Passat (B5) :: AC Compressor Would Switch Off When Car Stopped
Jun 4, 2013
My AC is no longer running. Last summer it would struggle to get cold, but when in motion it did pretty well - just not freezing cold. Last few weeks it seemed like the compressor would switch off when stopped. Then past week, I hit the AC button (light comes on, fan switches to low, and the relay clicks) but it sounds like the AC compressor isn't engaging. The dryer is frosty to the touch, but the low and high ports in the bay are warm/hot. I checked the pressure and it was through the roof. I vented some (I know I know) out, but all that came out mostly was air with a bit of the refrigerant squirt once or twice during the vent. Still no success. Should there be air coming out of the low pressure port?
AWM 1.8t
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The A/c stopped blowing cold on my 06 Passat 2.0t. I checked the pressures on the low side of the system and it was 100 psi with a cold engine and 130 when hot. Obviously this is too much. It seems as if the compressor is always engaged even when the a/c is off (every part of the a/c pulley is always spinning the little nut sticking out of the center of the pulley spins as well not but im not sure if that's how it is when the compressor isn't engaged).
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My sister has 03 wagon GLX and her a/c just stopped working one day. It was a few months ago and I remember when it happened that I scanned w/ VAG-COM and it gave some sort of pressure switch code - can't remember if it was low or high, but at time she wasn't concerned w/ it ($$ was tight). Unfortunately, I saved info on my laptop and can't find the document now and the car isn't throwing the code any more (I tried turning a/c on several times).
It sounds like a pressure switch to me, but not sure what the part would be (or where it is located on car). Any tests I can perform to confirm this? Also, I see two listed on ECS and they're nothing alike
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2004 Santa Fe (GLS 2.7L)
First off, the A/C has not worked since I bought the vehicle used. I have checked all the SMALL fuses (10-25 amp) that can be easily determined good or bad, both under the dash and under the hood, so this basically rules that out (right?). I was unsure of how to check the larger, plug-like fuses under the hood. I am about 85% sure the A/C compressor does not engage when the A/C switch is pushed (yes, the light on the A/C button inside does come on and stay on). This is because I am unsure of which pulley is the A/C compressor and where exactly it is located under the hood. My research showed that it should be the bottom-right pulley when looking at the car from the passenger side, but I could be wrong on this. The fact that I just moved to Florida from the midwest a few weeks ago makes this a rather urgent problem.
Next, after a recent oil change there has been a harsh knocking, diesel-like noise coming from the front-right (passenger) side under the hood. Further inspection seems to show that it is coming from the area of the A/C compressor (or where I'm assuming it is). Again, I'm wondering if this is related to the A/C compressor. This noise is not normal, and has only recently begun to be a problem. It happens during initial startup, can be heard during acceleration, and only seems to quiet down a bit during idling after the vehicle has been warmed up. But it is now always present.
Finally, when fueling I have noticed that filling the car prevents it from starting! I am forced to shift into neutral and rev the car while simultaneously turning the ignition. This does the job, and once the car is started, it runs fine and the problem only ever happens immediately after fueling...any thoughts from the more "mechanically-inclined" out.
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The mechanic said i needed a new compressor and high pressure switch.
Do I have to have the system evacuated first or can i change out the switch with the system loaded??
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I have a 2008 Chevy Equinox, and have had issues with the air conditioner for a while (see my other post: [URL] ....).
Lately, if the car is stopped in traffic or at a red light, I cannot get any cold air. The compressor will turn on, but only 2-3 seconds, then it shuts back off. It will cycle like this, on and off, about every 10-15 seconds while I am stopped. Each time this happens, the RPMs jump and the car lurches forward a little as well. As soon as I start moving at a decent speed (20 mph or so), the air gets cold again.
The recommendation from my other thread was to replace the heater control module.
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