I have to wait to shift from park for any where from 2 to 15 minutes after starting the car (1999 passat). Is this a feature or if it is because it is too cold out (it has been around 0 degrees F) or is it an electrical problem???
View 7 RepliesI have an issue with the transmission not allowing me to shift from Park if I drive for couples of minutes unless I re-start the car. Also, if I drive for couples of minutes while I'm putting the cruise control on Standby mode or ON, it will shut off by itself along with the light for the economy driving mode.And again if I re-start the car everything will work.
This video will show you what I'm talking about : [URL] ....
My car is GLS 2011 and has 85,000 miles.
Today, without explanation the shift indicator on the dash on my 98 Passat Wagon highlights all gears. When you shift to any gear. . . . the display does not change. Further, shifting is rough from 'park.'
I noticed this problem after looking at all the fuses to see why the radio was not powering up. I have checked fuses. . . . and unplugged the battery and plugged it back in.
Having an intermittent problem when starting the car.
The car quickly shutting off right after starting while still in Park.
It does not do it all the time, but about every 3rd of 4th start attempt it will do this. If I step on the accelerator, I can avoid the car from shutting off.
The car has 62k miles and spark plugs were replaced at 50k.
So I am hoping this is an easy fix and I'm just missing something. I have a 2012 VW Passat, automatic transmission. My boyfriend, who knows nothing about VW's decided he was going to 'take care' of my 12v's which don't work, they never have since I bought the car at the end of Nov 2014. I found a penny in one of them, probably someone used that area for their change and it dropped in. Regardless they have never worked. I'm actually taking it in for an oil change the end of the week and planned on having the dealer fix it then since I have a warranty still.
I tried a while back, bought some new fuses, but could never find a definite fuse map for my car and wasn't so worried about it that I wanted to risk causing more problems. Anyway, he decided to check my fuses by pulling every one . Now my car won't shift out of park and the dashboard has the ESC light and the engine MIL light are both on and solid. The tire pressure monitoring system Malfunction light is blinking. Just fyi....I did do a 'soft' restart by unhooking the battery, and checked that the brake lights are working. Not sure that these things are even relevant but I was reading a few things and this is as far as I've got.
A friend is having trouble to move his car after he lost his keys. How do you go about shifting the car out of Park? It is a 2008 passat 2.0 Auto,,,,,
View 7 RepliesI have a 99 passat wagon - it hasn't been shifting right - sometimes it won't shift out of park, other times it won't sift out of 1st... we are wondering if it is worth fixing or if we should find a different car...
View 3 RepliesThis is a car i am working on. 01 4motion passat. automatic. Tree fell on it. We put a new roof, quarter, door seats. Last night we moved it outside to clean the shop and went to move it back in. Won't shift out of park. Next tried turning ignition on the backing it off a little and cant get to neutral. Check fuses.
Brake light switch has been previously replaced by someone. and it works. Light next to gear selector working. brake lights fine. I have taken the center console out as much as I can. I can't get it completely out. But everything in there seems ok. When I press the brake in I don't hear any click or anything near the selector.
Went on a road trip over the weekend and had some problems with the A/C. 200 miles into the trip I noticed the fan with the setting on 4 started to get weak and wasn't very cold. After getting stopped for a speeding ticket and sitting idle for 15 minutes, ice chunks starting flying out of the vents. After this happened it was fine.
View 1 RepliesJust went to leave my apartment and I get at the first traffic light and put it into neutral. Light turns green and I try to put it into first and it won't let me... In fact I cannot shift into any gear while the car is started. Put the flashers on and I am stumped. There was also more resistance in the clutch pedal as soon as this happened.
I turned the car off and tried wiggling it into any gear. For some reason while the car is off I can put it into any gear. So I had to put the car in first gear and start it and limp it home. I had to rev the engine to about 2,800 - 3,000 RPMS in order to get the car to bite and take off. Shifting into any other gear while driving was a hassle and it felt like there was a lot of resistance.
Just did some quick Vwvortex recon and some people are saying that it is a broken pressure plate? Pressure plate welds itself to the clutch? Or possibly a throwout bearing? Also what Transmission is in a 2003 Passat 1.8T Engine code AWM.
1992 Buick Park Avenue, Base. For awhile now I've had trouble shifting into park from other gears. Sometimes, it'll flow right into park without trouble. Other times, I have to work it, to kind of baby it in. However, it simply will not shift into park from reverse. Period. If I'm in reverse and want to park, I have to go into drive, neutral, etc, and then try to move it into park.
A mechanic I know looked at the neutral safety switch and thought it could be causing the problem. We figured it wasn't in the steering column or the cable to the switch because if we disconnect the cable, you can slide that lever all day long. So I purchased a new neutral safety switch and had him install it, but the same problem is there. Actually, let me clarify: while it was in his garage, with the old switch, it would no longer go into park at all, regardless (kind of decided to just stop altogether). At least with the new switch we can baby it into park, but it is basically back to where it was last week. He mentioned it might be deeper in the transmission, but that's out of his league.
2004 Toureg with 12,000 Miles. No problems for 5 months. All of a sudden the engine fan has become posessed. When I park - even after 5 min of driving in cool Colorado weather - the fan kicks off and stays on for 10 to 20 min. The sucker is LOUD! I could not find any info on the fan in this forum. Having problems with the engine fan. I called the dealer and he said there no problem. (Also, the blue compas above the mirror was flashing on and off tonight. Bad, but I hope not related.)
