Passat (B5) :: AWM 1.8T - Smokey Cold Starts / No CEL
Jun 30, 2010
Getting quite a bit of smoke at start-up in the mornings. I expect this from my diesel Jetta but not from my 1.8T. The car has 185,000 km on it and I'm the original owner. Maintenance has been followed to the letter - correct VW-spec synthetic oil since the first oil change as well. There are no major issues with the car..............aside from the smokey starts that started recently. No CEL or codes either. What could be up it?
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I am pretty sure my heater core is failing and has been for a while (no drip, but coolant smell). Today when I turned on the A/C, I got a nasty, smokey mist from the vents along with the cold air. The fog/mist smells like coolant but with a burned, somewhat oily smell.
2004 ranger, 3.0, 2wd, ext cab, 193,000 mi --- also, what if any, special tools do I need to R&R heater core. The last heater core I did was an 83 GMC p/u and it was a breeze; handful of sockets and I was done - I have heard the ranger will be quite a bit tougher.
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I just brought the car into the shop to have the transmission fluid pan gasket changed, then have the fluid refilled with the proper OEM fluid. Prior to that it had Redline transmission fluid and was working fine.
The shop I took it to only works on VW and Audi and the mechanic told me I HAD to use OEM transmission fluid or I could damage the transmission. Now when I hit the gas pedal on every cold start it jerks into first gear but never does it again, until the next cold start.
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01 V-6 2.8 30V 90000 mi, now hear cam chain noise rattle for appx one second on cold starts only didnt do it before the timing belt was just replaced,why is it doing it now
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My 2006 santa fe diesel 2.2 has started to be be a bit smokey when accelerating not even hard had the egr valve off today and gave it a good clean still the same it's not really bad but can see when moving off from parked...
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I want to change the glow-plugs on my 2004 Santa Fe CRDI to see if it cures its rough/smokey start up, but I am not sure of their location. I think they might be under the intercooler, but I don't want to strip it all down to find out they are not there.
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I have a 'mysterious' problem, that has stumped Ford mechanics and everyone else that I've taken it to; my 1991 Explorer will 'start' COLD,drive great as far as you want, but don't cut the key off!!! It will not start 'hot'!! You have to let it 'cool' all of the way back to cold!!! I have driven it all day long, making stops of up to three hours, and it never quit ONCE!! Used a lot of gas !!! We've changed all types of parts BUT nothing has worked... I put it in a 'Garage' to be looked at and all they did was 'blow' the engine up. They didn't fix my mysterious problem and now won't release the car, unless I pay them.. I got the tires off at night!!!
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My 06 trailblazer started having issues when the weather was below 30 degrees at night. The following morning when I start it, it starts up and idles for about 5 to 10 seconds and then shuts off. Turn the key again and nothing, just dashboard lights come on. Wait a few minutes and try again.. Fires up, shuts off. If it's above 30 degrees but less then 45 to 50 outside I can use a lighter and hear up the key, put it back in the ignition and fire it up. Sometimes it takes 3 or 3 tries of reheating the key but then it will stay running.
As long as I run the heat and keep the inside warm it stays running, if the inside gets cold it will shut off again while your driving. If it's below 30 degrees outside the key trick won't work no matter how many times you try. If the temperature outside is above 50 it will fire up and drive all day without any hesitation. My husband replaced the ignition switch, alternator and battery and none worked. It's now been at the shop for 2 weeks and still can't get it figured out. The shop has tried heating up just the computer while it's out in the cold and it fires up and stays running but if he leaves the doors open and the inside gets cold it shuts off again.
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The problem I have is when it is cold out under 40 degrees, my car starts rough and idles rough until it gets to temperature. My research has concluded it may be cold start. Does this sound right?
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I have a 95 Ford mustang GT. When it is cold outside (Below 40 ish) it starts for about 1 second, dies abd the second time starts fine. has check engine light for lean exhaust. vacume pressure fine and been using injector cleaner but no improvement. replaced spark plug/ wires pcv valve.
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I have this problem for some time already. Most of the time my AC works great - blowing cold air as it should. But sometimes it starts blowing "normal" air instead of cold. To fix that I have to turn OFF and then ON the AC again by pressing the AC button.
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I have a 1993 Toyota MR2 Turbo with about 150,000 miles on it. For the past several years on a cold start (it doesn't seem to matter what the outside temperature is, just that the car has sat for a long time, like overnight), if I try to drive away immediately the car will chug. It almost feels like the car is choking or is not firing. It happens mostly on acceleration above 2500 rpm and in 2nd and 3rd gears, getting worse as you go higher in the gears.
