Passat (B5) :: CEL On - Car Also Takes A While To Start After Put Gas In It
Dec 19, 2007
I have a 2001.5 v6 passat and it runs good most of the time, but there are moments in which i want to take off quickly and the car doesn't GO.... the engine revs slowly and it begins to move slowly as well... then if i let go of the gas completely for about a second and then step on the accelerator again.... then it will continue to run normal again...
I also have a check engine light on... and the car also takes a while to start after i put gas in it... it needs to be cranked about 4 times until it finally starts.... could this be part of the same problem??
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My AC went out the other day. My wife said it took about 10 to 20 mins to finally start working and blowing cold and the next day it would never ever kick in anymore. Vents are blowing but just a outside temp air, also the a/c light comes on and i hear slightly different idle when ac engaged, however i dont really hear anything happening with the compressor.
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I have a friend who owns a 1.8T Passat, and she is having difficulty starting her car. From what i know, her car takes a VERY LONG time, and many attempts before it turns over and finally starts. Currently it take many more tries to get it started. Her battery seems fine, as the car turns over strong, and all electrics work. Also, after her car starts, she has been noticing that it is underpowered, and vibrates hard. It has been over a year since her spark plugs were changed. Correct me if im wrong, but having a turbo powered engine, do the spark plugs wear out faster then naturally aspirated engines. Am i right to assume that the spark plug is the cause for her car not starting, and vibrating hard after it starts.
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Problems started a few months back. Turned the a/c on and it blew hot air. I didn't think much of it because it started to turn cold after a few minutes. That didn't occur again for a few weeks so I figured it was a fluke.
Over the last few days it now takes 6 -7 minutes for the air to finally cool down. It is way too hot these days to not have instant relief in my car. Luckily it is time for service so I will let the shop worry about what is wrong with it.
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Once my car is warm and say I go to the store to grab some stuff and go and start it it'll start but it'll turn off the RPMs hit 1.5k then the car drops. Like it chokes. But then I go to start it again and it starts up with no problem. This happens 50% of the time after the car is warm and I go and start it. What could it be?
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No codes, no obvious troubles other than, when I use the power window control on my 99 passat to control the driver side rear window, I have to hold the button down sometimes for 1 second, sometimes for 15 seconds before it actually moves. If I try to operate the window from the actual button on that door( the rear door), it works fine with no hesitation or sticking. No, the safety lock is not on. I am guessing it is something electronic but as there are no burnt fuses or damaged wires, I am left confused.
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My wife's 2007 4-cylinder Camry has 174,000 miles and has been a great car. Recently however the car has become harder to start. The engine cranks fine but it either starts right up or it will just crank. I've learned that if it doesn't start normally, I stop cranking and try to start again. Sometimes it takes up to 4 attempts then it starts normally. It seems like it either gets the fuel and starts correctly or it's not getting fuel and cannot start.
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I have a 1997 Celica ST 1.8 liter. Over the past month, it has developed an issue with starting up. It takes several attempts to start up- sometimes it works and sometimes it doesn't. Once its started up, it runs fine. It usually has no problems starting back up as long as I don't wait any longer than 8-12 hours. Once I get passed that mark, it gives me trouble all over again. Some days it won't start at all, regardless of how many times I try or how long I try for. Now going on day 3 of it not starting at all, turns over and sounds like it's trying, but just won't do it.
The second I stop or turn the key off, it makes a noise like it was going to try to start; however, never actually does. It's a very weird thing. I've talked to a ton of people and a few thought it had to be the crankshaft position sensor. But, I just don't think that's spot on. I've done quite a bit of research and personally think it's the cold start injector or something along those lines.
Another thing I just remembered.. I read that cold start injectors are usually on older cars only, not sure if that's true or not because I read a problem on a 2003 that was a cold start injector, which could have just been a site with bad info. But having a separate injector for "cold start" threw me off in the first place. And what I see on my car that I'm thinking is it, is solely based off a few diagrams and pictures I have seen.
Just tried to hand choke it, way closer to starting than it has been the last 3 days. Tried to give it a little gas, but still didn't start. Thought I had it a few times there. Also, noticed some oil sitting on below the engine, but on part of my car not the ground. To the left if I was standing looking under the hood. Between the bumper and the engine, closer to the engine.
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I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 (made in Japan) with 195,000 KM on it and noticed that the car would crank for several seconds before it catches and starts. I have replaced the air filter, changed the spark plugs at 190K, use premium fuel and this is still happening. I have not replaced the spark plug wires as I was told at the time that it was not necessary. I notice that this seems to happen when my car is in the garage at temps above 0 degrees Celsius. When my vehicle is parked outside in a cold winter day, it seems to start quicker.
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I got a 2010 sonata, just outside of the warranty with 60,400 miles. as of today these problems arose out of nowhere. the husband had trouble starting the vehicle today and got a check engine light. someone came, jumped it, and was good to go.
Well he comes home on break after 20 mins & goes to start the engine again and it takes 2-3 times to actually start. it's seems to be more difficult the longer it sits; if you turn it off and start it again it's less hesitant. we then replace the old battery that happens to be bad as well, with a relatively new one from my car and have the same problem. no more check engine- but it's still hesitating.
Possible starter problem? is something loose?
