Passat (B5) :: 2005 - Spark Plug Cable Burned / CEL Came On
Dec 26, 2009
I have a 2005 passat 1.8t, whose check engine light had been on for some time. But yesterday when driving home, after visiting a friend, i noticed the check engine light flashing and the car refusing to accelerate, i managed to park after few minutes and switched off the engine. on coming out of the car i noticed smoke coming out of the bonnet. I quickly open the bonnet and made my way into the top of the engine with mechanic only to discover after opening one of the plug compartments that the plug cable/wire is burnt. The Engine could not start even after removing the burnt wire and plug completely.
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I was wondering is there a way to have an audio input cable plugged into the glove box cd changer female socket?.I just want to connect anything,by doing this i can connect my mp3,iphone or any other audio device's output.
I do not have the AUX option.
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Had the #2 ignition coil go bad (for the second time, mileage is only 84K) and decided to proactively replace all the spark plugs at the same time. #2 coil came out fine and replaced the plug with a toyota irridium. However, the #4 and #6 coils each separated from their respective boots. I was unable to extract either boot. I was able to re-insert the coils without replacing the spark plugs and the engine is running fine (no codes). Before I take on #1 , 3, and 5, I'd like to extract the stuck boots in #4 and 6 and replace the plugs.
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I own a v10 and am getting ready to assist a buddy out with his 05 5.4l. He wants me to change the spark plugs out. I have changed the spark plugs on my 04 v10. I think this is the year for went to the 2 piece spark plugs. Also what torq setting should I torq them to? Should I also use anti seize with them or no? Does the gap need to be set on the plugs? I dont have a book to go buy.
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I just changed the plugs in my 05 stx 4x4 4.6L. Truck was running fine, never a problem but it has 105k so I figured id change them. #4 was the only one that gave me a little problem (besides being so tight). The coil and spring pulled off the boot, and I had to get a pair of pliers and get the boot off the plug.
I simply slid the spring back through the boot and replaced it once I had changed the plug. Other than that they all came out easily. I replaced with motorcraft plugs, and #5 did have what looked like some oil down on the threads when I pulled it out, but not sure if that's a big deal or not
Any way, I am torn between ordering new boots and changing them out, or just biting the bullet and getting 8 new coils with new boots attached. Truck runs fine, but does the usual buck/jerk under a load in overdrive now (never once did it before)...
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I had first two spark plugs break off in my 2005 F150 before stopping. I ran five tanks of injector cleaner through using different brands of cleaner. The next six plugs removed without any issues.
Since then, I replaced 2 plugs after 25000 miles. Used one tank of injector cleaner and had no problem.
I would suggest that anyone planning on changing plugs run some injector cleaner through before the change. The cleaner seems to remove the carbon build-up around the plugs.
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How to get the spark plug out of cylinder #4. I have the kit to take out the base of the plug out of the head if it breaks off. But I can't get the plug out. I think the plug broke off but not the electrode. So the electrode is caught up in the porcelain tip of the plug. It's pretty tight back there with the a/c lines and fuel rail and other stuff. I tried needle nose but they just don't grip it right, to get enough force to pull it. These are the plugs with the extended tips.
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Have a 2005 F350 4x4 SRW 5.4L with roughly 90k miles and I am replacing the original plugs. Broke three out of seven which was expected and have them replaced. You probably noticed I wrote 7 plugs above. The 8th plug which happens to be the #8 plug is giving me fits. I can't get a socket on it. The socket spins smoothly by hand with no ratchet over the plug but no upward movement. I cleaned the base of the hole thinking it might have some debris preventing it from hitting bottom. From what I can see after cleaning and blowing it out, the base of the hole is clean and there plug appears to have something for the socket grab onto. Out of curiosity, I have tried smaller and larger sockets in both 6 and 12 point with no luck. Is it possible the plug was set too deep in the head from the factory?
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I am getting a cylinder 5 misfire and this has been a "on again off again" situation since last August. I took it around to a few places and the general solution was to get new spark plugs. After doing a bit more research I was advised to change the coil cover. I did that and it fixed the problem. Then about 4 months later the light came on again. I happened to change the air filter and the light went off. I though great, problem solved! not so much, when i went to the mountains the other day the light came back on. I did my research again and I have decided to get the plugs changed. Its a 2005 f150 with 94,500 miles on it.
