Passat (B5) :: A/C Works Only For A Bit And Then Shuts Off - Engine Temperature Rises And Cools Quickly
Jul 28, 2008
Our B5.5. wagon with 1.8t and automatic just went in for recall work. Embarrassingly, I don't even know what the recall was for, I only remember something about cars catching on fire.
Since we picked it up the AC only works for maybe 10 minutes at a time and then switches off. The engine temp gets really high and then cools back rather quickly. Occasionally the temp warning goes off. We scheduled an appointment to take it back in to the dealer but of course they can't take it till next week.
In the mean time, have any of you experienced something similar? Perhaps the AC goes off because of the engine temp sensor? Better to overheat the passengers than the motor? If so then the problem is the temp or the temp sensory?
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I have a 1.8T with 152kmiles
Recently, both the coolant reservoir 'Y' connector and the driver side coolant flange cracked and I was shooting G12 all over the engine. I've replaced both of the parts and the coolant temp sensor with a "green top". Reservoir was refilled with the proper ratio of G12 to distilled water, ran for a bit and topped off accordingly.
This morning I started my drive to work and the engine temp was at 0 for a minute or so and started to climb slowly to 190. It stayed at 190 until I took the exit to the highway and the temp slowly started to rise while I was at 60mph. I immediately turned around and went back home with the heat cranked to high. With the heat on, the engine temp would slowly go down but then rise again if I, A. turned the heat off or B. made a hard pull up to ~55+mph.
I popped the hood and the coolant was not boiling and I couldn't see/smell/hear any leak. could this be the thermostat or is this a water pump issue? I plan on taking the thermostat off and checking the pump empellars for any shards. I'm not sure but I do believe the water pump was replaced by my parents while I was on deployment.
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I have a 1992 Chevy 1500 5.7L V8 with 167,000 miles that is running hot. When I drive the vehicle the temperature quickly rises to just about 250 degrees and hovers just under the "red" zone. It never fully overheats, even on longer drives (50+ miles). It seem to run just fine otherwise. It is not leaking coolant and I have not had to fill the radiator. My first thought was that the thermostat was bad, but wouldn't that be an "all or nothing" issue? Where should I start looking for the problem? It has been going on for about 3 weeks, and I want to get it resolved quickly.
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About 4500 miles ago, I had the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, and all the accessory belts replaced and now, the water temp gauge sometimes rises rapidly from "normal" all the way to the "red" and back within about 15 seconds! This is on a 2006 Elantra GT
Should I replace the "coolant temp sensor" or do I have a real problem that needs repair?
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So a week ago the Check Engine light comes on. I take it in and just got a call that the Secondary Cooling Pump has failed. Apparently it's a pump that cools down the turbo and other things after the car is shut off. I only have 44,000 miles on the TDI too.
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I have a 1999 passat 1.8t and its having problems accelerating. When you hit the gas pedal the idle rises and drops constantly. What this is?
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2003 F 150. 5.4 motor. 4x4. 270,000 miles. Climate control.
The A/C is ice cold.. For the first 12-15 miles, and then it shuts off and is warm.
I had it recharged at the shop just to be sure. When it works, it blows out the vent at approx. 42 degrees.. nice and cold.
This problem happens every time. Turning the climate control off and then back on doesn't work.
Shutting the truck off and then back on doesn't work. Wait a while.. Not quite sure how long, but the next time I drive it, it will work again. For about 12-15 miles and then blows warm again.
A bit of funky , moist smell to it when it blows warm.. Typical A/C smell I think.. The box could prob use a cleaning.
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I have a 2013 Passat TDI with remote starter, when I start the car it runs until I unlock the doors and then the engine shuts off, I know there is something I am doing wrong but can't seem to find the information in the manual on how to keep the engine running.
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I have a problem with my prius 2004. When i start my prius then the Fan is always on with coolest temperature and air-con is also on. How I fix this problem? Is there any reset method to off the fan when I push on the power button or any method fan works with hot temperature.
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My 2006 Audi TT 3.2 is making a noise that sounds like a chicken. It rises with revs too.
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If I don't warm the car up, the car will drive longer. However, once it gets up to operating temperature, it shuts off. The temperature gauge doesn't indicate it is overheating, however if I turn my heat on full blast it does not shut off. I have replaced the fuel filter and spark plugs already and know it could be one of many things but am not sure where to start now.
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When the temperature is above freezing, the Passenger Airbag light is always "Airbag Off" and the flashing red light does NOT engage, regardless of whether a passenger is sitting in the seat and regardless of whether the seat belt is latched.
