Passat (B5) :: Alarm Turned On Immediately After Switched Off The Car
Mar 5, 2007
I have a 2000 VW passat, and yesterday when I tried to parking, the alarm turned on immediately after I switched off the car and the warning lights of EPC, generator and Malfunction all turned on. So I sat inside the car and read the manual book but found nothing I want. The alarm persisted for several minutes. And when I got out of the car, the alarm turned on again.
The worse is when I tried to bring a friend to take a look, this situation would not reappear, so it seemed like that it will just turn on and turn off randomly.
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I have a 2006 prius with about 75k miles on it. It was sitting for a few months (due to loss of job exp tags no insurance) finally got financial issues squared away and when I was ready to use my prius it would not start.
Jump start got it going and it drove great. Occasionally after having the car parked it would give me problems starting. sometimes screen would read "There is a problem with the transmission "p" lock mechanism. Park your car on a flat surface, and fully parking brake" after following steps and turning car on and off a few times it would allow me to drive.
Last night I got home and parked my car, turned it off and immediately noticed that as soon as I powered off the car i lost all power. I tried starting car right away and no power at all. door locks, all lights, brake lights, everything off. this morning i tried jump starting car and nothing so I went to toyota and had the 12v battery replaced.
Unfortunately still no power however power button illuminated green when pushed but nothing else, still no power nothing but the green light. I pushed the power button once more and light illuminated orange and when i applied the break i could hear clicking noises under the hood but still no power at all... nothing. I checked all fuses and everything checked out ok. I also checked the 120amp fuse and it seems to be just fine as well.
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The problem I'm having is with a 1994 mercury sable 3.8Let me start off with the things I've fixed, water pump, thermostat, radiator, complete head job done profesionally, and fan is straight wired to run on high all the time.
Now the interesting part. The car immediately overheard when the AC is turned on and only when it's on. It only overheats when your moving, not when your in park or in stopped traffic. What the heck is going on with it? All fluids are changed regularly and full. i unplugged the temp gauge sensor when running and it did not drop the needle does this mean it's bad?
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It's getting hot, and the A/C in our 2002 is completely nonfunctional (and has been since we bought it a year ago). Unfortunately it also doesn't provide a diagnostic code.
When the A/C is turned on, the light begins flashing immediately, and the air is not cold. I've tried it while the engine is at high RPMs, and idling in the driveway with no change in results. When I put it in diagnostic mode there still aren't any codes (except the solar sensor if it is dark). If the ICE is off when I turn on the A/C, the ICE fires up briefly then shuts down.
The mechanic we bought it from suspected the compressor. I hoped it was really the clutch (seems common), and that I could just put in shims to adjust the spacing. The only code I have gotten from it was for the cabin air intake servo motor shortly after we bought it. I found a mouse nest in the cabin air filter, which I figured was causing the problem. After replacing the filter the code went away but the A/C still wouldn't work.
I'm wondering.. Is there anything else I can do to trigger a DTC? Are there any specific problems that wouldn't have a DTC? Would a compressor/clutch problem certainly trigger a DTC? Can I test it when there is no functionality? (It seems more common to have intermittent trouble with that). If some of the mouse nest was sucked into the A/C system, could it cause this?
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How good the alarm on a B6 is. I mean, it goes off when the doors are opened and the alarm is on...but how easy is it to steal a Passat.
I wanna put a navi in and do a few things...but I just don't feel ok doing them and knowing I don't have a GREAT alarm.
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2004 f350 sensor switch will now and then let me turn it "on", but turns itself off immediately. Has never worked since I owned truck.
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A while back, my alarm started acting up. What triggered it but now my horn does a single honk whenever my car turns off, whenever I arm my alarm, or whenever I disarm my alarm. Before the problem, it would only hear the alarm chirp when arming and disarming. It would only honk when I pressed the arm button twice. Also, my alarm light is always flashing in increments of 2 and never stops.
It blinks when the car is off and while I'm driving. I've tried the trick to turn it on, off, then hit the button 6 times (also tried 3 and 8), I've held the button while turning the car on then off, I've tried holding the arm and disarm button at the same time......nothing. Also, I got the car used so I'm not sure if my alarm is factory or after market. I attached a few pictures to determine that.
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Hear a whirring sound like a small motor going round when the key is switched on. Its not the stereo cos i took the fuse out but that didn't stop it.....Its a continuous bloody annoying whir that just don't go away. Yes I have turned the fan off its not it.
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Bought my 1st VW 2003 4 Motion W8. Love it! Headlight problems though. It's equipped with Bi Xenon lights? Thought they were just called xenon, but not sure. Drivers side comes on when car is started, but not passenger. This is with switch off and the drl light is on. Passenger side doesn't come on when lights are switched on. But if i turn the car off and back on both headlights light up. When both lights work when turned on neither work when turned off but i believe they should be on for daytime running lights. I have noticed the drivers side light(the one that works all the time)is very white in color and the pass side which is hard to get on is blue in color. High beams work normal. Do i need to change pass bulb?
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My high beam doesnt work. I have a Euro Passat with H7. I bought new H7 yesterday but still no luck.
I have switched fuses to new ones.
Is there anything else I can check?
Is there relays on this model for the high beams?
Low beams works fine and everything else in lights.
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My wife has a 2009 VW Passat 2.0T and I gave her a Garmin for Christmas. I'd like to wire it directly into a switched 12v power source. I know this is a common question on car forums but my searches for "12v switched power source," "12v," and "switched power" in the Passat B6 forum didn't turn up anything of use. Where I can find a good cord to tap into? I'll be using a vampire clip but am not opposed to using a fuse tap if someone knows of an open switched fuse spot.
