Passat (B5) :: Car Cranks Fine But Won't Start
Jul 1, 2011
First time ever, my Passat has stranded me. Won't start. 120K. Cranks fine. Fuel pump fuse is OK. Almost new plugs. New fuel filter. No codes. Almost a full tank of gas. No smell of fuel in engine compartment. Disconnect MAF, no difference. This started over a week ago. The car would not start on the first try. Always on the second try. Once started the car ran fine, did not stall or hesitate. Then, just once, it almost did not start; I think it was the fourth try it finally started. After that I replaced the fuel filter, just in case. It's been fine for several days. Now this morning, no go
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I got a 05 Passat I am working on. The car was being drove and my customer when to eat lunch. Came out side and didn't start. Got it to my house threw it on the scanner and it brought up 2 cam sensor codes. Replaced them and still nothing. What to try next. The car cranks over fine and it does have fuel pressure and also has spark.
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Had the Excursion out today. Made a stop coming back and used the remote start. I entered the truck and by mistake pressed the brake pedal which shuts off the engine. When I tried to start the truck with the key...it cranks fine but does not start. It'll try to run, sputter...but will not run.
I cannot hear the pump running when the key is turned. It was towed home and it in the driveway. I assume it's the fuel pump....but wondered if the remote start/alarm could be killing the power to the pump? The cut-off switch in the passenger footwell is pressed in. Where do I start:?
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My 2002 Tahoe cranks over fine (new battery), but, will not start. I have checked the fuel pump relay and have control power to energize the relay, but. no switched power from ECM to change relay state. Jumped rely 30/87 and pump runs. No DTC's. Gauge on instrument panel reads no fuel. Scanner shows 56% level. Tried to use my Snapon MT2500 to switch relay state and received error message "generic device control limit exceeded" ECM?
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My 2008 Sonata finally let me down after 4-1/2 years of flawless service. Turned the key, it cranks fine, but won't start. I think it's the fuel pump. It has 63,000 miles now so the bumper-to-bimper warranty is over. Is the fuel pump (if that's it) covered by the 100,000 mile drive train warranty? I checked fuses and they are all fine. I don't know if there is a fuel cutoff switch. It might just be the pump relay...but I want to have it towed, and the choice is dealer or my regular mechanic.
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My 03 GTI 1.8 is having start issues. It cranks up fine, but it sputters to a start. It doesn't idle high and fall down to the 850 mark like normal, it just lugs itself into low idle. I have to then throttle it until it stops sputtering and I have a smooth rev. Then after that, the car runs fine. I can stop it and start it up again fine when it's warmed up. I have checked multiple things already.
-The Ignition coils are in excellent condition
-Spark plugs are normal, but not exactly perfect
-Fuel pump works fine
-Battery was tested and is clean and good
-Throttle Body is clean (at least to the eye, Im cleaning it next)
-Oil was changed when I changed the sensor along with filter.
I should mention I changed the crankshaft position sensor a month ago. The block at least from under the car is filthy, but I don't know if that affects anything.
I had a check engine light, so I got its codes read (I'm out rn, but when I get home I can show you) and decided to just take it to a shop. When I took it, the light went away, decided to start as normal, and the shop just charged a huge fee for the diagnostic and nothing was fixed. I really need to know what to do with this, I daily it every day and its starting to bother me a lot now.
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A friend is stumped by a problem with his truck, so I thought I might get some insight here. I haven't actually seen the truck, all that follows is from what he described, I'm just the messenger here.
The truck had been running fine on a used engine installed about six months ago. Then he ran it out of gas, it hasn't run properly since. It cranks fine, but won't start. He says it WILL start when spraying starter fluid into the throttle body, but only while the starting fluid is supplied. He also says he disconnected the fuel line somewhere near the engine, cranked the engine, and got good fuel supply (but no fuel pressure gauge reading). He's done some logical things: new fuel pump, fuel filter, spark plugs and wires. No luck. Figuring that he'd sucked something ugly into the injectors, he decided to replace those with no change (yes, I cautioned him about throwing expensive parts at it with no clear reason).
He reasons that he must be getting spark based on the engine running with starter fluid, and there must be fuel based on his test with the open fuel line, so he thinks it's an electronic problem, presumably the signal to the injectors. This is out of my league...and my friend is a carpenter, not a mechanic. If he could get a scanner would this kind of problem register a code?
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My 2004 6.0 will not start. It cranks fine. History This happened once before about a year ago towed it into the shop and it stated fine.
The batteries were low yesterday and the truck would not start because the voltage was too low to run the starter. I charged them. Went to try again and I cranked it for close to 30 seconds with no results.
Only cods so far are #6 glow plug and EGR valve open. Whats next, check the FICA?
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My SC430 has been acting weird for a couple months now. I let it set for a month or so and the battery died. I charged it up and it was fine. Now its not starting again. It cranks just fine and all of the electronics seem to be working. I've tried all 3 of my keys. The first time It did this I unhooked the battery and charged it, put it back in and it started and ran fine for a couple weeks. Last week it did it again, took the battery out charged it and it ran for one day. Now its just cranking again. The battery is only a year old, but I think I am going to go ahead and get a new one and see if that works.
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My Mazda has 50k miles on it. I have recently gotten a new job where I park my car in a covered parking garage.When the car is parked in this parking garage It cranks fine but it is slow to start. The car does this odd behavior only inside the parking garage when I am coming home from work. It starts fine in the morning. Recently I did not start it for 2 days, and it cranked up and started just fine. I am not sure what exactly is wrong with it. My other question is how long is too long, is a 4 second start time too long or am I just over thinking this one.
