Passat (B5) :: Car Is Showing A Rough Transition
Aug 7, 2006
Drove my wife's 4motion today after having drove it a few days ago,didn't really notice anything unusual,then ......but today going around a curve at highway speed(app.55-65mph) went over a small (low) but the length of the lane paved strip and it acted like it had a solid rear axle instead of the indi rear ,showing up as an uneven rough transition ,than the usual nice unoticable smooth ride it had for years,...what rear suspension item would create that if it were broke/failed, Didn't notice any other strange behavior or noises on straights or curves w/o bumps.
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Ever since I picked up my V8 Touareg I've noticed that the transition from stopped to starting can sometimes be rough, and that the shift from 1st to 2nd is often a fairly violent jerk. The worst transmission problem on my Touareg is experienced when I'm in stop-and-go traffic going around 5mpg in 1st gear then accelerate normally. The shift to 2nd is extremely rough.
I took my Touareg into the shop last week to fix this, and another problem I was having, and the car is still at the dealer. When I talked to my service advisor on Friday he said that this is a fairly common problem with later VIN cars. Evidently, they had to reprogram the transmission to meet some EPA regulation and that is causing rough shifting in the lower gears.
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I own a 2001 BMW 325i. I bought it in 2011, it was in excellent condition, except for a small oil leak. I fixed the leak and then everything started happening. I've replaced so many things in this car that I've actually put more in to it then what I paid for it. This last issue was a rough idle and the scanner was showing me the code for a misfire. I took it in to the mechanic, he found that it was the first injector, replaced it, the night I picked it up it was still doing the same thing...engine light popped on. I brought it back the next day, they kept it for over a week, running test after test, finally they did an internal survey and found that the first cylinder is damaged and the shop has condemned the engine. My question is this: Is there no way to repair a cylinder? How or why does this happen and how much longer can I drive the car before it craps out on me. So far, it is rough when it's cold..but once it warms up it rides just fine. Engine light comes on and then goes off.
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I find that I often don't get smooth shifts; mostly to 2nd and 3rd. By this I mean I notice a gravel like transition between the gates. Doesn't happen all the time but I wonder if it's how I'm shifting versus the car. Or maybe the RPMs I shift at.
I did ask dealer to take a look and they said smooth and normal to them. I generally will shift when shift advice pops up on display. Also. I've noticed it doesn't happen as much if I pause the shift at the neutral point versus a single push gear to gear. Clutch is always to the floor for the entirety of the shift.
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This morning when I started my SE -> both my key-fobs showed Low Battery on the MFi screen. Yes I know they are covered within the 12 months warranty but surely 3 months of use should not deplete the batteries...
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Just wondering how many other C owners are experiencing harsh transition when the hydraulic brakes take over, just as the car comes to a stop, when it's wet outside...
There's a delicate balance just when you're coming to a stop with mild pedal pressure. MG2 regen. braking tapers off, and at the same time, the hydraulic brake system applies the brakes. Do this at a low enough speed, with little pressure, like creeping forward in traffic, and the brakes grab pretty harshly...
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I have a 2010 2.0t passatt wagon and the gas gauge falls to empty and it shows --- in the miles to empty.it is doing this every second day now..
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I'm new to Prius V ownership. Just bought it a month ago. I do have a question regarding what I can best describe as driveline chatter. It seems that when I slow down to a point where the EV mode takes over and then speed up again, the Prius will chatter as it makes the transition from electric to gas. Is this a normal thing for a Prius to do. It goes away after the pedal is further depressed and doesn't last for long. It seems just at the transition from EV to ECO (engine) mode.
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From a dead stop it takes a second to go and isn't super smooth, slightly jerky. Seems fine for all other gears, just from dead stop it isn't a smooth transition into 1st gear. Is this typical of DSG or no?
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Is it necessary to change the transition fluid every 60,000 miles?
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I got this problem that just seems to have surfaced within the past week. The first time I noticed, I started the car and the navigation showed my position about 12 miles away in the next town over. Now its been doing the same thing nearly every time I start up the navigation. I can correct it sometimes by going into settings/position on map and manually moving the cursor to my correct location. I say sometimes it works, because 50% of the time I can move the cursor to the position I'm at and it will then work just fine but other times the nav will have my heading completely wrong (I'm going north, but nav has me going south) and it will not correct. Sometimes it will just slowly drift off my real position and eventually it won't even be on a road anymore.
Tonight, no matter how many times I tried to correct the nav by moving the cursor, it kept my heading well off of where it should be, practically 180 degrees from the way I was actually going. So as soon as I started moving again the maps would be totally off.
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I have recently done a battery disconnect hoping the issue was a glitch in the ecu/tcu as this has solved some clunkiness in my old audi. But the issue is till there.
