Passat (B5) :: CEL Flashed Several Times And Car Started To Sputter
Apr 8, 2009
So, I got in my car this morning, it started fine, no CEL, pulled out onto the main road and while while accelerating, it started to sputter and the CEL flashed several times. I turned back into my neighborhood, expecting it to stall, but it didn't. I sat there for a second, it was running fine, but I felt a few slight rumbles while idling, enough to make me nervous, but not enough to prevent me from continuing to work (I'm out of PTO).
So, I continued on, no CEL, accelerated and the sputtering happened again, slowed down, lightly pressed the gas pedal and it was fine. I made it to work. I just got the APR programming on Monday. I ordered the TT225 diverter valve.
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I had the transmission filter and fluid changed at the local VW dealership had some issues with that but they straightened that out and its been fine for a while well then about 2 or 3 weeks ago i was trying to mess with an audi and hit the gas (has the 6 speed auto tranny) and the car kinda stuttered and the check engine light flashed probably 4 or 5 times then went off, it did that a few times after that then my wife was driving it and it did that stutter again and the light stayed on, the code said misfire on cylinder 2..
So I replaced the plugs today and it did fine at first but when i got to about 55-60 and went to speed up and it started to miss pretty bad then steadied out and sped up. no check engine light or anything but it was missing.
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So I was driving home from when my engine started to sputter once it hit 4000 rpm and the CEL came on so I figured it was my plugs and coils, I changed all of those and unplugged my battery to get the CEL to go away, now all of a sudden my computer is crazy, I have a lot of indicators and my gears indicators are all highlighted, when I start the car and put in it gear is shifts really hard, I just don't know what to do!
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While driving tonight I was making a right turn and I heard two short beeps and my interior light flashed on and off two times. This happened three more times after stopping and when I put my foot on the gas again the interior light came on and then off again, no flashing or no beeps.
I just hit my 16,000 mile mark on my 2014 Prius C two.
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Code 0341 (cam sensor?)On my way home epc light flashed about 5-7 times and message saying service engine. 111,000 miles and just had intake manifold replaced and plugs and coils not to long ago. I have been feeling a slight hiccup at cruising speed and twice my gti has just shut off while driving. New fuel filter as well. I searched the forum and didn't come up with anything specific. Can I just replace the cam sensor or is there more to it than that.
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The oil was changed by a highly reputable shop 2 days ago, (45 miles ago). My wife noticed today that the "Low Oil Pressure" red message flashed 3 times in the last 5 miles of her 10 mile trip (45-50 mph). She stopped the car and called me. I arrived at the parked Prius and saw no oil on the dipstick. I poured a quart of synthetic in and looked under the car to see it pouring out. My finger discovered that there was No Oil Plug. I called the shop and they sent a tow truck, put a new oil plug in, refilled the oil and claim no damage since "the Prius shuts off the gas engine when low oil pressure is sensed". Looking for information about this "shut off feature?" What should I ask from the shop? What should be tested & checked for? How do you test for damage to the bearings? How about a compression test? The car has 100K miles.
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I have a 2005 Accent Manual, and my check engine light came on a little while ago. So far since then, my car has started to hesitate, and sputter at times. It just doesn't run like it used to. I have owned this car for four years, and it now has 117000 miles on it. I went in to one of the automotive stores in my area, and after telling the gentleman that works there about my car, he sold me some spark plugs, and spark plug wires, because I have never replaced them for as long as I have owned the vehicle. I did and it still sputters and what not. So I went back in and they hooked up their machine to my car and printed off these codes:
P2401
P2419
P2405
P0036
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I most recently drove my 2006 Prius around on Saturday Feb. 1, with no problems at all. I went out of town for a couple of days, and returned this afternoon to a car that will not start. I stepped on the brake, pushed Power, and things lit up, the "Ready" light flashed a few times but then went off. Power button light stayed orange.
Several warning lights on dash stayed on (!)/ABS/VSC/traction control, and a message came on the screen saying something about a problem with "P" parking, and that it should be parked level and the parking brake applied. It is sitting level with the parking brake applied already. Also, the door ajar warning light and beep start as soon as you open the car door to get in.
I'm thinking from what I've read that my 12v battery has died/is dying. I'm the original owner, bought car in March 2006, and it has just under 61,000 miles on it.
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I was driving my Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4 wheel drive single cab when it sputtered a couple of times I came to a stop light and the car stopped I tried starting it to no avail. I also noticed I did not hear the fuel pump run as normal when truck is in accessory position . When my buddy showed up I had him try and start the truck as I banged on the gas tank and it would run when I stopped so did the truck...
