Passat (B5) :: Brake Lights Not Coming On When Hit The Pedal
Aug 1, 2006
Ok, so my brake lights don't come on when I hit the pedal, but the instrument cluster does. I checked the fuses and they're fine.
View 1 RepliesOk, so my brake lights don't come on when I hit the pedal, but the instrument cluster does. I checked the fuses and they're fine.
View 1 RepliesThe brake lights come on in the rear after i park the car. it appears the brake pedal is not springing back for enough to disengage the brake lights. It does not do this all the time, but seems to have start doing this at night when it gets colder. I can look outside and see my brake lights on, then go off, then come back on. It has made the battery go dead twice in the last week. is this a easy fix or something more complicated. this has nothing to do with parking brake, i normally do engage parking brake since i park on a flat surface road in front of my home.
View 6 RepliesI just purchased my first VW. It's a Passat Wolfsburg edition and i truly enjoy it.
Have an issue with radiating heat or hot air coming from the gas and brake pedal area of the car. I've also felt the heat on the passenger's side as well.
I've tried using the fan, but that seems to only circulate the warm air. I've also tried leaving the settings on defrost with the fan off, but heat blows from the dash as well. I don't believe a new car should have this issue.
I drive a 1991 F-150 Lariat Extended Cab. Out of the blue, my brakes decided they didn't want to work unless the pedal is about 1/2 - 3/4 of the way down to the floor. As soon as I release past that 1/2 mark, they shut off. While this makes it great for tailgaters, it does not make it great for police officers.
We have already replaced the switch thinking maybe it was that, but alas it was not. I was reading in a couple difference places about the multiswitch? However, the symptoms other people had were similar, but not the same. I never tilt my steering wheel, so I dont know if that's the issue!
I recently installed an aftermarket rear spoiler with third light. While searching and testing for a hot brake wire to hook up to, I somehow accidentally shorted out the brake lights. They will not come on when i step on the brake pedal.
I checked the corresponding fuse and it is still intact. The brake light symbol on the dash is "on" so I know the "brake light out" sensor is still working....is there something im missing in getting the brake lights to work again ?
My car sat for 3 months and then I tried to start it. When I turn the ignition on, everything looks fine until I hit the brake pedal and the dash lights dim. If I don't press the brake, the dash light dim when I turn the ignition to crank. Either way the starter either clicks or doesn't do anything and I hear a humming sound. My husband said, "The battery has been charged and measures 12.62 volts," but the cigarette lighter voltage measures 12.26, so they are not the same. I have tried jumping it and I still get clicks.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2009 Camry and both brake lights don't illuminate when I press the brake pedal but during night time driving, the red tailights are on indicating the bulbs aren't burnt. The third brake light on the top behind the rear seats does illuminate. By the way my tailights aren't the fancy LED ones just the normal stock bulbs. So what's the problem here? Is it a electrical issue?
View 2 RepliesMy Gen I Prius is screeching at me with the BRAKE and ABS lights on, and I hear the electrically actuated pump pulsing as it tries to get pressure into the system. The pedal is spongy and will go all the way down, with the right amount of exerted pressure from my foot.
View 6 RepliesNoticed when I press brake pedal brake lights does not work even the center one. Checked all fused in the car and the small ones under the hood. All fine. I have a long trip tomorrow. Where else i can look. Everything seems working. Reverse light is fine. Is that related to latest brake light switch recall? Cant think of anything else.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 Excursion 4x4 Limited 6.0 diesel. I had someone pull alongside me today and tell me my brake lights were out. Sure enough. I double checked and nothing at both lower lights and also nothing at the third brake.
So... here's the short version of the things I've checked so far:
1. no brake lights when pedal depressed.
2. running lights work fine
3. turn signals work fine
4. hazards work fine
5. brake lights DO illuminate when I press the brake button on my trailer brake controller
6. checked power to the green with red tracer wire going to the brake light switch on the pedal. 12 v present continuously
7. checked power to light green wire. 12 v present when pedal is depressed. 0 v when pedal is released.
8. checked power to tail lights (wish I had tried the trailer brake controller sooner, this step would have been unnecessary). voltage present (I think 10-12 v) when the running lights were turned on. 0 v when brake pedal depressed. I suspect now that I would have 12 v when squeezing my trailer brake controller button.
I was pretty convinced it was the brake switch at the pedal. But since I'm seeing the voltage pass through the light green wire when depressed.... I know the wiring to the lights are good because they work when pressing the trailer brake controller button.
