Passat (B5) :: 2006 GLS V6 - Pressure Forcing The Oil To Leak Out The Seals
Aug 20, 2006
I can smell oil buring on the engine untill the oil level gets more than a quart low. The dealer says there is pressure building up in the crankcase that is forcing the oil to leak out the seals. There is some kind of plastic relief valve (y shaped) that tends to plug up and I've had several of them replaced. But the oil continues to leak. Dealer is down to last idea. He thinks that exhaust blow by is causing the pressure & plans to replace the rings to eliminate that. Does this sound like the correct solution? There are 94,000 muiles on the car.
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on Friday i was down 2qts of oil so i topped it off and went for a 40-50 mile drive. as i got to my destination, i noticed the pressure going down from 190 to maybe 170? and when i took off from a stop light, i noticed that it just accelerated for awhile like the car was in neutral, then it caught the gears and continued on my way. when i got to the destination, i had some oil leak/tranny leak. not sure yet and also smoking in the engine bay like oil spilled on the exhaust manifold.
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This is is a truck I hardly know anything about. My wife bought it while I was deployed for herself and when it comes to vehicles she's an idiot. No, really she told me she bought it because at horse shows everyone else has one.
I noticed an oil leak and had a reputable shop look at it. They told me it was coming from some seals on the turbo. Long story short there is a brand new turbo on there, stock replacement. Now it seems very under powered and shifts hard. Pressing down anything more than 25% throttle will cause hard shifting or no shifting at all. It'll stay in second until I ease off the throttle.
I tried searching a few terms but I'm not sure what to look for. I don't know if someone has messed with the tuning. Broken clamp on the turbo. Replaced and everything is back to normal...
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My 06' Camry has 141k on it and when I start it up in the morning it smokes and I have been told it is the valve stem seals, and since I'm pretty handy with a wrench. I was wondering all the tools and steps there are to replacing them and if you actually have to take the head off or not?
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I have some serious work that needs to be done on my car. The catalytic converter needs replacing, and the valve cover gasket and cam adjuster seals need to be replaced. This work falls under their respective warranties. However, I'm wondering if I should have the water pump and timing belt done at the same time as I have 77000+ miles on my car. Is there anything else that would be good to do at the same time as this work. I would be going back to the VW service center for these repairs. Would it save me any money to do this all together?
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2006 Passat 2.0T
- Three days ago, after a cold start, while driving to work "STOP! OIL PRESSURE ENGINE OFF" came on the display and disappeared right away.
- Drove the car to work and did not stop.
- Came back home and saw "Some" Fluid leak on my driveway. I touched it but did not seem like engine oil (I am making this assumption based on the fact that the fluid was not dark, but it was oily".
- I have not received that warning after that single incident.
- I have not seen any new leaks either.
- But, when I press the accelerator, there is a ticking noise.. something like - if you put a card in a bicycle wheel.
My car is due for service. So taking to the dealer day after tomorrow. Miles: 70870....
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I have a 2005 Toyota Highlander. Ever since I got 4 new tires (~1 year ago), my low pressure light goes on about once every 6 weeks. Each time, there is at least one tire that's dropped about 2 lbs below recommended psi. Had it to the dealer (where I purchased the tires) and they told me there's no leak in any of the tires; that the low psi is because of fluctuation in the weather temps and subsequent fluctuation in tire pressure. I've never had this issue on any other car before. Are they pulling my chain b/c they don't want to replace bad tires or is this a legit reason?
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I have a 2010 VW Beetle. I did not use my car during the Christmas holiday and when I came back home I got 4 flat tires. Then I had it towed to the mechanic but they said they didn't find any leaks or punctures in any of the tires and it was just because the freezing cold weather. After 2 weeks I had flat tires again and I went to another mechanic, they told me the same thing but a few days later the low tire pressure light keeps showing on the dashboard and the tires become pretty flat every other day (about 15 psi). This is really bothering me because I have to go to the gas station to put air in the tire everyday.
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I have a gas leak at the connection of the High Pressure Fuel Pump and high pressure fuel pipe. Gas drips and sprays out from the nut area (see pic). The car take a several seconds to turn over to start.
What is the most likely cause? The car is out of warranty, so trying to repair myself without having to replace any expensive parts unnecessarily.
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My'97 Lincoln has developed a non pressure transmission fluid leak. It shows up on the street, but I measure it with the car sitting for a week and it amounted to about 2 teaspoons but the dipstick still shows "do not add". When it gets to the "add" point on the dipstick, how much transmission fluid would that be?
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My AC went last fall. I saw signs of a leak in the high pressure line. Took it to the Nissan dealer last week and they diagnosed the same problem. They changed the HP line. Told me it was good, but when they pulled it up, no AC. They took it back in and said the low pressure line was leaking as well so they changed it. Still didn't work, although it was a little cooler but the compressor seemed pretty loud. Told me they thought it might be the thermistor. I bought the sensor and replaced it myself. AC seemed to work, but sure enough, it only blows slightly cool air and the compressor is still making a bit of noise.