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So yesterday my car was running as fine as it always has. Then today came around...Car started fine, shifted into first and second fine, but when I hit 3rd it started to sputter in the low rpm's. Around 3000 it picks up a bit. This then continued happening through all of the gears. I noticed that the engine light was flashing for a few seconds and then went away completely. It still putters, struggles, and shakes when accelerating in the low rpms but its not throwing any codes. I know there are a few things it could be i.e. vacuum pump, bad coils or plugs, are maybe something more serious (fuel pump maybe?). I'm at a loss, especially since the car is throwing no codes (so there is nothing to scan for). I was hoping vortex could give me somewhere to start on this, I don't have a VAGcom so getting it scanned means $$$ and I want to get a start on the problem before I go that route. Here's some basic info:
Its at 182,XXX miles. Its never thrown any engine light or cel code in the 2 years 40,000+ miles i've owned it. I run 0w 40 eurpean car formula oil through it every 3-5k. I run seafoam through it every 6 months. I'm NOT sure when the last time the coils have been replaced.
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This car started to stall sputter. I replaced the ignition module and it worked for while then nothing at all but still cranks. I checked all of the fuses and every thing was working. What I have found and i think this was the whole problem. The wiring harness that goes from the ignition module to the crank sensor, the wires were twisted and frayed and most likely grounding out on the frame and making the computer to shut down. So far after replacing the wires it started right up. Have not had a chance to take it for a test run to re learn the computer because my brake line busted.
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I have a 2002 chrysler town and country van. The check eng. light came on about 6mths ago but did not affect the way it ran, but tonight my wife was driving in it after filling the gas and started to sputter slow at slow speeds and really sputters at higher speeds. should i be looking for water in the fuel.
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Tonite on the drive home it was about 10 F and once my car was up to temp, I put my foot into it, I felt the car hesitate a bit, the CEL flashed a few times and went off. Could the cold temp cause that or is it more likely a bad coil?
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Something strange happened this morning and I can't find anything .
Got out of the car (2007) and locked it with the remote. The alarm light flashed quickly multiple times, almost like something was wrong, door not closed tight, etc. The doors locked, but it would not give me the audible beep that it normally does. Went around and opened and closed all doors and trunk to make sure they were closed tight, and they were.
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I was driving my car when suddenly I felt a huge shudder and my engine light flashed on. I turned a corner to head into a parking lot and as I accelerated my car seemed to be jerking like it was cutting out. I parked and tried revving it and it sounds all deep and gurgly not smooth. What could be wrong and is it safe to drive the 5 miles back to my house.
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99 grand am,v-6 SE-2.my car has recently started to stall at times. Mostly in the afternoon when it is hotter. Runs for about 20 min. and then looses power and stalls. Will not restart unless I turn the key off and back on. Sometimes I have to do this about 10 times before it stays running. Each time I turn it back on the fuel pump pumps up within seconds. Stalls at idle and at part throttle. When it starts to stall you can here it sucking air big time. When it runs it runs great.there are no codes. Once it starts to stall it never recovers, just takes longer sometimes.
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My daughter's 2006 Nissan Altima with 160K miles on it and in generally great shape will not start.Tuesday evening she noticed the a/c wasn’t blowing cold air, then “steam” coming up from window vents. She made it to my son’s place (a few miles) and one of his roommates discovered her radiator was dry. They filled it with water, let the car cool, ran it on idle and all seemed fine. She drove home (20 mi.) and no issues with temp. Wednesday morning the car would not start. She said it started several times then would die.
Wednesday evening I tried to start the car and it would turn but not start. While pumping the gas rapidly I was able to finally get it to start and it ran well. I stopped and started it several times. I then let it sit for about 4 hours and tried to restart it and it would not. It turns, but doesn’t start (no issue with battery or apparently starter). I thought it might be the fuel pump due to the way it started, but not sure how to tell if it is getting fuel?Could it be the water pump due to the overheating? I would think the car would still start if it was, but not sure?
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Sometimes when I go to start the car, I have to turn the ignition anywhere from 1 to 6 times to get the car to start. It doesn't matter if the engine is cold or hot. I hear the engine trying to start, after like 5 sec, I stop so I don't burn the starter up. The battery is fine, there are no fault codes. Recently it seems like its taking more times turning the ignition to get the car started. Sometimes, its the first time, other time its not.
Its an 2003, I4 with 76k on it.
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i have a 1998 passat 1.8t and in the past week my car started a slight sputter when i get on the gas and it gradually got worse the car starts up fine and idles perfect i did a compression check all 4 cylinders are exactly 150 psi now the problem just got worse when i go to leave a light or when im cruising down the highway and grt on it it sputters or and like pops or backfires outta the exhaust i just replaced the fuel filter and i still have the problem im stumped
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My wifes 2012 camry se just started having the maintenance light start blinking. it blinks 8 times when started then stays off. I check the manual but couldn't find any answers to what it means. Whats going on?
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Past few mornings, I had a bit of trouble starting my 2002 Passat V6 (60K miles); car would start, and sputter. After a few times of this, the car would eventually turn over, and would be a little rough once I put it in gear for the first few hundred feet or so.
Brought it up to North Penn VW in Colmar, and the service tech said it had to do with the ethanol in fuel settling to the bottom of the tank, and not being potent enough to fire the engine, and normal acceleration would be enough to burn this stuff out of the lines and/or where the gas and ethanol would mix.
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