Passat (B5) :: Changing Engine Air Filter?
Sep 1, 2007
I changed my air filter this morning, and it's a really difficult. Looking for any tips on how to get the two clips back on that are obviously harder to get back on? In the back and front under the heat shield... I just left them hanging there after cutting up my hands trying to reach in there and push each one back in...
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I need to change the engine and cabin filter on our Camry what brand do you recommend also does it really matter if you purchase the expensive filters vs 5.00 to 10.00 ones? I ask because looks like Toyota OEM filters are normal paper filters.
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I have a 03 Honda Odyssey and just changed plugs and air filter. There now a slight wiring sound. I was wondering what possibilities could be...vacuum leak, something incorrect in way I tuned car, new problem?? It doesn't sound like a steering pump. It quotes down after awhile.
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I am about to change the spark plugs on my 2007 Prius with around 120,000 miles on it. While I am doing that I wanted to possibly change the PCV Vavle. Where is it located? Also does my Prius have a fuel filter? I would change it also if it does.
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I'm attempting to change the A/C cabin filter on my 2013 LS. I've followed the instructions explicitly including setting the A/C function to recirculate mode.
However, when I get to removing the filter case I press on the 2 tabs as indicated in the instructions and try as I might the case doesn't move.
Am I missing something? Is there a specific knack to this?
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The fan inside my air filter box, or turbo charger intercooler (not sure of correct technical term) is running on and off for several hours after engine has been shut off. I believe this is running my battery down. Is this intercooler/fan suppose to run after the engine is shut off?
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I did it about two years ago following steps on here but i forgot where to hold the engine cover to take it off, it can be broken if done incorrectly so where to grab that cover to pull it off?
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OK what is the trick to changing the oil filter on the 6.7 without making a mess. My last truck, which was another brand, if I would let the truck sit for a couple of hours, I could get the filter loose, put a zip lock bag around the filter, & remove the filter without any drips. With the 6.7, even if I let the truck sit overnite, it seems like the oil doesn't drain from above the filter, & as soon as it comes loose my hand gets a bath. Any tricks to changing the oil filter.
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How do you get the engine cover off a 2007 Passat 2.0T to change air filter?
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I have a 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe Limited. It has about 104,000 miles on it. This past summer I changed the Cabin Air Filter for the first time. I believe I installed it right with the air flow arrows facing down. Ever since changing the cabin air filter my windows fog up easily. The winter time is bad now. The window Fog and ice up so much that I can't see out well at times. Even the back windows fog up bad! Defroster on high does nothing!
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Like a good boy scout, last week I changed the engine air and cabin filters in my 59K-mile 2007 Honda Accord.
Taking out the air filter, I saw the usual insects and dust in the housing and got out the shopvac to suck them out. But the hose was on the wrong port, and I ended up blowing the insects and dust everywhere. Augghhh! Into the intake manifold for sure, I'd bet. I connected the hose right, put it to the air intake, and prayed I was vacuuming all the dust I'd just blown in.
The next day, on the way to college, the car ran perfectly the first three miles. Then, a half mile from campus, the check engine light came on and the car began running badly. RPMs wouldn't increase even if the gas pedal was pressed. The speed couldn't be made to go above about 20 mph. The transmission, ordinarily smooth as silk, now clunked. Fortunately, I was able to reach the college parking lot. I parked the car and went to class, hoping the car would fix itself while I was gone.
Apparently it did. After the three hours I was in classes, the car started up just fine, and it drove home just fine. Except that the check engine light was still on.
At home, I used my OBD2 checker (bought five years ago but never until now even taken out of its packaging; love my Accord), saw a fault of P2101, and erased it. That made the check engine light go out. P2101 has to do with air/fuel, so it must be related to the air filter fiasco of yesterday.
By the way, there's a rattle from the glove compartment (which is lowered to replace the cabin filter). When the compartment door is open, the rattle goes away. Will troubleshoot this later. Am more concerned with being certain the check engine light doesn't come back. I don't want to go into limp mode on the highway, hours from home.
