After changing 3coilpacks on my Passat 04 1.8T soo far finally the last one went out. The codes I got are P0301 (which is misfire cylinder1) and the other code is p0420 which I do not know what it is... I think it might do something with cat or something.
View 1 Replies2004 TB EXT, 4.2L I-6. Steady misfire on a single cyl. Changed spark plugs, (installed A/C Delco Iridium, 41-103). Fired it up, and miss was gone for about 20 seconds, then came back. Scan turned up P0301, Cyl #1 misfire. I picked up a coil pack, but before installing it, is there any diagnostic tests I can do on the connector, or any tester for coil packs? Not wanting to install this $80 part, (rendering it non-returnable), and have it make no difference. Hoping to at least be able to check for proper voltage supply and trigger signal at coil connector, if possible. Also, any checks I can perform on the injector harness? Thinking it may be one or the other. Or should I swap coil pack to another cylinder, and see if problem moves with it?
View 2 RepliesI am trying to get my spark plugs changed and having a hard time trying to figure out how to get the coil packs out. I have done some research already but couldn't really find anything solid for the GS 460 specifically. Many people had useful information on the other GS models (300,350 etc) but since the 460 is not as common, I couldn't really find anything.
I read the guys use pry bars to wedge the motor a little to have extra clearance to pull the coil packs out but it seems the LS has a little more room to work with. On the GS 460 however, it is pretty tight and even using a pry bar I really do not believe the coil pack will have room to be remove completely.
Having issues with some or all of the coil packs going bad? Because it looks like all 6 coil packs on my R32 went bad...
Brief history, my car stopped turning on about a month ago, it was working just fine when one day when going to lunch it stopped wanting to turn on, I had to crank it about 3 or 4 times and it turned on, I went to lunch then got back but when I left for the day (at work) I once again didn't want to turn on and that's about it. I had to tow it home and a couple of friends and I began trying to figure out why we tested the fuel system and electrical. We could get no little to no spark on all 6 coil packs. Ran vag com and nothing would come up, I tested the Crank position sensor and it tested fine but broke the connector so I replaced it with a new CPS. Still, would not start.
So after a couple of days, we decided to try 6 known good coil packs and it fired right up. So yeah I've never heard of all six coil packs going bad at the same time, so what could cause that ? btw soon after the car started, about the 3rd time turning it off and on the starter decided to stop working, I'm thinking it was because of all the times I tried to start it, it was allotted. : thumb down
I've decided to jump on the DIY bandwagon a do my own 60K service. I've found the great write-ups on the oil changes, and even the spark plug removal; but need a detailed explanation or even pictures of how to remove the coil packs to the plugs; I don't want to break anything.
View 3 RepliesI've had my 24V off the road for about a year now working on it. I did some wire tucking and what not, nothing major. Now when I go to start it, it won't start and it will make a popping noise from a coil pack and it starts to smoke.
View 6 RepliesI have an 02 accent with a 1.5L and it is dropping #2 & #3 cylinders. I changed the coil packs and still had no spark on #2 & #3. I checked the wires going to the coils and had no voltage feeding the coil packs.
View 1 RepliesChanged the spark plugs on my 2006 Camry today. Everything went smoothly and quickly except for the fact that I broke all the little keeper clips on the connector plugs that connect to the coil packs. I called my Toyota dealers and one said I had to replace the entire wire harness. The other found the connector plugs for around $8 each. Will the broken clips be a problem with the connectors eventually coming off from vibration if I don't replace them? I'm not sure how to replace the connectors if I go that route. How to go about replacing the connector plugs?
View 7 RepliesThis morning I started my car and it was idling a little rough. The the Check Engine light began flashing - I immediately turned off the car and consulted this forum and my father the mechanic. After talking with my Dad and telling him that the car had sat for a week, he thought the issue was probably NOT the catalytic converter and thought it was probably related to the car sitting and possibly getting moisture in the gas. I started the car again (the roughness at idle seemed to have gone away) but the check engine light/malfunction indicator light (MIL) did not flash, it did come back on after a few seconds, but as a solid light . And as we've all read, it's OK to drive with a solid MIL.
I took the car over to Autozone and had the codes checked - P0300 (multiple cylinder miss fire) and P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire). I asked them to clear the codes. I has just put in new NGK spark plugs last month, so I didn't think it would be the plugs. I looked at a new coil pack for one of the cylinders. I decided to see if clearing the codes alone would work and drove home. No issues so far, no MIL, no rough idle, no hesitation (fingers crossed).
