Passat (B5) :: Car Grumbling, Chokes And Then Roughly Starts In The Morning
Oct 18, 2011
My 2001.5 Passat, 143,000 miles, has a problem which has me stumped. In the morning it won't catch. Starter turns over fine. Have to pump gas a bit. After 7 or 8 attempts, it (grumbling) coughs, chokes and then roughly starts. If I let it sit for a few minutes, it smooths out. After that, I have no trouble starting up the rest of the day, and engine runs smoothly and quietly. One buddy sez its the fuel pump; buddy #2 sez its the MAF filter; #3 sez its a sensor or maybe gummed up fuel injection. I used injector cleaner, but it hasn't worked.
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I am having a problem when i go to start my car. I only seems to happen in the morning. The car will start and then 2 seconds later it will die. The only way i can get it to go is my jamming it in drive.. and then still it takes the car like 2 minutes before it will pick up speed and start driving normal.
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I've got a great little 1991 Civic DX, 1.5L manual. It's never let me down and I love working on it.
Stalled on the highway a couple weeks ago and I couldn't get it re-started. Over the years, it's had a bit of a personality where it chugs and occasionally stalls at a low idle, or when very slowly accelerating from a stop. If I'm sitting still, I'll turn the key to full off, give it about 30 seconds, and it'll start right back up. For whatever reason just re-starting without turning off never seemed to work.
So since it stalled on the highway and I wasn't able to get it started at all, here's the list I've replaced or completed:- main relay- fuel filter- plug wires- spark plugs (the old ones were due, but not overdue, and all four were pretty fouled with burned oil and had oil in the wells)- spark plug well o-rings and valve cover gaskets- and fully charged the battery
At this point, if I let it sit until it's cool, it'll start right back up with no trouble. Then once it warms, it starts to run a bit rough, eventually chugs, stalls, and then I can't get it started again - spins a few times, then kinda sticks, then spins a few times, and kinda sticks again.
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So for the last couple of days the car has been starting like crap. It's only when the car sits overnight or all day. The temperature is freezing here. I'll turn the key and the car cranks. There is no long cranking or anything. But when it does turn over it sounds like it's running on 3 cylinders for like 3 seconds. It will sit at a very very low rpm, 300-400,then after a few seconds with it jump up to normal. The car sounds like it's going to stall but then it runs fine. My car has the UM tune currently. I know people have rough starts where the rpms are high when their car isn't tuned. I was wondering jg this was the same concept, but with the tune the rpms are forced down because of the tune.
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It's a 05 Kia Rio. I've recently put a bit of work into it due to a few issues which were fuel related, namely replacing the fuel filter/pump. It also has brand new spark plugs. That solved the issue that originally put it on blocks for a few months and it ran fine for the past few weeks.
Today I went outside to drive to work and got the symptoms in the title. I know it's not a spark issue because it does start, and I used it on accessory to air up my tires this morning.
I'm just not sure where to go next. I've done a bit of searching and have found recommendations for checking the grounds and the distributor cap.
While running at rough idle, depressing the accelerator makes it die faster, rather than keeping it running. It rained last night and this morning. It's about 70 outside instead of the 80-90 it's been the last few weeks. No check engine light, but I've only tried to start it about 10 times.
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My 99 Lumina's battery would drain after 36-48 of just sitting (12-24 before replacing the battery.) I had tried somethings did research and had no luck. In January this year I got an oil change at a jiffy lube type place. They removed something by the spark-plug wires right at the bottom edge of the windshield. When I tried to start it the car engine it jerked, shook, and didn't start. They did something in that same spot then it started right up.To my surprise the battery didn't drain any more!! Then 2 weeks later it started running rough when I slowed down, started to die, was very hard to start, then ran very rough, next I had to step on the gas and ride the brake for 4 blocks then it died in my driveway. That all happened over 15 miles wile in traffic. I tried to start it many times with no luck. The battery was fine after 4+ months of sitting.
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I have a 2002 F-450 crew cab 2wd automatic 7.3 diesel with 298k on the body and about 120k on a Jasper engine. About a month ago I started it in the morning to let it warm up. Went to make coffee. Came back and it had died. It was low on fuel and I didn't pay attention. Played hell getting it primed back up. Now if I don't let it warm up for twenty minutes it won't run worth a flip and has been dying out. Changed fuel filter. Unplugged ICP. No change. When I crank it it will turn over for about thirty seconds then oil pressure gauge moves, then engine starts to run very roughly. It will die. I repeat a few times. It will eventually start and start and stay running. Blows whitish grey smoke until it warms up. No loss in power till CEL comes on. Still not too much loss. Sometimes it takes a long time to get it running. Sometimes it will die after I get out of the driveway if I don't let it warm up. Truck was serviced maybe 3000 miles ago. No water in fuel. New fuel filter. New air filter. It is a company truck. I work for a small company building cell towers.
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My 2004 Camry XLE 4 Cyl has rough starts in the morning. Idle is smooth after it starts, but it just doesn't start as smooth as it does every other start during the rest of the day. Its a significant difference.
Things I've done so far:
-Cleaned the mass airflow sensor with CRC Mass Airflow Cleaner
-Cleaned throttle body by following the DIY
-Changed the Air filter
-Changed Oil (upgraded to Mobile 1 Synthetic, changed filter to Bosch)
-Changed PCV Valve
-Changed Spark Plugs to Iridium Power
It doesn't seem to matter what the weather is like, either way it rough starts. It has been doing this for quite a while now, well before all this maintenance I've been doing lately.
