Passat (B5) :: CEL Accompanied With Engine Codes
Jan 30, 2008
I just got a 2000 V6 Passat Wagon. The CEL light was on when I got it though I bought it knowing this. The battery was bad when I got it and I replaced it. After installing the new battery . . .. . starting worked only intermittently. It got worse and at one point I had to hold the key to the start position for about 5 seconds before the starter would even engage. Now it won't start at all. I pulled the codes (shown below) when I first got it but did not give it much credence . . . I wanted to clear the codes and drive it and re-look at the codes. . . . but I have not been able to drive it.
Other observances. . .. not sure if they are related to the car not starting:
Windows, sunroof do not roll up/down while electronic locks work. The driver side window was down when I got it and I read somewhere on this forum to use the key to raise it. . .. it worked. Alarm does not work. Radio works. . . . I found it odd that though the battery was taken out for more than 12 hrs. . . . The radio code was not required. Dome light works intermittently.
I have checked every fuse and they are all good.
Engine Codes:
18032P1624MIL Request Sign.active
18011P1603Internal Control Module Malfunction
18010P1602Power Supply (B+) Terminal 30 Low Voltage
16684P0300Random/Multiple Cylinder Misfire Detected
16690P0306Cyl.6 Misfire Detected
16686P0302Cyl.2 Misfire Detected
Transmission Codes:
17142P0758Shift Solenoid B Electrical
18158P1750Power Supply Voltage Low Voltage
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I'm the orgional owner of a 2001 Passat 1.8T with manual transmission...It has 93,000 miles on it.
Last week, the check engine light came on and a "Emissions Workshop!" message light came on. It was on for a few days,then disappeared for a few days,only to come back.
I took it to Autozone for a reading. Here's the results:
"The PCM has determined that during testing,the fuel system for bank 1 was too lean.
Definition: Fuel trim bank one condition
Explanation: The powertrain control module uses the oxygen sensor to calculate the air/fuel ratio of the engine.
The computer has recognized a rich or lean condition on one engine bank only.
Probable Causes:1. If bank one and two codes set together fuel pressure or MAF Sensor
2. Oxygen sensor defective
3. Ignition misfire-repair
4. Fuel injector repair.
Someone here asked if my oil was recently changed-It was.
Driveability hasn't been affected,nor has mpg. The car drives as normal.
I need to go on a 1,000 mile trip in a few days,and don't think I'll have time to have the car serviced.
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Basically when I'm coming into my driveway (I turn to the right into it) I hit with the right front first and get this shuddering sound accompanied by a sloppy feeling in the steering wheel.
Sounds like the old door stop Springs. I sometimes get it as well when hitting bumps with either side at a time but not when hitting speed bumps or bumps where both wheels hit at the same time.
Went to the dealership but they couldn't reproduce it on the newly built read that's as smooth as glass.....
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I have about 2500 miles on my manual MK7 GTI (bought it with about 70 dealership miles) and ever since I got it it's been having these weird little backfires/slight sputtering while idling.
I'll be idling at a stoplight, and I'll feel a few little kicks/vibrations underneath my seat accompanied with a light engine shake. It's very hard to describe, but it's been bothering me since I got it, as none of my other cars have done it and I don't know what is causing it.
I have always pumped 93 octane gas and even made sure the dealership pumped 93 octane when they gave me the free tank. Not sure what they pumped before that.
I went to a Mobil gas station last night to top off my tank (a little under 1/2 full) and no later than 5 minutes after pulling away from the gas station, I was cruising in 4th gear at around 40-45 mph when I felt the engine sputter. It was only for a brief second or two, but I clearly felt the engine sputter then pick itself back up. This happened another 2-3 times on the way home.
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Ok here's the problem. I have a 2003 grand prix se 3.1 and a 1998 grand prix gtp series II sc. Both have the exact same problem running and both had overheating issues prior to. I can start either one on a given day while cold and drive them as if nothing is wrong. But soon as either one hits operating temp, I start to hear what sounds like a rattling or sputtering like sound from under the hood, accompanied with a sudden loss of power and then the engine shuts off. Now yesterday I attempted further diagnostics with the se model GP. I let it idle rather than driving it this time, and it ran perfectly fine for about 20 mins, started to make the aforementioned noise, I revved the engine to about 2000 rpm and it kept it from cutting off and smoothed, but the second I let up, it was off and wouldn't restart till it was cooled off. Same goes for the gtp. I'm really stumped on this one.
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Where do I start, 97 Passat VR6 Wolfsburg Edit, 01M trans with AAA engine. 140000 miles. Here is what it is doing! Starts and runs fine.....until I stop, turn the car off, let the fans cool the engine, and then try to start it up again. Then All breaks loose. Car is running rich, almost dieing, sputtering, throws ALL sorts of engine and transmission codes. Everything from MAF sensor to misfire to trans solenoids, I mean the codes are all across the board.Then I can take my generic scanner and reset the CEL and all is good for a couple of miles.
