Passat (B5) :: Automatic Transmission Individual Gear Selector On Right Side Does Not Work
Sep 14, 2012
The gate to the right of the PRNDL gate of the automatic transmission in my 2003 1.8T with the "+" and "-" stopped working. What may be wrong? The transmission works fine and shifts normally. I did replace the fluid recently but did nothing except remove the fluid and refill.
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So my battery had died and just got a new one. But i noticed that my automatic up/down on the drivers side window doesn't work, I have to keep pressing the button for it to go up or down.... the other 3 windows are working perfectly. Is there a way to fix this?
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So couple of days ago, I went shopping. no issues. after shopping i fired it up, no issues, put it reverse, car was shaking, put the car in neutral. No issues, put the car in drive car is shaking again. i started to drive no shaking, however the car felt like it had no power, I only felt shaking during switching from R TO N TO D. So I change to manual mode and see the gear was 3rd. i was not able to change gears manually, neither did the tranny switched them for me. I drove home about a 3 miles. shut the car off, restart it...gears and car drives normal. Took to dealership, they checked it...and of course no issues. Ihave 44k miles and 50k warranty expires next week, nice, huh? got another year of powetrain warranty left.
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The other day I had a metal pin fall out from under my dash and hit me on the foot (only reason I would have know if fell out till I clean the truck)
Ever since then the gear selector handle for my transmission has become sloppy and when I go to turn off the truck, I have to hold the arm up to turn key off all the way. I have looked to try and find where it goes and cannot find the location. I have also looked at a blown up parts diagram and cannot find it. Where it goes?
2002 F250 SD V10 with auto...
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I have a 2000 passat v6 with a automatic transmission, I was on the highway yesterday and 2x the car shifted down by itself from 5th to 4th gear. I noticed when I bought the car it had a slight tranny leak which I assumed was from the seal drying up because the previous owner let the car sit for a little bit. The first day I bought the car she hesitated going from 4th to 5th for like 3 seconds but every day after that it has been fine. I have been told by some people to flush it and get new fluid and a filter, and then other people telling me that the tranny fluid is lifetime and if you flush it your going to blow the tranny up.... What should I do, the day it acted up I got to where I was going then the car sat for about 2 hours and on the way home on the interstate it was fine like nothing ever happened. I drove it to work today there and back and again no problem.
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Fix a Loose Column Shifter on Ford Vehicles - YouTube
The first pic shows the torx screws that come loose, allowing the handle to get sloppy.
The second pic shows the black plastic adjuster wheel that centers the gear shift selector needle on the proper designated gear displayed in the indicator window.
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Just got my 2013 Elantra Limited last weekend. It appears the car is having some issues with the transmission shifter. I am not sure if its tranny related, but I highly suspect it is. Dealer gave me the usual bs not being able to duplicate the symptoms.
1. Intermittently, gear selector would get stuck in neutral, when I try to put the car into P, after a long or a short drive.
2. I would have to wiggle the shifter to get into P, or I would have to shift to D, and then I am able to shift back into P.
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I have a 1997 F-150, 2 wheel drive, 4.6L truck. Recently the transmission got to where it didn't shift properly. Then it got to where, after driving it about 10 to 15 miles the transmission would drop out of gear with the transmission selector in drive.
I have replaced the transmission sensor, the rear end sensor and it still does the same thing. Drive about 10 to 15 miles and, with the transmission selector in drive the truck will not pull. The motor can be rev'ed but the truck won't move just like it was in neutral.
What is wrong. The transmission shifts fine, the truck runs fine, but after 10 to 15 miles the transmission quits working.
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I am just about committed to purchasing a 1997 Ford E350 extended cargo van with the 5.4. The transmission shifts through all the gears nice and firm (reverse also works). The only issue with the van is the column selector lever is very hard to move between the entire range of PRND21. It also does not "click" into the selected positions, you have to just line up the pointer to the desired gear selection.
Is this a complete deal breaker (internal transmission issue/replacement necessary) or, is it something relatively simple (such as a worn selector cable). The owner did admit the van has been sitting for sometime. It has 134,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2008 Ford Escape 2.3L V6. About 67K miles on it.
Recently there's been some transmission problems. When the selector is in Drive, it will take abnormally long to shift into the next gear at normal speeds, and will redline if i hit it hard, but if i let off the gas, it will shift. Never hard.
If I put the selector in 2, it will do the same thing, eventually shifting into that second gear.
Gear selector on one, well, it obviously stays in 1st.
Reverse is fine. All shifts are smooth just take forever, and I get the wrench in the dash (means drivetrain/throttle fault as per manual) only after driving a while. The tranny fluid is still very clean, and this as been going on for 2 months.
Ive taken it to about 6 different places. Half say new tranny off the bat. Other half says clean fluid for that long after the problem started means its def. an electrical problem, and that makes the most sense to me. What it could be?
