Passat (B5) :: Clunking / Vibrating And Clutch Sinking When Fully Released
Oct 23, 2008
2000 v6 manual wagon with +-90k. Brutally lowered with KW coils. First thing I noticed was the clutch pedal slowly getting lower and lower to the floor when fully released. Besides the pitch getting shorter, it seems to work fine, no slipping at all. It now sits a couple inches closer to the floor than the other pedals.
I am also getting a couple other things that may or may not relate to the clutch. It started out as a vibration under acceleration, getting worse over about a month or so. Now it is also starting to clunk when pressing or releasing the gas while the clutch is released. It also clunks when moving from a stop, although I can regulate this with the clutch.
I am thinking it is a motor mount causing the clunking and vibrating, and maybe the engines movement has caused the clutch to come out of alignment?? I am unsure where to start, which mount to check, etc.
I also just had my oil pan replaced after slamming the ground recently. Although the problems were starting before this, I am sure this wasn't exactly good for the motor mounts....
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In every other manual transmission vehicle I have ever driven, the clutch pedal engages/disengages within an inch of the floor. Is it normal that the clutch in my 2002 Hyundai Elantra engages when the pedal is so far away from the floor? When I say far away from the floor I mean within an inch of the pedal being fully released.
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My car makes a clunking sound when the clutch is released, it's not the throw out bearing or the pressure plate, as they have been replaced twice already???? Have dual mass flywheel go bad, what were the symptoms?????
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Just got the 2010 passat two days ago. As you know, when you press the accelerator, the E brake releases. When i do this, the back of the car rises up just a bit as the brake hasnt fully released, but can this wear out the brake quicker, since im effectivly driving with the e brake half on for that half second. Im pretty sure it wont as I think it uses the rear disk brake for the E brake, but curious what others think.
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It happened again this morning while putting the tranny into reverse and backing into my slanted/graded driveway about 60'. After the clutch has been released all of the way, a BEEP...BEEP...BEEP. aural sound comes from either the engine bay or under the dash. It's not happening when driving out fresh in the morning. It only occurred when I was backing up and on a grade. First, I had thought that it was my clutch telling me - Or, maybe it was the Hill Assist actuator in conflict when the car is actually moving. No smoke or burning coming from underneath nor any idiot lights flashing on the Dash.
I left a message for the Service Manager at the VW Dealer that I purchased the car from. I haven't heard back yet if he has ever heard of or witnessed this freak of nature event. Today was the second time in a week that this "Anomaly" has occurred.
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My ford F-150 makes a clunking noise when I release the brake at a stop light or stop sign. It sounds like it is in the transmission. It only happens when I come to a complete stop and start moving again.
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I've done a bit of research both here and on other sites. I originally thought that I had a bad flywheel but I'm not convinced. First I'll give a little backstory. I just installed steel shift forks because one broke and got jammed in the gears. None of the gears are damaged and I assumed that when it slammed to halt, the flywheel got messed up. So anyways, the complaint is that when the clutch pedal is released I start to hear a knocking sound which becomes more rapid with RPM. When the pedal is depressed the sound goes away. This sound seems to be coming more from the driver's end of the trans. The car still moves in all gears so I can't imagine that I put it together wrong.
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I was sitting at a red light and the car shuttered and the rpms dropped but went back to idle. Then when the light turned green I released the clutch to start like normal and the rpms dropped and stalled. It cranks but won't start. I'm getting fuel to the fuel rail and I replaced the coil pack about a year ago.
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I have an 00 Accent 1.5 liter 5 speed with about 192000 miles on it. I have put about a tank of gas through it since I've owned it, so I can't give a lot of background on it. When I got it the previous owner told me it was popping out of fifth gear and the clutch fluid leaked.
Upon driving it around a while I noticed it would pop out of fifth and third gears almost at random, but seemed to happen more when I applied throttle. I assumed it was an issue with the shifter not fully engaging the gears, and checked out the bushings under the hood and in the console. All looked good, and I didn't see any extra play.
I drove the car for about 30 miles straight and had to downshift and wasn't able to get the car to go into any gear but fifth. I was moving about 20 mph when this occurred. I was able to limp along to a parking lot where I let the car sit for about ten min and I shifted through the gears when stopped. I headed back home with this problem throughout the trip. There is a sound that happens on occasion (that stops when I press the clutch pedal) that sounds like a bad bearing in the clutch area.
