Passat (B5) :: Clutch Grinds For 2 Seconds When Upshifting
Oct 11, 2010
I drive a 04 passat 5spd with 100k on it. Anyway, the clutch grabs fine, doesn't slip out of gear and slips right in. SOMETIMES when I shift it grinds for like .2 seconds and the goes away, and it drives normal. It ONLY does this when upshifting, downshifting it has never happened. It pulls fine, 4th gear up a hill it still gains. Do you think a tranny flush would cure this little issue? Or Is my clutch now terminal.
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I have a 1996 Mitsubishi Eclipse RS 2.0 DOHC Manual transmission i just replaced the clutch bled the clutch no air in lines drove around the block grinds changing gears then pulled to my driveway and the clutch got stuck and did not want to disengage so had to turn off engine to prevent from hitting the house. There is a rattle in the gear box that's pretty loud the master and slave cylinder dont have any visible leaks even n the boot for the pin that pushes the clutch fork the pin seems to only move maybe an inch and the pedal is ver soft. in fact while driving it seemed it got softer even after i bled the clutch many times still seems to be soft.
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Yesterday I had my first test drive of the 2012 2.5L gas Passat SEL automatic. It seemed there was often a little "stumble" as the car accelerated from rest. Is this normal or just an issue with this particular car ?
The only other annoyance I noticed was the rapid up-shifting through the gears past 30 mph. I guess it's set up this way for economy reasons, but acceleration seems to hit a wall when this occurs, then I have to apply more pressure on the go pedal. The salesman was one week on the job and knew far less about the car than I did.
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I have a 2002 S10, I'm the second owner. I checked with the previous owner ( the person I bought it from) to see if he has ever had any issues with the A/C. He said "Not at all." I do know the truck was sitting very close to a year.
I've recharged the system and now it's right at the red so far as r-134a gauge go. When I turn the A/C I can hear the A/C clutch kicking in and out like every 9 seconds.
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I have a 99 f350 7.3 diesel. The AC clutch cycles on for 3-4 turns and then off for 45 sec. It the does it again. The low side starts to cool down and then the clutch quits. as the truck warms up the clutch quits completely. it will restart for a few times if I push in on the elec conn on the ac clutch. My Ac has quit cooling and summer is almost here.
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I'm at my place in Florida 1,000 miles from home, and when I started the car in a mall parking lot, there was some grinding metallic noise for a few seconds and I couldn't get it into first or reverse and the clutch pedal was way down. I was able to get going in 2nd and eventually the clutch was back to normal and I could get 1st and R. What happened? Broke some fingers in the pressure plate? Seems to run fine now but have a 1,000 mile ride ahead in the morning.
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On 2500 mile trip, no A/C last 400 miles and we're cooking
Compressor clicking on/off about every 5 secs, clutch smell. Seems to be turning okay.
I brought some tools, including a full socket set.
Can I pull the clutch and remove shims in the campground? Looking for a condensed version of how?
Worst case, how do I replace the clutch- of I can find a dealer with one?
Pulley and clutch fixed, but cycling on and off...adding freon?
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I just recently purchased my 1999 ford F-250 superduty V8 5.4 5 speed with 144,00 miles and I'm having a issue with the clutch pedal sticking in and then it will pop out after a couple seconds. It will stick more when I come to a light and have my foot on the clutch but the pickup drives fine and there is no slipping of the clutch. I have never experienced this issue before in any rig I've owned. so I'm a little lost at the moment.
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When upshifting into 5th gear there is a slight hesitation before actually going into gear? I do not have this issue with any other gears!
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I stated my problem incorrectly in a previous post. 99 Grand Marquis. The transmission won't UP shift unless you release the gas pedal. Check engine light not on, no OBD codes. Changed the transmission fluid and filter. Fluid level OK.
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I've noticed a bit of noise when the R is in manual mode, upshifting from 1st to 2nd. It can hear a bit of a clunk with the windows up or down (obviously a bit more pronounced windows down). It never makes the noise in "D", and maybe 50% of the time in "M".
No other noises that I can tell, from upshifts to downshifts in any other gear. Just the manual 1st to 2nd shift. Trans seems smooth, already had a Mech replacement.
Should I be concerned, or even take it to the dealer? I'd take a video, but I dont' think the mic on my phone would even pick up the sound. It's definitely there though...
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So I'm driving to work this morning, 35 miles one way, and I get to my destination, or almost. 1999 Cavalier, automatic transmission, 215,000 miles.
As I get to the red light where I need to turn, it seemed as if it was not upshifting on its own. It is an automatic. I made the turn, then made another turn and as I pressed the gas, it seemed to do the same, not wanting to shift into second.
As I turned to go up to the second level of the parking lot, it gave up about 3/4 of the way up to level 2. Pressing the gas just revved the engine. I tried switching into 1, 2, back to D, even to R, but nothing worked. It is like it just gave up and decided the only thing that would work is neutral.