So... Do I need to dig into the multifunction switch that I've been reading about? Does the power go from the pedal switch to the multifunction, then to the trailer brake controller? I'm really hoping that I don't have to dig into the column to check that multifunction switch!
I have a 2005 4.2 with 89k 4wd. The brake pedal occasionally goes farther towards the floor when coming to the end of a stop. I have bled the brake lines. All brake pads, rotors, and lines are good. Could it still be air in the lines?
View 13 RepliesIt seems about once a week the rubber cover that goes over the food pedal for the parking brake comes off. I've been careful to replace it correctly but it still keeps happening? Btw it's a 2010 v with atp ...
View 9 RepliesSo for the past few weeks, i was getting this weird vibration coming from my brake pedal.. When I am about at 40 mph driving and braking or even when I am slowing down with out braking it vibrates.. I checked my wheel bearings.. I don't think that it.. since my steering wheel is not shaking when i brake, i think my rear rotors would be warped..
Also my idle is weird on my car.. I switched my coils and plugs.. it jumps.. really slightly and there is a big one.. when I opened my hood up there is this weird noise like a rattling noise and that is when the idle jumps up and down.. something like this [URL]....
I've noticed, lately on my girlfriend's 2013 with auto trans, when the brake pedal is down, and then pumped, I can hear and feel a click coming through the shifter. It happens in all gears.
View 12 RepliesHow much distance there is between the Gas pedal and the Brake pedal? I did some measuring and notice that you need to lift you foot 5.5 cm from the gas pedal to the brake pedal. In contrast my BMW X3 gas and brake pedal are only 4.5cm. (Yes metric, you do the math). I am always hitting the side of the brake pedal whenever I move to it. I've since removed the rubber cover off the brake pedal and place some strips of anti-slip tape. Now instead of 5.5 cm it's about 4.7 cm (just about where the BMW is, give or take). Feels more normal and I'm hitting the side of the brake pedal less. Works for me.
View 8 Replies2005 with 110K miles. Had oil change about 2K miles ago, tires rotated about 1K miles ago. I was at a stop light when I felt a little movement in the brake pedal and the lights all came on. Brakes continued to work, but somewhat harder to push the pedal. When first applying the brakes, there was a very slight wandering of the car, which was easy to correct.
I drove the car home and turned it off. About an hour later I started it and the problem was gone. I took it to an independent garage the next day. Their scan tool found C1357 -- decrease pressure solenoid fault -- but could not go further into sub codes. They recommended that I take it to dealer.
I have just purchased a VW GTI 337 with 194k on the odometer. The car has a few issues, I have listed the issues by importance. The car came with a stage III ARP turbo kit installed. I just don't know if it's the stage III or stage III+. The car seems to be running okay but it seems like it's lacking the power. Meaning that I should be feeling more. Could it be that car seems to be in some sort of limp mode?
1. The car surges when I am at the low and mid pedal. But, not when I am wide open throttle. Seems like to me that the car is hesitating until I give it a lot of gas. I have changed spark plugs and coils have been replaced by VW dealer for free.
2. ABS light is on and stays on, does not blink just stays on.
3. ASR button will not work. When pressed in it will not light up or show that its activated.
4. Left brake pad or sensor is not plugged in because it's missing the connection. Looks like someone cut it off for some sort of reason.
5. A light that has a triangle with a circle surrounding it, is on. The light is in the cluster.
6. The front brake pads light is on, this is also in the cluster.
2004 with 214000 miles. Brake pedal goes to the floor, red dash lights are flashing, I just added a container of brake fluid and still no pressure at the pedal. I'm guessing master cylinder.
My question is: Even though my brake pedal goes directly to the floor, how am I getting the car to stop at the very end of the push? Do the brakes somehow work as a fail-safe even the the hydrolics are basically toast? I know that's a long shot, but it wouldn't be the first time I've been shocked over systems in this car.
So I changed out my front brakes and rotors on my 03 camry le, and I noticed the driver side pads are more worn out than the passenger side. Also when im driving highway and coming off I notice some vibration in the brake pedal, its not all the time though. Do you think my caliper is partially sticking? I can manually push the piston on the caliper piston using a clamp.
View 4 RepliesA month ago my ESC light started coming on and the dealership replaced the brake pedal switch per the recall.
Here in the last week or so, I've noticed the brake pedal is very sensitive now and will sometimes stick causing the brake lights to say on after the car is turned off.
Pushing on the pedal just a little bit (pushing down maybe less than 1/8") will cause the brake lights to turn on and also kick the cruse control off.
I'm taking out the brake booster and i need to know how to take off the booster from the brake pedal...
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