Passat (B5) :: After A Couple Seconds Car Beeped About 3 Times Then Turned Off
Dec 27, 2010
Ok so about a month ago I went to the store got into my car turned on my car after a couple seconds it beeped about 3 times then turned off i turned it back on and it worked fine ... and now yesterday i was driving the car everything was fine till i was driving on the freeway and it beeped 3 times again and looked like it was going to turn off but didn't .... and about a half hour later driving doing about 45 mph the car beeps and turned off on me ... So I pulled over and just turned the car on and it worked fine again ...
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I have a 2000 passat wagon 1.8t and recently my oil pressure light comes on after engine temp. reaches about 175degrees... but it only comes on when I am running below 1650rpm's it will come on and beep and flash a couple times then go away what could cause this... oil pump? worn camshaft?
It does leak oil from somewhere on the bottom half of the block but its a very very very small leak and its had that since i got the car about 3 years ago. The car has 193,xxx miles on it now and I've also noticed i have cracked and broken oil breather hose? ... that starts from underneath the intake manifold...
Y+This hose goes from the engine block to the back of the engine then forward to the other side of the engine to my air filter... I've removed this hose and it is infact broken and dry rotted into about 4 pieces but I don't even know what the hell it is it also looks like i'll have to remove the intake manifold to put this hose back on and on the engine block!!
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I heard a new beeping behavior this morning. Four beeps when I pushed the start button. Just wondering what this means and why it beeped four times instead of one?
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I am having this weird issue that started from what I believe this weekend. I was doing 70mph and it was snowing. Not always but something like maybe 1 out of 5 times when I activated the washer fluid motor my headlights would turn off for like 1-2 seconds. Super scary when you are driving in the pitch dark on a highway.
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I have a 07 Passat, manual 2.0T, 90 kmiles.
There was a recall for some faulty circuit in the steering column, which got replaced in September. Ever since the replacement, about once a week (with a daily commute of 40 miles each way, mostly congested highway), the following happens:
First the engine revs up for a couple of seconds when I change gears, to 4-5kRPM. Then within 5 minutes, I get a "Parking Brake Fault" message, together with the yellow P light staying on. If I stop the engine, I cannot restart it for 30 minutes or so, there's a message that says "depress clutch first".
When I finally manage to restart, I won't have a problem for about a week. Is this common?
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There is a fan noise every 30 seconds in the engine compartment behind the passengers headlight area. Is there a fan motor there? Could it be disconnected without hurting anything? I can't determine if there is a fuse related to this or not.
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Factory alarm system.
Sometimes I unlock my car and it beeps a couple times, sometimes it beeps more.
What do the various beeps mean?
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My car has 16k miles and I've had to add coolant a couple of times. Is this normal? I've never had to add coolant on other cars.
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I was driving and instrument panel flickered on and off a couple of times then stayed off. Also now battery, about 1 year old, doesn't stay charged. Would it be short in wiring? Or what?
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I just bought a 2004 Kia sedona ex, it was running great when I got it, and it has 81000 miles. On the way home it kind of sputtered a couple of times, then the engine light came on. I took it to autozone and they said 2, 4, and 6 was misfiring. I called the dealer and they said that it was probably because I didn't click the gas cap three times. Could that be the cause or do I need to change the spark plugs or coil or something??
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I was driving my Chevrolet Silverado 1500 4 wheel drive single cab when it sputtered a couple of times I came to a stop light and the car stopped I tried starting it to no avail. I also noticed I did not hear the fuel pump run as normal when truck is in accessory position . When my buddy showed up I had him try and start the truck as I banged on the gas tank and it would run when I stopped so did the truck...
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Today I got the engine light blink a couple of times and then steady on. Parked the car, waited a few minutes, start again just the engine light on (not blinking anymore).
I scanned the car and got this
VCDS-Lite Version: Release 1.2
Tuesday, 06 August 2013, 13:48:09:11637
Chassis Type: 3D - B5 VW Phaeton
Scan: 01,02,03,05,06,07,08,09,11,15,16,17,18,19,23,27,34 ,35,36,37,38,42,46,48,49,52,55,56,57,61,62,65,68,6 9,72,76,77
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Address 01: Engine Labels: None
Controller: 07C 906 018 C
[Code] .....
I have a hard time believing that all coil packs went bad. My wife told me that when she was driving the car she could hear a clicking noise coming from the trunk so I think this could the fuel pump not giving enough fuel but I was hoping to get an error for it.
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So this morning on my way to work, open highway, late for work... I did what most chewbaccas would do. Turn of ESP, and punch it! Well that quickly become an issue. My CEL started flashing for a couple seconds. As soon as it happened I let off of the accelerator, turned ESP back on, and coasted... lil bit loud in the back, but it normally is. (HFC, 3inch EIP Comp exhaust) The CEL went away.. but I'm nervous about what could have happened. I just replaced my Haldex Pump a couple months ago, and the rear diff was replaced 3-4 years ago. I haven't scanned it yet, I'll do that when I get home tonight... I tried to do a quick search in the forums but didn't come up with anything significant .
