Passat (B5) :: Clunking From Suspension - Symptoms Of Control Arm Failure
Mar 31, 2011
I have a quick question about the control arms on the B5. I have an 01 Passat GLX 4motion, the was previously my mothers. She had the upper arms (iirc) replaced around 60k but not all of them. I got the car with 64k from her, and it now has 92k of mostly highway miles. I have a few clunks from the suspension but nothing crazy, and considering the shocks and dampers are probably shot i cant seem to tell if its the arms or the shocks.
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I'm experiencing some TPS failure symptoms and high fuel consumption.... I've unplugged the ecu harness to measure the voltages, measured a constant 6v on the return signal wire while it should be about 0v. While the input voltage is normal 5v. A strange reading as well is that signal reading with both battery terminals is 6v!!
Would this be a short on the ecu cable or is it a corrupted ECU? Also today I had tough hesitation in the morning while the engine was cold, after warm up it was normal! Is this related or its idle sensor?! ( Plugs and their cables are new)...
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This just started happening on the driver side. Going over bumps and slight road wobble type imperfections make a medium pitched clunk sound. The sound stops as soon as I press the brakes ( which I just replaced last week). I do have a worn out bushing on the curved lower control arm. Could that be it? Do I need to replace all control arms or can I do just the curved set? If thats the issue.
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My 2002 Passat Wagon (2.8L, FWD) has started developing a clunking noise at 67,000 miles in the front right suspension. Based on forum search here, it sounds like a common problem with the control rods, tie rod ends, ...
I looked at the control arm kits available at ECS Tuning. Is this a DIY job for someone with only moderate mechanical skills? I have never performed front end suspension work before. How difficult is it? Special tools needed?
If I had it done (both sides, upper and lower) at an independent repair shop, how much might I expect to pay?
Lastly, is it best to replace all the parts (as provided in these kits), rather than isolating the part that is currently causing the clunk and just replacing what needs to be replaced?
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We have a 1999 Passat GLX 2.8 auto. I recently put on a new inner and outer tie rod as well as a lower forward control arm. The issue that we are experiencing is that when accelerating or braking hard there is a popping/clunking noise coming from the driver front area. When accelerating or braking normally/ smoothly it is fine. But, as I said accelerate or brake hard it will make a single pop or clunk and that is it, just once when braking hard or accelerating quickly.
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We began to get an intermittent cruise control failure (big exclamation point in the lower left of the MFD and no green "cruise" when the lever was clicked to "on") in my wife's 2007 2.0T Passat several months ago. During the same period she told me that the car occasionally didn't want to crank...although it always started on a second try. Well, to make a long story short, I had the battery replaced at the 60K service a couple weeks ago and the cruise has worked flawlessly ever since.
I put two and two together just before I took it in for service when the car showed failure of the antiskid system in addition to the cruise following a particularly difficult start. Sure enough, the new battery fixed it. Apparently some of the accessory systems go into a failure mode when they don't get enough current on startup.
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I have a 1999 VW Passat that has a problem with its cruise control that two dealers have not been able to solve. Most of the time I cannot engage the cruise control. Other times it will work properly for 30 minutes. On a rare occasion, it will work properly for several hours. It does not seem to matter what type of road I am driving on. On the rare occasions when it works properly, it does not seem to matter if I stop the care and shut off the engine.
It appears is is there are times when it stops working that stopping the care and shutting off the engine is useful when I begin driving again. However, there is nothing consistent about when it fails, and when it again functions. The dealers have said little more than the cruise control is not working. One dealer installed a new break pedal sensor which did not resolve the problem.
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My B5 1.8t 5M cruise control has stopped working. It became intermittent for a while and now it is dead. I have a long commute and really need the cruise to work.
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Well, I had a check engine light that lasted only three days then it cleared itself without any intervention. I checked it with a vag-com and I discovered there was an issue with the intake manifold control. I ended up bringing it to the dealer since it is a fairly new passat, and the service department informed me that the Intake Manifold Runner Control needed to be replaced.
Below were the fault codes.
3 Faults Found:
012599 - Intake Manifold Runner Control: Basic Setting not Completed
P3137 - 001 - Upper Limit Exceeded - Intermittent
Freeze Frame:
Fault Status: 00100001
Fault Priority: 0
Fault Frequency: 1
Mileage: 33815 km
Time Indication: 0
[Code] .....
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What are the symptoms of the clutch slip.
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I've been getting a really "rough" gear shift between first and second, almost like someone hit my car from behind. All other gears are super smooth though. No error's on VAG COM or anything. I'm just a bit confused if an error's are thrown or is it something the dealer needs to identify?
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How to fix SES P0670?? I understand there's a whole procedure on checking fault.
P0670:GPCM Glow plug control module control line failure. Open/grounded circuit, open/shorted GPCM, failed PCM
But how did you resolve problem? replaced GPCM, found open circuit, short --if so where?-- or replaced with updated harness.
