Passat (B5) :: After Startup Idle Up To 600 RPMs Then Die Out
Apr 13, 2011
I had my license revoked for a year so my baby had sit for a year with know one to drive it.. now before i had to put her in storage she ran fine no problems what so ever.. I would time to time start her up for a while over the winter but because of family problems there was a time where she sat for couple months without starting and letting her run. Now when i had the time to do it it was like i walked up and got into a whole different car, here is what i got going on....
Go to start it up and she will idle up to 600rpms then die out i would have to give it gas to try to start her but the thing is i can only go up to 2k rpms or it will just auto drop down to about 800rpms. i would usually have to floor it all the way to even get it to stay idle by her self its not as bad anymore but still does it. Also it smells like gas like crazy when it starts up,i had a half of tank when i kept her in storage so idk if its just bad gas doing this but seems like a lot of problems just for having bad gas in it, and she puts out smoke white smoke..now i know shes running rich because me and a buddy looked into it. also there is a crazy sound since shes been sitting that has never happened before it sounds almost like the belts need to be lubed up but the belts are fine and its loud from under the front bumper my friend said he thinks i blow my turbo but I don't see how that could be just from sitting for time to time.. the car and motor has a shake to it as well.
I tried to drive her up and down my hill a couple times to see if i can just break some cob webs loose or anything but you give her gas she barely once to go and if she does she get to 2k rpms then die down and hardly moves and if i floor it to the ground it takes a bit to get up and going but then drives seeming like nothing was wrong. I have never had any of this issues before I put her for storage and now i have 4 weeks till I get to roam the streets again but sadly my b5 is dying on me.
Motor specs: Stock 1.8t 75k miles 5 speed tiptronic 1999....
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I feel my 2009 Sonata with 25k miles has a fast startup idle.
It goes upto 2200 RPMs. It runs fine otherwise.
I will keep an eye on it to get more RPMs and timing.
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2004 Santa Fe .... 2.7 6 Cyl 4WD 150k miles
Recently I started experiencing RPMs surging upon startup and driving before my engine warms up. The problem has gotten worse to where I push on the accelerator the RPMs jump to 2700 and the transmission feels like it disengages. My initial thought was the tranny was going bad and slipping. I checked the fluid level in the T and found it was maybe a half Qt. low. I topped it off, but this had no impact on the problem. On a side note, I am able to use the manual shifting feature on the "His and Hers" Shifter and drive the vehicle without any issue. Transmission works fine in manual. The surging RPMs which only occur in Automatic mode, triggered the CEL and I got a code of P0123 which is high side voltage on the Throttle Position Sensor. I replaced the gray TPS with a new black one.
Upon startup the RPMS jumped to 3000 just sitting in Park. I disassembled and reinstalled figuring I had something bound in the throttle. After reassembly the idle went up to 2200, still no good! I reinstalled the original gray TPS and the RPMs, upon starting, RPMs were 1500 with the old sensor...still too high. I did reset the ECU twice during the process of putting in the new sensor and reinstalling the old sensor. Right now I found that when I disconnect the TPS electrical connector, the engine runs normal. It starts right up with the TPS totally disconnected and idles at 750 RPMs! It will not shift to 2nd gear though, when I try to drive it in Automatic Mode. I can however drive in Manual Mode and drive normal and shift right through the gears. Who needs automatic mode right?!!!
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Even on a warm day, when I "cold start" the car....the revs hang high for a long time....at least a good minute or two. This is my first PZEV(VW) engine though--CPRA--so I'm assuming it's for the emissions? With the intake & exhaust I have on...it's obviously A LOT more noticable.
For the first 10-15 seconds, there is a HUGE sucking sound for the SAI pump and then that shuts off....but then it still screams along at 1,200-1,500 RPM's for another minute or two until it'll FINALLY settle down to idle.
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I have a 2001 Passat GLS 4 cylinder. At Idle the car surges from about 800-1200 Rpms. seems to run fine while on the gas. but always surges while not on the gas. The check engine light is on, and autozone gave the following codes :
P0411
P0102
P0135
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As listed above I own a 98 Volkswagen Passat. It seems to run just fine for the most part, but if I push on the gas and let off I notice a slight sputter. The RPM's will drop to about 800RPM up to 1000RPM and back down again and it will eventually stabilize and idle fine. My only guess that I have so far that I read on a post somewhere is that the EGR Valve tends to get gunked up and stick. I will try to clean that off.
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It just started last week, only when in drive, checked vac lines, good ignition system including new plugs, its very annoying the steering wheel even shakes, what to look into, the rpm at idle is around 500. 1.8T
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On start up (Engine cold) my rpm goes to 1200 for about 30 seconds then settles to 650, is this normal ?