When I called the stearleship - they recommended I have the car towed, but would not speculate as to what the flashing MIL could be (catalytic converter or bad coil pack(s))...
i have a 01 passat with a v6 in it on 4 motion and im having an issue with soem mis-firing
i pulled the codes. P0300 P0301 P0302 and P0303 which are all saying that there are missfires in cylander 1,2 and 3 and random miss fires.
im also getting a P0340 which is cam sensor A or the right hand bank. problem is i just replaced the cam sensor and when the motor got warm, the code came back. I was told by the previous owner that the car needed a Coolant Temp Sensor....can this be the cause of my mis-fire issue? hear me out.... it only happens when the car is warm so im thinking that the car is warm but the ecu thinks its cold cause its not getting a good signal from the CTS. thus its either advancing the timing as if the motor is cold and cuasing a miss fire or something along those lines. any thoughts?
We bought a used 2001 Grand Am (V6 automatic) a few months ago. Mileage was just under 100,000. It was running decently at first, but that improved once we did more maintenance. It's gone from about 150 miles on the highway on a full tank to about 250. A lot of the problems didn't reveal themselves until we took it onto the highways. These are the parts we changed in the last 2 months:
-new battery (old one was 0.1 above fail)-all 6 spark plugs-catalytic converter-front oxygen sensor-oil filter-timing belt-pcv valve and breather hose (old one melted)-all 4 shocks/struts
Latest problem is OBD code P0301 cylinder #1 misfire. The entire car started to shake when we were in low speed in a drive thru. It only seems to shake in drive gear and it does it the whole time. It doesn't shake in reverse or any other gear. Found out #1 spark plug was cracked and a chunk of the ceramic portion was missing. It got replaced but that didn't fix the problem. Haven't noticed any white exhaust yet. The ignition fails 1/7 of the time since P0301surfaced.
The last problem we had was P0420. We went to 3 different shops and nobody was able to fix the problem properly. It wasn't until the pcv valve and breather hose were replaced that the code disappeared. The valve was actually cracked and parts of the breather hose were melted. I can't understand why nobody noticed that.
I know there could be a lot going on, but I was hoping the possible problem could be narrowed down.
I have a 2009 f 250 5.4 v8 trition motor my coil packs are slowly failing. I want to replace all 8 of them. Which coils and plugs I am going to need. I guess I'll replace the plugs also, how are the accel coil packs and ngk plugs....
View 1 RepliesI have a 03 250 5.4 with 160k. I just recently replaced #4&3 coil packs. Truck was running great again. Then a few days later the truck was running extremely rough and white smoke from the exhaust. I noticed the pcv valve was not all the way in(pretty much out) put it back in and ran fine for two days now running rough every now and then and the pcv valve is making a vibrating noise but stops if I pinch it slightly. I did replace the plugs a year ago.
View 14 RepliesB5 Passat, it has the 2.8 and it has been having moments of shuttering so I did a scan and hit 3 engine falts, I did do a clear and rescan so these are new faults.
3 Faults Found:
17801 - Ignition Coil Power Output 1
P1393 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction
17802 - Ignition Coil Power Output 2
P1394 - 35-00 - Electrical Malfunction
17803 - Ignition Coil Power Output 3
P1395 - 35-10 - Electrical Malfunction - Intermittent
Right now my guess is the coil pack is going out or loose connection to the coil, this coil is roughly 8 months old so it kinda has me at a loss and hoping its not the coil.
I would like to find out why my car is misfiring before throwing parts at it. I have a basic level of mechanics and have checked a few things before posting here, which may or may not have ruled out some possibilities.
The problem: I have been consistently getting P0301 and P0304 but only happens sometimes, while other times there is no check engine light. I first checked the ignition coil, right side of it, that controls cylinders 1 and 4. Did resistance test, measured for voltage, and checked the wires for continuity to the connector, with everything coming out good. I know a few must have had issues with the cheap pigtail connector like me so I went and changed that but still got the misfire codes. I then put in an older known to be good working coil but no change.
After that, I removed spark plugs 1 and 4 and put them where 2 and 3 go but still got the same codes P0301 and P0304.