Two days later, I took advantage of a Sunday afternoon to try to blow/clean out the injectors and intake manifold. I put in a bottle of Techron and drove the car 45 miles, mostly on a nearby semi-rural highway. It has a 70 mph speed limit but at times traffic was doing 80. (Texas.) The car ran perfectly, both highway and city.
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My truck was noticeably sluggish when it shifted into overdrive or would refuse to shift into it all together, so I decided to change the filter and fluid in it. After this maintenance task was done, and I test drove it, I noticed the problem was still there. It also seems now that it has trouble shifting in all gears. When I tried to "manually" shift it through all gears, the transmission would hold it in the previous gear, buck, shake and then shift at a higher RPM.
Not only this, but if I floor the pedal, the truck doesn't want to drop to a lower gear to increase RPM. It only bucks and carries on until I let out of the gas. I also noticed that when I rev the engine in park, the engine does not want to go past 4,000 RPM, and I hear a "grinding" noise at about that range. In the past, I could red-line the engine in park/idle no problem. Does the auto trans have the ability to "hold back" the engine or do I have deeper engine problems?
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Where is is my fuel filter and what are the steps to changing it. I have a 2002 Ford Ranger. Also how do you change the flashers, the left blink is really fast but the right blink is fine.
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New to me 2006 F350 6.0 dually. Going to change oil and filter as well as the transmission fluid.
Should I replace the transmission filter on the Auto I have or just have Jiffy Lube do their thing?
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I tried to change my filter today and I couldn't get the outlet side off after removing the clip, is there a trick to it.
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The joys of owning a VW never ends...
Fuel line after the fuel filter going to the engine has sprung a leak...
Either way fuel line part number 561-130-307 is leaking wanted to give another heads up to people who are experiencing diesel smell inside the cabin...
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I was going to change the fuel filter on my truck yesterday, but couldn't figure out how the guard comes off. It has a bolt but it also has a rivet in it and looks like its all one piece so Id have to drill the rivet to remove. I tried to just spin the housing off.
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Noticed change in power after changing the fuel filters on 6.7 .... Seems like it has a fuel restriction at times maybe even air somewhere in the line. Thought I felt the truck hesitate after hitting the gas and Cavitating when I hit the gas petal. Both new filters are motorcraft parts. I did follow the procedure after installing filters by turning the key on 6 times waiting 30 seconds in between. Could it be a problem with the fuel pump. I should say I didn't have this until I changed the primary filter.
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Here within the next couple weeks, i am wanting to do some routine maintenance. right now on my list is just an oil change along with the fuel filter.
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my first diesel, and second 2002 f250. I picked up my 7.3 4x4 automatic CCSB last week. 202k on the odometer. I need to change the air filter but idk what to use. I don't think it's stock. The side of the air box says aFe. What the part number for the filter is? I don't see one on the filter anywhere.
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Recently I changed the timing belt on a 2004 Passat 1.8T and I realized I put the timing tensioner off by a few millimeters due to misunderstanding. I started the engine and it didn't sound very healthy. So I took off the timing belt and realized the tensioner was off by 8 millimeters. I corrected it and restarted the engine and it began back-firing. I re-checked and replaced the belt 3 more times and it still back-fired. The engine runs perfectly from a few seconds to a few minutes, then begins back firing and it stalls out. I had a recent post and I had suggestions to check all hoses, connections, etc. and to scan the computer for error codes. I did so and got the codes P0300, P0302, P0303, P0304. These codes mean back-fire in cylinders 2-4. I don't see any valve adjustments in the engine so could the valves be bent and do I have to replace them? God forbid D: Or do I have to reset some kind of computer code in the car or any other error that may need adjusting? All connections, hoses, wires, etc. are good. I've been a professional mechanic/technician for 25 years now and fixed cranes, bulldozers, semi-trucks, and anything else you can name that has wheels and is land based, all sorts of engines, gas, diesel, ethanol, you name it... I also worked on several VW's, including my own, and figured this V-Dub would be a walk in the park , but it turns out this Passat is the most complicated thing I've worked on in my life!
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