Now, here is what I have done to the car:Tranny: new synthetic oil and filter, removed, cleaned and replaced the valve body with new solenoids, and complete wiring harness, NEW Transmission Control Module. All new 3 New trans sensors, 1 Trans Speed Sensor and 2 other sensors, g38 and g68 i think.
Engine: New, Bosh,Synthetic Oil and filter, New Ignition Switch and Key and tumbler.New Valve Cover Gasket,Bosh, Plugs and New Bosh Plug Wires., Brand New Vw ignition, Brand New Bosh, Auxiliary Water Pump and rubber gromets. New tires,...Pulled floor pan carpet out and dried up mat after the rain where my daughter left the passenger side window and sunroof open. I will try to drive it today without turning any of the lights on the dash on to see if possibly I have an electrical issue with the dash and lights or something.
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I bought a 1999(b5) passat, 1.8t(AEB) 5spd, came with a DIRTY K&N so i cleaned it with the cleaning kit....
Car drove fine, then: started it up after an hour or so.. it was idling rough, then would spike(17-1800), idle rough, idle fine, spike....etc. just random. it went away for a few minutes, so i tried to drive it home... got 1/8 mile into 3rd... and car just bogged down so i slowed to stop and turn, went to go, it was idling rough so i couldnt drive, just "hobble" into parking lot.... i let run, more random rough, spike, fine... so i let it sit, off. when i returned, it was the same, but now CEL light on...
Codes: P0103 - Mass or Volume air flow sensor circuit high input
P0134 - Heated Oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 1 (H02s11) sensor circuit no activity detected
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I have a 2006 passat and the check engine light came on so I performed a scan, the results are below. fault codes... which ones would need to be repaired immediately?
VCDS Version: Release 805.1
Data version: 20080823
Tuesday,06,March,2012,18:12:35:26365
Chassis Type: 3C0
Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 15 16 17 19 1C 25 42 44 46 52 53 56 62 65 72
VIN: WVWAK73C86P106340 Mileage: 107910km/67052miles
00-Steering Angle Sensor -- Status: OK 0000
01-Engine -- Status: Malfunction 0010
[Code] ....
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Check engine light came on yesterday evening. Advance read the codes as P0100 and P0171. The guy said something that it may be related to the mass air flow sensor. The car seems to run fine.
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Ok so we have yet again the engine light on...we did a test and we have the codes P2004 and P0642. What can it be the problem this time??? what can cause this codes and is it expensive to fix? We just fix the care a couple of weeks ago( codes P0507 and P0171) and we are sooo tired of having problems.
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I just bought a 2000 VW passat with 63k. I had it for a week and check engine light came on. 30 v engine ....
p0431 /16815 bank 1 below threshold??
p0421/16805 bank 2 below threshold??
Cat? or 02 sensors???
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The check engine light on my 1999 1.8T Passat is on. It started with a little miss right after startup. Then in neutral, after revving the engine to say 1,500 rpm and letting off the gas, it would nearly stall. I plugged in an OBDII analyzer and came up with codes P0102 MAF or VAF circuit low input and P0304, Cylinder #2 misfire. I replaced the spark plugs, as they were old anyway. Still the same symptoms. Then I replaced the mass air flow sensor.
The check engine light still went on after it was cleared, except this time it was P0302, Cylinder #2 misfire, P0102, P1613, Auxiliary inputs aux. outputs control, and P1426 Mfg. Control/auxiliary emission controls. Soon after, the car started running fine on it's own and I again cleared the codes.
Then a day later, the check engine light is on. This time, it is only the P1426 - Manufacturer control auxiliary emission controls. The Bentley manual calls it Tank Vent. Valve Open, which doesn't mean anything to me and the Bentley manual is of no luck. (The error code almost implies that it is the famous loose gas cap, but I have checked that - unless the gasket is bad). FYI: I have 99K miles on the car.
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I was just driving and the engine check light appeared. The screen says Emission workshop. its a 2001 B5 passat V6 Manual. I used a code reader and it read P1120 and P0154. Are these codes serious? Can I still drive around? What should I do?
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This morning I started my car and it was idling a little rough. The the Check Engine light began flashing - I immediately turned off the car and consulted this forum and my father the mechanic. After talking with my Dad and telling him that the car had sat for a week, he thought the issue was probably NOT the catalytic converter and thought it was probably related to the car sitting and possibly getting moisture in the gas. I started the car again (the roughness at idle seemed to have gone away) but the check engine light/malfunction indicator light (MIL) did not flash, it did come back on after a few seconds, but as a solid light . And as we've all read, it's OK to drive with a solid MIL.
I took the car over to Autozone and had the codes checked - P0300 (multiple cylinder miss fire) and P0301 (cylinder 1 misfire). I asked them to clear the codes. I has just put in new NGK spark plugs last month, so I didn't think it would be the plugs. I looked at a new coil pack for one of the cylinders. I decided to see if clearing the codes alone would work and drove home. No issues so far, no MIL, no rough idle, no hesitation (fingers crossed).