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I have '05 Camry v4. Everything was fine but three days ago I started to have issues. At first I tried starting the engine it would fire up with RPMs going to about 2000 as per usual start. Instead of going down to 800 as it usually does the RPMs just keep on dropping until car stalls. On the first day it started happening I would simply try to start the car again and it would start.
Progressively it would take me more tries to start the engine. It's always the same way (be it a cold start or a start after I've just drove for a while). First try - the engine starts and stalls right away and after that I have to keep on trying to start it for some time. So finally it wouldn't start at all. Starter cranks, battery fine, but the car simply would not start. Weird part about it, is that once the car starts it acts completely normal. No spikes in RPMs, no loss of power, nothing! At this point I just don't know what the hell it is.
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I've had my 2000 Honda Accord V6 for about 3 years now and have had an idling issue pretty much since I purchased it. After driving for at least 50+ miles, and if its hot out it can easily have this issue as well, and leaving the car be for around 15 to 30 minutes, on start up the car drops RPMs immediately and dies. Multiple tries and it will do the exact same thing. Recently I found out a trick to make it work correctly which is revving the engine to 2000RPM for about 3-4 minutes, slowly dropping it down to 1500 RMP for around the same 3-4 minutes and finally down to 1000 RPM for an additional 3-4 minutes and letting off the gas. Usually after doing this the engine idles fine, car drives great. However, it must be noted that on Summer days with temperatures in the 85+ range, if I'm climbing (going up a hill for a long distance) the car might bog down on me, will not go above 50MPH and I have to pull off the side of the road for 45+ minutes before the car will run correctly again. This has happened about 3 or 4 times in the 3 years I've owned the car.
I would rather not have to rev the engine in hopes this fixes the issue each time so I'm wondering what could be the cause in the first place? I've replaced so many things including spark plugs, ignition coils, battery, idle air control valve, gasket, fuel pump, fuel pump relay and on. I gas the car up with Chevron gasoline, I've dumped in I don't know how many different fuel injector cleaners and have also tried Heet as well as Sea Foam cleaner. I've also had the car checked for vacuum leaks.
I've asked multiple mechanics if this could possibly be a vapor lock issue, but they all turn that idea down. They tell me that since the car is fuel injected this can't be the issue..but, I don't know, could it be the issue?
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I have a 1998 Chevy Blazer (2WD) with 115k miles. When I turn the key and start the car, the RPMs rev up really high for about 4 seconds and then drop down real low until the car dies. All in all this is about an 8-second process, and it sounds like I'm flooring the accelerator when, in fact, I'm not even touching it. The Blazer just started doing this, but previously for about the last few months about once a month, when I would start the car I would get a loud backfire sound which sounded like it came from under the hood (driver's side), and this was followed by the smell of exhaust coming into the cab through the AC vents. How to go about diagnosing this since I'm unable to drive it to get the codes read
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Recently when I start my car, it starts fine when it's cold because it will idle high until it warms up, but if I start it while it's warm the rpms drop to about 500 barely idlling and if I tap the gas a couple of times the problem goes away and it idles normally at about 700.
I recently also replaced the o-ring on the distributor because it was leaking oil. I reset the timing twice. It is hard to get an accurate reading in the dark, looking at a little timing mark 3 feet away, but I am sure it is at 10 BTDC.
New wires, new thermostat, air filter could be a little dirty, other than that, I am thinking it might be an oily sensor or something else?
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Car has been running flawlessly up until about 3 days ago. One morning got in started up and started misfiring at idle. Didn't think much of it as it does that on cold start. Driving down the highway when I apply 5-10% light throttle the car bucks and doesn't feel smooth. WOT is fine. Pulled into a gas station to fill up and it stalled as soon as I put it in neutral. When I tried to start it back up it started for a second then stalled out again. Finally I gave it some gas while I started it up and got it to idle on its own (idled around 600 rpm, down from my usual 800 rpm).
At this point I am thinking boost/vacuum leak. I leave the gas station and get caught in traffic. Car is not overheating. All of the sudden I notice a bunch of white smoke coming from the tail pipes. I pull over pop the hood to check coolant. No leaks and bottle is full. The white smoke smells like burnt oil. finally notice a VERY small oil leak at my turbo oil feed line. I checked the oil level and it was still exactly where it needs to be.
I have my buddy at the dealership looking over it now but I am really worried that I might have blew the turbo..
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If my car's been sitting - say monday morning after sitting all weekend in the garage- it runs rough for a little while. Sometimes only for a few seconds, sometimes for a little while after the idle drops. The colder the car is, the longer and worse the condition. It feels like a cylinder isn't firing.
After a particularly cold and wet spell (I had the car outside) it ran so badly it threw a code for one of the cam position sensors and #4 misfire. I replaced both of the sensors. That worked a little.
Since I was due for 80k service and saw a misfire when damp, I replaced the ignition coils along with the spark plugs. That worked a little more. But, it still does it. What else could it be if not ignition? Sticky valve? something else?
