Passat (B5) :: 2006 - Not Starting Easily After Getting Gas
May 31, 2010
Every time i put gas into the car, it always takes a couple tries to start it back up. I guess the main question is why? No matter how full the tank is or how empty it is, every time gas goes into it the car won't start right away. I usually try once, then have to wait another 30 sec and try again, then it will start. So my question is why does it have trouble starting after I put gas in it?
Passat 2002 v6
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I've got a 2003 Jetta GLS 2.0L 5 speed that i bought a few months ago. It's a great car but there is one issue...whenever i fill up at the pump it will not start for quite some time. In order to get it to run I have to pump the throttle while turning it over. Once it starts it runs like crap for a bit but it does smooth out. This isn't a huge deal only cause I only put gas in it once a week but at the same time it's annoying. The check engine light was not on at first but after a week or two it came on. I cannot remember the code off hand but it was for a Massive EVAP leak??
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Driving home from school today i went to put my shifter into tip mode to get on the highway and it just slid over way too easily. after that it just slides back and forth from tip to drive with the slightest tap or when im goin around a turn. Am I just too rough on my car?
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1. Impossible to clean them completely. I've experimented with lots of brands and combos of cleaners and wipes - Armor All glass wipes, Invisible Glass (gets the best results so far), Windshield Wonder (wet and dry pads), newspaper, shop towels, microfiber, chamois (wet and dry), lint free towels. As much as I can, I wipe horizontally across the entire surface inside and vertically on the outside so I can see whats amiss. Nothing gets them totally clean, always some sort of streaks or residue show up when the sun or a headlight hits it just right.
2. They fog way too easily. This may be a symptom of the insane amount of snow and rain we've had in my area in the year I've owned it and the resulting overall humidity. But lately I have noticed the rear window begins to fog when the temp drops below 50 degrees F. All the windows fog if more then 2 people are in the car unless I have the A/C going. There is no wetness in the carpeting from a leak into the cabin. I don't know if any drains are clogged, nor do I know where to look for them.
I've owned a few VW's and they have all had the same types of issues compared to other car brands I've owned, but this Passat seems to be worse than other VW's. Or maybe I'm just more concerned with having a nice clean car now.
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I'm currently at 115k miles on my 2.0t automatic 2006 passat. As of last week my transmission is starting to act up. my car has been driven on the highway 90% of its life. the shifts are becoming very hard and it is not shifting at the right revs from time to time, sometimes itll go into 4th gear and chirp the tires.
yesterday the dashboard showed me in 2nd gear at all times when it was obviously shifting . the dash also showed that all the gears were selected along with park, reverse, and sport mode while i was in drive.
the interesting part is that when i drive my car in tiptronic mode, there are no issues with shifting and the shifts are normal, not slamming into gear. the dealer has not looked at the car yet but they said it could be a sensor or a true transmission issue.
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Usually in the morning after starting the car, when I put the car into reverse the car stalls. I start it up again and it works fine. It has been doing this for a few months. When I went to get oil change they said I needed to replace battery so I did. Problem is still there. It has done this twice when I try to take off from a red light. I have no check engine lights either. My car has 105,000 miles but cannot really afford to buy a new car at the moment.
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So this morning I started my car to let it warm up (as I usually do), but noticed it shut off after a few minutes. It did this twice. 3rd time I tried to start it nothing happened, so I waited a minute then tried again, that time it started. Drove it to work without any issues.
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192,852 miles. I pushed down on the wiring harness when reattaching the (now) somewhat shorter "H" hose. Thought this could be a problem, so I then ran the "H" hose UNDER the harness (which seemed better). Any chance I could've broken a wire in the harness? I didn't move it very much at all, but those wires have been drying out for 13 years now. The car started right up afterward repairing the hose, but suddenly stopped after idling for about 5-7 minutes ... then it wouldn't start again for at least 15 minutes when it "caught" and idled for about 1 minute. Hasn't started again since. Besides the usual P0430 and P1131 codes, I noticed two other codes: P1744 and P0340.
