Passat (B5) :: Aux Fan Runs Constantly With Key In
Jun 20, 2008
2000 1.8t ATW/AEB auto. We completed the motor swap and the car ran/runs perfectly. Everything functions but just outta the blue the aux fan decides to run when the key is on the on position. And no the A/C is not turned on.
Pulling relay 214 does nothing! It still runs. Pulling ALL relays does not do anything...it still runs. It has constant voltage to it while the key is on. The car runs perfect otherwise but the aux fan is incredibly loud and makes the driving experience suck.
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I have a 08 2.0 CRDi and my radiator fan runs constantly on high as soon as the key is turned on and stays on high until I turn the key off. Have found the fan controller and wondered if that might be faulty but don't wont to replace it for nothing. also where is the temp switch is on the engine or radiator?
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The past week I have noticed my battery cooling fan running constantly on all highway trips - 20 mile one-way trips going 65-70MPH.
The performance of the battery doesn't seem be degraded, but it seems like the battery is hopping more between charging cycle or whatever you would call it , where you watch the instantaneous MPG on the highway drop down for 10 seconds to 40-50, then back up to 60-70.
The car is a 2011 Prius III. It did not run like this earlier in the summer in the same weather conditions, I would hear the fan maybe once every few weeks in hot 90 degree weather. Now I hear it constantly. This is my first summer owning the Prius so this may be normal, but I wanted to double check with you all if this is a sign of premature traction battery death or something.
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It started out w/ my wife swapping from the front fuel tank to the rear tank due to the fuel qty getting real low. Then the next day when I drove it I had bad fuel qty and amp meter indication, I found a blown fuse on my fuel qty/amp meter gauges. I replaced the fuse and got my indications back. Now I hear my front tank fuel pump is running constantly when selected to its position. Its now full of gas and still runs constantly. The rear tank/pump operates normal. I am wondering if I ran that pump empty and lost its prime? What is the best way to burp it?
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I know there are two mpg's -- one for short trip and resets itself after the engine being turned off for 2 hours, and the other is kind of long-term mpg and keeps accumulating until being manually reset. Starting from a few weeks ago, the "long-term" mpg started reset itself every time when I turn off the engine. So every time I start the car, the mpg shows "---". It's like the car lost its memory. But other than that, nothing else has the "self-reset" problem, the clock (date and time) is working fine, the mileage (both overall and trip mileage) is recorded correctly.
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I bought a 1999 1.8T Passat B5 about 10 months ago. The BRAKE and the ABS lights both were constantly on. The car also beeped at me everytime I turned it on. Obviously, the ABS control module was bad. Then, I bought an used ABS control module online, replaced it and the BRAKE light went off and the beeping stopped as well. The ABS light still stayed on.
Next I had the car scanned (VAGCOM). Below is what it reads. Both right front and rear ABS sensors were bad. I replaced them. The ABS light still stays on. I am wondering what this means:
18258 - Powertrain Data Bus: Missing Message from ECU
P1850 - 35-00 -
Is the replaced ABS control module still non functional?
Should I have the car scanned again and reset the light since I replaced both faulty wheel sensors? Is it obvious that the ABS control module still needs to be rebuilt?
VCDS Version: Release 10.6.4
Data version: 20110418
Tuesday,07,June,2011,18:29:06:63737
Chassis Type: 3B - VW Passat B5
Scan: 01 02 03 08 15 16 17 19 35 36 37 46 47 55 56 57 58 75 76 77
[Code] ....
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1999 Passatt ... My ABS system is shot and the "ABS BRAKE!" lights flash constantly, as long as car is on. I have been told to not replace the ABS system as it's incredibly pricey. I was told by another owner that he had heard there was a way to have this blinking stop pretty easily.
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i have a 2001 Passat & my ABS & Brake warning lights have come on with no other symptoms. Brakes work fine - local mechanic can find nothing wrong!!
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I have a 1999 passat 1.8t and its having problems accelerating. When you hit the gas pedal the idle rises and drops constantly. What this is?
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The car is a 2000 passat v6 with ~135k, auto trans. Well when the car is cranked it takes a bit to get running and once it does, black(wet) specs come out the exhaust and go all cover the surrounding area of the tailpipe. When the a/c is off it almost sounds like it is running normal but when the a/c is on(at idle) the engine runs very rough, it almost sounds like a misfire. It does have a check engine light, but i have no obd2 scanner, and from what i've been reading might not even do me any good because of vag com?