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The Engine cranks over fine, but won't start. When it does start everything is okay and it runs good with no codes. I noticed that by taking the key out of the ignition, I was checking under the hood, and put it back in the truck fired right up. Also it has never done this to the second driver who has a different key. The truck runs fine at all speeds and loads, even when hauling twenty bags of wet mulch. It's a 2001, 4.6 L, RWD. Could the PATS Chip be failing?
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Been having an odd problem with getting my truck to start. Pass couple of days I've gotten out from work and gone to start the truck. It cranks just fine but wont start, acts like there is no gas. Let it for a minute or two and try again and it will start right up and keep running with no other problems. Go to leave for the work the next day and the same issue. Weird thing is the problem only seems to happen when its cold out 30F so or below. I was thinking fuel pump but I'm not sure. What to check?
Edit Its a 2002 Excursion XLT with the gas 5.4
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2001 Ex V-10 4x4. Ran like a top yesterday. Turns over fine but not even a sputter today. Plenty of fuel & battery. Has spark. Tried starting fluid, but nothing. No codes. Checked fuses and relays in dash & under hood. Fast forward an hour...
Went out and tried it again - fired up like nothing ever happened. Plowed snow for the better part of an hour, - ran like a champ again, smooth, no missing or stutters - parked it and shut it off. Tried to start it again within a minute or so and it would start, run rough & die. Tried a few more times with same results. Now it cranks fine but no start, no sputter. Gonna try a fuel filter tomorrow.
If it were the fuel pump, wouldn't it throw a code?
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I have a problem with my Durango whenever i drive my car it is fine and normal. When i get to where I am at and i try to start my car again it will just turn over like it wants to start but doesnt. I just recently started driving the car for about 4 days ago and it drove fine. Until yesterday i got to my shop and tried to start it.. it will just crank. I scanned it and it turned out i had a bad crankshaft sensor. I gone ahead and replace that and the car starts up fine. I drove it around town and then this morning drove it to work and when i tried to leave for lunch it did the same thing. It cranks but does not fire up. I scanned it.. and no codes. My dad was saying something like sometimes it has sparks going to the crank and sometimes it doesn't.
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The car cranks absolutely 100%, in no way is this the battery, it just will not start. Then I noticed the fuel pump wasn't shutting off, I only had a quarter tank in the car, I figured as hot as it was today I was getting some vapor lock with the fuel. Went and got some gas, still wouldn't start, then the dash started yelling at me telling me I have no oil pressure, shut off the car.........car you are not running calm down. So then there's that along with the car not starting. I took the fuel hose off to make sure I was getting fuel, I was, so I took the key back out, but the car would not give up, the fuel pump kept going and the dash was blinking violently. When I put the hose back on and got compression it finally stopped, that can't be how the cars work can it? The fuel pump doesn't shut off if there's no compression? Checked all fuses and the fuel pump relay, every was fine, the fuel pump even still ran with the relay out. What could be going on, I can't seem to find one damn thing even related to the fuel pump not shutting off.
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I have a 2003 Ford Ranger 4X4 4L AUTO. About once every 6 months it will not start. It cranks just fine but doesn't fire. After about 45 min. it start and runs great for an other 6 Months. I have replace the plugs, wires, distributor cap but it hasn't solved the problem. It has had this problem when it is cold and warmed up.
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I have a 2003 Silverado 1500 V6 vin code x with 260000 miles, for about a week now in the morning when its damp out or when it has rained the truck won't start, it cranks fine but will not fire. once it sits for a few hours and everything drys up it fires right up with the first turn of the key.
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My 2001 Accent GS (1.6L DOHC) wouldn't restart after a short 2 mile trip to a local store. The engine cranks fine but doesn't fire.
It has had a CEL issue for awhile and after it wouldn't start I checked the codes and got:
303
335
722
I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and Fuel Filter but it still just turns over.
I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key on and I broke the fuel line and it is Pressurized, so I doubt it is a fuel issue.
The 722 code indicates the output speed sensor has an issue. Need to know definitively if that sensor is completely shot could this prevent the ECU from firing the engine?
I have had this car since it was brand new and I'd like to keep it going a little longer.
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My girlfriend has a 2003 f150 4.6lt pick up its a great truck most of the time. Problem is when the temp gets in the neg double digits it becomes very hard to start it cranks fine but doesnt want to fire. When it does fire it might stall a few times before it stays running. The last cold snap we had I replaced the battery and in the summer the starter got changed. I have heard that this model of truck are known for hard cold starts. I am just wondering if this is true and any other thing besides block heater. It is strange that my 89 gm pickup will start no matter what temp and I'm having problems with the newer truck.
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Went to the store came home no problems. Went out to go to work next morning truck won't start. Cranks just fine just doesn't try to run. Was not getting voltage at ficm replaced board in ficm have correct voltage now but still won't start
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It's a 99 f350 7.3 diesel powerstroke. About 180k miles I think.
It cranks fine. I just changed the glow plugs(all were dead) but when you try and start from cold, it takes about 7-10 seconds to fire. The oil res is full, tried disconnecting the EOP sensor, still fires up and takes just as long. There is one near the oil filter, and that seems to not be it either.
Doesn't smoke, no oil leaks that I know of. Not sure what else to check before sending it to another shop to get put on a diagnostics machine. I read about the IPR, but it has no problems when running. Only problem is a very long time to start. Also changed the fuel filter.
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