Passat (B5) :: Check Engine Light On - Combination Valve?
Dec 4, 2008
I brought my 2004 Passat 1.8 in for check engine light-- After checking several things and test driving the car they said the finally found the problem-- the "combinations valve" I searched the forum and below was all I found this under that word combo-- is that the only "combination valve"? This is not something I've heard about before-- are they just saying perhaps 2 different valves?
" Turbocharging System, Overview"
For brake booster
10 - Air filter with Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor - G70 -
11 - Pressure control valve for crankshaft housing ventilation
12 - Combination valve
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I have a loud rattling coming from my combi valve mainly when I start it up in the morning along with a strong sweet smell. The noise slowly decreases. 2002 Passat 1.8T....
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I only have 2200 miles on my new 2012 Passat SE V6 and the check engine light came on the other morning. I took it in to the dealer and they found codes P0442 (EVAP Emission Control System Small Leak Detected) and P0456 (EVAP Emission Control System Very Small Leak Detected). The tech says on the work order that he removed and tested the EVAP Purge Valve with a vacuum pump and the valve would not hold a vacuum. The dealer replaced the EVAP Purge Valve under warranty. They say this is the first 2012 passat V6 they've seen with this issue. I've only had the car for 4 weeks.
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So the day before my 20,000 mile service was scheduled my check engine light came on. I took the car into the dealer and told them the light was on. When I got the call that the car was done they said that the EGR valve was bad and they ordered me another one. They said that they cleared the code and that the part would be in this week. Since they cleared the light it has not come back on. My question is did I lose my Revo stage one tune in my TDI? The dealer never said anything so I didn't want to ask if they had reset my ECU.
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So sometime last week my check engine light came on. Took my 13 Accent to the dealership and they said the purge valve is to be replaced. Now my Accent pings when running 87 gas and I read that others (not necessarily Accent owners) who changed their purge valve noticed the pinging go away.
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My wifes 2008 prius check engine light just came on. Its the control valve sensor. My question is, does that have any serious impact on safety? I've heard mixed on what this valve does (overheating etc).
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I have a 2009 Prius and the check engine light came on last week. I decided to take it to a highly recommended auto repair shop instead of the dealer. The error cord was P1121 and they replaced some kind of coolant control valve. When I went to take the car home I noticed the check engine light was still on and they said there was another similar but different coolant valve that needed to be replaced. They replaced the other part and everything seemed fine.
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2007 Chrysler Town & Country with 74K. The check engine light comes on and the parts store diagnostic says P0404, a clogged EGR valve. On my model, replacing the EGR valve involves taking out the alternator, which involves removing the passenger wheel. That's beyond my skill set.
So, can I just replace the EGR tube and pour some Sea Foam motor treatment directly into the EGR? Would that hurt anything?
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Our 2008 Equinox with roughly 90K miles showed the "service stabilitrack" warning on a Friday, next day light was still there now paired up with "check engine" light. My husband did something to the "stabilitrack" button which made both lights go away for a couple of days. Then both of these returned. Took the vehicle to the dealer (we always do for service, we just don't know some good mechanics in our area and so far we had not had any major issues with the vehicle).
They tell my husband it is the EGR valve that supposedly needs replacement and that the reason it got to be bad is because we failed to maintain / clean the fuel injectors so those need to be washed / cleaned / serviced too so that the whole issue is resolved. No mention about the "stabilitrack" thing at all. Due to our needs of the vehicle and our lack of cars knowledge we agreed to it without looking into it further.. Lights have been off since that and we didn't think much of it.
But then this weekend we got this "recall" letter in the mail for that very same vehicle... talking about the "check engine light" being the issue and an apparent leak of gasoline (via odor or visual leak)... Maybe these are totally unrelated ...
I checked the manual for the recommended maintenance and nowhere there is mention of regular maintenance needed for the fuel injectors.. I looked online and while there seems to be varied opinions most of them agree that is something not needed; neither it is the EGR valve replacement... so now I am really wondering! Was it all for nothing? And how is one supposed to know this. Is the "check engine" light enough of an issue to maybe think this was the right thing to do?
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I purchased a build Dec 05 1.3l Yaris several months ago. I recently started to get a check engine light, so I did a scan of the computer and it returned a P0012 error. Though multiple searches, I learned that this is likely due to the Camshaft Timing Control Valve Assembly or possibly the OCV filter.
Further searches haven't been able to reveal which parts I need to purchase to replace these items. I can only find details for the 1.5l engine.