When I'm stopped with the car in neutral and I release the clutch the car stalls like it's in gear. I was able to get the car to move some, but it really doesn't want to it acts like there is something jammed in the gears and popped really loud when I backed it up.
There is fluid for the master cylinder, and I can see the slave cylinder moving when the pedal is pressed. I jacked it up and removed the plug to check for gear oil, and it came pouring out, so I think it has fluid in the gearbox. I'm pretty sure it needs a clutch at the least. I think there may be some internal damage in the tranny, and I'm only into the car for the time it took to power wash a house and don't want to get involved in a big mess.
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Last night when I turned my car on (cold engine start so let it warm up) and by accident when i was starting off on 1st i released the clutch to fast and not adding much gas causing the rpms to drop down and the car jumped and not sure if it shut off cause when it turns on it beeps once due to my tpms needing service and i heard the same beep but instead of shutting off the rpms jumped to 2k as if i was revving the engine and i began driving. What gives?
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My Grandpa has an 88 Ranger 2wd with the 2.9l V6 and a 5 speed, I believe, M5od. I was driving down the highway when I heard a noise. I tried throwing the tranny in neutral but when I pressed the clutch pedal in, I had no pedal whatsoever. Engine took awhile to restart. It'd turn over a little almost as if a rod was bent or something of the sorts. Eventually the engine started and would stay running as long as the clutch was pressed in (disengaged).
The engine dies no matter what range the transmission is in,neutral included unless the clutch pedal is depressed. It Will die when the clutch is released in any gear with no forward movement that is noticeable. I can spin the tail shaft with the driveshaft installed and all gears in neutral but the input does not spin at all. Input shaft wont spin at all, period. I originally thought the slave cylinder was KIA but now I am very confused on what the problem could be? Is there a bearing the input shaft rides on that may of seized?
I pulled the tranny last night and took the top cover off. Yes, I made sure it was in neutral when I removed the cover. I can manually shift the collar to all gears by hand, 5th and reverse included. I'm stuck between a rock and a hard place here and where to go from here. I have bought a new clutch assembly and slave cylinder. This truck was bought by my Grandpa brand new in 1988. It has 98,000 miles and everything is original. I did forget to mention that there was very little oil in the trans when I drained it and it appeared to be gear oil vs ATF.
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On my way back from the coast today, the trucks RPM's started going up and the engine was reving up, but I was losing steam. It started only when I was climbing long steep hills, but by the time I got home, it was doing from a dead stop in first gear, barely moving when I applied gas and released the clutch..
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Title should say Throw-out bearing aka Release bearing.
I have a 2010 5 speed Corolla CE. Having problems with their Throw-out bearings. At around 8000 miles the sqeaking/chirping noise of the bearing was too much so I brought in it to the dealer to fix. They agreed and made the repair.
Now it is only at 10000 miles (22000km) and I can hear it starting again. Just wondering if it is a common problem?
Noise comes and goes as the clutch pedal is released. If you push it in it will go away. It also will happen in all gears but easiest to hear in neutral.
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Been having trouble shifting into any gears on these chilly mornings in VA now... The clutch has been sticking on its way out when I release it and the gears don't want to engage unless I really push hard on the shift knob.
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I'm just over 45k miles, have a new mechatronics unit as of 39k, and I am beginning to see a new symptom for the first time since the replacement.... wondering if any of you have experienced this.
It's happened 2 or 3 times in the last couple weeks. The symptom suggests the clutch is not fully engaging. It is as if I had the clutch pedal in while in first gear, and I am feathering the clutch. This happens in "M" mode -- but I basically only drive in M so cannot say if it may happen in D or S.
Today, for example, I was at a red light on an incline. Light turns green, right foot off the brake and onto the throttle. Engine free spins up to nearly 4k and the car hold its position on the incline, without any movement or even a hint of movement. But there apparently was enough force going to the wheels to keep the car on the incline.
The engine does not rev as if it is in LC mode. It is free revving without any sound of it being under load.The clutches seem ok, this is not a clutch slippage problem. It's something occurring in the DSG's control.