When I called the stearleship - they recommended I have the car towed, but would not speculate as to what the flashing MIL could be (catalytic converter or bad coil pack(s))...
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I just had my check engine light come on and checked the codes and they were P1136 running rich at idle and P1250 low fuel level. My fuel level is 3/4 full and I just installed a K&N panel filter in the airbox. While I was installing the filter I also cleaned the mass airfow sensor and then cleared the codes. The codes have come back after 2 days.
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Car dumbie back again with another question.The diagnostic for my check engine light indicates numerous cold start misfire codes. The cylinders are OK. That was checked during the diagnostic.The fuel intake is carboned up. It is recommended that I clean the intake manifold. Does this mean cleaning the fuel injectors, the throttle body or both? 2006 Passat VW....
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My CR-V 2005 ( 190,000 miles) got a CEL on ( Nov, 2014)( Colorado). Dealer's scan showed code: P0139 : O2 sensor 2( downstream) slow response( Dec,11,14). I took my car to a shop close to my house for replacement of O2 sensor. After replacement, the machinist told me, my sensor( new) " still stuck full rich". he suggest if my CEL is on with same code ( P 0139), I'll need to change the Catalytic Converter ( Jan, 8, 2015). So far my CEL has been on & off 3 times ( by itself) with the same code P0139.
1st time was 2 days after the replacement, just almost a minute before the empty -gas-tank light was on, and off 3 days later. Ten days after that, CEL was on, just before I filled up my empty gas tank, and off 2 day later. The 3rd time was 3 days after the 2nd, my gas tank is half empty. I decide to fill up the tank and started my car, CEL was off right away. I talk to my mechanist( Jan,28,15), he said My Converter is borderline ,still needs to be replaced. My car has been running OK before, during & after the CEL on & off.
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Got a 1997 Mitsubishi Mirage with this code 0420. Only had car a while. It has always had a hesitation accompanied by the CEL coming on and then going out. Might happen twice a trip and then not occur for weeks. Previous owner said they failed an emissions because he cleared a set code(not told to me). The car dives fine and gas mileage seems to be fine. Car does use about a quart of oil over a 3000 mile oil change. It also has/had a rattle similar to an exhaust baffle...the rattle is not an every trip occurrence either.
Had Autozone check for code and was told catalytic converter needed to be replaced. There are no emissions in my state but I would like to know any opinions on my problem and any issues with driving car without repair. I think I want to clear code by disconnecting battery cable and see if it returns but not that would be a good idea. Also considered buying a scan tool with live data to see if there is another issue that might not involve replacing the catalytic converter. Previous owner also mentioned a hissing when removing gas cap and he bought another cap but the I still notice the hissing.
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Recently I had a warning light accompanied by the ICE shutting down. P0121. As the repair, the throttle body was cleaned.
A week or two later, while in Park with the parking brake engaged, I got another warning light along with some text on the display, something about parking brake. I didn't completely absorb the message before powering off, waiting, then powering on. No more warning light.
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So here is my situation, back in September I had to replace my passenger side cv axle on my 99' Mk IV Jetta and ever since then I have had a vibration whenever I exceed speeds over 70. This vibration is accompanied with a droning sound that gets louder the faster I go. But the weird part is all of this only happens when I am accelerating. If I push in the clutch or take my foot off of the accelerator it goes away immediately. Since all that started (for other reasons I might add) I have replaced the tires, both front ball joints, the driver side steering knuckle and both front struts.
Additionally and I'm not sure if this is related but it does seem coincidental. The muffler bumps on the body when I'm accelerating as well, but only after the exhaust has warmed up. I am at a loss. When the tires were installed they did a balance on the wheels and they didn't say anything about the wheels being bent or "out of round".
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So I have a 2000 Oldsmobile Intrigue with about 190k miles. It currently has an overheating problem but first I'll discuss some history:
-It had a previous overheating problem a few months ago that was accompanied by bubbling sounds. We diagnosed this as boiling coolant because the system was not pressurizing due to a leak in the reservoir. We fixed the reservoir leak and pressure tested it to find that the leak was repaired. The bubbling noises stopped and the car no longer overheated.
-The car was then underheating nearly all the time. We diagnosed this as a broken thermostat, probably killed by the overheating that was caused by the leak in the reservoir. We replaced the thermostat and bled/burped the system and now the car does not underheat.
Now the car operates around the half-temp mark and stays very regular except in traffic or parked in the driveway. So it overheats when it is idling. You can rev up the engine in these cases and see the temp gauge fall back down, so it is dependent on RPM only and not on the actual traveling speed of the car. Also at this time the car supplies nice heat to the cabin.
Things to exclude:The electric fans seem to be working fine and they switch on and off supplying a good deal of wind.The system was bled/burped.The system has a new thermostat.The system does not leak based on a pressure test.The system has enough coolant.The system supplies good heat to the cabin.
My guess is that there is a clog/general grossness inside the system someplace or that the water pump is starting to fail?
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