Passat (B5) :: Car Seems Surging On And Off Boost After Got Hit
Jul 26, 2011
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My wife hit a deer going 60MPH 3 hours from home. Go back up and pick up the car, it's down on power, I feel it surging on and off boost, hard to drive smooth. Roughly a half hour later I get a CEL. Don't have the code handy, but Boost limit Maximum exceeded. My local VW dealer says its a normal wear and tear item so Allstate will not cover it. The car had the radiator, radiator support, condenser, hood, bumper, grill, passenger fender, timing belt cover and timing belt replaced.
Allstate says not covered, like a flat tire, once I leave the shop, its like a flat tire on the road, nothing to do with the repair. BTW I had it repaired at an Allstate recommended PRO shop. I get it back tonight after 8 weeks of fooling around. Will need to check the actuator, hopefully it's bad. The turbo itself is good, boost fine, no smoke.
This is an 04 Passat 1.8T. I have had 14 cars with turbos, still have four and have never had a turbo go bad, full synthetic oil every 3K and 60 second cool down in hot weather.
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I have a 2004 1.8T AWM auto tranny Passat with APR chip. CIA, Bolt down Coil Packs, Bosch F6DTC plugs, OEM cat to straight pipe to magnaflow muffler, N75J, Forge DV (not the 007).
I installed a MBC bypassing the N75 to keep the spike at 16psi and hold (the n75J i spike at 22psi and hold 12~14), When I did that, the car will go in limp mode from 'over boosting'. I have to turn the MBC down to 9 to keep the car limping out. I love the way the MBC have the boost curve (the N75 is too passive for me). would like to fix this issue.
Also, with the N75 and or MBC, while in the APR 93 oct chip mode, I always get surging in 4th and 5th gear. Any time the boost is over 10psi, it is like I have tons of boost, but the engine is not using it. APR said it is the tranny, the tranny shop said it is the engine or computer, the engine shop said it is the tuning.
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I just bought a 98 passat 1.8t manual trans, its has 105k on it now, I am having a problem with the turbo surging. I am running about 17 psi however every now and then i can put it to the floor and my boost gauge will jump from 12-17 just back and forth, I also have a prob every now and then where it will only build 4 psi and stay there i can down shift take my foot on and off the gas and still no change then just all of a sudden 17 again both these probs are intermittent looked briefly at vacuum lines.
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so i was driving the vw and the car starts surging like its in limp mode but no cel! so i stopped and checked my engine bay to see if maybe my intercooler piping came loose but nothing! so i shut it off for about 5 seconds and turned it back on and it threw a cel! the whole time i was driving it home felt like it was going in and out of limp mode and would not boost past 4 psi! check the cel and came back as this:
P0238 turbo/supercharger boost sensor a ckt high input
p0106 map/baro ckt rng perform
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Musty odor TSB. I noticed today that when my car is parked and idling my interior lights and MFD "surge" when the seat heater is on, is there a TSB for this?
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Had the oil changed yesterday and changed the air filter myself. Car is now running rough, surging, when in drive and stopped. Runs cleanly when moving and surge is significantly less in park and neutral.
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I've been experiencing this problem since I had the car but it gets me around fine and has been getting 30mpg; hasnt bothered me all that much but i'd really like to get the problem solved... A few months ago I hooked up a boost gauge and she would not boost beyond 2psi. Since then I've changed the air filter, spark plugs and found a wire that was un-plugged causing the engine light to stay on. Hooked up a scanner and no more codes.. But the car still doesnt pull the way I'd think it should and with a stop watch hits 60 in no less than 9 seconds (shouldn't it be around 8?). The WG actuator rod is free, but I disconnected that electronic control solonoid, drove the car hard and there was no change in performance or driveability! One thing I havent done is change the fuel filter so I'm thinking maybe it's in a limp mode and awaiting the fuel filter to be changed? But then wouldnt a code come on if this is the case?
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Coming back from Busch Gardens today. Filled up at a Shell. Got on the road and within minutes got a check engine light and the throttle started surging like when you have water in the tank (know from past experience-don't ask). Is the check engine light what would come on if I had water in the tank?
I was able to make it home after adding one bottle of dry-gas but the car is still doing it...major loss of power during mid-level throttle. I was able to keep the engine light from coming on if I was very careful with the throttle and kept the revs around 3K or higher.
Hate to take it to the stealership if not necessary. Burned 1/4 tank of gas on the way home. Should I add a second bottle of dry-gas and top off the tank with fresh gas before taking it in? Don't want to damage injectors or?