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The SAI pump (part number 021 959 253 B) on my 97 Passat continues to run intermittently after the car is turned off, eventually draining the battery. How do I fix?
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I have a 2002 VW Passat that I cannot communicate with the ECU. I have the latest version of the Vagcom software downloaded. It has the factory radio installed and still will not communicate. The car runs, but runs rough. Anything else to check?
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Today for the first time, my fan won't run on anything but "4". Car only has 2K miles, and of course I'll take it to the dealer unless it's something I can fix with VAG-COM.
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I'm working on a 06' Passat 2.0t and it runs rough only at idle like its misfiring only vag-com says no misfires and no engine codes. MAF looks like it may be a little low on performance but should be ok. I tried swapping out coil packs but no change. I changed the pcv breather and hose, cleaned the carbon off the valves, swapped the throttle body with a known good one, and changed the piston on the fuel pump and still no change. It smooths out when I turn the a/c on but that's the only thing that changes the idle.
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My 2001 V70 24T runs smooth when cold as it warms up it runs rough with delayed acceleration reaction ....
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My V6 3.2l runs very rough for 1-2 minutes at startup when cold i.e. the first startup of the day, or after it has not been driven for several hours. Is this normal? I understand this might be something to do with the 'anti-knocking' feature. But I only use RON 98. Also I can here something like a tappet sticking when idle all the time. Is this normal, is it just a noisy engine design? The car has only done 1800kms.
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So, for a couple of weeks my g/f's Passat has had no heat. The blower fan runs and the AC works but the heat is non-existent. Fast forward to this morning and now all of a sudden her heat miraculously works again. The car has 170k miles on the clock and had the timing belt and water pump done around 120k miles. The thermostat I'm not too sure about. I don't know when (if ever) the system has had a coolant flush so I plan on doing that this weekend. Is it okay to use something other than the G12 VW originally put in it?
At first I thought maybe her heater core was clogged but if it is I don't understand why the heat would start working again. Any tutorial on how to flush this motor properly and how to access the heater core lines so I can try to clear it? On my car it's a piece of cake but her VW stumps me sometimes.
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One of my friends recently asked me to change the timing belt on his 2004 Passat 1.8T. I put on everything as instructed by the manual that the parts department gave me. However, when I start the engine, it runs perfectly for about three seconds, then starts rattling, and stalls out. I took the belt off and put it back on three times and yet, it still continues. This rattling seems to be coming somewhere from within the exhaust system near the engine and sounds like a back-fire. The check engine light also appears when this begins happening. I replaced everything, water pump, pully, tensioner, and etc. Note, I am a professional mechanic and have worked on several Volkswagen cars, including my own, but I never encountered a problem like this one.
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I have a 2013 Passat TDI with remote starter, when I start the car it runs until I unlock the doors and then the engine shuts off, I know there is something I am doing wrong but can't seem to find the information in the manual on how to keep the engine running.
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I noticed yesterday in traffic, looking for a parking space the ICE was constantly cycling off and on. The battery was only at 2 bars so I understand why it was doing that. How does the Prius get the mileage it does if the gas engine is turning off and on all the time in traffic? Yes it was hot and I had the A/C on too, which of course draws more current. We had driven 130 miles and I was amazed at how short the SOC lasted.
Suffice to say that once we got out of the congested area and I could brake more effectively the off and on went away.
Also on the way back I used the normal mode for windy hilly areas and the eco mode for the highway with cruise on. Oddly enough at the end of the trip the CONS was showing 57.6mpg. Didn't seem like changing modes hurt the mileage at all if any.
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Having issues with the windshield constantly fogging up?
I love my car, but this is a large annoyance for me. It seems as though the heat is escaping from the engine bay and being ducted directly into the lower half of the windshield. I know it is occurring on the outside of the glass because I can wipe it off with the wipers, but it just keeps coming back. Sometimes, it's so bad that I can't even see the road...
I do have the APR Carbonio intake installed, and I'm wondering if the intake tube that parallels the windshield has a leak somewhere.
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