Passat (B5) :: Brake Fault On Considerably Sharp Or Normal Right Turns
Jul 30, 2012
Since I got the car i noticed on considerably sharp or normal RIGHT turns my brake fault goes psycho and says service manual yada yada, well my brakes work fine and so does the emergency brake, i also checked to see if i was low on brake fluid, but it was topped off and no noticeable change in fluid level... could this be problems with the brake line?
Its ONLY on RIGHT turns, never goes off on left turns... Its not creating any problems to my driving just distracting and annoying as hell, it goes off roughly 3-4 times I am driving (depending on how far I drive) ...
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98 Ranger Front brake lines Too short! they kink in sharp turns and wear out then start to seep then eventually leak and need replacement. Checked parts references and the lines have been considered stock. Not sure if I have a 1/2 year model.
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I have one 2004 Hyundai Elantra. It was parked outside for almost a year without being used. I recently installed a new battery and had the front brakes/rotors replaced - they were rusted on so tight the guy had to partly saw them off. So now that I have set the scene, why this car turns off in sharp turns. Luckily this only happened twice as i was driving slowly and turning into my driveway. I can turn the ignition and it goes right back on.
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When I make low speed sharp turns, (like trying to make a U or K turn) the Treg kind of "lurches". Is this common? Is there a fix?
My Treg is a V8 PPS and is one of the first here in the US (took delivery 7/7/03).
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2001 VW Passat V6 4-Motion...ABS Brake Fault light comes on every time i turn the car on...brakes and antilock work great...thinking the problem is just an electrical error of sorts...
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I bought a new battery tonight at my local VW dealership and after replacing it in the parking lot I got into my car, started it up, and saw 'Parking Brake Fault - See Owners Manual'. Seeing as I dont have an owners manual as when I bought it used, it didn't come with one - The car is still driveable but does not shift out of gear and when I go to engage (automatic) Drive, Reverse, or Sport, from the Parked position it makes a hard clunk and small jerk before it engages. The MFD is as if I am still parked because I can access all the comfort sections, and all transmission selections are highlighted. Im not sure if it was in Neutral or Park when I engaged the Parking Brake before I changed the battery so maybe and Im hoping when I took the old battery out, and put the new one in, that something wasnt set correctly when the car started up after having no battery power???
I am curious to know what possible ways I can rectify this. Its sitting in the VW dealership parking lot and Im hoping they will be able to take a look at at it in the morning but of course I wanted to check here. Also, what does it say in the Owners Manual about a Parking Brake Fault?
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I have noticed that when I turn my wheel on my Touareg, mostly sharp turn, I get a slipping/almost grinding noise. I am planning on driving cross country next week and this has me worried.
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Not quite a U turn but more like 3 point turn without the backing up, for a wide/sharp U turn to go full circle, turning the steering wheel to the max. It's typically a left turn in this case as seldom turn wide & around the other way.
Doesn't happen all the time, might depend on the road surface (level or not, etc.) but when it happens, I hear a faint hissing sound like air leaking or running water in a pipe. What might this indicate? I don't suppose it's normal?
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I went skiiing this past weekend in Angel Fire, NM. When it was time to leave on Sunday I started the car and proceeded to undo the parking brake (I was parked on a n incline). As I press the button I get a message saying something like "Electronic Parking Brake Fault. Please Service". Then I press it again and it works. Is this something I can expect more of, or could it be due to the cold weather? It was 13F outside then at the time, and the car is a 2006 with 52K on it.
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Happened to me twice today, engine wouldn't start, message on MFD was "Parking Brake Fault" and the engine would not start. I read through he owners manual looking for a solution, and the engine finally restarted and I was off on my merry way.
About two hours later, on another errand, this time I started down the road, the engine died, I tried a re-start, got the same "Parking Brake Fault" message and this time the engine would not start. Tow truck is going after the car right now. This leaves me a bit frustrated why a parking brake issue would kill the engine.
2008 Passat Komfort...
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I've recently replaced all my brake pads front and back. After doing so, the Break Fault warning would come on intermittently (This warning would come on prior to replacing the pads on long hard right turns very sporadically). I tried bleeding the front breaks again, but after doing so the brake fault warning stays on continuously.
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Stop immediately brake failure fault on Passat? Mine is a w8 4 motion and is riding a wrecker to the dealer.. We'll see what he says...
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Two issues are bugging my 04 Gen 2. The check engine light came on a while back, and the code I'm getting when I have it checked is 505, and I'm told it's the idle control system.But then I've been told that the Prius doesn't have an idle control system. At first it came on intermittently, and I noticed that when it was on the ICE did not turn off when sitting at a light or at low speeds, etc. It made sense to me that it might be something with the idle control, but I'm not an engine person. Now the light is on all the time. I haven't had the time to get to the dealer yet, but I suspect that's about to change, due to the next issue:
When making sharp left turns, I'm getting a very brief red triangle/beep/warning on the MFD that says "problem!". Sometimes it is so fast I don't even see the MFD warning.
