Passat (B5) :: Battery Change For Switchblade Style Key?
Oct 1, 2004
How to change the battery in the switchblade style key? I practically have to stand on the hood of my car to get the alarm to set. I am certain that it is the battery in the keys.
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Just purchased a 2010 Prius with 17's (after market) rims. Wondering now if the change in rim size/style will cause my MPGs to go way down.
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I took to the car to the local Muppet Show and they put a new battery in my FOB and the message still comes up. My car does have KESSY so I'm not sure if it's this that is going haywire. The car was serviced in April and had a software upgrade - maybe it has a bug! Also, a few seconds after setting off I now get the BING! sound but no messages..
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We have a 2004 Passat 1.8 t with about 180,000 miles on it. We changed the battery and now it seems to belch out tranny fluid once it comes to a stop. I thought I read where some sensors need to be reset after a battery is changed. Would a battery change cause a leak of this type?
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I have a 2005 PG GLI and lately I don't know why didn't happen at first but now whenever I lock the car with my switchblade key the drivers side door does not lock i have to push the lock down forcefully, any remedy.
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I have searched high and low, and I cannot find how to replace the factory low beam projector style headlight bulb on my wife's 2013 Tiguan SEL. It came with the factory LED style HID lights. There were a ton of videos and how to's for the regular Tiguan headlight replacement, and for aftermarket Ebay LED ones, but I can find anything about how to replace the factory low beam projector bulb, other than "take it to a dealer". My thinking is 'if the dealer can do it, so can I'! There has got to be a way. I can't get the wire bulb retainer loose, or get the bulb out of the headlight housing.
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I am having a bad time with my 2006 2500HD 4x4 with the 6.0. First the battery was beginning to act like it was running down, getting weaker and weaker every time I started up truck. So finally truck died at the gas pump. I pulled battery (optima red top), and took it over to NAPA to test. Battery tested fine on top posts, but was acting funny with the side posts.
So, I purchased a new Redtop, and installed and and clunk, truck wont turn over! So, back to Napa to buy a new starter, install starter, hook up battery and now the sucker turns over great but will not start at all. Truck threw 6 codes: P0335, C0035, U1026, U1041, C0040, C0055.
Wiring all looks fine, battery looks new, and I have changed nothing but battery and starter.
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I have a 2008 Prius and have been thinking I should be changing the auxilliary battery soon as a preventative measure. I've changed plenty of batteries in other vehicles before but I was wondering if there's anything that's much different in these cars that I should be aware of?
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The wife and I took her Santa Fe to our local dealer yesterday afternoon for an oil service. I take them a Mobil 1 5 quart jug of 5w20, and they supply the factory filter.
At any rate, today while she was running errands today the battery light comes on. As I suspected, the alternator is not charging. The battery is good and strong, but I do not know if it will run the car for the 25 mile drive back to the dealer.
I also see that the alternator is directly below the oil snout where the tech would have put the new oil back in yesterday. I am wondering if he drenched it in oil, and thus the reason for the light.
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I was trying to look up how to change the battery in a 1999 dodge intrepid. When I looked on line I got different ways to change it. One was removing the front tire and remove it from below. The other is to remove air cleaner and other items and remove from the top. Which way is it?
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I've got keyless entry on my phaeton 2008. Came up with a warning saying "change key battery" a few months ago. So I changed the key battery with a new one I had lying around. the warning stayed.
I thought it might be an old battery so I bought another brand new one and still the same warning. Thought I'd wait it out thinking it will soon disappear with a new fob battery but it hasn't and is starting to annoy me now.
Other than the warning, the fob works fine, has a good range, and keyless entry works fine. Its just the annoying beep and warning message left.
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I need to replace tail light assembly on 2005 Prius. Some instructions say you should disconnect negative cable on battery before doing this, then do some initialization after reconnecting the battery. Is it necessary to disconnect the battery to change out the tail light assembly? If so, what is the initialization process that must be done?
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I have a 2005 Prius recently replaced the hybrid battery. Not so happy with it, my mpg b4 was 49-51 mpg, now I only get 40-45 mpg. I notice the car is a little weaker and the ICE rev higher everytime I accelerate.
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Today I changed my LH battery due to some issues i had when leaving the can unused for a day or two. I followed the changing procedure listed on the forum and everything went as planned. However now my power trunk wont work. I used the procedure to sync the power trunk but now when i hold the trunk button on my keyfob the lights flash etc but no sound or movement from the trunk.
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A few days ago, the change oil light came on in my car. I haven't had a chance to change it yet, but now the last day or two, when I go to start my car, I've been having small problems with the car starting. It sputters for a few seconds and the gauges jiggle a bit, the battery light and oil pressure light blink on and off a few times, but so far it still starts every time. Once it's started, as well, it's running fine. Not sure it's related or if there's something else going on (never had it happen before when the oil change light has registered).
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I know there are battery "thingies" that plug into the lighter, which supposedly preserve the settings, but since the lighter is not "hot" when the car is not running, I don't see this working. How to do?
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I changed the battery this morning in my 2009 Pontiac Vibe GT with the 2.4 and ended up with a rough idle. I was not having any of these issues before the change. How to adapt the throttle body?
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I have changed the batteries in the remote for my MY 2000 Jetta MKIV VR6. Now the remote is not working. A search suggests I need to program the remote using a specific procedure. Alas, I have found various procedures, and so far none has worked.
First of all, I have two keys, Both were functional. One still is.
What I tried:
-Put key with fob in ignition and turn key to accessory mode position.
-Wait 5 seconds
-Hold lock button on 5 down for 10 seconds.
-Turn ignition off and remove key.
-Close doors on car and trey to lock/unlock - not working!
I'm sure I can find a few more suggested methods, but what's the proper method?
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I just changed out the battery in a separate issue I'm having with the car being dead every time after being left overnight. After changing the battery I had a new problem. The power windows wont work from the drivers side master panel. They worked fine before I changed the battery. There are a million posts online about resetting each window and that's great except for one problem. It doesn't work.
After the battery is unhooked the window switches all blink twice with a long pause. So, I follow the procedure and put the key in the ON position and roll each window down half way (reset and tried it rolling down all the way too) and then roll it back up continuing to hold the window switch in the up position for 1 full second after the window goes all the way up(some methods online variously say to hold it up for 12 seconds or 20 seconds. I tried them all). The blinking light goes out and the auto up/down feature works as expected from that specific window but no dice from the drivers master control.
One other oddity is that the window lock doesn't function anymore. On or off, each window will continue to operate from its own switch.
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I have a 07 Camry XLE. My previous battery started dying on me so I changed to an Optima Yellowtop battery. Next day the check engine light came on, and sometimes while idle the car starts stalling, it never turns off though just that the RPM goes really low and the acceleration is really slow and it feels like the car is having trouble accelerating. Today it happened again but I was over 60MPH and hitting the gas pedal and it seemed to stop accelerating a few times.
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Any VCDS instructions to reset?
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