Passat (B5) :: Brake Light Is Not Always Going Out When Take Foot Off The Pedal
Oct 23, 2006
I have just replaced the front pads and discs on my car. a 2000 115 tdi sport. Now I have a problem - the brake light is not always going out when you take your foot off the pedal. And it feels like the brakes are binding, but when you jack it up the wheels are all running freely ...
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I just bought a 2013 Passat SE 2.5 about a month ago. Since driving it home I have noticed that the brake pedal sort of sticks when I let my foot up off it. It doesn't happen during hard braking, just normal to light, especially when I'm riding the brake in heavy traffic. When I lightly press the pedal in, it feels like something is sticking and again when I let off it has the same feeling and it will sometimes not come up with my foot, but it rather slaps/taps the bottom of my foot while returning to position.
I took the car back to the dealer to check out and of course the service tech didn't feel what I felt. So the let me drive a loaner Passat, same model, and I felt the SAME sensation in its brake pedal. At the time I just chalked it up to "that just must be how these are", but it's kind of annoying and I don't totally feel it's right. What is causing this?
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My friend has a prius and had her brake pedal sawed off modification. Funny cause she says that her foot is always slipping off the brakes now. It was always a bogus fix, to fix nothing caused by errant drivers.
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I have a 2002 F250 4 whl drive 7,3 L Diesel with auto tranny. It refuses to run unless the foot is on the brake pedal. I have replaced the brake stop switch and A L L the fuel filters. It will start at times and idle near perfect and at other times it will start and then stop. When it does idle there is not a skip but when you put it in drive it shuts down unless you keep your foot on the brake. I think I only have 2 hairs on me head I have not pulled out
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When I take my foot off the brake pedal quickly, like after a stoplight has turned green, the brake pedal makes a “clump!” sound. I have looked at the pedal mechanism and it is for sure coming from that area. It sounds as if a rubber bumper should be there, but is not. When I take my foot off more slowly, no sound comes from the area. Is this something I need to put on my 5K checkup list? My car has 1700 miles on it now.
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I drove my 2005 Prius 2 hours and parked it for 5 hours. No problems on the trip down. I got back in it and it started up just fine. I was sitting in the parking lot with my foot on the brake (hadn't moved yet) and the following occurred:
The brake pedal seemed to push back on my foot
The red exclamation point illuminated
The yellow exclamation point illuminated
The ABS light illuminated
The VSC light illuminated
The red parking brake light illuminated (not shown)
All of these lights point to the skid ECU. It seems like my skid ECU is toast or something called the ABS & BA & TRAC & VSC Actuator is an issue (never heard of it but I see it connected to the skid ECU). I did a visual check of what I could and everything seemed in order. I pulled a bunch of fuses and I didn't notice any that were blown. (I didn't pull them all but will tomorrow)
After not finding anything, I drove back home. As expected, I had no regen but the bigger problem was that I had no power assist on the brakes. A few times I actually did skid and the car brakes really bad without regen or power assist. If it was raining or snowing I could definitely see a hazardous situation.
I'm kind of at a loss here. Tomorrow I'll pull the kick panel down and see if the skid ECU is getting power but I can't think of anything else that would cause this situation.
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After driving in the rain and starting the car again after a few hours (as in starting the car again after work, or starting it first thing in the morning) the following happens: As soon as I release my foot from the brake pedal to go into "drive," there is a "thunk" sound from the rear of the car as well as a lurch. A soft "thunk" may have a soft 'thunk" sound, but a louder thunk will have a pronounced lurch/jerkiness from the rear. The car drives OK and has no problem with braking when I apply the brakes.
It happens only after driving in the rain. The dealer says the sound and movement are the normal result with disc brakes wearing off the rust on the rotors. Other wet weather concern (happened once): while driving in a couple inches of snow, the brakes began to grind and eventually failed to bring the car to a stop. Dealer rotated the rear rotors (due to uneven wear, although I had the car only two weeks at the time) and installed new rear brake pads. He said grinding brakes on an Elantra are normal in rainy, snowy, and dusty conditions. Is my car really safe to drive? Is there a problem? I'm considering trading it it as I don't feel safe. It is an otherwise OK car.
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I have a 2004 Treg with 28k miles. This car has the air suspension and the dashboard with the LCD display.
When the foot pedal break is released, the break light remains on and the center display sounds off the alarm that the foot break is on as the car begins to roll.
After half dozen additional pulls of the break release handle, the issue goes away. This is now happening almost every time the foot break is used.
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I just got my car back from discount tire. Every time I accelerate above about 45 mph the traction light goes off Also, There is a shimmy in the brake pedal under braking.