Don't know if they just showed up today or if they've been there a while. My guess is it's the latter because I once saw P1744 about 7+ years ago and it was due to the cooling system not cooling the tranny fluid sufficiently (which is what has been happening again lately with the coolant leaking out of the "H" hose ... and the Degas tank before that). Temp gauge has been running past mid-scale at idle ... an indication of low fluid, and I've been filling as needed to prevent overheating until this weekend when I finally installed a new "T" on the "H" hose (it was leaking at the molded "T"). P0340 I saw pop up about a year ago during very cold weather. I wouldn't doubt that the damn magnet on the sensor has once again fallen into the synchro like it did 8+ years ago, but would this cause a no-start condition? I wouldn't think so... The car cranks plenty strong. Just won't "catch" and start. Up until today and the hose job, it had been running fine. Even drove it this morning about 10 miles. Could I have a coincidental fuel pump failure? Seems TOO coincidental, doesn't it?
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My wife has arthritis problems in her hips and knees, so we always buy cars with leather seats so she can slide in and out easily. This 2013 Prius v Five has the Softex imitation leather seats, which just don't slide very well. I complained at the dealer and asked if I could use something like saddle soap. They said not to use anything on them, and contacted an upholstery shop they have dealt with in the past. They will replace the seat bottoms with real leather (but not a perfect color match)
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I have a 2007 Suzuki XL7. About a year ago it started having trouble starting after fueling. Every time you put fuel in the vehicle it would take a few times before it would start. We've had it to several mechanics. They replaced the gas cap and did a few other small things. Nothing worked. We took it to have it diagnosed on the computer 3 different times (twice by the dealer). They only tell us that there is something with the timing sync code. The vehicle now has 190,000 miles on it.
Recently, it's started to act up more often. As the car warms up and is used more throughout the day it becomes more and more difficult to start. It has also had a few instances where you would get it started and you push on the gas and it won't go. This problem is getting increasingly more frustrating. I've talked to my regular mechanic about these issues and his belief is that it is some sort of fuel issue.
Unfortunately, he is more of a backyard mechanic and doesn't have a computer to diagnose it. I recently took it to yet another mechanic and have gotten the runaround by them. The man there told me he would get me an estimate written up with an explanation of what he feels is wrong with it. It's been two weeks since then and I've called a dozen times with no luck. Mechanics are truly frustrating to me. My friend said, call Car Talk, so here I am...desperately hoping you might have a clue as to what is going on with the vehicle.
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I am having trouble shifting my 6 speed into 2nd, 4th, and 6th. I got my clutch replaced about a year ago, not sure if that makes a difference. Any fixes short of bringing it to a shop?
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This has been an issue for a long time. The entire panel behind the center compartment with the cup holder would just come off for no reason. When if first happened, I was driving and it just felt right off. I snapped it back in place and it looked tight. But every now and then, it will just come off itself. Everytime I snapped it back in place but with just a little tap from the side of the cup holder, it's off again.
I've had it and I told the service advisor about the problem as I brought the car to the dealer for an oil change. The guy claimed he has never seen anything like this before and called the service manager to take a look. Then they looked at other gen2 priuses they had. Almost everyone of them came off with just a tap from the side. One of them required a little more effort but it's still very easy to take that off.
Then they told me it's normal since all Priuses they checked are like that. "We didn't design it, we just fix it".. Well that's true but that sounded a little irresponsible. They ordered a new part hoping it will get it fixed. Lucky it's still under warranty. I'll see what's next.
I think this is a manufacturer defect. I really didn't expect something like this from a Toyota. We rarely use the rear seats. Even when we did, I'm pretty sure the cup holders were not used, or being put on a heavy load or anything.
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Why I'm suddenly having trouble starting my 2010 Prius when cold? I depress the brake and push the start button, but lately, sometimes the car doesn't start. It will start as if I didn't have my foot on the brake and the dash will light up. To get it to start fully I have to depress the brake and hold the start button down for 10-20 seconds. Then it starts.