I also went ahead and did a fluid change of the transmission at the dealer.
The issue is intermittent and the rpms just rev up slightly only on the 3rd and 4th transition and like I mentioned it is an intermittent issue.
I have read something about adjusting bands to the transmission? Is this solution applicable to the 05 solara v6 tranny? The old transmission fluid was pink and not black or burnt.
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I have a vacuum leak. That's clear. When I put the truck in 4WD the air vents to the defrost after a slow (15-20 s) transition. The only way I can get the air to come back to the dash vents is to disengage 4x4. Of course, the auto-lockers aren't working. I can trouble shoot the vacuum lines and find the leak. No big deal.
I've isolated it downstream of the vacuum reservoir. It could be the PVH solenoid but at least the reservoir side holds pressure.
My concern is the noticeably poor A/C performance. It cycles between kinda cool and kinda warm. I remember the A/C being ice cold a few weeks ago.
Could the vacuum leak in 4x4 vacuum lines be related to the A/C problems? I'm thinking blend door vacuum issues. But I can't even find the blend door vacuum lines.
How do I know if my blend door is fully open/closed? Are there any other place to look that can cut down on my troubleshooting?
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My 2006 passat is showing an exclamation mark beside the cruise control symbol in the instrument panel. And sometimes it will work for 3 months and then sometimes it will cut in and out every day.
So far it has been on for 3 days straight. Anything I can check to see why it is doing this?
Also It worked for 3 months until I un-hooked my battery to install an amplifier and it started messing up the next day again.
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I just bought a used automatic MM with 137k miles. Engine and interior super clean. I did test drive and it seemed to pull back a bit and rev harder when I was starting out from a stop or in intermittent traffic where I was slowing down and speeding up with flow of traffic. It also does it worse on hills. The guy from the car lot said it was the way I was driving the car...hmmmm...I'm not a lead foot. I let the car ease into higher speeds, I don't punch it. Ever.
Yesterday I took a longer drive and had other people in the car with me who also noticed the rough transitions between low gears and asked if that was "normal." NOT being a car mechanic I get alarmed when others are pointing something I too thought could be at issue. I bought the car "as is" after doing some online research and finding out that these car's even at this age get 4.5 to 5 star ratings from people who have them.
I took it to Auto Zone and they put the little code reader on the car but no codes came up. His suggestion was to have all the fluids changed in case someone put the wrong weight of transmission fluid in the car. I did check the fluid at the car lot and it was bright pink and at correct levels. Not sure that's what it is. He also suggested the possibility of it being a "shift cellinoid"?
I don't know what that is but he said it shouldn't be expensive to fix. He also suggested getting the transmission serviced to see if that might solve it. Someone else suggested "clean the IAC hole and throttle plate with choke cleaner..." don't know what that is? Someone else said to consider a vacuum leak in the fresh air tube between the air filter box and the throttle body...these are all just guesses.
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Own a 2006 Volkswagen Passat 2.0t a/t. My dash board is showing a parking brake fault but as soon as the that comes up my tranny will go into limp mode ???? could the parking brake and tranny be linked together??? My parking brake still engaged and disengaged ??? what can it be ???
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It happens in the morning or on cold starts. The car has a rough idle and the throttle response is terrible. Its very sensitive and jerky. Could this be bad spark plugs? Its a 2006 2.0T and its had all the maintenance done.
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I was getting off the interstate today, and the passat had a really hard down shift.
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I have a B5 99.5 AEB and having rough idling. Started the car in the morning seem fine. Later that evening started up again in a warm up idle and then the car shut off. Tried starting up again but took couple of minutes. Pumped the gas piddle started up but looking at the idle gauge needle was bouncing around. I don't think i have an vacuum leak.
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Just noticed the other day the Passat was idling significantly rougher than usual, most of the time it's smooth as butter but not so much lately. It's not rough like a bad misfire, just not very smooth anymore. This could be indicative of the dreaded oil-pump bolt failure rearing it's ugly head (finally)?
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I got an 800rpm rough idle, no serious lack of power, every time after filling up w/ gas she starts slowly (bout 3 secs) and then tries to die. she catches herself and revs from 400-1200 for about a minute, then drives away fine. Getting:
17544 - P1136 Bank 1 : System too lean
16825 - P0441 Evap ECS : Incorrect flow
16684 - Random/Multiple cyl misfire detected (intermittent)
16688 - Cylinder 4 : Misfire detected (intermittent)
Also have: 01039 - Coolant temp sensor(g2) : open or short to plus? (intermittent)
Doubt the last has anything to do with BIG problem, but my temp sensor on ly gets off 0 when i am moving and using A/C...is this going to cause issue now/later/ever?
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