Here's my problem, when I'm on a hill and I engage first and let go of the clutch the car revs but the clutch doesn't grip tight. It's slow to engage but during regular driving my clutch is fine. My only problem is on hills.
View 9 Replies2001 V6 passat. the clutch doesn't start to grab until it is almost all the way up. there is maybe 1/2 inch of pedal travel where the clutch is actually grabbing. how much travel should there be when the clutch is actually grabbing?
This is a hydraulic clutch setup, right? so i was thinking best case scenario, it needs fluid or to be bled for air, worst is a new slave cylinder. 100K miles on it, engine ran strong and the clutch didn't slip at all.
It says to turn until it clicks once, but mine won't click. I can turn it just so far and no more, but never a click. It seems perfectly tight. Is it OK?
View 19 RepliesWhen cruising down the expressway we heard a noise coming from the closed Sun roof. The wind would pick up the front of the sun roof causing a lift / close noise. When I push up on front of the sun roof with my hand it does move it's not locked tight shut. It's annoying to have to listen to.
View 1 RepliesSo, got the 20 K miles service done last month on my 2012 Passat.
Recently I noticed that when I press the brake pedal to slow down, it seems to work fine. The brakes "catch" the rotors, there is a clear "grip" to the rotors and the car responds pretty fast to start slowing down. However, when I did a brake check to stop the car, I notice that when I press the brakes hard, they don't "grip" the rotors as hard as I would expect past that initial grip instance. Seems like their grip is not "catching" the rotors. As a comparison, my other car (6-cy, disc brakes front and rear) does maintain that grip. Am I missing something in this? Is the behaviour of the Passat's brakes expected?
How often does VW do break flushed based on their service schedule?
I bought this car and I've changed out the Clutch Position Sensor, the black one on the clutch mount. Started to work and start but now it's doing the same symptoms as before. So here is what is going on.
1. Randomly doesn't start, full power comes on, and fuel system turns on, immobilizer works just fine as far as I can tell (key light turns off)
2. Cruise control doesn't work (which lead me to the CPS)
3. High revs between shift, once I push the clutch to shift it revs up high, I noticed that if I stay under 3k it doesn't do it as much, but if I go HAM on it it revs up about 1k rpm more than at shift point. But if I shift nice it revs about 2-400 rpm.
It's been tuned by C2 Motorsports, done by a certified mechanic, that's the only mod on the car, besides suspension. I bought the car and dropped 1100 to fix it to drive right, newish throttle body, and a major vacuum hose, and the tune within a month of getting the car and the tune was to mainly flash the ecu so it wouldn't pull two codes for a leak that wasn't there anymore.
Got a new clutch, flywheel, and slave done about a month and a half ago at the dealer (got bent over with the price too, but that is beside the point). Ever since, the rpm's have been acting really weird. When the car is in neutral, it will rev by itself from 800-1800. The problem seems to get worse under warm conditions.
I haven't had a chance until today to take it back to the dealer, they scanned it and a couple of codes came up. I will get the exact codes on monday, but they said bring it back then so they can take a closer look at it. What this could be? Throttle body position sensor? Its really pissing me off, and they better fix it. Just want to be well prepared for a fight come monday...
Caravan acting like it was in neutral when she put it into gear and then jumping abruptly. She solved the problem by turning it off and back on. I think her problem might be the Speed Sensor b/c my Ford Taurus did the same thing for years: When put into gear, doesn't move and revs like in neutral, then suddenly jumps into gear sometimes. Problem could sometimes be solved by turning it off and on or moving gear shift to park and then back to drive. Also, even after warming up, when starting from a stop it would stay in 1st gear and not shift up, then suddenly shift up and car would jerk forward. Sometimes when it wouldn't switch gears the RPMs would remain high, even on highway. We thought we needed a new transmission! We found on line that it might be the speed sensor, which lets the car know what speed you are going. We switched it out and all the problems disappeared!
View 1 RepliesAbout 2-3 months ago I noticed that whenever I would push the clutch in and let the revs drop, they would drop below the 800 rpm mark and the car would automatically rev them back up to prevent from stalling. This usually happens when I am slowing to come to a stop, like coming down an off-ramp or to a stop light. Then one night after a 45 minute steady speed highway drive, I pushed the clutch in, shifted to neutral and let the clutch out and coasted to a stop. As the revs dropped, the engine stalled completely and the red alternator warning light came on. While still rolling on the highway, I pushed and held the start/stop button and it immediately started back up.