View 8 RepliesCruise control engages normally, holds the set speed, but after a few minutes it disengages. It feels that same as when you lightly tap the brake pedal to disconnect the cruise. Bad brake switch or something else?
View 1 RepliesLast night during the East Coast's snow storm, I left my 2004 Prius warming for 10 minutes in park. I have a newborn and wanted the car warm for her. When I got back outside to leave, the Prius had died. The check engine light was on, but that was on before because I need to get the oil changed.
I went to jump start it, but when I opened the hood, I could hear that the engine seemed to still be running - it sounded like the belts were still going. So I was nervous to jump start it with the engine still seemingly on. I waited 30 minutes and that noise stopped.
When I tried to jump start it, I couldn't get the fuse box cover off after an hour of trying at 10PM, in the snow and rain. So I gave up and will try again later today.
I have a 2004 Hyundai Accent with about 120,000 miles on it. Last summer, it started jerking badly from park to 1st and 1st to 2nd for the first five or ten minutes that I drove it. It stopped during the winter (Texas winter, so a mild fall in most places with seasons), the check engine light never came on, and the transmission fluid was fine (both color and volume), so I didn't get it checked out. Now that it's summer again, the jerking has started back up. I've also noticed in the last few weeks weak acceleration after stopping (again, usually only in the first ten minutes or so of driving). And today my check engine light came on.
I've checked the fuses, and I just got my oil changed (they said the check engine light was giving them a transmission code, but didn't elaborate). I have a leaking valve cover gasket and cracked belts that I'll be repairing ASAP. Is it possible that either of those are causing this problem?
Since I'm a single young woman, I don't want to go into a shop without being fully informed (I can't tell you how many times I've been ripped off). My research suggested a couple things:1. It might be the coil packs.2. I might need a new transmission.
Having issues with there Grand AM over heating? I've got a 99 Grand AM SE , & it's over heating. I cannot drive it more then 5 minutes without it starting to over heat. I'm getting no where fast with this vehicle.
View 2 RepliesAs I mentioned in the title, I have a 1999 GMC Suburban with about 150000 miles. I love the car, but lately, it has been acting peculiar immediately after starting it. Whether hot or cold weather, the car will sputter, pop, backfire, buck and generally not get up and go for the first 3-5 minutes the engine is running. I can put the gas to the floor and the car continues to sputter along at about 20 mph - bugging the heck out of drivers behind me. If I do lay on the accelerator, however, the car will rev high RPMs as if it wants to go through the gears behave like it's in neutral.
After about 3 minutes of sputtering, the car will again start accelerating as if nothing is wrong. This happens every time I start it.
I purchased my 92 Silverado in Dec. 2008. Since I got it the temperature control display has been blinking 'A/C' for 2 minutes after starting, than goes away. From the owner's manual and the GM service manual I realize this means there is a problem in the A/C system. I figured that it was low on refrigerant since the compressor clutch would never kick on, that and that is what it typically has been in the past with other older vehicles. After buying the retrofit 134a kit, I recovered the stuff that was in it, then proceeded to add the new stuff.
The pressure kept rising but the clutch never engaged. I looked through the GM service manual and they suggested to do the obvious. Is there power to the wires i.e. the cycling switch and the clutch positive wire. There was not. I inserted a jumper on the cycling wires figuring this would complete the circuit telling me if the switch was bad or not. With jumping the cycling switch I still had nothing, the clutch never engaged. My next thought was well maybe the internal clutch relay or the pump was shot. So I ran a jumper from the positive post of the battery, to the positive post on the clutch relay itself. Then the clutch kicked in, I sucked in the 134a and everything was working. I also did this to the cycling switch, when I added power the clutch engaged and all worked.
This tells me I have an electrical issue and the mechanical stuff should work. I don't believe that it would be the cycling switch because with it jumped it should engage the clutch of the compressor and it did not, In fact it did nothing with a jumper on the cycling wires. I assume that I have an issue elsewhere that is causing a dead spot in the system or else the cycling switch would have power to it.
92 Dakota 3.9L ... Starts and runs great. Engine shuts down, usually within first 30 minutes after starting. No shutter, just as if you turned off the key. It has not been an everyday occurrence.
I can wait 2 minutes or spray brake cleaner in the intake and it will restart. It will run the rest of the day and never happens again on the same day, even with multiple restarts and driving 100 miles.
I have installed a new ASD relay, new fuel pump relay, new fuel pump, new crank sensor and new air valve controller on the intake. They can't seem to catch it when it happens.
OK so my 2003 Nissan maxima is hard to start all the time after its been sitting for a few minutes like 30min or more also I'm getting a CEL light.
See the video : [URL] ....
I've got a 2000 VW Lupo 1.4 automatic (essentially a small version of a VW Polo, sold in Europe). It's got 65000miles on it. The car starts up just fine the first time, summer or winter. If you shut off the motor after a short time, 5 or 10 minutes, restarting it can be a problem. If this happens a third time, starting will be even more difficult. If you drive for awhile restarting is no problem, the pattern starts over again. I've replaced the battery, plugs, gas filter, had the distributor looked at. Restarting became marginally better.
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