Passat (B5) :: Clicking Noise After 2 To 3 Minutes While Idling
May 16, 2007
When the engine is cold and I start it, everything is just perfect. After 2 to 3 minutes while idling I start hearing a clicking noise, which is not loud, but I don't like it. I'm sure that there was no noise before. I cannot locate the exact location but it is surely somewhere near the air filter. When I'm close to the front right wheel the noise is most clear and when I lean back behind the wheel.
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When I turn on the car, I let it idle for about 2-3 minutes and then I drive off. When I do, I notice that there is a clicking noise for about the first 10-15 minutes while i am pushing the gas pedal. After that it seems like it has been warmed up. My dealer said it could be the drivetrain or the exhaust....I dunno who or what to believe.
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What is that little motor shown in the still image (in focus at 22 seconds in the video) and why is it ticking? I noticed for the first time ever that it coincidentally wasn't ticking when I first tried shooting this video. After idling for a few minutes, it came on and started ticking away. Its much more noticeable when the engine idle is lower than in the video, and its more noticeable in person. The noise I am referring to is more pronounced later in the video at around 44 seconds when I go completely out of focus because I am putting the mic right next to it.
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Everything about my '08 2.7l Santa Fe seems/drives fine, but it always has a light clicking noise when idling and maybe even at higher revs. Is a little bit of this clicking normal or does the valve clearance need to be inspected and/or adjusted?
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I've noticed that when the Prius is shut off a few minutes later you hear a clicking noise from under the drivers seat. Sounds almost like a solenoid. It only happens when the car is shut down.
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When I leave my car running, i hear that it has extremely loud engine noise. Nothing dangerous or weird but just Loud idling. It's at 900 RMP. What causes it and how can I achieve a nice pleasant sound ..
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I have a 2000 Passat 1.8 T. When I initially start it up on a cold start I get this load "jet engine" noise which last approx. 2 to 3 minutes. Once the sound stops it sounds like a jet turning off his engines. I do have a check engine light on, but the car seems to work just fine otherwise. No power lose or other problems. What the heck is causing this noise?
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95 GMC Sonoma SLS 2.2L 5 speed distributorless ignitionStart cold, engine purrs, runs for 20-25 min, idling in drive, then dies as if you shut it off. All fluid levels correct. Will not restart until cools off. Have replaced: coils and ignition module, fuel pump and sending unit, ignition cylinder and ignition switch, oil pressure switch. Engine light does not come on. (bulb is not burnt, comes on when starting). Have checked all grounds.
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My car is idling at 1000 rpm for a few minutes when I start it, why? Just started a few days ago...
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So after getting my car back after 7 days. Was getting my Heater core replaced. I now hear a clicking noise from my fan. Doesn't matter if its hot or cold it makes this clicking noised from the Fan. It does it from Low to Mid but stops at high speeds.
What could it be? Here is a video of the sound. [URL] ....
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Having problem with 2016 Accent Sport (or other model) idling rough after smooth driving for about 20 or so minutes? It has started doing this about a month after being purchased. About 700 miles or so on it) When in stick mode it smooths out and purrs like a kitten, but back in automatic mode it idles rough, with Active Eco on and off. I have an appointment to take it in to the dealership 5/7, but I wanted to see what the cause was.
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I got an 88 celica convertible from my neighbor. This is a fixer upper. It needs a battery and an alternator. But i jumped it and after idling for 10 minutes, the temperature Gauge was almost in the red. Yes the radiator has water in it. Is it the thermostat? Or the head gasket?
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I have a 1995 Nissan Maxima that dies after sitting and idling for around ten minutes. It also has been dying at stoplights, etc. It runs fine if I get the rpms above 1000. When it dies it restarts but often I have to push the pedal to the floor for a few seconds, then it seems to catch and run as long at the rpms are up. I have taken it to a place and due to it's age they couldn't do a diagnostic check on it. I've had the exhaust system replaced (it needed it), the spark plugs replaced, the coolant temperature sensor replaced but still no luck.
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1998 Forester, 233,000 miles.. Two years ago it started running hot after 15 minutes of either driving or idling. Coolant seemed to vanish into thin air. The Subaru Dealership said that I either had a bad head gasket or a cracked cylinder wall. They said if the head gasket was bad then need to replace the head gaskets. They said if the cylinder wall was cracked, then we would need a new engine.
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2005 Excursion v10 137000 miles I am experiencing a rough idle only after the truck has been idling for a while 5+ min or so. On cold start warm start doesn't make a difference truck runs perfectly until it's been idling for a few min then starts a looping idle tach drops down to around 4-500 rpm motor sounds almost like a misfire I can press on the gas and it sputters up until it's running over 1200 rpm then smooths out and runs perfectly until it's allowed to idle for a few min then just repeats no codes are present no check engine light at all
I changed out plugs and coil packs at 100000 miles roughly year and a half ago (motorcraft parts) problem started just recently I have double checked all connections are good at plugs and at fuel injectors from what I've read up on from this forum it sounds like I could be experiencing an IAC issue or possibly an EGR issue I have checked all the rubber hoses associated with both systems and all are in good shape hold vacuum as they should are there any tests that I could perform on the IAC or the EGR to determine if it's one of those I'm trying to avoid throwing parts at it if possible, or is there anything else that I should be checking oh also cleaned the mass air flow a few days ago no changes
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2007 f150 5.4 supercrew, average temp for the last 2 weeks was -27. I plug the truck in all night it starts good and idles down fast engine is warm. no heat after idling for 3-5 min and then try to drive it takes another 5 min for the temp gauge to hit full temp 192. then my windows fog over even the dash and there is minimal heat coming out takes another 10-15 min to clear the windows. what the "F". fulid levels up, winter front on, block heater works, not using or smelling antifreeze, brush off every last speck of snow and I still have to pull over on the highway and wait......should have kept my 95 5.8l.
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Why is it that after 15 minutes of idling the coolant starts to boil up and spill and the car begins to overheat?
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Before I go buy a Bentley manual to dig around, when should my radiator fans kick on. I had the car idling for 10 minutes, no ac or heat on, and my coolant warning light came on, it overheated. It already has a new fan switch in the radiator, and the fuses are good.
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As the title states, my 1.8 liter manual will not start. No clicking noises, nothing. Once inside the car, the lights and the auto lock work, but the radio, auto trunk, auto gas hinge, windows and radio will not function. The radio says safe mode. I checked all of the fuses, and all are fine.
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I have 2 b6 passats. Both of them are rattle free except for this clicking noise that is all the time and loud from the glove box. It does it any time the car moves or hits a bump. If you put the slightest touch on the glove box, the noise stops. If you open the glove box, the noise is still there.
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I noticed a clicking noise while parking my car this weekend and looked to see that indeed my CV boots were torn and grease is everywhere. I know the easiest way to go is to replace the axle....
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