The engine is: 2nz-fe, model: ncp90r-agmrkq
1. I don't even know where these parts are located on the car?
2. What part numbers do I need to purchase to replace?
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My check engine light was throwing the code P1121 for the coolant flow valve. Toyota replaced it under a warranty enhancement (I have 134k on it), and since then my mpgs have gone from 46 to 50.
My AC is working much better now, too. My theory is that the valve can be in a semi-failure mode for a long time before throwing a code. Now that My coolant is flowing the way that it should, heat is being dissipated more efficiently.
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1996 izusu rodeo had check engine light on got code for egr valve. Replaced it light when out drove fine all day. Stopped at grocery store came back out would not start ... Will crank over but will not start. did a obg (two) scan get a p1640 output A circuit fault code along with a 1460 egr code ....
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My 2001 Buick Lasebre is not starting properly. I have to pump the gas several times before it will start; then when it is started at low speeds or idle it wants to stall. As long as I can some how keep pushing the gas peddle it wont stall. On the other hand when I am driving at higher speeds, anything above 40 or so it runs perfect. The check engine light was on and shows EGR valve stuck open. I have replaced the Mass airflow sensor, fuel filter, and the EGR valve. I had the code cleared and a short while later my check engine light came back on with the exact same reading. I bought this car only a week ago and was not expecting to have to fix a car I just bought and ran fine while test driving it. I have read may different forum that say that it could be anything from my fuel pump to vacuum hoses, to some other sensor.
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I bought the little car to get off my motorcycle and its done great. But, after a couple trips around town my check engine light came on, and I imiditely noticed a change in my idle and engine performance. Im assuming my engine changed the air/fuel ratio to account for the sensor indications. My initial code read came back with four codes which said something about spark, and O2 sensor, and emissions. I went ahead put new spark plugs, gaped them as well as replaced the first O2 sensor.
After that I reconnected my battery and sure enough no engine light and my idle felt even better than before. (by the way my old plugs looked normal) But shortly down the road the light came on again. My idle did become a little different but not like my first encounter with the engine light. My power too seems a bit degraded, as well as the engine's sound. As of right now I am only reading one code P0422, which I do not see in the manual. I read online that its probably my catalytic converter or my engine is running at an improper air/fuel ratio. I am praying that it is not my catalytic converter and just my engine computer throwing things off.
Other things which may serve as clues:
Slight valve cover gasket leak (I will change the gasket when I do my timing belt job along with other seal and probably the water pump)
When pumping gas I can get about 90 cents in at a time, now more like 40 cents since the Saudis lowered our gas prices. Assuming I've got some kind of venting problem.
Car has 107K manual shift.
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I have an 2002 Volkswagen GTi 337 edition with the 1.8t engine in it. My check engine light came on so I went to my local autozone to check the code and that's what code it threw on the ODBII sensor. It says my problem could be a "failed clutch vacuum vent valve switch". It also revs about 100-200 rpms extra in between shifts and I'm not a mechanic but know a little about cars. I just don't know if I should replace the OEM clutch safety switch or what I should do about this.
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The check engine light came on yesterday. 2004 with 115K. Auto Zone read the codes and they are as follows:
Definition:
Idle Air Control Valve control circuit.
Probable Cause:
Open or short circuit condition.
Poor Electrical Connection
Failed IAC motor
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I have the bsh pcv fix and since the valve in the breather was making that noise, I busted the valve out.
Now I think I have a small boost leak somewhere and would like to pressurize the system but what do I use to block off the breather tube now that the check valve is gone?
I hear a little horn like toot sound around 5psi. Almost like letting a balloon full of air fly around letting the air out. How to describe it. Pretty sure it's a leak.
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I have a 2000 1.8t and I was on my way home from work, sitting at a traffic light and my rpms went up to 1200-1500 and then my check engine light came on.
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My check engine light has been on for 3 days i get my appointment with VW and then today i start it up and it goes off. Also, having a problem with very loud squeaking coming from the front bottom left of the engine ?
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I was running late the other day for work so I had to jump in my car and go with out letting it run first for a minute or two and while on the highway the engine light came on and it has not turned off yet. I am getting my oil changed at my local shop on tuesday.
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Okay, I bought this car used and the previous owner apparently didn't maintain it. So I spent the last couple months having a new (used) engine installed. All said it's been in the shop longer (by twice) than I've been driving it. On the way home from the mechanic the check engine light came on.
If I keep changing my oil every 2000 miles will it sludge again? Dealer recommended every 1500 to 2000 miles! I've spent 15k on this car so far, and driven it about 2k miles......
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