I have a 2001.5 passat and the check engine light turned on. It just so happens that whenever i put gas in the car.... and try to start it back up, it won't start! it takes about 3 or 4 tries for it to start up.
View 3 RepliesI always take care of my car oil changes on time. And in the last week my check engine light turned on for a few hours then turned off. And today it turned on again. I kinda regret getting rid of my scan gauge now.
View 11 RepliesBought an R32 yesterday. used of course.. was doing fine feels like a brand new clutch. got it from a ford dealership, and the check engine light just turned on. I will go back for the 14 day policy but i was wondering if it could be my clutch.
View 8 RepliesMy check engine light just turned on recently. Just hit 115K miles on my SC430 a few weeks ago. Is there a service that I'm missing? Running absolutely fine, oil change recently as well.
View 14 RepliesThis morning, I tried to start the 2003 Prius and got a 'check engine' light and nothing. The cabin lights were bright so the 12V looked OK. After three tries, I used the VOM and measured 12.55 V on the battery. But the traction battery level looked unusually low.
So I tried again and it started. Using the ScanGauge, no codes were displayed. So I turned the car off and on three times and cleared the "check engine" light. Then I connected the Auto Ingenuity and read out:
P1636 - HV ECU Malfunction on the HV ECU to ECM bus.
C1213 - HV ECU Communication Circuit Malfunction between HV ECU and Brake ECU
P3002 - HV ECU Communication Malfunction on the HV ECU to Battery ECU
So it looks like there was an HV ECU problem that 'cleared while testing.' Certainly it makes sense to inspect the HV ECU connectors and re-seat them and clean out any debris.
My 2005 Prius has 105,000 miles. The check engine light came on for the first time ever. Dealer will diagnose tomorrow. If it's the main battery, should I sell it?
View 3 RepliesMy check engine light went off last month and when I had it looked at my dealership they said it was due to the seal where the gas cap locks into I believe. Anyway, a week later my light went off again and now they are saying it is the charcoal cannister which I found out is very expensive. Here are my two questions. First of all, can I get this part replaced and installed at a non-dealership? My second question is since they reset my check engine light, it came back on a few days later for two days and then turned off completely. Should the light have turned off on its own? Should I be concerned that it is no longer on? It just makes me wonder if they diagnosed this issue correctly or not.
View 7 RepliesMy check engine light came on at 102,000 miles. The dealer service dept. says that the diagnostic showed no clear cause(?)but I need new spark plugs ($240),ejectors cleaned, and of course the cost of the diagnostic ($130) The total was around $475. Am I being ripped?? My big question is what will they do to get the light out?? Should I disconnect the battery and reset the clock and radio buttons to see if it goes out? Then I can worry again if it comes back on.
View 30 RepliesI have a Hyundai Elantra 2007 with 123,000 miles on it. Three weeks ago the engine About two weeks ago the engine light turned on. I took it into an auto parts store so they could use the digital code reader, it said the upstream O2 sensor needed to be replaced. I replace it and still have bad gas mileage, the second time I had it read with the code read it said both of the O2 sensors were bad so I replaced the downstream one week later. There was still bad gas mileage and the code reader still said it was both of the O2 sensors, the auto part's representative said when the engine light is on that the computer turns off the O2 sensors so he recommended to erase the codes on my car with the code reader (I pushed the button and he looked away). Still nothing changed so I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery to restart the computer. Still horrible gas mileage with no engine light anymore. Gas mileage averages about 15 mpgs in city and 32-35 on the highway. The highway seems about right but I've never seen any mpg below 30 for city mpg before this problem. I also cleaned the mass air flow sensor with mass air flow cleaner after dealing with the O2 sensor. All preventive maintenance is kept up by me and I have had no problems with this car before. Water pump replacement, timing belt replacement, and transmission flush have occurred in the last ~50,000 miles.
View 19 RepliesMy mother in-law has a 94 Chrysler LHS, 3.5 V6, auto, 66k. Yesterday she was driving home and said the check engine light was on. I went to check it out and the light was not on. The light come on when the key is turned on but goes out when it is started. This is not an OBD-2 car it has a little blue plug and i do not have a code reader for it. Took it to auto zone and they do not have a code reader for this car. Auto Zone and Pep Boys both told me that if the light is off there will not be a code. Further checking on the internet I found out you can get a two digit code by turning the key on and off and count the flashing check engine light. It worked I got code 12 and 51. 51 means lean O2 sensor. If this is true that why does the CEL not stay on. How can I test the O2 sensors?
View 2 RepliesCheck engine light issue. For the past 3 months, my check engine light has been turning on. The first time it happened, the garage replaced the EVAP Purge Solenoid (which includes the vapor can purge solenoid and the EVAP canister purge solenoid). Of course, a few months later, the check engine light turned on again. The second time, the garage replaced the gas cap. Then the check engine light turned on again the next day.
