Last week I took my baby to AWE Tuning, and had a chip and a diverter valve installed, when i left it felt like a different car it was great! now when im driving its not right, ok ill be in gear and as soon as i get on it and hit like 3thousand rpm it feels like the clutch is engaged and the rpms shoot up fast and the car isnt moving like it should. is it my clutch?
View 1 RepliesI have a 05 gli and when in idle the rpms go down really low then shoot back up. what could be the cause and how would i go about fixing this?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2006 Hyundai Sonata that in winter does very strange things, almost ghostly. While driving, headlights flicker on and off, the dash abs and esc warning lights go on, and rpm's shoot up and stay there as if it downshifted by itself. I have to pull off the road and turn the car off.
Further, three different times I shut the car off and then nothing would work, including not being able to start the car. After it sits a while it then seems to reprogram itself and works properly.
I contacted Hyundai, and they only said bring it in and pay to diagnose it. But there appears to be no fix, as many have reported electrical problems for this model on the internet.
So the other day I was driving to my storage locker about 30 miles away. All of a sudden my rpms would shoot up to 2000 rpms then back down to 1500 . Slowly they would go up higher every time. On my way back I was about 2 miles away and I lost 3rd and 4th a presume. I would be going 20-25 and it felt like it would be shifting up to third but would shift down to 2nd running 3500 rpms. I had to go 20 the rest of the time. Finally I got home and realized my dipstick tube wasn't in the tranny and must have lost oil. So I got it back in and added more. Thought it was the filter and oil so dropped the pan and replaced it. Still nothing.
View 2 RepliesI have a 3.3L 2007 Sonata. Within the past month, after first turning it on in the morning, the RPMs shoot up to about 1400 and slowly come down to normal after about 5 minutes. It does this in park and neutral, when I put it into drive it goes down to normal. If I drive it for a mile and put it back into park and neutral, it idles at a normal RPM. If I turn the car off for ten minutes and start it up again, it idles normal at about ~850 RPMs.
After doing a bit of google research, a lot of sites say that this is a normal thing for a cold engine to do. However, the RPMs have never gone that high previously. The check engine light hasn't come on.
2010 Mazda Speed 3 ....My car has about 62,000 miles on it and has recently been having acceleration issues. 1-3rd gear seem under powered and what I am giving on the gas does not equal the power that should be coming forth, the RPMs seem to shoot up really high with no power transfer. When i am in 3-5th gear my acceleration is again funky with the slightest touch on the gas again causing the RPMs to jump high with no return of power to actually accelerate. I recently replaced the battery and changed the oil??
View 6 RepliesI have a 1998 Toyota Camry , whenever I start it after its been sitting for 3 or more hours the rpm's shoot up to2,000 and stay there for 3-4 minutes straight, if I hit the gas they don't go down, if I turn my heat on they come down a little bit.
View 3 RepliesWhen I start my 2003 Escape 3.0, the rpm's shoot up to about 3000rpms. After a few seconds they drop to about 2000 and slowly creep back up to 3000. When I put in gear, I don't even have to step on the gas and my vehicle goes. It maintains between 1500-2000rpms as I'm driving. When I come to a red light or stop sign, it lurches like it wants to go even though I have my foot on the brakes. I've replaced the IAC valve, TPS, had it checked for vacuum leaks, PCV valve replaced. I'm at a loss as to what it could be.
View 3 RepliesRecently I have noticed that when on a tune other than stock I am getting a surge at idle - my RPMs drop to around 621-630 then shoot back up to 660-675. On my stock tune my RPMs stay around 640-667 and don't cause the surge (felt as a shimmy so to speak). Is there anything else that causes a similar symptom? I attribute it to tuning due to it only happening when running anything but stock but could be wrong.
View 2 RepliesI just recently got handed a 2005 ford f250 6.0 PSD from my older brother, new to the whole diesel game, well all of a sudden as i was driving down the road about 65 mph, trucks RPMS shoot to about 4K and tow haul light starts blinking as i start pulling over (still in drive of course) i realize i can't move anymore the trucks rpm just rev. In all gears it does not move i moved 1-3 D and R and nothing truck just revs. i had my father get under the truck as i shift from gear to gear and the linkage is moving back and forth on the transmission as i put it in reverse the reverse lights still pop on, I'm new to the diesel game...
View 9 RepliesJust noticed that upon start up and idle ac blows ice cold. 5 miles down the road it starts to blow warmer. I've misplaced my manifold set. I did have a low pressure gauge from a long time ago.
Low pressure was would stay around 40psi then slowly over 5 seconds or so drop down to 20 hold for about 10 second and climb back up. All while just at idle.
That's after i added a can of refrigerant. After the second can it seems to have stabilized at around 40 psi. Which is still a little low for being almost 90* outside.
I know with just one reading its like reading a book and only reading every other page.
Here is my main question. Is the compressor suppose to cycle? I've always been under the impression it does. So i deemed a bad pressure switch possibly right off the bat. After doing a google search i see some are stating that it runs continuously.