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I have a 1997 LeSabre with 180000 miles. I can drive the car for 4-5 miles before it stalls and then dies. the car will start to idle fast, then bottom out a couple of times before it dies. It also makes a horrible noise under the hood and sounds like the rods are all clanging together. Once it dies, it will not restart until it has sat there for 30-40 minutes. After sitting for some time, it will crank right up and then repeat the process again. My oil pressure is off the chart high and it stays there all the time. Does this have something to do with the problem of is that another problem all together? What is causing my car to die like this and how do i fix it?
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I replaced the speed sensor in the differential yesterday, but it didn't make a lick of difference. I've been having intermittent problems with the speedo ever since I bought the truck. When the speedo starts acting up, the truck will sometimes momentarily cut out and buck a couple of times. It was first mentioned this post, post # 35. I had the truck in the shop for a new oil cooler, EGR delete, standpipes, dummy plugs and STC fittings, and when I got it back it ran worse than before as detailed here in post #1. It turned out I had a torn IPR screen.
I replaced that and it cleared up all of the problems I had except for the speedo problem I originally had. The truck actually ran perfectly on the way home from work yesterday, about 20 miles. No speedo problems and no cutting out. This is not unusual, as the problem is only intermittent. I put the new VSS in last night but did not drive it until this morning. This morning, same thing again, speedo swinging crazily. When cruising about 70 it the speedo would suddenly jump up to about 90 and that is when the truck would cut out and buck a couple of time. The VSS is a Dorman product and proudly displays "MADE IN CHINA".
Should I try a better quality sensor? Rock Auto sells an Airtex/Wells sensor that seems to be of good quality, but I can't determine where it was manufactured. The only reason I bought the Dorman is because I could get it next day from Amazon. Should I be looking at another source for the problem? This is very discouraging because this one thing is what is keeping the truck from being mechanically sound, and I'm trying to get it ready to tow an RV this summer.
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I have a 2009 corolla with about 125,00. I bought it used about two years ago and it has been trouble free. This morning when I went to start it, about 29F with heavy frost on the windows, it would fire up run for a couple of seconds and cut off. I id this probably 20 times and gave up. I called a neighbor to take me to my bus and thought I would try it one more time. fired right up and stayed running. Also started right up when I tried it later when I got back from work.
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2009 Hyundai Accent w/~90k miles
The other day my car failed, showing all the signs of a bad alternator (battery light on, lights dimming/flickering, etc.).Had a mechanic look at it and it was definitely the alternator - the bracket had even broken - as well as the battery.After replacing, though, it still has a problem with charging the battery, at least on initial start.Basically, when you start the car, the battery light comes on immediately. Hit the accelerator or drive 15-20 feet and the battery light goes out and the alternator starts charging again.
The mechanic thinks it is a wiring problem and said that would cost 800+ to fix. He suggested I just live with it. Does his diagnosis seem correct? Are there other things I should look at and/or test?
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Yesterday my truck began to give me some problems starting. The engine turns over just a couple of times then it sounds like the starter disengages and winds up. it took multiple attempts but it finally fired up. Does this sound like the starter or could it possibly be the starter relay?
2002 F350 CCLB Lariat 7.3
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It was pretty warm this afternoon, had the AC on full blast. Drove into a left turn lane and stopped for the red arrow, the engine began spurring for a couple seconds. Then it caught itself but afterward felt the whole car shake for like a minute, drove off once it was a green arrow and nothing else happened. Has any one else had this or a similar experience happened to them? My Camry just hit 30k miles, I wonder if it just had a "spaz" (or whatever you want to call it) attack.
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I'm experiencing an annoying problem with the air recirculation value on my Touareg. Basically it will randomly go into oscillations for a coupld of seconds, where is sounds like the vent blowers are either speeding up and slowing down quickly, or the recirculation valve is opening and closing rapidly.
This seems to happen randomly, and usually only lasts for a couple of seconds. I've taken it to the dealer twice but they aren't able to determine the cause of the problem.
Here is my theory for what it's worth. I think it may be the recirculation valve, whose job is to close the external air value from outside air to recirculating internal air when it senses pollutants in the outside air. I think the problem is caused by one of two scenerios;
1) the sensor is bad or failing and sends random signals to the vent controller causing it to open and close rapidly, or
2) The control circuit is not tuned correctly, thus instead of waiting to see if the pollutants it senses is sustained, it reacts instantaneously.
The noise this produces is quite annoying!
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Just rescued this 2004 from a driveway death. While checking out a no A/C condition I notice that the A/C compressor cycles on for about 10-15 seconds then stops, does this 4 times and then ends. System shows low pressure but doesn't run long enough to build up any. Need to get the OBD-2 tester on it.
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