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I have a 1992 Buick Century with a 3.3L V6. I noticed a hissing sound under the hood with the motor running. The short vacuum hose (about 2 inches) connected at the fuel pressure regulator was loose and leaking. I shut the engine, remove the end of the hose and a little gas (about a teaspoon) came out of the vacuum pipe for awhile and then it stopped.
I tightened (but did not overtighten) the end of the hose with a nylon wire tie. There was no existing clamp on it. The vacuum leak stopped (no more hissing). Now, the car is sometimes hard to start or restart. Do I have a serious problem? Did I do the right thing? Could this be caused by a clogged fuel filter? (it was changed 42000 miles ago).
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Truck has a high oil pressure leak, only leak i have found is in the high pressure rail, I cannot get to it till sat, or sunday. So I have to let the oil cool before I can start. Any way testing to find the right temp for Oil to thicken enough to Build? I've been here for hours and its went from 180's to about 100 now...
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I have a High pressure oil leak somewhere, and where it can be. I tore the oil rails out and replaced the nipple cup seals last night. I got it all back together and air tested it and sure enough a leak is present. I have no problem paying for your time (I always provide good beer). I can rebuild gas motors all day long, but these diesels has me thrown for a loop. The frustration I am experiencing is crazy at this point. All the injectors are new, and the dummy plugs and standpipes were replaced as well.
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My local dealer (who seems very good) suggested they repair an oil leak at the timing chain cover before my 60K warranty expired. Kept the car 2 days waiting for parts. Then some very odd problems developed.
First I noticed the AC wasn't working: fan runs but will not blow cold. Dealer said must be something else because they didn't touch the AC. Then after a half hour of driving the AC suddenly starts blowing cold.
Maybe an hour of driving later, the dash beeps, alerts, and "low oil pressure" comes on the screen. Shut it off & have it towed to dealer.
While checking the mileage at the dealer, the service adviser and I both see the dash beep, alert, and ABS and Trak alarms go off.
Tech resets the computer but says he can't find any error codes. Systems and oil pressure all seem ok.
I drive 10 min, and.... beep, alert, "low oil pressure".
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I have a 2009 Jeep Grand Cherokee. One of the tire valves has a slow leak. I figured I could get a new valve. But, instead, the guy reminds me that the valve has the pressure sensor built in. He could put in a regular stem, but then the light on the instrument panel would never go out and I'm assuming I couldn't get through inspection like that.
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I recently had an upper radiator hose bust and ever since I have been having a slight water leak. It appeared to be coming from between the layers of rubber on the new hose which I replaced twice since the incident. Both hoses had water seeping from the same location. This afternoon I plan on doing a pressure test on the cooling system to diagnose where the water may be coming from.
My question is could a loss of pressure cause larger than normal Oil and Water deltas? If I have to replace the radiator is there a particular manufacturer or type I should avoid? Should I try to get a factory replacement from Ford or would an Autoparts unit be sufficient? The original is still in the truck now with 286,000 miles on it.
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I have a leak in the fuel pressure regulator housing. Seems like a common problem. I ordered the new kit from FICMrepair.
While I wait for the new kit to arrive, is there any risk other than loosing a few mm of diesel fuel driving the van? Will the leak damage injectors?
It's not gushing out. I have smelled diesel fuel for the past 3 months and could not locate it until last weekend.
The kit is coming next week and I like driving the diesel van over my under powered 6 cylinder E150.
I want to clean out the EGR while I have everything apart. I have heard that some people just disconnect it. There is a write up about in the tech folder and it went way over my head.
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These are my gauge readings at 70 degrees Fahrenheit. According to an AC conversion for gauges calibrated in Pascals, 35-40F converts to 241-276 KPa, 140-160F converts to 1000-1103Kpa. The gauges are in Mpa which by conversion is 3 decimal points to the left so .241-.276 and 1-1.103 Mpa. Here are my gauge readings at 68 degrees ambient temp. Rear air is same as an ambient temp on max ac and the front is pictured. There seem to be virtually no pressure differences which I would interpret as a novice that there is ) freon flow.
There is freon in the system with the high pressure being approx correct but the low side is too high if I understand correctly. Basically when at highway speeds at 75 degrees yesterday the front AC was cold and the rear was outside vent temp only. There are slight leaks in the low and high-pressure valves. I have a Mastercool replacement tool but they did not send a fitting for the high-pressure valve. What these readings mean as far as what may be wrong?
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Just had dealer repair shop complete power steering fluid flush in Jan 2013. Vehicle now has lost all power steering fluid (April 2013) and dealer repair shop has told me it is due to high pressure hose failure - need to replace & then verify pump condition (dealer repair shop not sure if pump bad until hose replaced to test) for repair bill.. I was told this was not related to repair shop power steering flush because this hose not removed for flush or part of that procedure (at which time a transmission flush & spark plugs replaced (minor tune-up) . Just wondering if any pro mechanic can respond with advice about the relative close time frame these two events & if there may be a probable related reason?
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I have an 03 Accent. The all metal high pressure power steering line had a leak. So I bought a new one for around 70 dollars from Hyundai. This part has a curved shape and fits around the radiator. The old one was difficult to get off, but the new one is proving impossible to get on. I cant get it into place.
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