Over the last 6 weeks, this has become more frequently. It is now at a point where the revs will pretty much always drop below 800 rpm when I slow down and the car usually revs them back. However, I have had six more stall episodes like the one above and it is starting to scare me about driving. I find myself revving the engine when I coast in neutral to slow down to prevent this from happening. This happens either with the clutch depressed and gear engaged and slowing or clutch out and in neutral gear.
The car has never had issues. I am the sole owner. Just coming up on 30,000 miles. I currently have UM tune stage 2, EVOMS intake, APR HPFP, 42DD downpipe with stock cat-back exhaust, HPA short shifter with metal cable bushings, Stoptech Street rotors and pads, VWR springs and RSR clutch, which was installed at about 22,000 miles one year ago. Have serviced it religiously, oil changes every 5,000 miles, did the water pump recall and had no issues thus far.
I moved from high-elevation Utah to New Hampshire last summer. The tune and calibration were all done in Utah prior to the move. These symptoms/issues beginning and getting worse coincided with the cold winter and lots of snow were are having. Could that and the tune having been calibrated at another elevation have anything to do with this?
I bought my Hyundai new in late 2011. No problems with the car (other than no spare tire???) until just out of the warranty (63,000). Had a noticeable drop in power on the highway. No warning lights. Drove another 100 miles with power intermittently dropping. Next day engine light comes on. $800 later I have a new high pressure fuel pump. All seems well. after a few weeks, I notice that the car seems to be revving when I depress the clutch to change gears, like up to 4000 rpm's. If I leave the clutch in for a few seconds it will begin to decrease. But if I shift right into gear as I have done for the last 35 years of driving, it is not smooth, jerky. This seems to happen mostly going into 2,3, and 4th gear, always going up. It never happens when downshifting. I tried tapping the brakes when shifting up, and sometimes it does seems to drop the rpm's. What it might be. It probably is related to the work that was done, but I don't really trust the dealer and want to have a little info going in.
View 1 RepliesI have a MT '12 Golf 2.5L with around 8k miles. I always park with the transmission in neutral. When I first start it up in the morning, the engine revs high, around 1500RPM, so I can clearly hear the engine inside the car. I start it, it revs up and holds, and when I release the clutch I hear what sounds like a rev, but the tach doesn't move.
I believe the GTI doesn't need the clutch depressed for the entire turn over, but the Golf does, so I have to hold it until the engine is running. It may not be a big deal, but I'm just wondering why releasing the clutch in neutral would make a noise. I don't hear it any other time than at start up.
2004 Ford Ranger revs the engine when you engage the clutch then when you place it in gear it's like the cruises on it want to drive without you touching the Accelerator?
View 4 RepliesReplaced clutch master cylinder last week. Now when I accelerate it revs the RPM's and finally catches after about 5-10 seconds. Is this related to the previous repair? They are saying needing new clutch. What to do?
View 3 RepliesSpring has arrived and the whoop-de-dues are reminding me that the suspension in my 2013 passat tdi is rather soft. it rides great on a smooth highway but i would be curious if there is a way to change the suspension so that it 'floats' less on uneven pavement and in tight turns?
My goals would be:
1. float less on uneven pavement
2. track flatter and smoother in tight turns at speed
3. maintain highway comfort or dam close to it (99% of my driving)
4. remain at stock height (i am not lowering this car up here!)
It may not be possible to achieve all of this but at this point i do not know what is possible or what the pros and cons are of any suggested changes. A quick search of 'tdi suspension' on vwvortex gave me a few hits but mostly for golf and jettas.
My wife and I drove our 1998 BMW Z3 from Kapoho, the easternmost point of the big island of Hawaii to volcanoes national Park. This is about a 30 mile drive and you're going from sea level to 4000 feet. We were going up there to meet some friends driving over from Kona to tour the national Park. By the way these friends are from Boston and the husband and I went to school together at Michigan Tech in the 60s. Anyway we meet them in their jeep and tour around the park with them because our car is only two seater. When we're done we are going to drive back down to our house and spend the night. I purposely left the gas go way down in the tank of the Z3 in order to fill it up with ethanol free gas because we don't drive this car much and it sits a lot.