(4C3Z-12B568-AA connector upgrade kit as in picture)???
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After a little less than a week of clunking noises the steering on my daughters 2004 Malibu completely failed. The steering wheel moves the steering column, but not the tires. NHTSA has done 2 investigations and issued 8 TSB's on the steering system, but no recall. My question is if there is a way to determine if it is the rack and pinion system or the power steering control module. It seems many people have replaced multiple components on their cars without resolving steering problems. I am hoping to avoid that...
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Was driving on some segmented highway concrete that send my front end into quite a thrashing. Slowed down quite a bit and it settle down some but nothing like that before. Pain attention to ride but it feels OK, corners, etc. BUT, over the past few weeks, I've noticed that it has become quite sensitive to sharp transitions (BOTS dots a.k.a. line markers, driveways, etc. so I have a suspicion that one or more of the air spring assemblys has possibly failed or a leak.
It's like the equivalent of a worn out strut. The car hold up. Raises and lowers, etc. But I can't push down on the car to test the response of the suspension like a standard strut car. What is the expected life of the air suspension? And cost to replace pair or all four. Not looking forward to the possible expenses.
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Having problems with air suspension/compressor? Mine has totally failed with an error message of RUNNING GEAR FAILURE- WORKSHOP!
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Last night I was sitting in my living room when I heard what I thought was a tire blowing out in my driveway - loud pop/hiss. Went outside but didn't see any flat tires, so I went to bed. This morning I got in the car and started backing out of the driveway but got the alert "Vehicle Too Low" - got out and saw that my front tires were almost touching the inside of the wheel wells. Trying to change the ride height via the suspension button has no effect at all.
I'm super bummed - I've always said that because of the cost to repair, a strut failure in the amazing air suspension would probably be what did this car in. But I didn't expect it to happen so soon - I'm "only" at 129k miles. It happened in my driveway and not 60 minutes earlier while I was doing 75 MPH on the highway.
Pic here: [URL] ....
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Aside from the clutch and gear changing noise, recently I've been noticing something that sounds almost like a rattle when going over bumps, say a series of filled potholes on a highway where they just slightly bump to move your wheel around, it's not that deep thumping you would expect to hear but it sounds like something is loose in terms of the suspension.
Happens on the front and seems like its coming from both sides. To me it sort of sounds like they forgot to tighten something up when they removed the shipping "blocks"/spacers, but I am not exactly sure what to check. I really do not want to visit the dealership at only 600 miles on the clock ...
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After doing reading I think my issue might be suspension related. Whenever I engage the clutch at a normal rate I get a rubbing/clunking noise coming from the driver side. I can feel it thru the gas pedal and it sounds like a card in a bicycles spokes. If I engage the clutch extremely lightly I don't get the noise at all. This only happened AFTER I had my H&R Sport Springs installed. Could it be a strut mount? Engine Mount? The car only has 4500 miles on it. I'm extremely confused.
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My 02 Santa Fe was checked after recall notice November 2011- and passed- On 20th April 2013 sudden failure of drivers side rear suspension - fortunately no fatalities and no third party involved-The passenger and car was brought home on a low loader by the RAC. Notified the Hyundai Recall Administrator and was passed onto the Consumer Service Team- Sent the requested car information and pictures of the corroded rear suspension the same day. Was told the person dealing with this is going on Holiday- Result so far- Car still on my drive and no further interest from Hyundai- Not sure what to do next?
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My 2006 V6 has about 115k miles. I pulled up and parked the other day and with the car still running, heard a loud "bang" under the right passenger side, and then the compressor wouldn't stop, even with the keys out of the ignition...it was still running an hour later when the flatbed took her away to the dealer.
The car was rear-ended 4 years ago and the back hatch/glass, which operates from the air suspension system, hasn't been able to hold itself up in several years. So there probably really is a real problem with the air system.
Here are questions initial questions I have.
1. From what I've read, it is common that a leak elsewhere in the system caused the compressor to eventually fail. The dealer is telling me that the compressor "blew apart inside" and that it needs to be replaced. Is this reasonable given that the compressor was still audibly operating an hour later?
2. The dealer is telling me that they cannot troubleshoot the rest of the air suspension system without me buying the compressor first. Is this a reasonable approach and level of competence? The service went on to say "We don't see many of these." Should I be worry? I am also concerned that I've read stories about dealer service departments who didn't know/didn't offer up that components of the suspension system can be replaced without the whole, very expensive unit.
3. The SUV was in the dealer 3 days prior for a new drive shaft and some electrical repair in the headlight which included the fuses blowing several times. Could there be any connection or does this sound like coincidence? Any thing I should ask them to protect my interests.
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I have a clunking noise from the right front suspension when going over bumps. I've replaced the Strut bushings that were collapsed, the control arm bushings that had play and the noise is still there. There is no play in the links. There is a slight noise in the sway bar bushings when struck with a rubber mallet. I hate to keep replacing parts chasing down this noise.
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