Passat (B5) :: CCM Damage / Gas Cap Lid Won't Open Hitting The Switch
Jul 5, 2009
2000 Passat 2.8L. The start of the problem happened when my gas cap lid would not open hitting the switch thus causing me to strip down the lining in the trunk and manually opening the cap by pumping the actuator body. At the time that was the only problem. I couldn't find the source of the problem so I open the cover for the fuse panel and tried to see if I had a blown fuse. I tested all the fuses and they were all fine.
A few weeks later I drive home from work one night, and since I didn't work the next day Sunday, I didn't find out until Monday that my car would not crank. My father said it might have been the battery so he tried to jump it with his car but still no luck. We even tried pushing the car to its start (my car's stick) and put it in second gear and still no luck. My uncle a mechanic said the starter relay was probably faulty so we checked that out. After taking out relay 185 which is in the 12th spot on the B5 relay panel, we thought it might have been the cause since when we removed the cap and wiggled the components a bit, the car would indeed start. This led us to believe that there could be a possible electrical problem that isn't allowing the relay to work on its own.
We then head on over to the VW dealership which is about 5 minutes from my house and they said it could be the relay, or it could be a damaged CCM and told us to check if the driver floor carpet was wet. We stripped down the carpet and indeed the carpet was wet on the inside along with the wires leading to the CCM. We took out the CCM though and appears as though it was dry and not damaged so I think we're okay with that.
We tried to find where the water came from and he said something about the drain hole under the battery and when he said that I remembered that there was a little water on the car battery after it rained which I thought should not occur. We removed the car battery and noticed that the drain hole was completely clogged and there was water seeping through other holes which is how the carpet got wet. So anyway, my uncle modified relay 185 somehow so that I could atleast get the engine to run. However, the power windows still do not work, interior lights do not work, side view mirrors do not work, sunroof does not work, trunk/gas cap lid do not work, remote button, and all other interior lights do not work despite being able to drive the vehicle. The parts and service guy at the dealer said to replace the CCM could be 600 plus the time to install/program it.
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I have a 2001 Passat with a trunk that has been stuck shut for over a year. Three different repair men have tried to fix it but they can't get into the trunk since it is locked shut - they also cannot remove back seat to get into the trunk. One wanted to cut a hole into the car behind my license plate to get into it! I can hear the motor that usually releases the trunk but it doesn't open by the key or the switch.
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So last night I go to pick up my daughter and the doors are unlocked but her door won't open. I try from the outside and no luck. I get in the back on the driver's side and the lock button is on. I open the door with some difficulty and it opens. It's been fine since.
Today I tried to open that window and the window wouldn't open from my console or from the rear passenger side switch.
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As the title states, I need to know where that damn switch/sensor that tells the car that the rear hatch is open. Since I got the car, the hatch has been wonky at best when trying to close that hatch via the button. I figured it was going to need a new switch, however I just noticed something today.
I opened the hatch and the rear dome light came on. Pressed the button and it closed no problem. I opened it again a few minutes later and the light never came on. Tried to close it with the button again and it didn't work. And then it all made sense. The sensor that tells the car that the hatch is open is either gummed up or just needs replacing. So where exactly is this thing?
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I'm unable to open my trunk door with the remote, using the key, or with the switch on the drivers side door. I am also pretty sure it is not frozen shut. Will I need to switch out the complete latch assembly or just need to wd-40 something? This is for a 2000 Passat 1.8T Sedan.
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So on my 2001 passat v6 the trunk wont open with the switch on the driver door for some reason and it seems the previous owner wanted to fix it and instead messed up and now the rear driver side door wont open even when its "unlocked".
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I have a 3.6 SEL Premium. Can I put regular unleaded gas in it, or will it damage the VR6 engine?
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i dont have to much money right now to buy a new starter but possibly in a week or so. Will this damage anything on my car???
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I recently broke a timing belt on my 1999 AEB 1.8t Passat. I'm in the process of doing all of the repairs myself while working around my college and work schedule. I have yet to pull the head off, and I'm scared of what I'll find when I do. Should I expect any piston damage? I have one completely broken valve and a bunch of bent valves.
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Car started acting up the other week. I had my AGM battery replaced and that solved 99% of my problems.
Gas Cap - The switch inside of my car does not open the gas cap, I have to go in through the trunk. Do you think this is switch related or do you think this is actuator related?
