My 99 Passat is making a clicking sound from the fuse box, and the alarm light is blinking on and off repeatedly. My remote key no longer locks or unlocks the car. I took out fuse 38 and it stops making sound and stops the blinking, the fuse is not blown. Any clue on what to do. The other fuse for power locks and security look good also.
View 7 RepliesMy 03 expedition has a blinking air bag light. It blinks 4 times and then 2 times and repeats. I have googled this and found 42 = Primary Crash Sensor #2 Feed/Return Circuit - Open
How to fix this? Where to look, what to test, what the service manual says?
I just bought a 00 f150 4x4 with a 5.4 auto...it wouldn't start but not because something was wrong. it kept making a clicking sound and the theft light was one blinking...took my bronco to work and when I came home it started right up...I was thinking one of the keys didn't have the chip in it but it started with both keys....it doesn't have a key fob or keyless entry. I tried locking my drivers door with the key and unlock it...
View 6 RepliesSo I washed the car today, and when I was done I had the Parking Brake error. Now the button keeps blinking and the parking brake light on the dash keeps blinking too. I don't think the brake is actually engaged, but I am afraid of pushing the button now in case it locks up in "engaged mode". That way I can't drive to work tomorrow. I know this may just be the button, but driving around with this dinging sound and blinking lights is annoying.
View 8 RepliesWhere to find the fuse for the alarm flashing lights? It should be inside the dash, but I didn't find it.
View 2 RepliesI just drove my 2005 Hyundai Elantra from California to Pennsylvania without a problem. Once I arrived in Pennsylvania I took my car in for a state inspection. About 24 hours later my car alarm kept repeatedly going off. Eventually it stopped. When I tried to start the car it was dead. About 3 days later I had the car jumped. It ran fine. About 3 days later the car alarm randomly went off. I turned the alarm off and ran the car for 30 minutes and it was fine. About 24 hours later the car alarm randomly went off again. I turned it off and started the car. It ran fine. I checked the hood switches which was suggested in another post and they appear to be okay. There also doesn't appear to be any water around the battery.
What else could be causing this problem? Do you think the mechanic who performed the inspection could have hit something--my mother has had problems with them causing new problems after fixing old ones? Could it be the alternator? Could drastic temperature changes cause the problem--it does seem to happen when it goes from bitter cold to warmer, or is that just a coincidence?
So I've just come back from the 5th time visiting the dealership for them to clear the "CHECK ENGINE" light off of my dash. Each time they've told me that it is my gas cap....so on the 4th time I bought a brand new gas cap. This time the car drove for 478kms...then the light came on again. I know they are just gonna say EVAP (gas cap issue).
What is the next step? What else could be tripping this fault?
Still trying to track down my electrical issues. While poking around in the engine compartment near the fuse panel by firewall - i heard a clicking sound coming from the two cylinders near the fuse panel.
They are cylinders - side by side - about 1 1/2 inch wide and 2 inches tall - with electrical connections and either fuel or vacuum lines attached. What are these? Some sort of solenoids? Are they part of the EVAP system?
How long should they continue to "click" after the car is turned off? Mine kept going for a half hour. I then disconnected the left side battery and it stopped. 5 hours later after fully charging the battery I hooked it up again - and the clicking came back. Is this normal or could it be a source of my battery drain?.
I just changed my battery 2 months ago and all i heard this morning was CLICK CLICK CLICK and all the lights blinking on my dash. What would be the problem? Besides the battery being dead? It is not being charged i would say.
View 3 RepliesRecently purchased a 2004 Toyota Camry with only 58,000 miles on it. Only one problem has showed up - the "door open" indicator stays lit - does get brighter when an actual door is open and shows which door but never goes all the way out. Sometimes it gets slightly brighter and dimmer, back and forth.
Sporadically when I start the car there is an audible clicking (cycling) back and forth that sounds like a turn signal coming from the fuse panel to the left of the steering wheel. The only way I can get it to stop is by opening the door, closing again, open and close the locks, turn the engine on and off, etc.
Yesterday it continued while I was driving and eventually stopped on its own (and again today). Weird - I think it must be a fuse or a relay or something but I pulled all the fuses one by one and they all look good. Not sure where the relay is....The door open indicator never goes completely out though - sometimes it pulses all night long but doesn't seem to run the battery down or anything.
Our 2012 elantra gls with 112k miles on it decided to freak out yesterday.
Car wont turn over at all. there is also a clicking sound coming from the interior fuse block. I popped the hood and smelled sulfur. I put the volt meter to the battery and it shows 12.8 ish. I checked all the fuses and didn't find any blown. I also pulled the starter relay and tested it and it checked out.
Trying to turn the car over some times the dash light will flicker and the wipers will turn on by themselves. I also had a clicking sound coming from the fuse block under the hood. Interior lights come on but are dim and the parking light flicker a bit and fade. I downloaded the manual but am not sure what to look for at this point.