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My "Smart Master Key (type C)" falls apart too easily. I had the smart key together with my house keys, and so far I had to put it together twice. The last time all the little keys and one of the plastic cover fell down as I pulled it the key from its place on the steering wheel.
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I have a 1967 Porsche 912. Today it was being a bit difficult getting fired up. Third time was the charm, but once in gear it had no power at all. The tachometer was around 3.5k in first before it even found the 10mph neighborhood ad took its sweet time to get there when shifting into second the car died. I turned her right around an put her to bed. I am thinking carburetor...
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I brought my 2000 9-5 Saab to Jiffy Lube on July 13th. On July 18th, it wouldn't start. It would turn over and everything, but it would just sit there and do the, "ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh ruh." I waited half an hour, and tried it again and to my surprise, it started. I drove it home without issue. The next morning, it did the same thing, but this time, it didn't start. Had it towed to the Saab guy, he says there's no compression in two of the cylinders and that it's going to be $1000 to fix the thing. I called someone for a second opinion, and he asked if I had run out of oil because no compression usually means an issue with the oil or something. Could Jiffy Lube have done something to cause an issue, and if so, is there anything that I can do about it?
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My 1994 Honda Accord has just lately had a start up problem. I try to start it, it turns over easily enough, but will not start. Have had a mechanic look at it two or three times but it started for him so he was unable to find the problem. If I keep trying, it sometimes will finally start, but the last time it happened it started to sound like it was running down the battery so I called the mechanic and set up an appt to have it checked. After several hours I tried it again and it started right up again so I canceled the appt. This has happened numerous times just lately and the mechanic cannot find the problem because for some reason it has eventually started each time. There seems to be no rhyme nor reason about why or when this happens and I never know when it is going to do this. I am to the point of hoping that it absolutely will NOT start at all just so the problem can be found.
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2003 Ford Taurus, 49k miles, 3.0 OHV V6 (Vulcan).
It's my daughter's car, she's away at college, so it only gets driven once a week at the most. For the last year or so when I turn the key to start, the starter starts to turn, hesitates for a second, and then turns over and starts the car. I've been assuming the battery was a little run down from sitting so much. There are no noises, clicking or grinding, just this slight hesitation. The battery terminals are clean.
Last night it wouldn't start on the first try, I had to turn the key 2 to 3 times before the starter would turn the engine over. I took the battery to Advance Auto and it tested fine but needs a charge (~12.2V). I'm slow charging the battery with a Battery Tender so it's going to take a while.
This hesitation, is it a sign of a failing starter?
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Clutch won't shift on a HOT day. When its hot I can't shift very easy between gears. However, the clutch is newer and so it works just fine. When its cold its sometimes tough but not as hard at all. Could it be a clutch master cylinder or slave cylinder? Do I need to bleed it?
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Who invented this thing---so I pry up the 3 metal clips on the cover and on the opposite side there are 4 plastic stuck in 4 plastic holes. Then I get on a stepladder to get enough leverage to yank them out to expose the filter.
Is there an easier way to open this thing? Was I supposed to disconnect the rubber hose first?
My 2006 5.4L had the air filter in a simple to pull open drawer---2 seconds open, 2 seconds closed!
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I am getting 14MPG out of my 2007 with a 4.2L 5 speed manual single cab. That seems pretty low to me considering the HWY MPG is rated at 19mpg.
My son and I have also noticed when taking off from a stop it is very easy to kill the engine, it seems to happen more so in Reverse but does it a lot going forward. I have driven many stick shifts and this one is by far the worst as far as it dying on take off, really I have never seen one this bad.
I have also noticed some spark knocking at HWY speeds and it also feels like it has a miss a idle but when you push the gas it runs fine.
Installed Motorcraft Platinum plugs a few months back and checked all the gaps. Also new orielly brand plug wires at the same time.
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