After a few minutes the problem goes away and the car will run fine. Also, if I start the car and let it idle for 5-6 minutes it seems like the car will run fine without the chugging.
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I've been experiencing ENGINE RPM FLUCTUATION on cold starts. I took it into the dealer and they found an update available for the ECU and reprogrammed the ECU.
2009 Santa Fe ?
So far it appears to have corrected the RPM Fluctuation on a cold start... I see TSB 10-FL-010 cover this but also suggests to replace the Throttle Position Sensor which wasn't done on my vehicle.
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I recently bought a 2004 V10 TDI. When it is quite cold outside, below -15C my Treg will not start, it starts sometimes but will stall immediately. I cannot get it started unless I wait a few days until it is warmer out. When I start it, I wait for the glow plug light to go out but it only takes less than a second, is that normal? I am thinking its the diesel gelling and I need to add an additive to it possibly, or do I need to replace my glow plugs. If I am persistent, I can sometimes get it going after 10 or 12 attempts but I feel I am going to overheat the starter so I am scared to do that often, once started, it runs fine but has tons of CEL codes which are all glow plug errors, I will clear them off, and they will not return.
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I remember reading very recently about someone who found a fix to the strong fuel odor on cold starts. I can't seem to find it anywhere. I think it mentioned something about a bad ignition coil or something.
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Ok so I have a 2004 Mitsubishi Outlander Sport AWD. It has started to over heat only when stopped at a stop light and only when the A/C is on. It will red line and as soon as I start to drive the gauge will drop back to normal. Then as soon as I stop again it will red line. But when I turn the A/C off it will fall back down to 3/4 over heat and drop immediately as I start driving. I notice that the A/C will go from ice cold to blowing hot air when it starts to over heat. I took it to the shop and they did a pressure test on the cooling system and it didn't do it again and the shop said that they couldn't find anything wrong with the car. It didn't do it for about 2 weeks and just now it started back again!!!!!!
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The oil light on my 2005 Chryler Town & Country comes on when started when it is cold outside. It stays on until I turn the key off and restart, then it goes out and does not come back on. My mechanic cannot find anything wrong. This only happens in cold weather, not in the summer.
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When its cold outside it starts and runs good for about a second and then shuts off or runs really rough and then takes off. I tried turning it off and starting it about 4 times. After the fourth time I gave it a little gas and it started after that. If the block heater is plugged in it starts fine. And starts great the rest of the day after the initial start. It is not that cold here, lower 20's in the morning. Where to start with this problem?
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I own a 1996 Toyota Celica. When the car is cold it starts and run for about 5 minutes then dies. When I try to start the car, with the key in the 'on' position, I have no check engine light. If I crank the engine and release the key to the 'run' position, the 'check engine' light turns on. When the car is cold or I leave it to rest for a couple hours and I turn the key on the 'check engine' light turns on. it is after the car stalls out i have this problem. At this point if I spray some starter fluid into the intake the car attempts to start. I thought that it was the pump so I installed a new one. Fuel pressure is good. It seems to me that the injectors are not working.
Is it the computer? Given that fuel is getting to the injectors but the injectors are not firing, Given that I have ignition since when I spray starter fluid into the intake the car fires up and runs until it runs out of starter fluid. Where do I start? I have not used a noid light as yet to check the injector harness and as you all know the harness is a little difficult to get at because of its location under the intake.
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Well, started to get belt squeak during cold starts. The idler pulley was changed many miles ago for same issue, but it seems to be starting up again. There are NO tutorials for serpentine belt replacement on this gen of RX.
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Owner of a 2014 350 fsport here.... 15,000 miles ... I noticed on cold starts a slightly rough idle since its gotten colder here recently. After starting the car it'll start fine and everything but then as its warming up the needle sometimes jumps 75-100 rpm. its like someone tapped their foot on the accelerator and let off. no lights or anything and the car runs fine.
Heres the catch... i have a joe z catback and joe z intake with fsport filter, could this possibly be why? because of the airflow ? i also have been using Lucas fuel injector cleaner and lubricant.
Also when i put the car in park after driving, i notice the needle isn't steady, it does move a little maybe 20-50rpm, not sure if this is normal or not because i never really paid attention until now.
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