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Is there any difference in boost between drive and manually shifting with a tiptronic? How about using sport mode?
I saw a video of a guy testing hist mkv with apr stage two and he reported that he was not getting full boost when manually shifting his dsg.
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Just got the car not to long ago and its not making any boost right now. the CEL is on and its throwing a code for a MAF sensor. what would be your first step to resolving this problem.
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I have a 2003 volkswagen passat, front wheel drive with a 1.8t. I was told that I could get more boost out of my turbo without having to do any major modifications. Is it possible or not. Because as it stands right now I am completely lost when it comes to this.
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I have a 2001.5 Passat with a TIP and an upsolute chip. I was wondering if there are any write ups with pictures on how to install a boost gauge. I'm having trouble finding where to put one as well as where to T off and get pressure from.
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So Im going to post a series of graphs of boost compared to rpms. I also did fueling and wastegate. Im having an issue with alot of boost flutter and sluggishness
Idle lambda is at -1.3
Partial lambda is at 13.5
Graph one showing specified and actual boost compared to rpm
Got rid of the crappy autozone special sunpro boost gauge and installed the newsouth that bill shipped me.
Only getting -10 vac at idle
Spiking and holding around 24-25 psi and then it barely drops at all but it holds at 24psi for a while which is kind of scary....
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I just replaced my steering rack and now I have a strong pull to the right when boost come in.
I am gettin an alignment this week but could an aligned problem cause this?
I transferred my old tie rod ends over to the new set up. They are pretty new.
It's a very similar feeling to when I had a bad control arm bushing. I just replaced a lot if the front end stuff though and this was not happening before the install.
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So i let my car cool down for a minute after i drive it and today while it was cooling it would like bog down but it wouldnt die. Ive seen it while at a stop sign or stop light. Only while it was cooling down. It is HOT here so could that be the problem?
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I have a '98 b5 1.8t fwd Passat with 104k miles on it, that's not making any boost. I've pulled the turbo intake pipe off and spun the turbo and it spins smoothly and free of any shaft play. I pulled the vacuum line from the N75 to the wastegate and it's STILL not making 'any' boost, with the exception of about 1psi when flooring it, and 3-4 psi when the car shifts at WOT into a higher gear.
To me, without the n75 providing the can ANY pressure, it would lead me to believe that the wastegate is stuck open somehow. I'll put my wastegate-inflator-o-matic on it tonight and see if it moves at all when I provide pressure to the can -- but is there anything else I should be looking for or try? After that I would assume I'd need to pull the cat and feel in the exit of the turbo and feel if the wastegate is closing all the way...
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I was underneath my car checking everything out before heading to h2o and I'm pretty sure I found a bad o-ring causing a slight boost leak. Oil is seeping through the connection between the flange for the TOP and the turbo itself (see picture). 99% of the time oil seepage between connections is indicative of a boost leak. So I go to the dealer to try to find a replacement o-ring but they told me that they cannot obtain the part and it isn't available anywhere and that they don't even have a part number for it.
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Car: 2006 Passat 2.0t 6mt - 81k miles. Has lived a grocery-getter life with an occasional romp on the back roads on the off chance the wife and kids aren't with me.
Symptom: Total loss of power (boost?) at at around 3-5k rpm and almost no power to accelerate (10-15sec to get one more mph). Service Engine light has come on twice, but clears with time or removal of negavive battery terminal. At low RPM range power is good, but suspect minor power loss. I'm only partly suspect on that last statement since I only drive it once a week. Idle seems normal, engine sounds normal at idle. Last week I did notice a barely audible whistle when boost is engaged. I have no access to a Vag-Com accept at the dealer.
The car let me down last weekend when I was smoking a jerk in a BMW that wouldn't let me get on the interstate. If it is the PCV and DV, where I can get one? Also, I'm not a tuner. I want OEM performance.
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So when i try and brake boost, I put my foot on the brake and then harder on the gas but instead of building power my ecu just cuts the boost. I tried it with traction control off aswell.
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so there is no visible signs of a boost leak and my boost gauge shows normal vacuum at idle indicating its not a vacuum leak, yet in the higher rpms im loosing boost.
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I have a 98 passat b5 turbo. All done to it is k&n filter and exhaust.... I put a boost gauge on it and i only get 3-4 psi... is this normal? it sounds very low. Also a weird thing is that the boost drops off at high rpm.
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