Passat (B5) :: Check Engine Light On - Stuttering When Step On Gas In Early Gears
Jul 6, 2009
I'm sure it's something worse, because I've had very bad luck with my 02 Volkswagen Passat. Since last Wednesday, my car has been stuttering when I step on the gas in the early gears but when you get to about 30-40mph it runs fine with an occasional light stutter. Saturday the check engine light came on, then went off. Yesterday it came on while on the highway and has not shut off yet.
My VW has 105K miles on it and hasn't had a tune up since 50K. Does it need a tune up or isn't it something else if the check engine light comes on? If it is a tune up, is it possible to do it yourself? I don't really tinker with engines much, but I like to think I can be somewhat handy. I've changed my brakes and rotars, headlights and other things. Is it just spark plugs, oil and air filters?
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I have a 2006 f250 5.4 4wd with 5r110w trans. Check engine light was blinking and then one day the tranny just stopped working in all gears. Engine code p0751 came up, shift solenoid "A". Changed it, code went away and still no gears. Checked pump pressure, good in all gears, all I can think of now is TCM....
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Drove a new 1.8T VW Passat last night. 170hp/184ftpd torque. Huge difference! My Camry feels totally underpowered now. Also the transmission seems to shift into high gears way too early. Had reprogram recall done and shifting was better for a little while but now is back to being the same as before.
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I have an APR Stage 1 flash done about 3 months ago and I absolutely love it and never had any issues.
I always leave my car in program two which is the 93 octane. I was driving home yesterday and when I was in the higher gears and accelerating in like 3rd or 4th and got the rpms up to 3500 to 4000 the car would stutter pretty hard. At one point it stuttered like 3 times in a row and then the check engine light blinked about 10 times and went away. When I got home I put the car back into stock mode and tried the same thing, but it ran smoothly with no issues.
Experienced this with the APR stage one flash. I'm thinking maybe it could be bad gas or the program didn't get set correctly, but not sure. I am going to put it back into the 93 program today and see if it still does the same thing.
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I have a 2007 Manual drive Hyundai Elantra with 98,000 miles on it. Prior to going to Valvoline (who I know are not the best oil change places) if I was parked with foot on clutch and brake there was a tinny noise coming from the engine. I was going to have it checked out.
Fast forward I had my oil changed at Valvoline on Saturday (2 days ago) since then when parked with foot on clutch and brake the car begins to make a stuttering/shuttering noise and is shaking a bit (in time). In addition when I shift gears and go faster there is a wheezing noise.
I assume I need to bring this back to Valvoline? Is there anything that they could have done during the oil change that would cause this issue?I didn't get the air filter but it wasn't that horrible. They of course said I should get the radiator flush and the transmission flush.
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I have experienced an odd behavior once today & once yesterday, while driving my 2007 BMW X3 3.0. Each time, I was RAPIDLY pulling onto a busy street, from a side street...I accelerated fairly aggressively from the intersection, moving across lanes of oncoming traffic and into the main traffic lanes on the far side. My SUV was driving without any issues up until that point. As i accelerated, the car began to stutter (shudder?), and the 'Service Engine Soon" light came on instantly. The car continued to drive, but struggled to maintain speed/acceleration. I pulled over to a full stop as soon as I could, and turned the engine off. After a couple of minutes, I turned the car back on, and the diagnostic light was no longer on, and the car resumed driving normally as before. Why this sudden acceleration is causing the Service Engine light to come on, and this odd driving behavior?
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I was driving on freeway today and the car start to stutter sounds like it's not getting gas the engine light to blink, so quickly exit the freeway and pull over the parking lot, turn the car off. Scan the car I got 5 codes all misfire 1,3 and 4 cylinder miss fire, I try to start the car it would crank but and try to run but if would die quickly sound like the car is not getting gas. Just wondering if fuel pump going bad.
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I have a 2000 1.8t and I was on my way home from work, sitting at a traffic light and my rpms went up to 1200-1500 and then my check engine light came on.
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My check engine light has been on for 3 days i get my appointment with VW and then today i start it up and it goes off. Also, having a problem with very loud squeaking coming from the front bottom left of the engine ?
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I was running late the other day for work so I had to jump in my car and go with out letting it run first for a minute or two and while on the highway the engine light came on and it has not turned off yet. I am getting my oil changed at my local shop on tuesday.
