Wierd new noise from my brakes - No issue when I press the pedal, and they work just fine. However just as I'm about to come to a complete stop the brakes feel like the ABS starts kicking in. I can make it not stop by lightly pumping the brakes but this can't be right. What it could be. I just had CV boot replace if that could have done something.
View 1 RepliesI have this truck (in signature below) that I have not driven for ~3 years. As I am starting to drive it I am noticing I need to put A LOT of pressure on my brake pedal to get the brakes to work. They stop the truck and the pedal doesn't feel soft as if there is air in the line but it feels as if I apply a lot of pressure and there isn't a lot of grab.
While it might be possible, I don't think I have any type of glaze or coating on my brakes that would cause this. 95% of those 3 years, the truck was inside.
I wonder if it feels as if the truck is hard to stop because of the additional power I have coming from this new motor?
Is there any type of part I can replace in the brake booster to adjust the pedal? Or brake booster. Maybe that is going bad?
I have a 2000 silverado. When I come to a stop, sometimes the anti-lock brakes will kick in. it makes that all too familiar grinding/clicking sound that I hear all winter. However, it is happening during the summer/fall. It doesn't happen every time I brake. It seems to happen most when I am coming to a stop on an uphill or downhill grade, or when I am stopping while turning. It doesn't happen the whole time while braking, just right at the end before the vehicle stops. It also seems to happen more frequently when it is warmer out. The tires don't skid while it is stopping either, which I guess is supposed to happen. It is a concern since it does take me a bit longer to stop when the anti-lock is going, and I never can predict when it will happen.
View 3 RepliesI just recently bought an R about a month ago. I am having a problem with my brakes. It seems that every time I hit the brakes and come to a complete stop my brakes scream with this annoying squeaky sound ... My car has a little over 800 miles haven't driven hard, or dogged the car just been taking it nice and smooth for a proper break in.
View 20 RepliesI notice the brakes are very grabby right before you come to a complete stop. This seems to occur more when this brakes are cold. Is this typical with the gen 2's? Mine in a 2005 if that makes a difference. So far with 2k miles on the car I'm not a big fan of the brakes, but everything else I love.
View 19 RepliesI have a 2000 F-350 dually. I am having an intermittent problem with the the OD light. The symptoms are after coming to a complete stop the OD light starts flashing and when trying to move forward it feels as if the brakes are dragging and sometimes stalls out the engine. The codes read with a Superchip 1705 are p1670,p0720, and P0503. When I shift into park, the engine rpms jump from idle to about 1500-1600. I have replaced both the differential VSS and the transmission OSS but still have the same problem.
View 4 RepliesMy brakes are making a noise like a belt slipping when I'm at a complete stop. The noise only happens when I'm at a stop, brakes work fine. Lift my foot off the brake, noise goes away. Seems to be coming from front drivers side. What should I look for?
View 7 Repliesthe other day i was driving with no music on my GS and i noticed every time i came to a complete stop, the brakes would produce a weird loud knock sound. it was rainning so i thought it would be from that... but then after driving it roughly 5-7miles the sound stopped... then since i noticed it, i hoped on my corolla to see if it had the same thing but no... only on my GS.. is this normal?
View 5 RepliesI am the owner of a 1996 Toyota 4runner. Recently, when I bring the vehicle to a complete stop, the entire SUV shudders, almost lunges, forward. At times it feels like the brakes are trying to re-engage. Could really use some pointers on this issue.
View 6 RepliesWhen coming to a complete stop, whether from 5 mph or 50 mph. After I've been stopped for about 2 - 3 seconds, the transmission feels like it gives a little jerk. It feels something like a car coming out of gear without the clutch pushed in (not quite that severe but that's the general feeling).
View 9 RepliesI have this horrible metal clunking noise coming off of my front end. I just had new brakes put on the car and the mechanic said everything looked good around the assembly. But now when I am approaching to stop, right as I apply a bit more pressure to the brakes before stopping, I get a soft clunk inside the car... but I feel it through the pedal. When the windows are down and I am going slow enough, I can hear it clink (clink, not clunk). It's a very metal on metal sound.... I thought of my control arms, however there is no sound what-so-ever when I steer left to right....