Trunk Switch - The button on the bottom edge inside of my trunk does not work. Does this switch need to be replaced?
Driver Side Door Tumbler - When I go to manually unlock my car, I do not feel any force back on my key.
Do I need a new manual tumbler to unlock my car? Could a circuit just be unplugged?Right Side Wiper Blade - It just isn't working, but the left one is. Do I need a new motor or relay?
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My Phaeton has been in the shop for about a week because the trunk will not open with the switch on the door. The key will open it, but no the door switch. They said it was hard to fix because there is no wire running from the switch to the trunk. Is it just another one of the many "secrets" of the Phaeton.
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My car is an 06 2.0T that has about 91k miles on it. Haven't had many issues with it ever until now. It feels like my car is hitting something or hit a pot hole, specifically the rear wheels. In fact the first time it happened I pulled over to see what I hit, but didn't find anything. There doesn't seem to be much of a pattern, on the highway, in the neighborhoods, at stop lights/stop signs. Usually happens in 2s, the first being stronger than the second. It is so jolting that the first time it happened at a stop light I thought I had been rear ended. At first it was every few weeks, but now it is about once a week.
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So i haven't used my top for awhile because it's been really hot in texas. I tried it for the first time today and I can't even get the open close switch to blink red? I did a ecu reset by unplugging the battery for 30 minutes nothing. I check the fuses in the trunk and they were all good. I did install the VIas awhile back but I don't think it could be the temp control? I'm assuming if it wasn't plugged in all the way the AC and other functions would not work.
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Tried to open the rear hatch with the key. No lights flashing. No beep.... Dead.
Tried to open it with the switch under the steering wheel. No lights flashing. No beep.... Dead.
I have an appointment at Lexus but this sounds like warranty stuff to me -- sudden death of rear hatch? Lexus informed me there is no manual way to open the trunk. Can I somehow manually open the trunk?
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2007 GS350 48K miles
I don't hear the motor lock the trunk either. I can open it with a broom handle through the back seat ok or with the actual metal key, but pressing the button on the remote or next to the steering wheel does nothing. I checked the fuse, and the glove box switch.
Anything else I can try? It's no worry since its still under warranty, but if it's something simple it would save me the trip.
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I purchased a 2006 V-8 several months ago, and am enjoying it greatly. One thing I noticed after I bought the car is that the cabin trunk switch does not work to open the trunk. I was not too concerned since the key switch worked, so I figured I'd get the dealer to fix it when I next took it in for servicing. Well, now the trunk button won't work on any of my keys either. I think I may have held the button down too long and then it froze after trying again several times. So the bottom line is that I cannot open the trunk. Just to be clear the trunk is closed, so any remedy that requires that the trunk be open is impractical.
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Mk IV Jetta. Central locking works fine. All other CCM functions are fine. Replaced CCM recently serial numbers match. When I hit the switch on the door nothing at all happens. When I use the key button the lights flash twice but no other activity. No broken wires between the body and the trunk lid. Actuator works when tested with a 9v battery.
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We just upgraded our Prius from Gen 3 to Gen 3....a 2012. Great ride, just drove it from SoCal on a Sierra Mtns road trip, a little hiking and snowboarding for our spring break. What we failed to notice upon purchase was a passenger door whose controls want work! The drivers door can lock the car and operate the passenger window and lock. However, the passenger door switch won't open or close the window, nor will it lock the door. All other doors and locks work normally.
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I have the problem of over boosting and hitting limp mode. now does that mean i adjusted the actuator wrong when putting it back on? if so how do i adjust it properly. or is there something else i can do to make the car come out of limp mode? also since it is boosting past a certain psi should i put a mbc on it and adjust it down?
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Just picked up a 2005 and the hatch glass will not open. Tried everything that I have read on here and on ClubTouareg. It has to be the fuse or something. Pressing the button on the remote does nothing and neither does the switch on the driver's side door.
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2001 excursion 4'4 V10 XLT.
One or more of my door switches is stuck in open position. Door ajar light on and interior lights on.
Interior lights stay on for about 15 min than go off.
I have sprayed all 4 doors and both rear hatch lock assemblies several times with WD40 and electrical cleaner with no improvement.
When I open drivers door there is no key chime with key in cylinder. Could the hood switch cause this issue? How do I determine which door/doors is/are the offending crimimals?
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