Passat (B5) :: Auxiliary Fan Is Running On High
Dec 20, 2012
So today after I got done working for 9 hours today, I start my car and immediately I hear my auxiliary fan running on high as if I had the AC running. Unfortunately the car was still cold when it started and being that it was in the high 50s when I left work, I had no need to turn the AC on. Why the fan is running on high even when the car is cold. I am wondering if it could be the auxiliary fan switch. And if it is, where exactly is it located.
View 6 Replies
Advertisement
I left my car for a week in the garage and the battery ran down. I had it re-charged but now even running the radio for a ten minutes with engine off runs down the 12v. The panel check says that its charge is over 12.4 v. What is going on? How do I prevent having to jump start the car every day or so even after running for 20+ miles at freeway speeds?
View 5 Replies
1996 Cheyenne 3/4 Ton 4x4 Long box
I put a cap on the box and the inspection guy told me I had to have a Center High Mount Stop Light on the back of the cap itself (because the back of the truck cab has one). I mounted the fixture and routed the wires down the box post under the truck box (I included a plug connector before it goes down the box post, so I can unplug the cap easy when I want to remove it).
Now I began to think... I can't just tap into the brake light wire at the rear bumper because the CHMSL will come on too when a signal light comes on. Do I have to run a CHMSL feed from the fuse box or somewhere up front, all the way down to the rear bumper? Where to locate this feed, or do I have to reference a schematic in the manual? Guess what? I don't have the manual.
While I was at it I installed a cargo light fixture inside the cap. I guess I could run that feed down from the front too while I am running the CHMSL wire.
View 7 Replies
2005 Prius shows a C1241 code, which can mean abnormally high or low positive voltage in the auxiliary battery. In my case it appears to be abnormally high, because my voltmeter showed the battery charged to 18 volts with the car off, and when running it showed 20 volts going to the battery. There's also a POA80 code (hybrid battery pack) but I'm not convinced yet that it's a hybrid battery problem. What would cause the overcharging of the auxiliary battery?
View 8 Replies
I'm looking to install an auxiliary port into my 2006 Passat 3.6L 4motion and I was wondering what plug in converter would be best to get, what other cables I would need, and where I can buy a flush 3.5mm aux cord for installing in a blank plastic piece next to the gear lever. I'm not looking to buy a converter that charges an iPod.
View 3 Replies
Gotten this code on B6, P008B- fuel/air metering and auxiliary emissions controls? If so what does it mean in a little more detail. I am guessing something along the lines of an o2 sensor.
View 5 Replies
My Lincoln engine / coolant fan is running high about 90% of the time but the car is not overheating or heating up prior to the fan issue. This is a new situation. I'm trying to avoid a $1200.00 new fan purchase ( it only comes as a one unit option - fan, shroud, motor ).
View 4 Replies
The oil pressure gauge on my truck has jumped to 80PSI while running. What caused this? Is it a bad pressure switch or is it the gauge? If it is the switch where is it located on a 2006 Chevy truck with a 6.0?
View 8 Replies
i have a 2006 honda civic. at higher speeds it sounds and feels like it is running at a high RPM but the RPMs are where they should be. if i touch on the brake the sound gets louder. i recently had my car in and got new tires, but the problem still persists. they checked my brakes and they are fine.
View 4 Replies
Lately I've noticed the radiator fan has been running fairly excessively for the entire duration of a trip. (~1 hour) The ambient outside temperature has been around 30 degrees and was driving normally on the highway for the entire trip. (engine temps are normal as well)..
When I shut the engine down and get out you can tell the fan was really working since it takes a good 10 seconds to spin down. (almost like a jet engine shutting down). Still other times, it doesn't do it with the same conditions. One of the only things I can narrow it down to is it seems to always run long when it's the first drive of the day.
View 4 Replies
Recently replaced spark plugs and wires on 02 SL1 with 209K miles. Was running rough, rough and high idle, almost died on me driving home one night. After replacing everything, car still wouldn't start. Spent some time on the forums and some suggested a leaking intake manifold gasket, so I changed that out as well as the coolant temperature sensor. Still it won't start. I am getting good spark at the plugs (coil arcs across the posts when plugs wires are off).
