Last night I have noticed that my Bi-xenon are not working. I check fuses and both fuse 15 AMP were melted. I don't what happened but after I have replaced fuse still no light at all. BTW I'm thinking to replace ATF in my tranny. I did check post history and I couldn't find any post about this,
View 3 RepliesI have an 07 with the AFS lighting. bulb error on dash- as I understand it, this has to do with a faulty shield for the high beam on the passenger side. Can this be repaired? Or should I just shell out the 300 for a used one on ebay.
View 3 RepliesMy left headlight stopped working..
00978 - Lamp for Low Beam; Left (M29)
010 - Open or Short to Plus
and xenon range..
01328 - Convenience System Data Bus
013 - Check DTC Memory - MIL ON
Bought car(2008 r32) from US brought to Canada the dealership activated my DRL which are xenons and also low beams.High beams are same xenons but use shutter .Other two lights are inactive .Did the dealership screw up on the VAG COM??Dont think this is normal.Are the two other lights the inactive ones xenon also?How do I fix?What is normal?
View 11 RepliesWhere's the fuse for the DRL ...both my DRL and high beam isn't working ...I checked the bulb and is seem fine. I did check the fuse box on both locations ( under the hood and steering wheel) none of them says DRL fuse in there ...
View 14 RepliesI Have a '83 Datsun 280zx and most of the electrical system doesn't work! I've checked the fuse link, ignition switch, fuse panel.
View 1 Repliescourtesy "dome" lights do not work when doors are opened or when dash switch is activated. Fuse (under driver seat) and Relay switch have been replaced. Can hear relay switch activated with dash switch. Lights work individual (toggle style ceiling lights). Dash lights dim with dash switch.
View 1 RepliesSo my brake lights aren't working on my 1997 Buick Park Avenue, not even my middle one. All my bulbs, fuses, relays are good. My tail lights and hazards work fine. The circuit has continuity when the pedal is pressed and power going into the brake switch when the pedal is not pressed, but when pressed it has no power going in or out it just cuts off. I figured it was probably a ground then but I checked and all of the grounds are good.
View 5 RepliesSo, I was attempting to install license plate lights rather impatiently in a parking lot the other night at my weekly meet. I pulled out the factory lights, put in the LEDs, reconnected them, turned them on and all systems were go. I shut the lights off and at that point went and screwed the license plate light housings back into place and went and turned the lights on again, and they were not working, at all. I then decided to reinstall the stock bulbs and check it out, and they were not working at all either. So I haven't gotten to dig too much on this at all, but the headlights and taillights still work so I know it isn't the switch.
Plans for Tomorrow: Pull the light housings back out, take photos of everything, make sure all electrical connections are clean and looking good, and then try to get to the bottom of it.
I have an 01 Alero that is a great little car with only 80k on it. Runs and drives like a champ but it has 2 issues that drive me nuts. The AC doesn't work at all. If you press the button on the dash, it does not light up. The compressor doesn't do anything either. I did check all the fuses trying to eliminate the simple but I didn't find any bad ones. What would be my next thing to check? Is it ever the AC relay?
Then the one that really frustrates me: the rear defrost. I live in MI, so 75% of the morning I need it to clear either snow, ice or fog. The button works but the lines don't heat up. I checked them all for power and none have power. I also checked each one for breakage and continuity and they are fine. I saw somewhere that the connection at the module likes to fry but I inspected it and didn't see anything burned.
I clearly have some kind of electrical issue. The odometer and speedometer are no longer visible, the digital display on the clock/radio is barely visible (brightness varies day to day) and the abs light is always on. Now the check engine light is always on. I have to be somewhere around 200,000 miles and other than this the car has been a champ! I had Auto Zone check fuses and run a scan but they couldn't detect the problem. One suggestion I was given was input/output sensors.
View 3 RepliesWhen driving over where road changes the incline (the degree from the horizontal plane; don't have the correct word for it) and the car is supposed to stabilize itself, the rear part of the car jumps up and down for several times, which feels as if rear shockers aren't working and the springs are shaking the car up and down.
View 8 RepliesNoticed this afternoon that as it got dark outside, all dash and door lights aren't working.