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As the weather is getting colder I noticing again my RPM's taking longer to drop down to 1200 or less. Upon startup the engine rev's to 2000 and drops in 2 sec quickly to around 1500 (all these are based on the crude gauge readings, not a digital tach).
I don't like high RPM cold starts in the first place and why its stays just around 1500 and lower for about 2 minutes before it lowers to around 1200RPM. I don't like engaging the transmission at those high RPM's. My other vehicles did nothing like this and the increased start RPM was down 1000 within a minute.
What sensor is having the computer run it like that and not let it drop faster. I doubt its the O2 sensor since its the same on a hot day just doesn't rev up to 2k but 1500 or so. Jabs at the gas pedal doesn't work it drop any sooner either.
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I have a 1999 Toyota Tacoma pickup, 5 speed stick 4 cylinder. When I first start it up it runs at a lower idle than it should. But as soon as it warms up just a bit the idle goes to about 12-15K rpm. Also, when it sits during the day and it's warm outside it will start up with the fast idle.
I don't know if this is coincidence or not but, I found a rabbit sleeping under the hood during the winter (this has been going on for a while). The rabbit chewed through a vacuum hose and a spark plug wire. The vacuum hose was split right by the fitting so I just cut off the 1 1/2" of tubing and re-attached it. The spark plug wire I didn't know was damaged until I drove it for about 5 miles or so when I finally got out to see why it was still running bad. I then had to drive another 5 or so miles to the auto parts store to replace it. I have replaced all the spark plug wires just to be sure. What this would be?
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2008 SONATA i4. The transmission started to whine a lot when first driven when cold, well transmission was replaced under warranty due to "pump failure"? I noticed that the loaner car I received for tranny replacement had a knock at startup so I called and told the dealership about it, they said it was the timing chain, it was a v6, oddly it didn't sound like timing chain to me, started after fast idle and went away within about 100 feet of driving.
2 days after I got my car back it would knock after I started it up cold when it came down off fast idle, and would knock for about 100 feet of driving or so, then the knock would disappear until the next cold start. exactly like the loaner V6. Well took my car in to have it looked at, got another loaner, 09 sonata I4, same knock, service couldn't replicate problem with my car.
Went ahead and got oil change, drove car home and the next day it had the same knock at startup when cold. Just took it back to dealership to have them look at irregular tap/knock when warm at idle, also car still has startup knock, but just not as loud.
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2001 Buick Regal with approx 250,000 miles. 3.8L V6. Non supercharged It's my son's car. Used to be mine, I bought it with 19,000 on the clock.
The battery succumbed to the cold weather last Monday. On Tuesday, I put a new battery in, which itself now works fine. However, since then, the car refused to idle decently. It'll idle right after startup, but once you put it in gear, it'll die. When you start it, it seems to idle normally, you can let it warm up a bit and it'll settle down to about 900 rpm. BUT! Once you put it in gear, it'll stumble and die.
This problem started after battery replacement, so I have to wonder if it's somehow related to that. It ran fine before the battery died. I checked everything over thoroughly, and visually everything looks OK. No loose wires or hoses, etc.;
Today is the first time I've had to work on it since the new battery, so I thought I'd get it out there. I'm getting ready to go put a scan tool on it and will report back with those results.
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On startup, hot or cold, I get an initial high idle, up to around 1800 rpm's. This happens immediately when engine starts, and then idles right down. This has done this since new in '04. Dealer at that time said it was normal and not to worry. It's always made me wonder, but I trusted the dealer. Ya, not always smart.
After 92k miles. Engine runs fine otherwise, but I don't really care for grabbing a bunch of rpm's on any engine without having the oil pressure up to normal.
A few weeks ago, I started it up, and some yahoo said he knew I drove big trucks by the way I started my Ranger. That was one of those times. I'm thinking IAC is wide open maybe?
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I've got a 2003 ford f-150 with a 4.6l 150000 miles. when it is started the rpms are at 2000 for about a min. and a half then it drops to normal when its started cold. when started at operating temp. The rpms are at 2000 for about 30 to 45 sec then drop to normal. The iac, upper and lower intake gaskets, intake run controller valve, dfbe, low intake and shield, coolant temp. sensor, intake air temp. sensor, egr, egr regulator valve, maf, ecm have all been swapped out no vacuum leaks all line in good condition tps voltage reading of 0.84v...
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Here is the noise that I am getting... Ignore the ticks and such, I'm talking about the LOUD whining noise at startup, and continuing at idle(although somewhat quieter)
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Some information : 2006 Camry 2.4L.
I have removed the belt to verify that the noise is not from any belt-driven components. Using an Engine Ear, it gets louder towards the exhaust manifold, but apart from starting to tear things down.
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