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Okay, I bought this car used and the previous owner apparently didn't maintain it. So I spent the last couple months having a new (used) engine installed. All said it's been in the shop longer (by twice) than I've been driving it. On the way home from the mechanic the check engine light came on.
If I keep changing my oil every 2000 miles will it sludge again? Dealer recommended every 1500 to 2000 miles! I've spent 15k on this car so far, and driven it about 2k miles......
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Got in the car this morning and started it up. Other than it being -6 degrees out, nothing unusual. The damn check engine light came on. Nothing seemed unusual driving it. Will be checking it tomorrow.
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I have a 2001.5 passat and the check engine light turned on. It just so happens that whenever i put gas in the car.... and try to start it back up, it won't start! it takes about 3 or 4 tries for it to start up.
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I recently got my 40k service done at a VW dealership. This morning, my check engine light came on.
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I have a 2003 W8 and the check engine light came on today for the cam b sensor... The car has had no problems and drives fine, I do not quite get why all the sudden it is on, and before I bought the car, 2000 miles ago the cam sensor was replaced for inspection, and I drove it for 1000 miles, and now the mil is on and it is running a little ruff... Where exactly on the head is it located? which head would have cam b sensor? I really do not think it is bad again.
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I have had a check engine light on in my car for a while now. I am pretty sure that it deals with the disconnection of the vacuum servo that controls the intake manifold's flaps that designate which track the air takes through the manifold. It has been running fine like this for a while under the assumption that because the performance of the vehicle hasn't changed, there is no need for immediate repair.
Here is my new problem which I am trying to determine if it has to do with the above issue. Over the past few days my car has been giving me EPC and ASR lights along with switching to back-up power. I have been on expressways driving 80, i have been going around corners doing less than 20, and it has happened everywhere in between. Keep in mind that when it happens i slip my car into neutral, pull over, and reboot. After that everything is fine for a short while. I stopped at Auto Zone to get a diagnostic, and for some reason, which i did not feel like questioning due to the way the autozone employee was mentally equipped, they did not give me codes, but descriptions.
(1) Camshaft Positioning Sensor Fault A Bank 1
(2) Camshaft Positioning Sensor Fault A Bank 2
(3) PCM Processor Fault
(4) Running too lean on Bank 1
(5) Running too lean on bank 2.
These are the descriptions for the 5 fault codes. I am planning on stopping back today and getting the proper codes. But would like to get some opinions in the mean time. I've check fuses and relays pertaining to this issue and all have tested ok. Nothing is leaking from my engine and nothing is visibly damaged, except for the vacuum servo arm which is broken (see above paragraph). I feel like the issue is with the ECM (PCM, PCM, ECU, whatever).
Another interesting thing is that when i operate my car using the cruise control, there are no issues what so ever. Possibly an issue with the throttle or its many components?
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After I finally got around to replacing my ABS pump I went to get my smog check done. Passed except I didn't drive enough miles to qualify.The SMOG tech told me to drive 150 miles and come back. I drive the 150 plus miles and within that time my check engine light comes on. I go to the shop and have it reset.
How many miles do I have to drive the car after a Check Engine Light reset in order to qualify for a Cali SMOG Check.
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I have taken my car into service twice because of the check engine light being on. They fix it and say it has something to do with the intake. It is now on for a third time. Obviously they are not fixing the problem. BTW, I have done no modifications to my car.
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How do you reset the CE light on a 99 passat?
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Ok, recently my check engine light came on and i read the code with a cheap-o scanner. It read an o2 sensor code (up stream) i then read it again with a scanner that advanced auto parts offers for use, and it read p 1138 i think. I looked the code up on line and it was a fuel lean bank 1 or something like that. All the info i found sugests a smoke test of the vacumm system. I fist did a visual check of the hoses and also a few burst of carb cleaner and listened for the idle to raise but got no results. I also changed the o2 sensor for good measure, is there anything else i can try before i shell out the cash for a full diagnostic.
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I had a check engine light pop up and I went and got it checked out. Comes to be its a IAT sensor or bad connection with this sensor. I change the sensor and made sure the wires on it is all good. The question is, I still have the check engine light up, does the code need to be deleted? And what happens if the code gets deleted and problem is not fixed?
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