Passat (B5) :: Can't Get The Air Pocket Out And Heat Is Barely Coming In
Mar 2, 2011
BMW's have a special way to bleed the system, does the VW passat have on too? Seems like I can't get the air pocket out and heat is barely coming in. I just put a radiator in and all the coolant obviously is gone, so I put new coolant in and the cars been idling for about 30 with the cap off letting air out and heat is barely coming in, am i missing something? Engine temp is NORMAL, in the middle, so NO overheating issues.
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MY 2000 Ford F150 4.2L v6 is running cold. I bought it this summer and it ran a hair above the cold line on the temp gauge. Now that it is cooling off it doesn't come off the cold line. I have drove it for an hour and it never move. The heat is barely warm. I thought it may have been a stuck open thermostat so I changed it out with a 195 and it did not work. I can let the truck run parked for 15 minutes and still be able to grab the hose leading down to the thermo. What is wrong? The guy I bought it from used it to pull a small boat. He said it started running hot when he would pull with it so he had a new radiator, thermo and clutch fan installed. Then he said the truck ran on the colder side. Now the thing just runs plain cold!
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Got a 1995 Toyota Tercel. As the temps have dropped, I have started to use the heat again.
The heat comes on, but not nearly as warm as I remember. And now the temp gauge barely nudges - but does seem to nudge - above stone cold.
I checked the coolant today while the engine was cold. The reservoir is empty but the radiator is filled to the brim.
This isn't the first time this season it has been cold. My best recollection is that, until this week, the heater and the temp gauge had both been working fine.
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The other morning I started my car up and no heat or air would come out of my vents. The night before I had to drive through a blizzard and my car was completely packed with snow. The climate controls function normally, everything is lighting up when i select a button, but no air is coming out of the vents (rear defrost and seat warmers work fine). There is no sound of the blower starting when I turn the air on, hot or cold. I live in Northeast Ohio so we currently have several inches of snow and it's well below freezing outside. I live in an apartment so my car is outside 24/7 between being here and at work. I looked up a bunch of posts on here and other websites to try to figure it out. I ended up taking my cabin filter out and it is completely packed with snow. So i vacuumed out the snow that was left in the cabin filter housing as far as i could reach. I also unpacked as much snow as possible from wheel wells seeing as the HVAC vent goes to there, and the blower still doesn't work.
What I am guessing, which I could be completely wrong, is that the HVAC vent is completely packed with snow and it's not letting the blower turn. I guess my question is does that seem remotely possible or is it something else completely? My climate control doesn't work on the highest setting so I don't think its the relay I read about and my heater has been working fine with no noises or anything and I don't believe it would just go bad out of the blue.
2012 Passat SE 2.5
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I just purchased my first VW. It's a Passat Wolfsburg edition and i truly enjoy it.
Have an issue with radiating heat or hot air coming from the gas and brake pedal area of the car. I've also felt the heat on the passenger's side as well.
I've tried using the fan, but that seems to only circulate the warm air. I've also tried leaving the settings on defrost with the fan off, but heat blows from the dash as well. I don't believe a new car should have this issue.
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As I was driving on the highway yesterday, I noticed an unusual heat coming from my car. I thought it was the air vents at first, but to my surprise, it was coming from the brushed aluminum interior trimming around the navigation and the that plastic piece around the key fob. There was also excessive heat coming from the the gas and brake pedal area. I am wondering what this is and I am worried that it might be an insulation issue.
There is also a very rough idle when I am at a stop on a red light. It got louder recently as there is a weird ticking noise/rattle coming from under the car, by my feet. This is definitely associated with the notorious idle issue on the 3.6 but my stealer cannot identify and replicate the issue.
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My 2001.5 Passat traditionally does not start easily when it is less than 6degrees outside. Today it was that cold..it started easily..but about 30 minutes into my drive to work..I realized it was a little smoky and exhaustish smelling in the car..once I realized it wasn't the car next to me..i realized if I turned off the heat..the smell went away..but at the stoplight..i could see smoke coming from under the hood..out the corner by the passenger/dashboard... Car has 80,000, recent oil change, what it is?
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My car has a misfire shown by autozone codes. I changed the spark plugs so that's not it. A couple of days ago i went to crank it, it wanted to crank. The rpm's were VERY low (didn't really completely crank up...more like a stutter), and there was this really strong SWEET smell that started from the car outside. Should I be looking at the fuel filter as the culprit?...exhaust system?
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Car is burning through a higher than usual amount of oil? I just went to the dealer to do an oil change because the oil was so low I could barely get a reading on the dipstick, no leaks were found, and the car does not smoke.