So, the third time, the garage performed maintenance/repair on the vapor can purge solenoid and the EVAP canister purge solenoid. Of course, three days after driving my car, the check engine light turned back on. I've contacted the garage for the fourth time now. I explained that their diagnostics have obviously been exhausted, and they aren't really sure what the problem is. I'm going back in a few days to speak to the lead mechanic hoping to be compensated for their guess-work or at the least to be given an honest "I don't know" answer.
I have a 2001 Ford F-150 v6 2wd. A few weeks ago, the check engine light turned on so I drove to the nearest autozone to hook up their computer and see what the error code was. The technician gave me the code (I don't remember it off the top of my head but it wasn't something imminent). Before leaving, I asked him if he could clear the light, figuring that if it didn't come back on after 50 miles, that it might have just been a fluke with one of the truck's sensors. Later that day, I realized that when I started the truck, the check engine light was no longer turning on momentarily the way that all the dashboard lights do to tell you that they're working.
I went back to a different autozone (one closer to my house) and explained the situation. They checked the computer for codes again and found none and said that the light must not be turning on because the bulb is burned out. I find this to be a striking coincidence that the bulb should happen to blow out exactly when the technician used his computer to clear the light. Is it possible that he did something with his computer that permanently disabled the check engine light? It's been a few weeks and I've since bought an inexpensive bluetooth code reader of my own, hooked it up, and found that there is still no active code. Is it possible that the code has returned or will return, but that I won't have a way to know because something he did suppressed not just the light but my car's code reporting mechanism?
For now, the truck drives fine, but I'm afraid to travel long distances when there might be a problem I don't know about.
I have a 2007 Saturn vue hybrid that has the check engine light on-the code says POAC. I can't find anything on the Internet what this code means. I'd like to fix it myself instead of bringing it to a dealer and getting charged big bucks! What this code means?
View 3 RepliesI love my car 2012 Hyundai Accent GLS but once it hit 60K miles, the engine light came on and it has been eating gas. I get up to 160 miles per tank now. My MP fluctuates from 12-25 MPG. I literally watch it jump when I fill up the car, then a few miles later, it drops again. Code P2196 always comes up. (stuck rich)
Dealer advised me to do fuel system flush.
Dealer replaced upstream o2 Sensor
Dealer replaced Check Valve
New Spark Plugs last Fall due to hearing really loud spark knocking... and also re-gapped last week. Now I can hear them slightly again.
Engine light just came back on after almost 200 miles.
Reading some other threads- apparently this seems to be a known issue for my car.
I am wondering if I should try replacing the downstream o2 sensor.... OR consider trading my car.
While on my 20 mile commute my check engine light turned on, attached the code reader to the car and got codes P0422 and U0D00. Looked up the P0422 code to find "Caralyst efficiency below normal (bank 1)" I have a list of possible fixes but have no luck finding out about the U0D00 code. I notice I lose and a quart of oil every month and when I start the car, the first 5 seconds or so the engine revs to 4000 rpm.
View 1 RepliesThis morning I started my 2008 Prius (approx. 31k miles) and found the big red triangle with an exclamation mark and check engine light turned on.
I drove my car <1 mile to a smog check station where they ran a diagnostic on it and came back with the P0A9C code.
A quick internet search turns up that this is "HYBRID BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR "A" RANGE/PERFORMANCE."
2002 F350 7.3 PSD. 192k miles.
From my understanding, a CEL is supposed to illuminate each time you turn the ignition ON as part of normal startup procedure.
I figured the previous owner must have pulled out the bulb to hide the fact that the truck had a few "issues" before selling it, so today I pulled out the gauge cluster and it looked as if the CEL bulb was a tiny LED soldered directly into the gauge cluster itself. There were a few serviceable/removable bulbs for things like turn signal indicators, high-beam etc... but the CEL did not have a serviceable/removable bulb.
I've been driving this truck and working through it's "issues" and fixing things as I go, but it keeps throwing codes without the CEL illuminating. What's going on here?
I thought the check-engine-light was supposed to illuminate each time the ignition was turned on, and that it would come on each and every time the vehicle registered a fault code in the ECU/PCM.
Drove fairly fast (160km/hr or 100 miles/hr) then took an exit down a ramp and had to stop at a red light. Noticed all of a sudden that the engine was running bit rougher and then noticed the yellow engine light blinking. I know to turn off the engine immediately when this occurs but then all of a sudden engine light turned off and car was running smooth again.
Car has been reliable for 7 years - proper maintained, synthetic oil, 171000km, timing belt changed, burns very little oil, good torque. Should I have it checked by the dealer (fantastic fair vw dealer)?
I have a 2000 1.8t and I was on my way home from work, sitting at a traffic light and my rpms went up to 1200-1500 and then my check engine light came on.
View 7 RepliesMy check engine light has been on for 3 days i get my appointment with VW and then today i start it up and it goes off. Also, having a problem with very loud squeaking coming from the front bottom left of the engine ?
View 17 RepliesI was running late the other day for work so I had to jump in my car and go with out letting it run first for a minute or two and while on the highway the engine light came on and it has not turned off yet. I am getting my oil changed at my local shop on tuesday.
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