Just bought a jeep cherokee and it has power door locks. The previous owner stated that after a few days after replacing the fuse it blows. He did this a few times and every time the fuse blows for the power door locks.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2010 Kia Forte, which I purchased in late 2011. I had not had the car for very long when I noticed that the left, rear taillight was out. My husband replaced the bulb and it still did not work. This led me to the fuse panel. The fuse was blown so not only the taillight was out, but also the front, left, parking light. I replaced the fuse and the lights came back on. However, within days, the lights were out again. I have replaced the fuse two or three times since then, but each time it blows again within days, so mostly, I am driving around without a tail light. What could be causing the fuse to blow repeatedly?
View 8 RepliesI have a F450 that I bought a few months ago and have been having trouble with Fuse location 35 blowing. When I purchased the truck the 4x4, tow/haul, and reverse sensing system worked because I had to use it loading and unloading my boat this fall. Since then the snow fell and when I tried to put it into 4x4 I noticed it would not. I checked the passenger compartment fuse (loc. 35) and it was blown.
So I figured it was an easy fix, changed fuse, and it immediately blew again, and again. So then I started checking components related to fuse 35. First i checked the tow/haul switch in the shift lever and thought it was that, so I replaced it, and it still blew fuses. Next, I unplugged the reverse sensing systems and still blew the fuse. Next, I turned my attention to the transfer case shift motor. I replaced it and still blew fuse. So at this point I am stumped.
It is probably worth mentioning that when I replace the fuse initially and turn the key over, all systems work. I can switch the dash switch to 4x4 and it will shift, also the illumination light on the dash comes on. I can also toggle the tow/haul switch and the illumination light on the dash comes on as well. The reverse sensing system also works as well and the light in the switch works as well.
Now and important thing to note is that it seems to hold the fuse for a minute or more with the engine off/ key on, when I start the engine, it works briefly but then the fuse blows. I am not a service tech. by any means but am very comfortable under the hood and have a fairly good understanding of electrical components and their operation. It seems to me that somewhere in the circuit that there is a short to ground or a faulty component(module) or something completely different.
The fact that it takes a minute or so to blow the fuse as compared to an immediate blow when the key is cycled to power on. I would like to fix this myself as with anything I do, I like to educate myself through diagnosis/repair. The last piece of information with mentioning is that before I purchased the truck(30,000 miles ago) it had a factory reman engine installed at a ford dealer. If worse comes to worse I will have to take it to a Ford dealership for service but would like to keep it in house if I could!
The passenger side of my jeep accumulates water when it rains. (leaking Sunroof) I remove the water as soon as possible, however Lately it has developed problems starting. There is a clicking sound that is coming from under the glove compartment or maybe the fuse box in the same area. Is it possible that the fuse box could be causing the shortage and my next question is can this problem detected/ corrected, by rewiring entire box or damaged wires? I love my Black Beauty, very little problems and only 112, 000 miles.
View 4 Replies2002 f350 ext cab. Having an issue where my lights are blinking or flashing repeatedly while driving. Or whenever really. Truck running or not. Auto light switch in any position. I can hear what I believe to be the under dash circuit breaker clicking on and off. If I turn my light switch to the on position, breaker still clicks but lights remain steady. Where to start looking? Bad wire? Bad switch?
View 1 RepliesMy new Passat has the keyless locking system and ATA (anti Theift Alarm) and the ATA confirm is enabled . When I lock the doors the headlights flash but the horn alarm does not sound unless I lockthe doors twice. My 2014 Passat sel with the keylass lock system horn sounded when the doors were locked the first time. Also on the 2014 if the trunk is opened with the doors locked the horn would sound when the trunk lid is closed. This is not the case with the 2016.
I have been in contact with VW customer care. The rep has been trying to resolve the problem to no avail. VW is trying to tell me that due to consumer complaints the 2016 was changed to sound horn on the second locking.
This sounds like a copout to me when the ATA confirm can be disabled in the MFI settings.
Since i have owned my car the brake and ABS lights have been on (bought it like 2 months ago) i have a solid ABS light, and as long as the ebrake is down the brake light blinks.
Through searching I found that i most likely have a bad abs module. Before I take it out and send it to get repaired, i was wondering if there is anything else that i could check.
I also used VAGCOM to try and talk to the brakes and there is no response from the controller.
Wife's car won't start today. Just get clicking sound when I put the key in, and a random message about airbag defective, or steering lock defective. We tried jump starting, but no luck. Do we have to pay to get it towed to the dealer, or will should they take care of that? I guess the starter went out?
View 4 RepliesI have a 2007 prius and when I pass 30 miles per hr the slip indicator light start blinking and a beeping sound. What is going on and I have a vsc light on too
View 4 RepliesI got my AFS ballast replaced (dealer $480) and now the lights work, so no more worrying bout tickets! But sometimes the light won't turn on. Like 8/10 times it will but then it wont. The light is still blinking on the dash and now the lights won't level!
View 1 Replies