View 4 RepliesI got new brakes pu ton lats month (semi-metalic). Any way I was driving to work and it was raining , roads were wet and my car was shifting weird after coming to a complete stop. once i went it would shift into first gear hard. I took it to a mechanic but he couldn't find a problem.
Then it was fine, no problem but today it was raining an dmy car did the same thing. Anytime I went when a light turned green or his the gas after being at a stop sign. the car would stutter as it shifted into first gear. like it would go , then act like it was stuck and then shift
It has only happened twice and its both been raining. Also my tires are really really bad.
Could it be the tires aren't gripping the road and that's why my cars shifting funny, like the tires aren't caught up?
I'm the proud owner of a 2005 MK4 1.8t gti, and recently it started making a weird sound when it starts kicking in to boost, where it would normally make a whistle sound while the turbo spools up it now makes a sound that reminds me of a supercharged car, it feels like it could be a leak but I don't have an ecl popping up, it does kind of platoes in the powerband, I hope I'm making some sense ..
View 24 RepliesI just bought my first 2001 Ford Excursion! It has 170k on it.
Question 1 - When I ease into acceleration, my truck starts kicking/ jerking. But if I step on the gas to punch it, it gets up and goes, no kick. While the kick/ jerking happens, the tack doesn't move and the speedometer don't do anything abnormal! What that might be?
Question 2 - this truck came with a VHS player in it, and it doesn't work. The VCR is turning on, but not the screen. Is there a certain way to turn the screen on?
The brakes on my 2002 Camry work. They have never been stellar, they never "kicked in" as quickly as on my mom's 2006 Camry but they do work.So I am pulling into a parking spot and I hit the brakes as I am stopping there, and they just didn't kick in, there was a little rattling heard but they didn't really kick in.It happened again today as I was pulling into my drive way, it's not something I can reliably repeat, but it's happened again, and it has me concerned.
2002's are not supposed to have brakes issues of the kind 2007s and later did I thought? What could the cause of this be, the brakes are not totally worn out or else I would hear that all the time...
Lately, when I make a slight turn at fast speeds (i.e. freeway exit ramp), my car makes a sound like the anti-lock brakes are kicking in without me even touching the brakes. This doesn't happen all the time and can happen on the smoothest/driest of surfaces. More confirmation of ABS kicking in is the fact that the car slows down when I hear the noise.
I took the car to the dealership to investigate/fix this noise. The dealership said that the cause was uneven tread wear on the two front wheels (5/32 difference). This sounds like bologna to me. What do you think?
P.S. the car is a 2006 VW Jetta 2.0T
The car is a 2002 VW Jetta, automatic 1.8t GLS. 146k miles on it. Has an external amp/sub wired up by my brother who is an MECP certified tech and has been doing car audio and overall Audi/VW for years.
I was driving, nothing out of the usual, this car is my daily. Stopped because of traffic and my car died in the middle of traffic, the gauges (tach, speedo, gas, etc) spiked immediately, which I assumed meant loss of electricity, but my radio, headlights and everything else stayed on. The oil and Battery lights came on as well. Tried to start it, it was trying to start, and was cranking quickly, but wouldn't turn over. I got it out of traffic. I pulled my amp power and the car turned over and started driving like normal, so i figured there had been a short in the wire and that was what caused my issue. Drove about a half mile down the road, car shut off again, car said it needed oil this time. checked the oil, there was plenty, but i put more in to be safe, and it turned right over and i managed to drive it about 30 minutes and got it back to my house.
So, my brother and i look the car over, couldn't find anything really wrong with it, so we took it out for a drive, no problem at all for the first few minutes of driving. Car shuts off again, doing the same thing, but just the battery light came on. My brother jumped my car, it turned over, but as i started to drive it, it was a lot more rough with shifting (possibly tied to electrical problems because i know there is a solenoid cluster for automatic transmissions), i mean you could actually hear the gears shifting and the car was kicking through each gear, as well as my driver side headlight not turning on (just installed brand new xantec 6k 55w HIDs, but i dont think those are the problem because the problem started before i installed the HIDs) and died 3 more times before i got it home, having to jump the car every single time with symptoms the same as the first time it died without the oil light. Another thing i noticed is that the car seemed to only die when i hit the brakes and the car went to low RPMs, which lead me to believe a major vacuum leak. At idle the car also seemed like it was misfiring even though the CEL was not flashing, it just had the jerking feeling and sound of misfiring.