A friend who is a mechanic for Nissan checked the spark and wires, saying they were fine. He then checked the injectors and noticed that injector 1 didn't increase in ticking sound when RPM increased. He said I should replace injectors 1 and 4 to see if that changes anything or switch injectors 1 and 4 with 2 and 3 to see if the codes at least change. I removed them all, got two of them from junkyard just in case, made my own tool where I pumped straight fuel injector cleaner through each of them with pumped air, and put the two from junkyard on cylinders 1 and 4. I still got the same codes so then I switched injectors 1 and 4 with 2 and 3, which didn't change the codes.
I was told by another local mechanic shop that it's definitely the coil but I knew it wasn't.
Other info: I am not sure it would matter when dealing with a misfire but I borrowed a code scanner and saw that the Long Term Fuel Trim was -7%. I researched that and it means that the car is running rich and the computer is being told that it needs to run lean. I am not sure that this would make only two of the cylinders misfire and the freeze data shows that same negative LTFT for when the P0301 happened. I also know that there is an air leak at the gasket where the front cat connects to the flex pipe/rear cat. I have also gotten a rear downstream 02 sensor code once within the past month but it hasn't come back.
Would the LTFT being lean have anything to do with the misfires? Would the gasket between the two cats cause the 02 sensor to get a faulty reading? If so, would the downstream 02 sensor be able to adjust to a lean fuel mix? What else should I check?
I have a 2010 model Hyundai Accent showing error codes P0301, P0302. It has a 1.6L engine. I know little about cars, what is going on and how to fix it.
View 7 RepliesThis has been an ongoing issue with our 2006. We purchased the car about a year ago and have put on just over 8,000 miles. Rebuilt the battery pack and replaced the 12v battery. This is my wife's car and I have a 2005, so I have done some diagnostics, tuneup, and even swapped some parts between the two cars trying to narrow down the issues.
Only recently have codes been recorded. The car is has a noticeable misfire at low RPM. Here is what has happened up until now:
11/29/15 - replaced spark plugs - #1 was fouled so I swapped coils between cylinders 1 and 4
2/25/16 - replaced 12v battery with new battery
4/1/16 - P0300, P0301 codes were first recorded and reset to see if they came back
4/10/16 - swapped Integration Relay with my 2005 (part # 82641-47010). My 2005 ran poorly after the swap, so I put a used one in my 2005.
The Explorer ran just fine last week, until I tried to clear a chronic (months) "Check Engine" light. Initially the only 2 codes were pertaining to the DPFE sensor and Cylinder #1 misfire. I found an aftermarket rubber hose from the DPFE that had rotted off. I replaced the rubber hose, and I replaced the #1 spark plug and wire. Instead of simply clearing the codes and turning off the "Check Engine" light, it now shakes to the point where it's barely drivable. 57 mph seems to be the "sweet spot" where the shaking is the worst, but it will also shake under heavy acceleration, and when driving uphill at freeway speeds. Taking your foot off the gas seems to decrease the shaking somewhat. The weather had been unusually cold (for South Texas), and as the weather has warmed-up, the shaking seems to have diminished, so there may be a connection between the shaking and the temperature.
OBD-II Trouble Code: P0301 Cylinder 1 One Misfire Detected
OBD-II Trouble Code: P0401 Insufficient EGR Flow
I have a lot of questions, but do not want to cloud the 1st post of the thread with information that may be irrelevant, so I'll leave it at that. This is my work vehicle and I'm in the middle of a job and am worried that I may be causing permanent damage to the vehicle by driving it. I know I can change-out the DPFE sensor and the ICM, but as they are both non-returnable parts, I don't want to spend the money without good reason.
2000 Ford Ex 5.4 V8 175K miles
Top of radiator (plastic part) had a small crack and started leaking on drivers side. Fixed with JB Weld. Ran fine for a day. Now I have a bad misfire and codes P0301 and P0302 (Cyl 1 and 2). Cleaned MAF and checked Air Filter. All good. Plugs replaced at dealer less than 20K miles ago.
So I took off Cyl 5 (easiest) and found that the boot is fine but the collar on the boot is done for. Can this cause the issue?
I recently had detected always misfire on those cylinders. Any relation between them?
View 1 RepliesJust got a 98 f150 w/ 5.4 4x4 excab. It idles fine but under light accleration. It starts bucking and missing bad, if I step on it, it down shifts and accelerates fine. If I try to maintain one speed it misses bad. It is not throwing any codes right now. The check engine light did come on for like a minute but went back off before I could have it read. I hooked up a scanner just to see if any codes were stored and got p0300 and p0301. I am going to clean the MAF and check for vacuum leaks. I hear the rear plug and coils can get water in them causing similar problems.
View 8 Replies