Really not sure where to go next with this. I can hear the fuel pump hum when I turn on the ignition, and I get a good spray at the fuel rail. Basically I turn the key and it cranks, sputters, and will almost catch, but then not. What next??
View 2 Replies
High pitched noise when car is running at idle and when not on the gas. Whenever I accelerate it goes away. Pitch/Loudness seems to be higher with RPM's. Could be coming from front of the car.
Checked so far:
I read some other posts about this and fully disconnected my aftermarket radio. I'm pretty sure it is not a ground loop as no power to HU shouldn't still create the whistle.
What I have:
I have an EIP aftermarket street exhaust. I checked the exhaust to see about the flapper, but I don't believe I have any of the items involved - maybe I'm wrong. After some more reading it sounds like a vacuum leak as it goes away upon acceleration. I need identifying what vacuum hoses are still in place/clamped off with having an aftermarket exhaust.
I do not have a CAI, just a K&N drop in.
View 4 Replies
The car will start up fine, run for 10 - 20 min and stall. I will try and restart it but i takes atleast 7 or 8 sec of the car just turning over before it slowly fires up. Which results in a high idle 1200-1400 rpm and the car stalling another 5 min later.
Ive fixed my o2 sensor the wire was cut, replaced the fuel filter, and got a eurojet lower pcv hose for the vacuum leak i found.
View 4 Replies
2004 Santa fe. Having issues with RPM running high. When car is started, RPM sits at 1500 for a few mins, then drops to 500. Seems to be having issues either getting into gear or staying. At any mph, car seems to surge and not feel like it's getting either gas or power. While on cruise at 55+ mph, car will also surge with RPM dropping 500, then kicking back in. This goes on every few seconds up to random times.
Had it looked at this past weekend at a dealer, and of course it didn't do it one time, after doing it for a half hour prior on the interstate. Tech found no error codes when he checked it as well. Car was fine for an additional 300 miles, then it started again out of the blue. Pulled out at a red light and I though I was going to stall.
Just got laid off so I'm trying to eliminate before putting a lot of money into it if I don't have to. 132,000 miles.
View 2 Replies
I have a 95 neon that is running a very high Idle. When you remove your foot off the break & gas it idles around 40 mph. Iv just replaced all the breaks and its melting the new ones already. I am receiving the following check Engine Codes: 12, 25, 32, 15. I have completed the following repairs:
1) replaced all vacuum lines.2) removed EGR Valve to clean, replaced all lines. No more engine code 32, however, now I am getting engine code: 12, 23, 25, 15.3) removed intake manifold to replace the PCV Valve as well as all hoses from the oil separator.4) replaced the IAC sensor5) used ohm meter to check all wiring from IAC to computer. no issues.6) replaced the TPC sensor7) used a ohm meter to check all wiring from the TPC to the computer. No issues.8) used a ohm meter to see if the air temperature sensor was working correctly. No issues9) checked wiring from Air temperature sensor to computer, no issues.
The car continues to idle extremely high to the point it is not safe to drive. By feeling the throttle body where the IAC lets in air, it feels like its comply open. I pulled the IAC out of the throttle body while it was plugged in and ground to the engine block. When you turn the car on you can see the IAC move, but it never seems to want to shut off air supply.
It appears the computer is telling it to let more air in even though its very high idle. I replaced the computer about 5 years ago. what would cause this?! Im to the point iv put in way too much time and money already. but I don't want to buy a new car when it could just be a $50 fix.
View 1 Replies
Went to the dealer because my idle was running both too low and/or too high, check engine light came on.
1) Replace air intake manifold because air flow flap is faulty.
2) Oil leak out of upper and lower timing belt covers - need to replace gaskets.
3) Missing!!! the high note horn
View 1 Replies
Its a first Generation I have had about a year, had some of the typical issues with a vehicle this old---bad connection with a relay under hood, cracked fan blade, IAC, nothing I could not find.
Temp (issue is getting worse) runs up to high end of "Normal" yet I note radiator does not seem overly hot. (to the touch).
Antifreeze tests very good and is full---no signs of leaks or liquid in the oil.