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So I just recently got a 2005 GLI and I have been taking care of all the maintenance first before I start modding it. But there is one thing that I can't seem to figure out and I have searched but can't find this exact problem anywhere. My problem is I will have to turn the key several times before it starts, it does turn over but will not start until about the 4th or 5th attempt. This will happen maybe once a day but sometimes it will be fine all day long. Also the ESP light comes on once the car starts but doesn't come on if the car starts normally. Now I have seen people saying ABS/speed sensor might be bad if the ESP light comes on but mine isn't always on. Just when I have trouble starting it and then it goes off once I turn the car off and back on.
For those that don't feel like reading:
- Car sometimes (once in a day or two) turns over 4,5 times before it starts
- ESP light comes on when it has trouble starting
And of course, here is a picture of the new-to-me ride .....
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I drive an '04 Passat and I've recently noticed that my AC is not functioning properly. It takes forever to get somewhat cold and the air flow seems diminished. I used to get freezing cold within minutes after setting it to an air flow of "1" and putting it at the coldest setting. Now, I can drive home and sweat for the whole 30 minute trip with it set to an air flow setting of "4" at the coldest setting. It's not as bad in the morning because it's much cooler, but it's killing me in the afternoon/evening.
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OK, so I recently purchased this car. When I turn the AC on, it literally takes 5-10 minutes for the ac to turn cold. Just the other day, I turned it on and nothing happen. The heat or the AC didn't kick on. Nothing was coming from the vents. What could be going on?
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My 05 wagon's a/c seems to be acting up. It takes about 30 minutes of running the a/c before it blows cold air. It's under warranty so I'll be taking it in.
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Every morning 1.8T idles high when warming up usually takes a minute or two to idle down. When your running late kind of annoying when I drive before idle goes down to normal brakes seem way to responsive and jerky...
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Having issues starting the car when it's cold. Sometimes it takes me 2 or 3 tries to crank the car.
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Revo stage 2 --1.8t ... For the past few days I have tried to figure this issue out I am having with my 337. The car takes 2 or 3 times to start from being cold. Once its started it has no issue it drives awesome, pulls hard no codes when vag com'd. Can start it up anytime with ease for the rest of the day. Tried doing to solve:
-I have pretty new coilpacks---FSI- they are ok
-Spark plugs are 3 months old --checked those
-Checked Battery and its all normal and no issue
-Cleaned the throttle body = No change
-Installed new CTS yesturday (green) < no change
-Cleaned the MaF = NO change in start up but car runs way smoother
-Put in new Filter= No major change
-Did the Crank sensor under a month ago (Bosch)
I have a few more things on my list to check :
1. Fuel pump relay
2. Fuel Pressure Reg
3. ECU relay/ check immobilizer
4. Fuel Pump
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The colder it gets the harder it takes to start my 2000 Ford Explorer. Have read that it's the Intake Air Temperature Sensor.
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92 Ford Ranger. She starts right away when I first start her up for the day, or after several hours of sitting. But when I start running errands, it takes 2 or 3 turns and sometimes goosing the gas to get her to start. She's not overheating, the fluids are good, and she doesn't act like she wants to die when idling. So I'm quite confused as to what is happening. I asked my dad what it could be and he's unsure as well. What could be wrong before I take her to a mechanic or start replacing stuff on it myself and spend more money than I need too.
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When I start my truck after it has been sitting for a while... I.E. Everything is cold. It takes about 2-3 seconds for the alternator to start putting out voltage (the lights are dim, and the voltmeter on the dash registers about 11 volts). My question is: Am I running on borrowed time and should I change out the alternator, or is there another underlying problem I should be looking for? OR... is this normal; I've never seen this before.
2002 s10 p/u 4cyl stick shift ..
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I have a 2006 V6 Sonata that takes its time to get started. It will crank great, but after a few seconds of trying and no starting, I turn the key to the off position and try it again. Most of the time the car will start on the second attempt, but sometimes it requires a third attempt. Here are the facts as I have observed them:
-I cannot hear the fuel pump engage until a split second before the car actually starts.
-There are no RPMs until the fuel pump engages and the car starts.
-The engine runs really rough for a second while the car initially starts and runs.
-When the car is running, it's really smooth. Like, brand new car smooth.
-This issue happens no matter the time of the day or the temperature of the engine.
-The fuse for the fuel pump is fine.
-The fuel pump relay is fine. I know this because I swapped the horn relay with the fuel pump relay and nothing changed with the starting issue and the horn still worked great.
-A friend used a jumper in the fuel pump relay to see if the fuel pump would engage and it did.
-Have not used a fuel pressure gauge as we did not have one on hand.
Is there anything else to check besides using the fuel pressure gauge? Have you run into this same issue? If so, what was the cure? I'm averaging about 20 MPG with mostly city driving. Is that normal for the 2006 V6?
Recent work included new spark plugs, a new gasket somewhere because it was weeping oil there (I think it was the part of the engine that you have to remove in order to get to a couple of the plugs), and the idler pulley thingy and it's belt.
The starting issue started before I got this work done. I took it to a repair shop because of the starting issue and they found these other problems. The funny thing is, they claim that the car started perfectly fine for them every time, which is pretty hard to believe. When I picked the car up from the shop, I tried starting it, it didn't start, but the mechanic was right there to see my issue first hand.
My thinking is that the fuel pump is fine because when it does finally start, the engine runs smooth as silk. I love how when I'm going 80 MPH, just a slight amount of pressure on the gas pedal and I'm up to a hundred in no time flat. I love this Hyundai V6. Now if I can just get it starting normally.
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