My brother and i take a better look into the bay area, and noticed that the top of my engine was covered in oil, from the intake manifold back. I know my car has been leaking oil, but not spraying it. We pulled everything apart, totally cleaned the engine bay area out including MAF, spark plugs, coil packs etc. The engine bay area looked practically brand new. Now i do know that my car has had a vacuum leak (no boost gauge to tell how bad, but the brakes were a little bit less responsive and the car was acting as though it was misfiring despite the fact that the coil packs and spark plugs are brand new) and we couldn't find where it was, and we thought that maybe that was the problem. A lot of the vacuum line was dry rotted and falling apart and some parts weren't even connected anymore from that, which we replaced all of the line we could find to eliminate the idea of a vacuum leak causing the car to die when i hit the brakes. We also tested the battery with a multi-meter which read variably between 13.8-14 V, which if i understand correctly is within normal range, but oddly enough we put the battery through a stress test including turning on defrosted, turning sound system back on, headlights on etc, and the voltage didn't read much different, still bouncing between 13.8-14.
When tearing things apart, we also found that the starter solenoid was unbelievably loose due to a bad transmission mount, and one bolt was missing, so we were thinking that could be arcing causing the problems, but when the solenoid was tightened down, the problems still persisted.
Started the car, let it warm up, and it seemed perfectly fine. I drove it into town without problems, but forgot my wallet at home, so i had to turn around and go back. Almost made it home, the car died while stopping at a stop sign. Tried turning it back over, nothing the first 3 times, let it sit for about 5 minutes and the car turned right over as if nothing was wrong. Died again when i made it into my driveway about 0.5 miles away and the symptoms repeated until the car finally just turns on like normal now, but the idle is at 1100 RPMS (not sure if related or not) even though the car is at the optimal temperature. I tried driving it again after the car starts normally like it does now, but it just repeats the symptoms that it has been, cutting off but leaving the stereo, headlights etc on. I managed to get it back in my driveway.
I have a 1995 Ford Ranger 4 cyl w/ hydraulic clutch, about 95k miles, and an intermittent problem. Normally, my clutch works fine, but a few times a year, normally during the summer, and normally only after driving for a half hour or more, it starts to act up. First, the pedal starts to feel a little spongy. Then, I'll depress the clutch, and when I release it, the peddle comes up, but the clutch does not engage; a few seconds later, the clutch engages fully instantaneously, which usually stalls the engine if I am stopped.
Then, when I try to reengage the clutch so that I can restart the engine, the clutch is very stiff, and I have to pump it a few times, at which time it will depress easily, and then I am usually back to the original problem where the peddle comes up but the clutch does not engage. When I finally make it home and the truck sits for awhile, the clutch then works fine again. I think it is the orig clutch. I have talked to several mechanics about this problem (including the Ford garage!), and they are mystified. One mechanic thinks that it is a problem with the master and slave cylinder combo, and can replace them.
This is on my g/f's 04 silverado 2x2 started about a month ago. Light comes on after rolling a few feet and right after hearing the abs pump run for a second. Then the light pops on, but the brakes feel fine. Only thing I tried so far is to clean the ground wires under the drivers seat but it's still doing it. I know when my sensor(s) went bad on my 00 the abs pump would kick on when stopping! not fun at all, but like I said it stops fine, just the little pump hum then the light.
View 4 RepliesHad a problem with squealing brakes? My brakes squeal awfully when I am in stop and go traffic (in dry weather). Taken it to the dealer 2x and they've told me it will just do due to the pad having metal in it. I just have a hard time believing that my just over 1 year old car squeals like a dump truck..
View 9 RepliesI have had neuspeed p-flo intake on my Passat for about 2 months now and I still can't manage to get the brakes to completely stop vibrating. I know it keeps rubbing up against the master brake cylinder, but how I should put it/ anything I can do to fix it?
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