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Toyota celica 2000 GT automatic, has a problem on cold start, especially when the temperature is below 32 degree Fahrenheit. The engine starts and runs roughly, but most electrical devices do not work, the dashboard and car windows are power off and I can't change the gear so it can not move. Only after warming up for about 10 minutes then the dashboard will work, then everything is fine till the next morning. I sent it to a small garage but they found nothing.
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I have a 2007 Santa Fe GLS AWD that has a rear driver side tire problem. It starts after roughly 10 minutes of driving as a slight squeal. It starts at around 20mph and will quit when I reach 40mph. The longer I drive, the louder it gets to a point where it is almost constant between 20-40mph. It stops when I apply the brakes or when I turn slightly to the left or right. Also, if I stop and turn the car off it takes 5-10 minutes for the squealing to start again. There is a smell of hot metal and sweet smell coming from the area.
I had the rear brakes and rotors replaced 12,000 miles ago, and them checked at my local Hyundai dealer when I first noticed the squeal and the mechanic said the brakes and rotors in the rear did not need replacing. What it could be?
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Have a 2008 Saturn - 30,000 miles. Most times it only starts in Neutral first time of day it is used. After this, fine. Had with dealer mechanics for 2 days and they say they can find nothing wrong. Can't do anything unless they have the problem.
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I have a 2002 F-450 crew cab 2wd automatic 7.3 diesel with 298k on the body and about 120k on a Jasper engine. About a month ago I started it in the morning to let it warm up. Went to make coffee. Came back and it had died. It was low on fuel and I didn't pay attention. Played hell getting it primed back up. Now if I don't let it warm up for twenty minutes it won't run worth a flip and has been dying out. Changed fuel filter. Unplugged ICP. No change. When I crank it it will turn over for about thirty seconds then oil pressure gauge moves, then engine starts to run very roughly. It will die. I repeat a few times. It will eventually start and start and stay running. Blows whitish grey smoke until it warms up. No loss in power till CEL comes on. Still not too much loss. Sometimes it takes a long time to get it running. Sometimes it will die after I get out of the driveway if I don't let it warm up. Truck was serviced maybe 3000 miles ago. No water in fuel. New fuel filter. New air filter. It is a company truck. I work for a small company building cell towers.
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It only happens after being at sustained highway speeds for 45+ minutes. When exiting the highway, the transmission torque converter lock disengages with a jolt, usually around 30 MPH. Has happened every time I've done extended highway travel since the car hit 1000 miles. And more importantly, is there a dealer fix?
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I have a 2002 VW Passat that I cannot communicate with the ECU. I have the latest version of the Vagcom software downloaded. It has the factory radio installed and still will not communicate. The car runs, but runs rough. Anything else to check?
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I have been working through a variety of problems on my 01 AWM with TIP. Im down to two issues that maybe related but Im not really sure. The car idles very rough once warmed up (idles smoother cold). The other is in the way the car delivers its power. Its a un -smooth, kind of pulses at different times jerky and its inconsistent. There are currently no lights on and hasnt been for almost a year. On the last scan the only code that was stores was P01040 (cat). Here is what I have done so far;
Replaces plugs and coil packs Replaced fuel filter Cleaned MAF and TB New N75 valve New DV Cleaned pancake valve replaced 6 vacumn lines with leaks.
Maybe Im missing something here but I think im pretty much down to the PCV system under the intake. Should I just order a rebuild kit from ECS and dig in?
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I posted earlier about my car idling roughly, the dealership is now saying it may be my engine or transmission mounts. I have a 2002 Passat wagon with 41500 miles.
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I have had this problem since day one. The idle seems to be very rough once you give it some gas and drive the car it runs smooth as silk. The dealer told me that is the wayit should be due to the narrow V6 with one head cylinder. I have had an 02 Passat V6 and I dont remember it having a rough idle.
My other issue is again since day one when I am moving very slow like when I am backing out of my drive way there is what I would describe as a grinding sound. It does it all the time forwards and back, all day not just the first thing in the morning. Again the dealer says it is normal.
I just had my first oil change about 2 weeks ago and was hoping these were just thing that would be addressed then but they dont seem to be better or worse always the same.
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I have noticed that the interior windows fog in the morning after leaving our garage. If the temps are in the 40s-50s, I will have the heater set at 72, outside air coming in, fan set at 1. Within a half mile I have to put the defrost on and engage the A/C. At this point the windows clear, but as soon as I disengage the A/C they fog again. I don't recall having this happen in the past. I have checked to see if there is moisture in the car, such as wet carpets, but everything seems dry. It seems crazy and wasteful to have to engage the A/C at these low temps. Is this normal?
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I picked up a Automatic 1999 Passat V6 with 15k on it and if I let the car sit out all night the car doesn't wanna shift outta 1st gear in the morning. Its fine if I let the car warm up 5 minutes but any earlier it has to think about it...
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My Variant (2007, 48K miles) is experiencing a squealing noise during cold morning (below 45F) start ups? AC always off at start up and the noise goes away once the engine is warmed up. I brought it to the dealer last week and after leaving the car over night they told me the noise can't be duplicated which is a total BS. [URL].....................................
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It's been almost 6 months since I dropped 1.2" and added 17" OEM Monte Carlo wheels. On a smooth road, it's a splendid ride, but on uneven roads it is pretty horrible. Add to that a "crunching" sound from the springs when I hit the road in the morning. That tends to go away as the car warms up.
The car looks great, but I wonder if I should have kept the supple ride I was getting before the mods. Is 24lbs. A little heavy for a 17" wheel? That's what the Monte Carlos weight. My understanding is that a lighter wheel will soften some of those bumps.
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