NOW: there is ONE tire that is SMALLER than the rest that they put on or something. It is a different tire, same company, but obviously a bit smaller. Now, they told me it would be fine, despite my better judgement that It would preform weird as well as look slightly gimp. the tire went from driver rear to passenger front, and I'm willing to bet that is the cause of both problems. What should I do?
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I have a brand new 2010 Passat. I am unable to achieve a smooth start from stops and the car will lurch forward when I take my foot off the brake. Any small input from the gas pedal produces a jumpy start to the acceleration process. I have about 300 miles on the car. I bought this for my wife and she is very uneasy about driving it.
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I'm getting this warning light coming up frequently - it's the same light that appears when I engage the foot brake.
Does this mean something thing is about to catastrophically fail?
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For those of you who have not purchased a new car for a while and are considering doing so in the near future I want to share the recent service experience I had for my 2015 Jeep Cherokee. I don't know if my experience was typical but I suspect it is.
I took my Jeep to the dealer for a routine service (LOF and tire rotation). The total time at the dealer was about 4 hours. Of that time, about 2 1/2 or 3 hours was spent in updating the software for the various computers. It had never occurred to me that computers were that pervasive in new cars.
Attendant to that, my Jeep has the 3.2L V6 engine, which comes with start/stop technology (when you stop at a stop light the engine shuts off and restarts when you take your foot off the brake). After the service was completed I noticed the start/stop function had stopped working. I contacted the dealer. The customer service representative spoke with the service technician, who contacted Chrysler. It seems that all of the software updates (there were a total of 6 of them) may take 3-7 days to become fully integrated into the system. I was told to wait a few days to see if the problem rectified. Sure enough, when I drove it today it had.
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I own a 04 Grand Cherokee and have recently had problems with my passenger side brake light. Now the light itself does work under normal running light conditions, but when I go to press the brake pedal it doesn't engage the bright brake light. Drivers side works fine and so do all my other lights, I replaced the bulb to no avail, and am now currently looking into replacing the bulb socket.
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How much distance there is between the Gas pedal and the Brake pedal? I did some measuring and notice that you need to lift you foot 5.5 cm from the gas pedal to the brake pedal. In contrast my BMW X3 gas and brake pedal are only 4.5cm. (Yes metric, you do the math). I am always hitting the side of the brake pedal whenever I move to it. I've since removed the rubber cover off the brake pedal and place some strips of anti-slip tape. Now instead of 5.5 cm it's about 4.7 cm (just about where the BMW is, give or take). Feels more normal and I'm hitting the side of the brake pedal less. Works for me.
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I am a shoe size 10 and when my foot is in some positions over the gas pedal I can feel my toes bump up against something hard. Upon further investigations it seems this is the metal hanger which the gas pedal sits on. I'm not sure anything can fix this issue but I am certainly considering replacing the pedals.
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I started having issues with my clutch pedal "dropping out" from under my foot. Not necessarily during a shift. It still works but will stay down towards the bottom of the travel and after either lifting with my toe or pressing it a few times it kicks back up and usually stays up. Is this my clutch dieing? or something hydraulic related? Hoping I don't have to replace clutch. Searched R32 forum for anything similar and couldn't find anything.
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I'm taking out the brake booster and i need to know how to take off the booster from the brake pedal...
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I have a 2016 Elantra that was bought brand new in October of last year. Since about January, the front end of the car bucks when taking your foot off the accelerator to slow down. The brakes do not need to be applied to cause this to happen. When I say it bucks, it happens repeatedly for 3-5 seconds and everyone in he car can feel it. This happens mainly when going at speeds of 20-30 mph and when going short distances such as stop sign to stop sign or in bumper to bumper traffic. If I put the car in neutral the bucking instantly stops. Unfortunately this doesn't happen every day so the dealer has not been able to replicate it as of yet.
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Ok, so my brake lights don't come on when I hit the pedal, but the instrument cluster does. I checked the fuses and they're fine.
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I have just replaced the ABS Module, and replaced the brake fluid in my 1998 VW Passat 1.8T GLI. Now my brakes don't work at all, when I press the brake It goes all the way down. All the pipes are connected correctly and everything was put back the way it was, so I don't get why the brakes aren't working at all. Passat 1998 1.8T GLI...
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Was checking fuses for why my 3rd brake light and pedal adjustment switch does not work. Was also looking for a fuse to tie into so that a light in the cab floorboard will stay on when the headlights or marker lights are on... After trying several spots to no avail (finally putting it into the bright headlight fuse). I got the light to work.... But now my ABS light stays on!!! Also 3rd brake still not working...
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