power locks will work. Is there something I can check to fix myself before having it towed to a mechanic?
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Since I bought my car and driven it I noticed the acceleration noise and feel more and more. At slow speeds and rpms the engine sounds like its struggling to accelerate. It isn't smooth like a constant climb. Its a winding up acceleration. From a stop you can feel it shake the car up to 3000 rpms then it goes away. It idles somewhat rough and you can feel it throughout the cabin and the exhaust sounds putter in at idles instead of a steady drone. I suspect a fuel filter as of I have changed my oil, spark plugs, and air filter. Could it be a timing belt or something like that? It also has a very very small leak around the valve cover gasket bolts.
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I know to some this seems like a little thing, but over time is it is really driving me nutz. Especially in the winter when I get home in the dark and I need to retrieve things from the trunk and I can't see a thing.
I also drive my daughter's friends around back and forth to practice and I can't even tell you how many things get left in my car.
Any easy way to install something aftermarket that doesn't take a degree in electronics?
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I am the original owner of a 2005 Elantra. It has 89,000 miles on it. I go to start it and the power comes on but it will not crank. It will start if I jump it though. I checked the battery. It is a year old and fine. We cleaned all of the leads and cable leads to the battery. It was fine for a couple of days, but having a problem again this morning. The cold may be a factor.
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