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I have had to disarm my alarm system in my 2003 Impala (done via the radio) due to what appears to be a flaw in the system. It is telling my car I am trying to steal it and thus it won't start. As soon as I turned the "alarm" system off the car started right up. From my research this seems to be a consistant issue with this car. My question is by switching off the alarm system, am I doing any long term/short term damage to the computer system/car? I have a scheduled appointment for later this week with the dealership, but from what I have read on line (going back to 2007) the car maker is aware of this glitch and has not been responsive in fixing it without being paid. I bought a warranty when I got the car back in Dec of last year, but not sure if something like this would fall under it's coverage. If just keeping the alarm system turned off allows me to start and drive my car without damage, unless they plan on fixing the glitch for free I can't see spending the hundreds of dollars I am reading it will take to fix it.
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The turn signals in the car (00 1.8t) are starting to act up. One day it'll stay on the on position and wont blink when switched either to the right or left. And on another day they will just decide to start working properly again. The hazards also follow suit. Ive checked all the bulbs all are good, took them out and put back in again. Still having problems.
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Today I came out of a store & my car started beeping the panic alarm. I don't carry the key fob with me, just a key. I unlocked the door, sat down, put the key in & turned the ignition. The lights all lit on the dashboard as normal but the car did not start. absolutely nothing. I was at a loss for what to do.
Fortunately, someone came out of the store & asked me if I needed a jump & explained what happened, and he said let me try something. He tried to start the car, then got out of it, locked the door, unlocked the door, sat back down & tried again. The car started right up.
The car is a 2014 Elantra SE with the Premium Package.
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I've had this intermittent issue for a while where the car won't start properly. What seems to happen to me is that it starts properly, but then immediately stalls. Normally during a start it will start at about 1200rpm then quickly idle back to under 1000 and then slowly reduce some more. Now at about the same time as I would expect it to idle back to 1000rpm it stalls. After this happens, it seems like I can keep reproducing the failed start over and over again if I try to start the car again. If I wait 30 seconds or so and then try to start it, it usually works.
On two or three occasions I got a warning on the dash about faulty steering lock. Checking in VAG the only errors shown are related to those, no other codes. This has happened many times over the course of perhaps two months. It's been colder during this period, but generally it seems the error happens more often when its a little warmer weather and not really cold. Lately I've been inserting the key part way, waiting a few instants for things to initialize and then starting and it seems to work every time.
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Stop immediately brake failure fault on Passat? Mine is a w8 4 motion and is riding a wrecker to the dealer.. We'll see what he says...
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I've just bought a 2002 Passat, v6 5 speed manual with 119,000 km on it. When I shift through the first two gears the rpm are not dropping immediately... about a 1 second lag. I haven't had a clear answer about what it is I have called two dealerships and two independent mechanics except. They say that it could be a variety of things that might be wrong with the throttle body.
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2001 B5.5 V6 Passat 4-motion.
there is a misfire code in plugs/wires/coil...one of those...but car isn't really running rough. the big prob i notice is when you start pushing accelerator, it wants to shift to 2nd even at like 5mph...can't be normal. can that be related to the misfire code showing up?
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On Thursday t2 weeks ago (11th) I had my 10 K service done. the next thursday (18th) I was pulling into a parking lot and a warning light came on and the screen in the dash said "Steering Column Lock Defective" I parked shut the car off tried to turn the wheel and it didn't lock. Went to the store did what I had to do came out and tried to start the car. car started but immediately died and same message was on screen. Had car towed to dealer.
They said the key somehow deprogrammed itself but they will keep the car for the weekend to make sure that was it and there was no electrical short that wiped the key memory. Got car back Monday (22nd). Was driving car home tonight (24th) car got same message on the highway. Drove the car home and shut it off. Immediately tried to restart it and it started. shut car off again and waited for all the lights to go off inside. Car starts then dies immediately. Tried spare key and same thing.
I work 6 days a week and need this car to run. I can't keep going back and forth to the dealer. Oh and another weird thing, I had my locks set to sound the horn when they lock. After I got that warning light it doesn't anymore.
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Looking for a good diagram of the complete vacuum system on the AEB 1.8t 99 passat. I am throwing a 1136 code which is indicated as a "Manufacturer controlled fuel and air metering". I recently finished a complete rebuild and engine is finally back in but running in limp mode. During the rebuild, I used mobil 1 synthetic as an assembly lube for all internal components including valve train.
I immediately wet fouled O2 sensors and spark plugs. After repeated removal and cleaning for plugs and O2 sensors i have progressed beyond seeing the "wet" fouling but plugs are still very rich, black in color but dry. Engine starts and runs at idle(lumpy) consistently and will run for as much as 5 minutes but very rich. If i rev engine to 3000-3500 rpm it will "POP" or backfire and immediately stall.
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I am new the forum but I wanted to get some information about the apparent turbo failure problem the 2012-2014 TDIs seem to be having. On other forums I have read numerous premature turbo failures. Also how long did it take to get the new parts and complete the repair. My car at this point will be in the shop for over a week. At the point when the car broke down I did not really know what was going on. The glow plug light was blinking and I immediately lost a significant amount of power. Do I need to worry about any internal engine damage from a blown turbo? I was able to get the car to the dealer at a very slow speed in a very short amount of time but this is my first diesel and first turbo so I could use some information.
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