When I switch into gear normally, you hear that slight thud as it falls into gear, but when I try it now, nothing happens.
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I have a 2007 Honda Accord EX (4-cylinder) manual. When upshifting, after pressing the clutch and my foot is OFF the gas, the engine stays at 2000 rpm for a few seconds before falling back; often it even INCREASES speed with my foot OFF the gas. This happens only when upshifting/accelerating and even when the car is warmed up. Is it a bad sensor, computer or throttle control?
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When I am going about 55 my transmission sometimes starts downshifting and then up shifting again for no reason.
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I am experiencing a slight bump when up-shifting from 1-2nd and back, sometimes with hi-er revs, sometimes just a delay followed with a "bump". A quote from an indy mechanic came at around $4500... (as I have 2004 4,2) he thinks seals are not soft / flexible any more therefore at lower speeds not allowing enough oil to go through... or something like that ( I`m not sure how that all works...)
Most of the similar threads indicate a flush first and if no improvement than a complete re & re.
Interesting enough, I went to VW dealer for a second opinion and they said that getting an individual parts for transmission repair is impossible for them, rather a whole unit only?!
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2011 Corolla S 1.8L 4 speed auto
Been having a harsh 1-2 upshift issue lately. Had my car into a transmission shop as the dealer keeps saying nothing is wrong and the shop told me they got a p1603 code. Is this a problem and what should I do?
The mechanics writing was bad so I am unsure if it is p1603 or p1e03. I have tried looking up the code and it is a variety of things. One says engine stall history? All I remember doing recently is disconnecting the battery to try and reset the transmission computer and after the first start the car stalled then it started fine.
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After 11 VWs, I finally have one that I would love to drive over a cliff. My 2015 Golf TSI Sport is a miserable car for me. I have had it back to the dealer four times for the infamous "shimmy" and shift problem with the automatic transmission. It has the standard automatic. The transmission has no idea which gear to use, it shifts like a bowling ball in a barrel.
Clunks upshifting and downshifting. The other problem is the shimmy/wobble. I have it in spades. The car always feels like it is hitting small strips in the road with a constant vibration in the front. The dealer cannot find the problem even though VW is trying to figure it out. (I have a feeling this isn't the first time). It is the worst driving car I have ever owned. Would much rather drive my 04 GTI with 100,000 miles and worn tires.
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I have a 2006 hyundai sonata, which has possibly the worst designed cup holder of all time. Because of this awful design flaw, I stopped my car at a light yesterday and some of my coffee spilled into the gear shift box. Now when I am in regular D, it appears the car stays in 1st gear. This sonata also has the option of pushing the stick to the right so you can manually shift gears.. I think it's called sports mode or something. When I try that, I can shift it up to 2nd, but I drops right back down to 1. I left it overnight, hoping it was just some wet electronics and would dry, but this morning the problem persists. Not sure if there's a fix for this, if I should take it to a transmission place, or just my regular mechanic. Someone suggested contact cleaner, which I might have I just have to look.
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I have a 2005 Elantra where my transmission went. The tranny had a harsh upshifting when driving, also had it in the shop four times because it was hard to get into Park or Drive. Shop said they never could find a problem.. Did some checking on internet, the Accent and Elantra shared the same transmission I believe, and found a TSB describing trans axle solenoid problems from 1999 to 2006. I am going to fight this as I don't think I should have to pay for a factory defect.
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I have an 89 Ranger, 5 speed, 2wd, M50D transmission. On the way home tonight I was upshifting from a stop and when I went to go from 4th to 5th the shifter wouldn't budge. Luckily I was on a back road so I pulled off the road and tried all sorts of things (rolling truck while stopped, etc) and the shifter just will not budge.
Now here is the thing. I had my fiancé with me and no tools so I really couldn't do any diagnosing. However, 6 months ago I replaced the clutch, pressure plate, throwout bearing, slave cylinder, and pilot bearing. While I had the transmission out of the truck I changed the fluid, siliconed around the rubber plugs, and put a shift bushing kit in. The bushing kit is the bushings around the shift ball with new wave washers and new pins that insert into the ball.
It is obviously not related to the clutch as it engages/disengages properly. When this happened, there were no noises of any kind when I shifted from 3rd to 4th. It just will not come out of 4th. I am going to pull the shifter out tomorrow and have a look. Do you think one of the new pins that I drove in to hold the shift ball broke or fell out or something and if so would it cause this problem?
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I bought a rebuilt trans from a fellow vortex member a little over a month ago. I had it installed and ever since then when I am getting on it going from second to third it grinds a little bit going into third gear. It only does this when i get on it, but when im just cruising its fine. Could the shift linkage just need aligned? Or what else could it be?
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