The gauge cluster lights, VERY dimly, but delays by appx 2 seconds before coming on? Only switch light that still works right is the Red ring on the Headlight switch.
Again this is all lights, except lights in headliner work fine, gauge cluster lights very dimly with a delay?
i have a 1995 sierra 2500 gas series. then my horn and my washer fluid aren't working. i cleaned all my ground posts and put in new fuses. when i hit the horn, you can hear the relay switch clicking. and, when i first went to use the washer fluid, it squirted once, then stopped. i checked and cleaned all ground posts. i also used an ohm meter on both horns' plugs. there's power coming to the horns???
View 3 RepliesAsides from the myriad of other gremlins associated with our Tregs, my wife's has developed a problem in which the passenger side Xenon Head lamp stops working. When this occurs there is a corresponding warning on the MFI (which is stuck on warning because of the tire pressure module issue). If you turn the vehicle off, sometimes it resets and comes back on - other times it does not.
04 Reflex Silver V8, P/A, Conv. Pkg, Xenons.
I am currently putting the interior of my car back together after a water issue force me to remove everything and have just put the carpet in. While stopping for the night, I noticed that all the overhead lighting doesn't work, the key fob can't lock the car, I can't open the trunk via the button on the door and even if I close all my doors, the car door open light stays on. However, the dash, vents, radio, gauges and headlights work, the car starts, the headlights and tail lights work, and the gas door button works. The ONLY thing I did was remove a #53 block relay that was wired into the rear fogs, since the way the fogs were wired up, they weren't working.
So I removed the relay and wired the fogs directly to the headlight switch. The wiring of the relay was, one wire going to the #9 pin on the headlight switch, one wire going to the 12V source and the last one going to a ground, nothing else. I didn't touch any other wiring or pull any wiring out. What my car is doing now? I was hoping to have it together to go to MIVE's chilifest tomorrow, but this electrical issue makes me uneasy about driving my car over an hour from home without a trusty tow vehicle to rescue me if it goes south.
My 1996 Caravan gauges do not work at all. I have checked the fuse(s), and thay are all fine.The rest of the van works just fine. The fuel, temp,tach, and speed gauges do not work. The odo does not show up either. What to do?
View 14 RepliesSince yesterday the power door locks on my '98 Accord LX (Sedan) are not working. I noticed that it happened after I started the car and it died on me. I tried it again but this time with my foot on accelerator and it started fine. I started driving and then noticed the locks weren't operational. They were fine before this episode.
- When I press the power door lock button on driver or passenger side nothing happens (usually it locks all four doors)
- Manaul locking is fine
- When I lock the car with key it doesn't lock all the door (it only locks the door I'm at - driver or passenger). This is supposed to lock all doors too.
I looked at the interior fuse box on Passenger side and the door locks fuse looks ok (#12). I also swapped it with passenger side power window fuse and the window still worked so I guess it's fine. what I can look at next? I read the the actuator might be a problem (I don't know what it is but I'm willing to give it a shot). Looking at Honda Manual looks like there are multiple actuators (one per door I think) and it doesn't feel like everything would conk off together.
I have a 2000 Dodge Caravan. The power lock switches are no longer working (both driver and front passenger). They worked fine the last time I drove the vehicle and both switches stopped working at the same time. The power locks themselves still function with the remote and still lock when speed reaches 25km. Just the actual switches on the doors are not functioning.
View 5 RepliesSo about a 2 weeks ago my drivers side headlight went out. I figured it was the bulb (even though I had just replaced them about a month prior). Got new bulbs and nothing. I checked the fuse and it was not blown. I made sure the electrical connections to the bulb weren't dirty and were connected properly.
Then last night my passenger low beam went out. I had changed the bulb when the other side went out 2 weeks ago. Its still brand new and not blown. I did the same thing, the fuse is not blown and the electrical connectors are clean and secure.
I just took my car into the dealer about a week before the driver's light went out and did their "Major Service". They did tell me that I would need to replace my battery soon. Could this be the cause?
I drive a 2011 Hyundai Sonata SE 2.4L
The lower rear brake lights on my Venture aren't working, while the high light at the top of the door still works. I've replaced both circuit boards on the driver and passenger side, and all of the bulbs are fine. What I might have missed along the way?
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