Passat (B5) :: 99 V6 Starts To Flutter And RPMs Jump Up And Down
Jan 26, 2011
I have a 99 V6 original owner with 177,000 miles. The car has all the usual work done for its age and miles with one cam tensioner and associate seals, gaskets, water pump, etc.... Getting some burn oil smell and believe the other tensioner is starting to leak but it's not bad. Replacement of the cracked AC coil was difficult...
Lately when the car is in higher gears, light load, and RMPs around 1,400 to 1,800, the car starts to flutter and the rmps jump up and down a couple of hundred and you feel the car lurch a bit. It's not harsh. Feels like a miss but you don't feel much engine jump or knock. Under hard acceleration, the RMPs are smooth and no lurching.
When I back off down to 1,400 or 1,500 and accelerate easy, the problem returns. Sometimes I feel it up at 3,000 but not as pronounced. The car is not throwing codes.
All ignition components are fresh in the last year with wires, pugs, etc... I still need to get this car to 250K...
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I have a 1984 BMW 318i. When it gets to 3.5-4K rpm, it starts to miss and the tachometer starts to jump. What's wrong with it?
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I have a 2003 4 cylinder automatic Camry with around 108,000 miles. The other day, with the heating on, I felt it little lurch as well as a small jump in rpms at times while rolling on idle. This seemed to occur right after a hissing sound stopped after it sounded, pretty quietly, from the rear of the car for a couple seconds. To me it seems like the kind of a lurch I sometimes get when turning off the AC, which makes sense because the AC turning off reduces strain on the engine.
It's definitely not some really bad problem and no lights are on, but something I'm a little worried about nonetheless.
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OK, I'm coming to the end of my first month of ownership. Have put on about 1,000 miles (need to drive this thing more - it's so much fun!)
Anyway, once the car is warmed up - I come to a traffic light and sit at idle. Idle starts off evenly at about 700 RPM. After a minute or so, it seems to jump up to about 1,000 RPM. Can feel it "pull" a little. After a bit of time at 1,000 RPM, it seems to drop back to 700 - but not all the time.
Mentioned it to the dealer and got a response like, "they have these things cammed". I don't think it's a cam issue. Just wondering if this is normal behavior or if there is an adjustment or part needed.
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So Im going to post a series of graphs of boost compared to rpms. I also did fueling and wastegate. Im having an issue with alot of boost flutter and sluggishness
Idle lambda is at -1.3
Partial lambda is at 13.5
Graph one showing specified and actual boost compared to rpm
Got rid of the crappy autozone special sunpro boost gauge and installed the newsouth that bill shipped me.
Only getting -10 vac at idle
Spiking and holding around 24-25 psi and then it barely drops at all but it holds at 24psi for a while which is kind of scary....
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My 2006 B6 2.0T (K&N filter, Forge DV) has slowly lost it's "zippiness" over time,, and yes VW says "not a thing wrong with your car sir". Well now, I've started noticing that while going down hill in me neighborhood (about 30mph), note this has occurred before and after the DV install... My car's RPM starts to "flutter" (up and down continuously) from about 1100-1900rpm until I either come to a complete stop or go over 35-38mph to where I think the gear is engaged from the higher speed.
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My wife has a 2000 t&c with 150k on it its a fwd with 3.8 and about a month ago while driving we noticed the rpms will jump up 400 and go back, with cruise control on or off being held at a consistent speed. and about for days ago it started shifting late. Still has all gears fluid looks o.k. and is full no check engine light .
I am hearing transmission solenoid, tps sensor, input sensor, output sensor, tcm, iac, map, or egr are all possibilities or a rebuild . Or simple as a flush.. tonight i went out n started it it idles around 800 tried to hold it at 1200 and it would for a second and drop back to 800 with accelerator being slightly held. Not sure if related. Just observed it..
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1989 Saturn 5 speed, 4 cyl, 185,000 miles. Just started overrevving, when I try to go into 1st or 2nd or idle RPMS jump to 4500. So not a good thing. Do not tell me to buy a new car, not in the budget, or maybe it is.
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2003 Mazda6, 3.0 liter, 6 cylinder, FWD. My RPMs are starting to jump, so I believe a clutch replacement may be in line soon. However, I'm not a huge car guy, and I don't have much experience in regards to replacing clutches.
(1) The RPMs are jumping occasionally at higher gears (not every time). How long do you think I could go before the clutch dies completely? I'm not a "racer", and I just use my car for daily driving.
(2) Do mechanics replace clutches based on symptoms alone, or can they actually visually inspect the clutch and determine that it needs to be replaced?
(3) When replacing a clutch, what parts need to be replaced besides the actual clutch itself? Also, I've read about flywheels needing to be resurfaced, but is that necessary?
(4) What manufacturer makes good clutches? As mentioned, I'm not a hard driver or anything. Just need something that is good quality and affordable.
(5) Is the best way to save money (I'm a graduate student) to buy an aftermarket clutch and have the clutch installed by a local mechanic?