The only time in a 15 min span my compressor kicked off is when i turned the control to "OFF" or when i unplugged the pressure switch. Is this right? Seems like i would burn up the compressor...
It's starting to get warm again down here and I've started running my AC in the afternoon on my way home from work. I've noticed that as soon as I get off the freeway and sit at idle waiting for the light, the RPM's on my car drop considerably while the AC is engaged. I know there is a valve, AC idle-up valve or some such thing, that increases the idle when the AC is engaged. Where is it located and what is the proper name/part number so I can check or replace it? Haynes isn't supporting.
View 4 RepliesI bought a used accent 1.3 before few months , with 100k miles on the clock. I did all the basic maintenance stuff, oils, filters, spark plugs, coolant, timing belt etc... I replaced the clutch disc also, because it was slipping.
The problem is that the clutch engage with a knock sound, just like when you have a loose engine mount. But... if i stay with clutch pedal pressed for a second, do the shift and released, the clutch engage smooth and all works fine. So, that's the way I do shifts for now.. Is this a flyweel problem?
I bought a 1999 F150 4.6 4x4 recently that is giving me some problems. The current one is the AC compressor. The system wasn't charged when I bought it a month or so ago and last week the compressor started smoking. I replaced it with a brand new one, including the clutch and pulley, accumulator and orifice tube. I never got the chance to charge the system because the first time I drove the truck the new compressor started freezing up. I took it back and exchanged it and put the new one in. This time I paid attention and the clutch engages as soon as I start the truck. The AC controls are off and there is no freon in the lines.
View 10 RepliesI have a 2003 2.8 GLI and my compressor clutch will not engaged i provided the clutch with a direct power and ground from the battery and it engaged. i also went to the junk yard and got a couple of Fan Control Module ($4 each) and it still does not engaged.
View 3 RepliesSo I've had a habit of slightly engaging my clutch at stop lights so that the transition to the gas is easier and quicker. Never had a problem until today where I smelt the dreaded clutch burn odor. I think I had it too engaged since it was sorta lugging at a standstill for a bit, but in general is this a bad idea? If I don't go as aggressive as the lugging feeling but slightly release it, am I doing damage?
View 19 RepliesHere's the scoop: 2 year old clutch & flywheel with 21,000 miles on them. Clutch master cyl. is full & not leaking. The clutch slave cyl. moves when the clutch is pressed & is also not leaking. The shifter linkage has been checked at the shifter and moves freely as it should.
I started the car, put it in gear, let the clutch out and there is no movement from the car regardless of the engine revs. The engine runs freely and does not die with the clutch engaged and the transaxle in gear. Putting it in ANY gear (including reverse) has no effect. The car will not move.
After turning the engine off I left the car in gear, left the e-brake disengaged, released the foot brake and the car stayed put. I then put the shifter into neutral, let the foot brake off and the car began to roll. I stopped, put the shifter back into 1st, let the foot brake off and the car was again stationary and did not roll. This tells me that the shifter linkage indeed works and that the car WILL go into gear. So, why won't the car move under power?
I have a 1996 Explorer XL 2 dr. It has the 4.0L OHV V6 and the 4R55E Transmission. I bought it used with 152,000 miles on the odometer. About a month after I bought it I noticed it sounded different. I looked down at the tach and the RPMs are up around 2500 with the overdrive engaged. I turned the overdrive off and nothing changed. I turned it back on and nothing changed.
That weekend I pulled the tranny pan and filter and replaced the filter and fluid. There was the normal amount of debris in the bottom of the pan but nothing major. Now when I drive it it tries to shift into overdrive but when it does the engine bogs down and the O/D off light starts flashing. I know how to do the overhaul but I wanted to get a few opinions before I start tearing into it. What could be wrong .
I've been noticing my GTI has been making some weird noises, especially after only have 380 miles on it. When idling with the clutch engaged, it makes a rattling noise that goes away when depressed. There's also a rather loud sound coming from the timing belt and just underneath the plastic engine cover. I'm hoping it just needs breaking in, but I'd just like some reassurance that it's nothing serious.
View 8 Replies99 Jetta, installed a new AC compressor a month ago, has been working great, not clutch will engage for a few moments, then turn off for a minute, then engage again. Seems, like there is Freon in there by the gauge on the low side.
View 4 RepliesWithin the past 2 weeks I've been noticing that when I shift hard into 2nd and 3rd, I manage to grind the gears slightly. At first I thought that maybe I wasn't engaging the clutch fully but after enduring rush hour traffic in the hilly streets of SF yesterday, I noticed that I could replicate the grinding at a full stop with the clutch fully engaged which makes me think that maybe my clutch is going bad.
I'm a bit unsure since the car still pulls up the hills like a champ (maybe it could be pulling harder?) and need to point out tell tale signs to look for when your clutch is starting to fail and requires replacement.
If my problem is not due to clutch, what could it be? If it is, any good place in bay area to take the R? I plan to replace with stock set up.
Currently I have stock clutch w/ +73k miles. I did have an episode where a car transporter managed to make thick grey smoke pour from my clutch due to ineptitude so clutch failure would not surprise me.