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This morning my brakes seized up on me on the freeway. I noticed it when I pressed the brake pedal and I it would barely go down. Then, I could smell the brakes. I pulled over and there was a strong smell from the brakes and I couldn't press the brake peddle down any. I waited a while and let the brakes cool off and then they were fine. I got the rear brakes replaced at the dealership earlier this year.
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If I have my key fob and cellphone in the same pocket I can open up the car with no issue by walking up to the vehicle, but when I try to start the vehicle the digital dash says " No Key Detected ". When I separate the key fob from the cell phone then the car can detect the key fob. (if I remove the fob out of my pocket and leave the phone or if I remove the phone and leave the fob it will detect the key and I'm able to start the vehicle).
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I just bought a 2006 Prius with one FOB. How do I know if my 2006 Prius is SKS?The fob unlocks the doors by pushing the button. There is no reaction to the FOB being in my pocket in trying to start the car. Is my FOB non-SKS but my Prius is?
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I have a new to me 2010 Prius. What I'm trying to do (I did it with my 2008 Prius) is to be able to unlock any door from the outside as long as I have my fob in my pocket. I've tried following the directions in the manual but to no avail. I've tried holding lock and unlock on the fob simultaneously for 5 seconds, all doors open shows up on the control panel, but when I approach any door except the drivers door, nothing happens.
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I've got a 2004 Prius and I recently had some body repair done which included having the cloth interior upgraded to leather.
When I picked up my Prius from the shop, the key fob wouldn't work when it was in my pocket. I had to push the unlock key to open the door. Then when I tried to start the car w/ the key in my pocket, it wouldn't start so I had to put the key into the dash to get the car started.
Once I got home, I figured the battery was dead so I replaced it and tried again and got the same results. Then I went around the car testing the passenger door and truck and it's the same thing, it won't unlock w/out pushing the button on the key fob.
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Do all sc have the coin pocket that opens up.I tried sliding mine back but it doesn't open.Is there a trick to opening these up or are some not made to open. what am I doing wrong?
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I have a 08 corvette that allows you to walk away from the car with the fob in your pocket and the car locks without having to touch anything once the fob is a certain many feet away from the car. I like that option and I cannot figure out how to do it on my wife's 2013 RX ( or even if it will work that way)
I don't drive her car that much but it seems inconvenient to have to remember to touch the little depression area on the outside driver handle to lock the car. I know, I could just get used to it , but just walking away without having to do something seems more simple and should be an option in a car of this cost and technology.
Is it possible to program the car to lock all doors when I walk away with the fob and not having to touch anything on the car?
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Assuming the car is locked and the option has been selected, are the driving lights, interior lights, and puddle lights supposed to come on automatically if you approach the car with key in pocket or must you first use fob to unlock the car?
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Have trouble with the drivers side not seating in the bumper pocket? Mine pops out on one corner weekly. I'm not sure if it would come out completely.
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My 98 Corolla won't start, but I have checked battery, fuel pressure, spark, efi relay, and fuses, which are all good. Can't figure what to fix?
Have connected a pocket scanner but I get no codes.
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I just bought a new 2006 prius and have an issue with the FOB (it's pretty beat up from use -- ordered a new housing for it)...
It works great for locking and unlocking the car with the key in pocket, but as soon as I sit down to turn on the car, I get the beep and key icon flashing on the dash and no activity.
Only when I insert the key into the slot will the car turn on. The Key disable button under the steering wheel is not engaged.
Again, it recognizes for locking button and unlocking when I touch the handle, but I have to physically plug it in for the car to start....
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I've been having trouble with the cooling system of my 2005 Kia Sedona (about 90,000 miles) and a couple months back I had the system flushed, coolant added and thermostat replace. Not long after this the overheating started up again. After the first five minutes of driving, the thermostat starts creeping up above the half way mark and within about ten minutes it hits the H. My vents also don't blow heat. After ten minutes the heat SOMETIMES suddenly kicks in after the needle hits H, but it's kind of inconsistent and sometimes I get no heat even after hitting H and sometimes I get a little heat and then it goes away. I only drive it 15 minutes each way so am not sure what would happen if I kept driving.
Anyway, I took it back to the shop and they did a pressure test and said they thought it was a leaky head gasket and that they couldn't do the repair and I should take it to a Kia dealer. I picked it up and on my way home I noticed I was getting heat from the vents immediately and the thermostat stayed at the halfway mark. No overheating. Is it possible they are wrong and the pressure test knocked some air out of the system and that the test actually fixed the problem? Can a pressure test give a false result?
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