(6) At what mileages do clutches typically need to be replaced? I know it depends on how you drive. Let's say you're a casual driver and simply use your car to get to work, school, etc.
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Basically, when I just cruise in say 6th gear, and then step a little on the gas (or there is a hill), the engine rpm's jump up by like maybe 500 rpm's without a noticeable increase in speed, and there is no downshifting either.
I am sure this is normal, right? So what is the transmission doing? Coming from manuals only in the past, this seems strange.
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Multi information display is not working. Also the 12v battery keeps losing power requiring jump starts.
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My X keeps needing to be jumped and after being jumped it runs like a top as usual. Took it to Autozone and had them hookup their little portable doohikie and told me the battery is fine but the alternator should be pushing out 14a and it's only pushing 13? Didn't realize 1aI made that big of difference but whatever. I am taking the alternator off in a few minutes and I'm gonna have it bench tested to confirm the output.
Is there a heavier duty alt that I can get? I will be pulling an RV before too long so I'd like to get one that's gonna last. Btw, 2000 excursion limited v10 gas 6.8...
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I have manual shift and the clutch is worn out. when in motion if I press the pedal the rpms jump but the car does not accelerate. only way to accelerate is to press very gently.
Q: do I always need to change the flywheel, which is expensive or changing just the clutch will do??
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First & main issue: I throttle on, the RPMs jump, speed drops. I think I dealt w/ this before in my old Toyota pickup by replacing the clutch master cylinder. Is that right?
Secondly, I don't know if the engine of this lil car has been rebuilt, but the smoke from under the hood has been alarming. It smells of oil, and I've seen some spots that appear to have leaking oil dropping onto the exhaust, but the smoke keeps coming from various spots.
I really enjoy driving this lil car, it's my first Subaru and my first wagon, but if the trouble is just now starting for me, at over 210,000 miles... I've replaced a few things, but I've never owned a newer(ish) vehicle (except a Harley), and come to expect to do work every once in awhile. I'm fairly regular w/ preventative maintenance, but not strict about when to change fluids or flush things (i.e. transmission or radiator). Maybe I should just sell this one and move on.
I also hit a deer the other day going pretty fast and fortunately only busted out the passenger side head light, fog light, and blinker. The other day being over a month ago. I just don't drive at night and try to avoid right turns. Any thoughts on where to get cheap replacement parts? I can't seem to find anywhere that'll sell me those plastic bits for under a few hundred dollars.. strange considering a necessary part like a master cylinder is only $40..
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I have a 2004 Ford F150 and the battery keeps dying. We do not use the truck a lot and it sometimes sits outside for 2-4 weeks without being used. If it sits that long, it might be completely dead, but starts up easily with a jump and then works fine for a while. The battery is a 650 amp Motocraft w prorated replacement from 37-100 mo. The local Ford dealer has checked it several times in the past 2 yr and said it is fine, and that if the truck sits for a couple of weeks the battery will die. Is that right? I am not a car moron, nor am I an expert, but I am concerned that they are missing a small draw somewhere in the system. Should I be concerned about a draw or is this just something that happens to batteries as they get older?
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Truck was dead- 2001 F250 V10... Has a starter relay (solinoid) behind battery... put a new relay in there- no go- cleaner terminals... then I put key in start and shorted the 2 terminals in the relay and she cranked right up. That would mean the starter is still good correct?? something in the ignition system?
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Came out of day of work to find my passat dead. Couldn't unlock it with the remote..no lights...no power at all. Hooked up my friends car to jump it...got the lights to come on but could never get the car to get past the clicking/lights flickering stage.
Never had battery problems before this, so I am confused as to how it just totally died. Tried for a long time to jump it....no luck. As soon I as I would unhook the other car, mine would die completely and I would have no lights, locks, anything.
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This all started out when I wanted to change my original plugs that had 200k miles on them. I have that part done now and new wires. Then it wouldn't start without me starting it while holding the gas pedal down. Then I would have to press the pedal down or it would die.
I may need to clean the throttle body. I bought some Valvoline Throttle Body Cleaner and cleaned the throttle body it was black inside and now it's nice and clean. After that the car starts up fine except on the first try. It starts up and idles at around 2,000 rpms. When I press the brake it drops to 1,000, then back up to 2,000. The strangest part is I have no acceleration power now. I can press the pedal to the floor and it will only go to 3,000 rpms. It will slowly get faster as I drive but there's no immediate response when I press the pedal down.
Why would cleaning the throttle body do this? It throws a code when I first start it and it dies the P1110 code but I think that is because the rpms are at 600 when it catches it. No misfire codes or anything, so I think the plugs and wires are working. Just the faster than normal idle now and no power when I press the pedal down.
Would the throttle body cleaner hurt the throttle position sensor?
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I bought my gti about a month ago and every time I warm it up in the morning or any time it has been sitting over a long period of time the rpms sit at about 1300 until about a minute and it goes under 1k ... I am not to familiar with this issue.
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