Passat (B5) :: Check Engine Light Came On - How To Get Diagnostic
Dec 7, 2011
Ok, recently my check engine light came on and i read the code with a cheap-o scanner. It read an o2 sensor code (up stream) i then read it again with a scanner that advanced auto parts offers for use, and it read p 1138 i think. I looked the code up on line and it was a fuel lean bank 1 or something like that. All the info i found sugests a smoke test of the vacumm system. I fist did a visual check of the hoses and also a few burst of carb cleaner and listened for the idle to raise but got no results. I also changed the o2 sensor for good measure, is there anything else i can try before i shell out the cash for a full diagnostic.
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I need to get my 2002 Toyota Prius inspected. The Warning/check engine light came on so I ran a diagnostic (OBDII) on it and came up with P3006 Fuel Air Metering Auxillary Emission controls. What does this mean? Previously codes indicating cylinder misfire came up but those cleared.
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I have a 2000 1.8t and I was on my way home from work, sitting at a traffic light and my rpms went up to 1200-1500 and then my check engine light came on.
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My check engine light has been on for 3 days i get my appointment with VW and then today i start it up and it goes off. Also, having a problem with very loud squeaking coming from the front bottom left of the engine ?
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I was running late the other day for work so I had to jump in my car and go with out letting it run first for a minute or two and while on the highway the engine light came on and it has not turned off yet. I am getting my oil changed at my local shop on tuesday.
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Okay, I bought this car used and the previous owner apparently didn't maintain it. So I spent the last couple months having a new (used) engine installed. All said it's been in the shop longer (by twice) than I've been driving it. On the way home from the mechanic the check engine light came on.
If I keep changing my oil every 2000 miles will it sludge again? Dealer recommended every 1500 to 2000 miles! I've spent 15k on this car so far, and driven it about 2k miles......
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Got in the car this morning and started it up. Other than it being -6 degrees out, nothing unusual. The damn check engine light came on. Nothing seemed unusual driving it. Will be checking it tomorrow.
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I have a 2001.5 passat and the check engine light turned on. It just so happens that whenever i put gas in the car.... and try to start it back up, it won't start! it takes about 3 or 4 tries for it to start up.
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I recently got my 40k service done at a VW dealership. This morning, my check engine light came on.
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I have a 2003 W8 and the check engine light came on today for the cam b sensor... The car has had no problems and drives fine, I do not quite get why all the sudden it is on, and before I bought the car, 2000 miles ago the cam sensor was replaced for inspection, and I drove it for 1000 miles, and now the mil is on and it is running a little ruff... Where exactly on the head is it located? which head would have cam b sensor? I really do not think it is bad again.
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I have had a check engine light on in my car for a while now. I am pretty sure that it deals with the disconnection of the vacuum servo that controls the intake manifold's flaps that designate which track the air takes through the manifold. It has been running fine like this for a while under the assumption that because the performance of the vehicle hasn't changed, there is no need for immediate repair.
Here is my new problem which I am trying to determine if it has to do with the above issue. Over the past few days my car has been giving me EPC and ASR lights along with switching to back-up power. I have been on expressways driving 80, i have been going around corners doing less than 20, and it has happened everywhere in between. Keep in mind that when it happens i slip my car into neutral, pull over, and reboot. After that everything is fine for a short while. I stopped at Auto Zone to get a diagnostic, and for some reason, which i did not feel like questioning due to the way the autozone employee was mentally equipped, they did not give me codes, but descriptions.
(1) Camshaft Positioning Sensor Fault A Bank 1
(2) Camshaft Positioning Sensor Fault A Bank 2
(3) PCM Processor Fault
(4) Running too lean on Bank 1
(5) Running too lean on bank 2.
These are the descriptions for the 5 fault codes. I am planning on stopping back today and getting the proper codes. But would like to get some opinions in the mean time. I've check fuses and relays pertaining to this issue and all have tested ok. Nothing is leaking from my engine and nothing is visibly damaged, except for the vacuum servo arm which is broken (see above paragraph). I feel like the issue is with the ECM (PCM, PCM, ECU, whatever).
Another interesting thing is that when i operate my car using the cruise control, there are no issues what so ever. Possibly an issue with the throttle or its many components?
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After I finally got around to replacing my ABS pump I went to get my smog check done. Passed except I didn't drive enough miles to qualify.The SMOG tech told me to drive 150 miles and come back. I drive the 150 plus miles and within that time my check engine light comes on. I go to the shop and have it reset.
How many miles do I have to drive the car after a Check Engine Light reset in order to qualify for a Cali SMOG Check.
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I have taken my car into service twice because of the check engine light being on. They fix it and say it has something to do with the intake. It is now on for a third time. Obviously they are not fixing the problem. BTW, I have done no modifications to my car.
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How do you reset the CE light on a 99 passat?
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I had a check engine light pop up and I went and got it checked out. Comes to be its a IAT sensor or bad connection with this sensor. I change the sensor and made sure the wires on it is all good. The question is, I still have the check engine light up, does the code need to be deleted? And what happens if the code gets deleted and problem is not fixed?
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So I've just come back from the 5th time visiting the dealership for them to clear the "CHECK ENGINE" light off of my dash. Each time they've told me that it is my gas cap....so on the 4th time I bought a brand new gas cap. This time the car drove for 478kms...then the light came on again. I know they are just gonna say EVAP (gas cap issue).
What is the next step? What else could be tripping this fault?
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My MIL light came on today for some reason. The owner's manual mentions it may be tied to an emissions problem. I just purchased this car a few months ago and had the oil changed two days ago for the first time. Could there be any connection? What are the most common reasons for the light coming on? I know with other types of cars, that light could mean one of many different things.
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Alright so my mothers car is a 2000 passat 30v v6 5 speed and the check engine light will come on and off at random times. I had the codes checked yesterday and one was for the Mass air flow sensor and the other was for the "heated" oxygen sensor but what confuses me is that the light will shut off then turn back on a day later. I have to get this car through emissions for her and cant with the CEL
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So we were getting the annoying check engine light pretty religiously when we got to a half tank or less of fuel. In the trouble shooting I guess maybe there was a bad ground or something that required a little work then they told us the the intake flap motor was bad. Or at least was not returning the correct values.
So they ordered a new one and replaced it on Friday. I was looking at the paperwork, seemed like a fun job, pull the intake manifold, replace the part, put back together.
In the end, the experience with Emich VW in Denver was great. The service writer was awesome and you can even pick a tech to work on your car. I think that's a fine idea.
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Got a check engine light, whoever scanned it said something about a secondary air intake? Upon searching, I found a post about a bad MAF.
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I'll try to break this down as best I can. I went to my mechanic this am with a check engine light. My suspicion is 02 sensors. This was confirmed as a problem area, but separate they said I had a spuratic misfire in cylinder 4. With that info, i pulled the plug to inspect (I had just installed new ngks in it and they have 18,000K on em.
I put beldon wires on about 8k ago.) plug looked to be normal, but there was definitely a puddle of oil from the valve cover leaking. Oil went into the cylinder head but I didn't really think that was an issue. Nothing abnormal jumped out at me so I reinstalled plug and checked all wire connections at both ends and called it a day.
Then I drove it. Check engine light flashing. Major performance stutters, etc. I drove it for about 20 miles and hoped it was just the oil raising hell in there and it would burn off eventually. It hasn't gone away yet. Maybe coil pack. Can the single portions of that pack be replaced, all i see them sell is the full three as a unit.
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