I'm thinking:
-Tranny Range Positioning Sensor
-Input/Output speed sensor
-TCM reprogramming/replace
- I'll even go with reflashing the PCM.
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This past Sat, when I started the car in the morning, noticed that the Gear selector indicator in the MFD is stuck. The display background is reversed and moving gears does not change the display, in the regular or sports mode. When I go from P to R (or D), I occasionally have a jerk. I drove the car car a bit since and no other apparent issues. It is a Triptronic.
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2009 Prius all windows stopped working except the drivers window.I have checked fuses,window locks,etc...I heard that the problem is the "bcm" which is located under the drivers seat. One window was half way down when it stopped working so I took the door panel off and ran wires from my laptop power supply and ran it up. I am wondering if i could run a wire from the battery with the correct fuse on it to each window and bypass this '"bcm" thing altogether.
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Toyota corolla 2013 automatic gear reverse lights don't work after I installed new stereo it's my fault i shorted 12v positive backup (reverse) light trigger camera stereo v12+ cable to ground while backup (gear R) in place. As a result reserve lights don't work beside gear indicator doesn't show on main screen. I can drive without problem but problem still intact.
I checked all fuses and they are all okay I need to identify problem or possible repair too I only find 2 fuses behind glove box i think they call "instrument panel" there are bunch of cable and underneath of cables there is only 2 rectangle shape fuses I could not see anything else, the other fuse box is in engine compartment i thoroughly tested each small fuses they are all okay is there anything else i forgot to check ?
I attached also instrument panel screen shot ....
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I have a 36 foot motor home on a 2000 Ford F53 chassis. (similar to single axle freight trucks and school busses) After getting one set of the rear wheels partially stuck, which resulted in some spinning of that side, the overdrive off light on the shift lever began to blink and the service engine soon light came on. The fault code said, "speed sensor showing more than one mile per hour". Now the automatic transmission sometimes will not shift into first gear after stopping and has to be manually downshifted, after which, it works fine.
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2200 Miles... It will not shift into 2nd gear in automatic and the rpms race up to 4000 when going about 20 mph. The only way to get it to work again is turning car off and on again. It has only happened twice.
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I just noticed last night that my transmission was slipping in 3rd gear, it's an automatic. I added just about a quart of transmission fluid today....took a little drive and it still seems to be having the same problem? What might be causing this besides needing to get a new/rebuilt transmission?
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So I have a 2006 Hyundai accent with 75000KM on it. I notice when it shifts from 1st to 2nd gear sometimes it will jerk. It feels almost as if it goes to neutral and then sifts, causing the whole car to jerk. It use to only do it when the car was cold (first 15 min of the day) but now it seems to be doing it all the time and getting worse. I have had the transmission fluid replaced, but it doesn't seem to work.
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I have a rather strange issue with my '11 sedan gl and it appears to be getting worse but the issue is so intermittent that its hard to find a pattern.
The problem is that sometimes in the first 5 minutes of a drive, I will have very rough gear changes. Its an all or nothing usually. If I start my drive, it will either do it or it wont and if it does, its gonna last a good 5 minutes or so at every gear change.
When the gear changes, I will feel a jolt a bit like I would tap the brake a little and the gear will engage but will take a good second or two before doing so. When the car runs smooth, the gear changes are smooth and quick but I just get that strange behavior once in a while and when it happens, I always wonder if the transmission will break on me.
The occurrence of this is rather concerning as of late. Last winter as an example, it happened only 2-3 times the whole winter. Lately however, it is almost doing it every day (I've had it happen maybe 3 times this week).
I went to the dealer. No error codes and they can't find anything wrong with it and since this happens only during the first 5 minutes or so for the entire day, when they do a test run they of course can't spot the problem. I went to a local garage and same thing there again same response.
At first I thought that I didn't leave the car idle long enough during the cold winter days but we are in the 20 degrees Celsius now. At startup, I always wait until the engine drops the rpm back at 1000 or so before getting on my way (which is between 30 to 60 seconds).
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1998 Ford f150 172984 miles automatic with 4x4 runs and drives transmission is going out will not hit 3rd gear have to drive in 2nd. Is there a fix without pulling the transmission?
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I have a 2010 Matrix with automatic transmission. 5.5 year old with only 44,000 KM ... The transmission jerks annoyingly when up-shifting from gear one to two. I replaced the transmission oil and had Toyota service confirm there is a problem.
I read that the accumulator should be checked and adjusted as well as the throttle which can be done without removing the transmission, but Toyota tells met hat everything is now electronic and there is nothing to adjust. How to proceed?
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just bought a 2003 camry 4 cylinder with 126xxx miles automatic, everything seem fine when i was test driving and all. I bought the car and finally drove the car for around town running errands and all of a sudden i started to noticed a stutter in between shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear.
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