Passat (B5) :: Changing Sway Bar - Can't Get The Bolt Out
May 10, 2012
I did change my motor mounts this weekend but when I tried to remove the sway bar,one of the nuts jammed on the bolt. Let me explain:The nut unscrewed well until the lasts mm, and then, the bolt head came loose, so it was spining freely with no way to remove it but cutting it, the bolt seems to be BUILT IN the alum. bracket that supports the engine mount. Question: can I change this bolt or is it really built in the bracket? I searched on ETKA but it just shows the nut and I can't find the bolt that I need.
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Car: 02 Passat GLX 4motion V6 AWD
I'm in process of replacing the rear strut and I can't remove the way bar link bolt out. It is really tight into the inner rubber and it won't buzz. The bolt sits in a way that I can't use a hammer.
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I changed the Passenger side with no problem , the driver side bolt is hitting the transmission oil pan. I am thinking of loosening the mounts and try to jack the pan up to get that 1 clearance or worst case drain the transmission take the pan off remove the bolt and put in fluid in. If I drop the the transmission pan is there a filter in there? also how much transmission fluid does it hold.
[IMG] ....
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I have a 2004 F250 Lariat Crew Cab FX4 6-3/4' bed.
What is the procedure to remove the Driver's side Rear Sway Bar Link upper bolt? - the link attaches to the frame. The nut is on the inside of the frame with about 1/3" to 2/3" clearance between the frame and the fuel tank. Of course, the frame's "C" shape faces towards the inside.
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Trying to change the front sway bar bushing with a PU version? Does it improve handling and steering feedback?
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My car is a 2000 Corolla CE.
If I replace the rear sway bar end links, do I need to get an alignment? (I just got an alignment 2 days ago). Here is a DIY on replacing the rear sway bar end links: [URL]
The top attaches to the strut.....what is the bar the other end attaches to?
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So I changed my own oil today 2013 Elantra GLS, did everything as I assume I should have, pulled the plug, changed the filter, put a new OEM crush gasket on and replaced the plug. I screwed it in with my fingers until i couldn't anymore, then used a 17mm wrench to tighten it. Now I have a slow drip coming from the bolt. I doubt I would have stripped it, I carefully hand tightened the bolt.
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I was in the process of changing out rotor and pads and my caliper bracket bolts while loosening them. The weird part is the bolt was turning in the process. The passenger side was easy as pie. The drivers side has me stuck. I have tried to drill out the broken bolt but noting is working. I don't know where to go from here. I have already purchased a new caliper and the bracket that goes with it. I just need to get this old one off so I can move on.
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I'm in the process of changing my shift motor on my 04 f350. I can't get it off because of a broken bolt. The previous owner must have done this before, and snapped the head and some of the shaft off, so it's basically an alignment pin that's recessed into the hole on the motor. For some reason it's holding the motor on, even though I don't think the hole is threaded. Any way to get it off. I'm thinking that taking a MAP gas torch to the casting on the motor may be my best bet.
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Can the hellwig sway bar links will work with an oem sway bar? I need new ones and figured why replace with something I know will fail early...
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2001 B5 wagon 4 motion V6, I have an engine oil leak dripping from the left side sway bar link, seriously I can't see were it comes from, I cleaned the sway bar and link with brake cleaner yesterday and today once again this drop on the edge of the link?? There is no oil any where else from above? I think my rear cam tensioners are leaking also since the oil in burning on the exhaust and it smells inside but i don't see any leak in the back.
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Have 2001 B5 2.8 4Mo. I have the bolt loose on the tie rod. I have the nut loose on the pinch bolt. I have the lock nut loose on the linkage. The tie rod will slip out 1/4 inch but will not come out of the way. I have hammered the crap out of it. Still no go.
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What bolt pattern the wheels are on my 99 passat. Fairly new to the game. and can I put on the audi phat fives or the S4 wheels also what problems are run into when you put on 17's. does it mess up the on board computer that computes mpg and all that good stuff?
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First of all... do I need to remove both, the restraining bolt AND nut to remove the tie rod end... if yes, than this bolt seized, the nut is easy but even if I punch the bolt it wont move... ??
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Bolt failure on oil pump assembly in 2.0t FSI engine
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As the title implies I need the part # for the OEM VW Stretch bolt that holds the Torque Arm insert in place. I've had the mount on my car for a few months now and I've grown tired of it.
I re-used the OEM bolt the first time and I think I'm better off replacing it as it may not be wise to unbolt it and re-torque it for a third time. Looking for the part # for the stretch bolt? I believe it's 21mm.
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Going to replace brake lines tomorrow and would like to confirm the torque spec on the actual banjo bolt as not to break them but also don't want to leave them too loose...
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So I just replaced my oil pump and i am reassembling my front end and I just cant get my passenger side engine mount bolt to stop spinning so i can get the nut on (the mount underneath the car) , I have no clue how to stop the spinning
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what does the front and rear sway bars do? how about the front lower tie bars? are they worth getting? i saw them on sale and i wasn't sure exactly what they did.
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I just brought a Passat b6 2010 with 10k miles. One thing is concerning me - DSG.
I have no problems as for noise or weird behavior when moving or changing gears at low or high speeds, low or high RPMs, but when i am at a full stop (with parking brake on) and shifting from P to D or from D to P, I hear a couple of clicks (sometimes 2 clicks, sometimes one click, sometimes 3 clicks) that happens between half a second to one second after i shift. It sounds like a stick car is being shifted, only louder. The clicks sound weird and "dry".
I made two videos, first one is outside and the second is inside a garage so it is possible to hear it better. Pay attention as it happens just after I select either D, R or P. It happens when moving from:
P to D - louder
P to R - louder
R to N
P to N
D to N
And vice versa.
[URL] ....
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Trying to change the stupid alternator in my 99 A6, which is the same engine/accessory layout as the B5 Passat.
And I didn't realize what I was in for. Is there any way to get to this puppy without dropping the entire front end? By looking at it (nobody stocks Audi,Bentley) it looks like the front end has to come apart all the way to the radiator support..........
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