I asked my wife if she would like to drive the Z3 with the other couples wife while I drove their jeep with my friend her husband. We had agreed to stop at a glassblowing shop on the way down the hill called 2400°F. When we stopped there my wife explained that she had a really hard time shifting is the Z3 and when I drive it the rest of the way home, I had a hard time shifting, it felt like I couldn't really disengage the clutch completely and it was hard to get into first and reverse gear. All the time the low gaslight is now on. I get to the only station that sells ethanol free gas and fill it up. Of course the gas light warning light is off now but now it now shifts perfectly?????. It drives home fine all the rest of the way. What is going? How or why does the gas warning light being on make it hard to disengage the clutch?
My AC doesn't work right now, however, sometimes it works. It's very random, it doesn't matter if its hot outside or if its cool.
What happens is my AC clutch doesn't engage. when I turn ac on, it raises the idle for a second, and as soon as it does that, my ac compressor gets around 12 volts for less than a second, and the idle drops again. it does that in a loop.
My fans work fine, both high and low speeds, everything else works, all the fuses are good. I changed the pressure switch, didn't fix the problem. I also checked the ac coil and clutch. everything clicks and works. ground on the compressor is good.
Other odd thing - positive wire on the compressor constantly getting around 3 volts. What can it be and what else do i need to check?
AC went out last week, was working great earlier that day. Checked under the hood and the clutch isn't engaging. Noticed an RPM spike every four seconds or so at idle when the AC was on. Checked voltage coming off the wires that go to the clutch and saw a voltage spike from essentially nothing to 9-12V which occurred in sync with the RPM spike. I poked a screw driver in the high pressure port and got a nice blast of coolant so I figured refrigerant isn't the issue.
Fuses are all good, in car and on battery. Replaced the fan control module and now there's no RPM spike and I get a constant 12v with the AC on at the clutch wire, but it still doesn't engage.
It's a 2000 Jetta 2.0 auto.
I've got a 07 accent with 90k miles on it. It has recently started slipping some (revs high, while in gear, without accelerating, especially in 5th gear). It also can be physically hard to move the shifter into gear sometimes (with my hand).
So, does this mean I need a new clutch? Or are there other possibilities? Should I replace/fix anything with the clutch? Sounds like the flywheel should be resurfaced? Will it shift more smoothly after the fix?
Is this something a newb could do himself? I can change the oil, rotate tires. Outside of that I haven't done much. My toolset for now is fairly limited: two jackstands, a trolley jack, torque-wrench and ratchet sets.
On my '92, 302, I have a failing compressor. It is "catching" after 1 - 3 turns. The clutch doesn't want to spin freely, not cooling well at idle and local shop advised me to get a new everything, if I want it to last.
My question is if I can pull a compressor from the JY, from same year/model, replace orifice tube, run a cleaner thru, evacuate the system, and fill with appropriate refrigerant. The reason I'm not doing the full repair with new compressor, new condenser, new drier, is I'm going to be pulling the engine at some point with a newly rebuilt engine I'm working on. I know the old system have R-12, but isn't there a way to just get by with the 134 retrokit's?
I have a 1995 Ford Windstar. When I turn on the air conditioning, the compressor clutch does not engage despite having sufficient refrigerant in the system. Jumping current directly to the compressor clutch will engage the clutch, so it's not the clutch. I suspect the relay for the compressor clutch inside the CCRM may be bad, but am not sure how to test it. I have a Haynes repair manual, but how to test this device?
View 12 RepliesSo I picked up a 20th today. The clutch has 30k on it its an oem luk. Drove fine most of the ride home then i went to shift and it wouldn't grab. Got it towed home. trans goes into all gears fine. When you put it in first and try to go it starts to roll but just makes a grinding type noise and doesnt go into gear. I didn't hear any chatter until maybe 10 miles before this happened. I still have pressure in the clutch pedal as well. when the car is in neutral running there isnt any noise which makes me think it isnt the throw out bearing.
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