When the temperature dips below freezing, the system works as expected:
No passenger: light is "Airbag"
Passenger with seat belt: light is "Airbag On"
Passenger with no seat belt: light is "Airbag On" with red flashing seat belt sign
I can't imagine the issue is related to a component inside the passenger compartment (the seat weight or latch sensors), as the temperature inside the vehicle is usually above 60 F. That said, are there any components outside the compartment (under the car or in the engine compartment) that could be causing this behavior? Is this a water freezing/unfreezing issue, caught in some wiring somewhere?
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Just got the 2010 passat two days ago. As you know, when you press the accelerator, the E brake releases. When i do this, the back of the car rises up just a bit as the brake hasnt fully released, but can this wear out the brake quicker, since im effectivly driving with the e brake half on for that half second. Im pretty sure it wont as I think it uses the rear disk brake for the E brake, but curious what others think.
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My engine temp gets too hot when revving the engine but cools down at idle. The top rad hose is hot and the bottom rad hose is cool. I'm suspecting a stuck thermostat?
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99 Toyota Avalon, 3.6 L engine, 160k milesThe engine sends radiator fluid to the overflow reservoir but doesn't suck it back into the engine when it cools.My mechanic replaced the radiator, cap, and hoses...no change. So. he put a chemical in the radiator fluid that is supposed to form a plug to stop a leak. After ~5 months of waiting, still no plug...no change. Tomorrow, I'm bring it back to him. If he says it needs a new head gasket, do you agree? If so, what would be a reasonable cost? Also, this timing belt has 68,000 miles on, do you think I should have him replace it, too (since he is doing work on the engine)?Do you think I am foolish to put the cost of repairs into this vehicle? The rest of the vehicle is good. We've had it since 2000 and have kept up with maintenance and services.
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While I am driving my Passat randomly shuts off and then will not start for 5 min - a few hours. No beeps or warnings, the car just shuts off. When I try to restart it, everything sounds normal, the engine turns over fine, but it just wont start.
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I have an 08 that the heater either works all hot or cold. It seems that when i try to control the temp it isnt consistent. It will be on hot, turned all the way the right in the red. Great, it gets too warm in the truck so turn it down a little. Then it is too cold. I only turned it down a little, not even in the blue zone yet. I turn it up a little and it is still cold. Turn it all the way up and it is too hot again. What is up with this. I hope it isnt the blend door syndrome. The truck only has 30,000 on it.
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2006 Passat 2.0t. With the engine cold, the a/c will blow warm until the engine gets up to operating temp and the rad fan kicks on. After that, it will stay on and blow cold all day. I would think the rad fan should kick on as soon as I turn on the a/c to get air flow moving across the condenser as in every other car I have ever owned.
Does rad fan kick on as soon as you turn on the a/c? I'm thinking that i might have a problem with a relay that suppose to kick the rad fan on. I used my VAG.com software and its showing no faults.
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I don't get it. Usually after I've driven the car, either of the remotes (I've changed batteries on both) do not work. However, if I go into a store and come out 10 minutes later, both remotes will lock, unlock, open the trunk, sound the emergency horn without any problems.
I've even replaced the Keyless Entry Theft Cont Module, which is basically the Remote Entry receiver located in the trunk. I still have the exact same problem with the new receiver.
The remote fobs have new batteries, and one is brand new and programmed with a GM Tech Tool II. The system's receiver is new.
What else could it be. Why does the remote entry only work when the car has been sitting idyll for a while.
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Recently (3 months ago) I had the timing belt, thermostat , water pump changed . Just yesterday I noticed that the engine temperature gauge was all the way to the left and did not seem to be functioning. I do not know if it had been like this for the 3 months since the maintenance work....maybe not. But, the guage is not working.
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I have a 2012 Passat 2.0 TDI (140) DSG
Sometimes the engine temperature stays low for an entire drive. Regardless of speed - it has happened while sitting in traffic for hours or while sitting at 70mph.
When this is happening, the engine temperature gauge will go up and down, but never reach 90, and the oil temperature reading fluctuates from around 60 to 80. Also the air into the car doesn't get hot enough, but now we're out of winter that doesn't matter too much.
But then other days it will be 100% fine - it rises up to 90 within 10 minutes of a cold start and stays there the whole day - and the oil temperature sits between 90 and 100.
I've taken it to a couple of VW dealers but obviously it behaves perfectly on those days! I remember reading something about a thermostat that circulates coolant to the DSG box, which can cause these kinds of symptoms?
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