I called my service advisor and he looked me up and said I have the latest and greatest MU, and my VIN does not qualify for the recent MU recall that is in the works. He said to just keep an eye on it for now (of course)
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Our 1999 CRV has had the clutch fail several times in the past year. The pattern is that you notice it slipping a bit now and then, but trending worse over a few days. Then it gets dramatically worse in a period of minutes: it does not engage fully when let out. The pedal feels fine, the engine is running fine, but power is not transmitted to the wheels.
On two occasions, we were able to take it directly and the mechanic resolved the problem with some adjustment to the master cylinder, or something like that (my wife spoke to the mechanic and it was many months ago).
Last winter, I was driving as the problem was recurring and I found myself nursing the slipping clutch up a steep one mile grade. At the top of the hill, totally flat ground, the problem continued to get worse for the next half mile, till there was no power at all! Engine fine, pedal action fine, but effectively the clutch was permanently disengaged. I left the car there over night. The next morning, before calling for a tow, I tried again and the clutch was working! I could tell it was still slipping a bit, but it was no problem to drive to the mechanic, who fixed the problem again for just a hundred bucks or so.
Yesterday, my wife again found that the clutch failed completely over the course of a few miles driving. She had to be towed. Today the mechanic says they can't reproduce the problem!
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Within the past 2 weeks I've been noticing that when I shift hard into 2nd and 3rd, I manage to grind the gears slightly. At first I thought that maybe I wasn't engaging the clutch fully but after enduring rush hour traffic in the hilly streets of SF yesterday, I noticed that I could replicate the grinding at a full stop with the clutch fully engaged which makes me think that maybe my clutch is going bad.
I'm a bit unsure since the car still pulls up the hills like a champ (maybe it could be pulling harder?) and need to point out tell tale signs to look for when your clutch is starting to fail and requires replacement.
If my problem is not due to clutch, what could it be? If it is, any good place in bay area to take the R? I plan to replace with stock set up.
Currently I have stock clutch w/ +73k miles. I did have an episode where a car transporter managed to make thick grey smoke pour from my clutch due to ineptitude so clutch failure would not surprise me.
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On my V6 2004 (just hit 120,000 kms, just changed the oils 2 weeks ago) I was driving on the hiway yesterday, when the whole vehicle started shaking and vibrating - engine light blinked a few times, then stayed ON solid.
I could reduce the shaking by letting go on the throttle pedal, so I stopped and checked, nothing obvious, oil level good etc. I could hear some sort of clunking noise when engine was revved up.
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My 01 GTi (12v VR6) was having some trouble shifting into, and out of, first and reverse so after a bit of research I decided to try adjusting the shift linkage as it seemed like a possible easy fix. After doing that I tried backing it up in the driveway and after a couple of shifts to different gears it ended up getting stuck in reverse. When I pushed in the clutch pedal to let it roll forward I noted that it seemed to be resisting rolling forward despite the steep incline. Once it reached a less steep incline it stopped rolling forward completely, so I'm thinking that it probably won't come out of gear because the clutch won't disengage all the way.
I've done some searching around and from what I've read so far it sounds like it could be a worn or damaged clutch fork, the hydraulic lines, master or slave cylinder, or even a broken clutch plate. What I don't want to do is pull the transmission and clutch, only to find that it was something much easier to fix.
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When I am stopped (at a red light, for example), the car wants to lurch when in 1st gear, even though I have the clutch pedal fully depressed. I know this is not a problem with the clutch master cylinder leaking by where you lose pressure on the pedal. Car has 245,000 miles and still has original clutch. Car/transmission work fine so long as I put it in neutral when I stop. Doesn't seem to do this w/reverse. Clutch also passes the "stall test" where you let it out in 4th gear with the hand brake on. What's going on here?
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I bought a 2010 Elantra Blue in November. It has 1200 miles on it now, but as early as the 2nd week or so I became aware that there is occasionally resistance shifting into 2nd gear despite the clutch being fully depressed. It can also make a slight "crunching" noise after passing through the neutral position and fully into 2nd (though this sound is distinct from grinding, it's not the same as if you were grinding the gears). I've tried a million times to narrow down the cause (i.e. cold weather, low RPM shifting, high RPM shifting, slow shifting, fast shifting, gentle shifting, strong shifting) but every time I think I got it, and have corrected it, it happens again anyways.
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