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In the summer months when the air conditioning is in use, there is a back up of water. i can hear the water sloshing sound when the air is on and when making sharp turns it actually drains out on the front floor, both driver and passenger sides. it has also overflowed out the backseat air vents. my mechanic has told me the drain on this vehicle is tiny and becomes clogged easily. the car is parked in my garage, not left out in the elements so i disagree.
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Car is 2000 Corolla with 58k miles. My front left CV axle was leaking last year so I decided to replace both front CV axles with some generic brand from advanced auto parts (I think the brand was called ToughOne and it was new CV axles..not remanufactured). This was about 5000 miles ago. Before replacing the CV axles, this issue mentioned below never occurred.
The issue is that sometimes, when making slow sharp turns (more evident in right turns) and then immediately coming to a stop, sometimes the CV axles gets "stuck". If I let go of the brakes at the stop...the car rolls backwards (it feels like something is loose and the wheels "freeroll")! During this time, the engine is at 900-1000rpm (it should be 650 at idle). It's like the CV axles get disconnected from the transmission.Then, if I press down the gas pedal a little bit...the engine hits around 1400rpm and the CV axles "connect" again and there is a slight jolt and everything is alright.
This also happens at sudden stops (braking hard). Also a related issue: When making a quick sharp turn at normal speed, as soon as the steering wheel comes back to the center...the engine immediately hits 2300 rpm and then comes back down to 1600rpm. Its like the CV axles are disconnecting (transmission is still engaged and computer detects loss of power and raises engine rpm) and then reconnecting (computer detects power to the wheels are restored...and the engine rpm drops to normal levels).
The transmission fluid is fine, transmission shifts smoothly. Do you think the new CV axles are bad? The mechanic had trouble disconnecting the old axles...so he used a hammer...maybe he bent something?
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1995 Jeep Grand Cherokee LTD. This is a 4X4. This Jeep runs great in all other ways, but only when it's hot out--hot enough to create heat on the front suspension, this problem occurs. The CV Joints have ben changed. Short Trips, it will not happen, only after warming up. It's never happened in cold weather. Been Greased. Three mechanics have looked at this and have found no reason for the problem. . .only to say, yep, it's a problem.
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I have a 2010 Subaru Forester and it has started to make a weird noise when I make slow and sharp turns, like when I am pulling out of a driveway or entering a parking spot. It is not exactly a knocking noise, it is similar to the one when a small piece of rock is stuck on the tire threads, but it is in the center of the car.
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Picked up an '03 Eddie Bauer v8 with the full time AWD knowing that the transfer case needed to be replaced, I got a good deal so it was worth it. It's still driveable but it binds in sharps turns and I get the occasional knock. I have two questions really, what is the correct PN for the single speed transfer case for this year model?
All the online ford parts store will give me is 7A195... well yeah, there's like a hundred different variations on that part number. And what year Mountaineers and Aviators will cross over to the Explorer? I've been searching ebay but their info is all over the place, no consistency. As an after thought, how difficult would it be to convert this to a 2 speed part time 4x4?
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I have recently been having violent shaking when I make a turn to pull into a parking spot or turn at a stop sign. I can park my truck and the truck continues to shake until I turn the motor off. When I restart the truck it runs fine. It doesn't do this all the time just sometimes. I have a 2006 Ford F-150 lariat 2 wheel drive.
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Today the roads were slushy. On my drive to work a strange parking brake fault happened twice. Each time I was driving at highway speeds, not engaging the parking brake. In each case, the parking brake fault light came on, and the car seemed to go into some kind of "limp home" mode: the car would not accelerate or upshift, although it appeared to be willing to maintain around 40mph or very mildly accelerate from 0-20 mph if I stopped all the way. This was not because the parking brake engaged itself and was slowing the car - the car still coasted freely. It was clearly because the computer was limiting the car's power/speed severely. In the first case, I think it came on when I was beginning to apply the regular brakes to slow down gradually for a light; and in the second I was not using the brakes at all but did hit a puddle of slush. In both cases, it's possible the traction control kicked in, although I did not see that indicator light flash. The ABS did not get used based on sound and pedal feel in the first place, and because I wasn't engaging the brakes at all in the second case.
In each case, I was able to pull off the road, shut off the engine/car entirely, and then restart the car to clear the fault and turn off the light. The car drove totally normally from there, as if nothing had ever been wrong. There was around two hours including 90 minutes of being parked in my garage between the two events. I've never had any parking brake malfunction of any kind before with this car. So now I'm wondering when this will happen again. This does not appear to be the common problem of the parking brake button, since it never involved actually applying or releasing the parking brake and never involved me touching the button. I don't like having to quickly go from the left lane of a freeway all the way to the right lane or shoulder when my car suddenly decides to slow down for no obvious reason.
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My brakes are working fine very smooth full of fluid. But for some reason sometimes when i take a hard right turn the stop brake fault pops up on my info screen. I live in nh and it is very cold/ ice too.
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