I am hoping thermostat or radiator===vehicle has been well maintained and does not show rust in the coolant, and no signs of leakage around the pump or anywhere else---coolant level does not drop.
I am planning on removing the thermostat and seeing if same issue with it removed====it should rule that out or not----
It is not boiling over but just running towards the high end of the normal area.
View 3 Replies
I recently noticed on my truck that my oil temp was running high, I would go down the interstate at 75 mph and the oil temp would get up to 215-218 while my coolant temp would sit around 192-196. So, I took it into the shop and was told it was most likely a bad oil cooler and had it replaced 2 years ago when I had my injectors and gaskets replaced along with my egr deleted. So, got the truck yesterday, going 60mph down the highway, truck ran an oil temp of 192 and the coolant at 188. Was great, but later on once I got to the interstate going my 75 mph, The oil temp jumped to 209 and my coolant sat at 192. Not sure what the deal is, was told the oil cooler was replaced and wanted some input on what else I could be looking at. I currently have 5w40 synthetic oil running in it. I have an EDGE CTS tuner on it and tuned it back to stock mode, but oil temp still jumps up to 209 and coolant remains around 190-192.
View 14 Replies
Regarding my problem (outline below):
>> Went for a refueling stop, and thereafter proceeded onto the highway
>> Approx. 500m into the drive onto the highway the car started jerking and running rough with an initial puff of smoke (none thereafter)
>> Immediately after this initial jerking/shuddering there was a significant increase in fuel consumption i.e. from a familiar 8.2L/100km to 18L/100km in the cruise
>> We continued driving not knowing what it was (I suspected a spark plug may have stopped working)
>> Pulled up at the gas station to observe what went wrong inside the engine bay - no signs of any leaks, fuel sprays, etc. but only that the engine was shaking
>> I checked the rear of the car while the car was idling and observed a pulsating sound...some light smoke and a fuel-rich egg-like smell
>> Asked around and I was led to think the catalytic converter was ruined, so the next day I had the catalytic converter cut out
>> After removing the catalytic converter the problem persisted...although the engine operated with slightly less flow resistance
Attempt at diagnosing the problem
>> My wife called in a technician from BMW at Canal Walk to come have a look and what errors were flagged
>> The tech ran the diagnostic and no fault codes were indicated, except a few short circuit faults due to my incorrectly placing -ve on +ve when I tried to charge my cars battery with jumper cables
>> He proceeded to ask if we changed the spark plugs, I said yes. He then looked at the oil on the intake manifold and said there could be a torn valve on the intake manifold and that air that is not measured by the air mass flow sensor is entering the engine, which is causing the car to rev hunt (this problem of rev hunting has been with us for a while). The engine also shuts down uncommanded at stops and sometimes between shifting gears with the subsequent loss of power steering (very dangerous!!)
>> We also had the O2 sensor replaced a month before this occurence
The images attached (#1- #3) are marked up to indicate the component I am referring to.
[IMG] FilesImage_1.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG] FilesImage_2.jpg[/IMG]
[IMG] FilesImage_3.jpg[/IMG]
Went to Cape City VW in Cape Town and the part number for that orange thing/diaphragm is 06A 198 205A 'Repair kit for valve'. Is this significant? The car sounds as strange at idle...as if has noisy valves. I can upload (if there is an option) a sound clip of how the car sounds if this assists.
View 1 Replies
High pitched whirring noise when the climate control fan (compressor?) is running at low speeds. It doesn't seem to matter if the air is on or not. I'd like to know what it cost to fix and if it is covered under most extended warranties.
View 4 Replies
I have a 2001 Kia Sephia that quit running as I was driving down the road. The car has a little over 150,000 miles on it and was running fine prior to the incident. The car was responding fine and then suddenly acted as if it lost power and shut down as I was driving. I put a code scanner on the car and retrieved the following codes: 342, 460, and 713, which I understand are the camshaft sensor circuit low input, fuel level circuit malfunction, and transmission temperature circuit high input. Is this a computer that has failed or just all the sensors at once failing? If it is the computer, which one(s)? I was trying to do research and if I saw right, there are more than one ecm's now on cars.
View 13 Replies