I am told its time to change them regardless. I started calling around and getting quotes and have been told by multiple shops that ford made the plugs in my truck in a bad way. They have been telling me to change them and breaking them is a 50/50 shot. THEN, when they quote me they charge a rate to replace them plus the plugs themself. If they happen to break one then the customer pays for the new one. Do the plugs would really break that easy and should I plan on replacing some of them?
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I have a F150 which has developed a miss or hesitation when driving. I took it into my mechanic and he told me this:
This year truck is famous for needing a tune up but the problem is that ford redesigned the spark plugs for these years of trucks. The problem is hat carbon builds up and when u go to remove them the plugs break and sometimes you have to take the heads off to get them out, he said that this would cost around I 2500 is one breaks!
So my question then becomes is this the norm for my V8 2005 Ford F150?
My truck has 85,556 miles on it.
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Usually the valve cover gasket leaks and causes the usual problems, oil leaks onto manifolds, oil loss. I changed the plugs on my 2003 V6 only to find ALL the gaskets around the plugs are leaking a lot of oil. This explains the slightly unusual amount of oil loss I've been seeing. In one sense that is good cause it means the valve guides and rings may be fine after all.
I bought the gasket set and plan on replacing the 4 of them in the kit but thought I'd ask if others have seen this and can speak of what they experienced as to the cause. It seems fishy that the valve cover gaskets are not leaking at all. The car was smoged a couple weeks ago and it passed the PCV test so does not seem there's a pressure problem from a clogged valve.
The first time I changed the plugs, there was no oil. The engine has 115,000 and runs great, I plan on having the timing belt service done very soon but thought about asking if these gaskets are going to be replaced anyhow in that servicing? 2003 V6 Passat...
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01 vw passat 1.8, spark plug hole number 2 is full of liquid possibly anti freeze, head gasket looks wet. Water pump is pumping and thermostat is opening, car overheated. Also my engine clicks so bad it sounds like a diesel when i am below 1500 rpms but above with more oil pressure it's fine, I have been told camshaft.
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My dad was changing his plugs today (2000 passat 1.8t) and he found some oil down in the holes for the plugs on the front two cylinders (closest to the front of the car) and also on the plugs themselves, and needless to say hes a little concerned. he doesn't think there should be any there. headgasket?? He has 105k miles...
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2004 passat 1.8t. How do I remove the coil packs on the top of the spark plugs, so I can repalce the plugs.
I unclipped the wire and unsure how to pull the coil pack off.
No bolts. can turn it and maybe pull, but doesn't budge and don't want to break.
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Getting error code p0302, misfire in 2, pulled the plug and had oil on the treads and on the lower part. My guess is the valve cover gasket, but I'm not 100 percent sure.
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The rear spark plug boot, the kind that goes down into the center of the engine, pops up about a quarter inch every so often. I have switched the boots and cleaned the walls of the plug area and it pops up on the rear cylinder only. This is a 2002 Passat 4 cylinder Turbo with 163,000 miles on it.
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I've had the plug wire for my #4 cylinder burn out twice in the last 6 months. The car started running like crap and threw a CEL, the code was for a number #4 cylinder misfire. When I pulled the wire it has obvious signs of being burned out, like white powder and burn spots near the base of the wire where it goes over the plug. The plug and coil both look normal. No issues with the other cylinders. What could cause it?
This is on my '05 Santa Fe, 2.7l, FWD auto, with 180k miles
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Gps and satellite radio plug in power line fuse burned out three times. What could be the issue with Toyota Camery 2012 plug in. Toyota Camery 2012 recall list have no mention about plug-in issues. What is the problem with the plug in power line?
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I got a 05 Passat I am working on. The car was being drove and my customer when to eat lunch. Came out side and didn't start. Got it to my house threw it on the scanner and it brought up 2 cam sensor codes. Replaced them and still nothing. What to try next. The car cranks over fine and it does have fuel pressure and also has spark.
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ive been meaning to change my spark plugs cause I had gotten an error code for a misfire but it seemed to go away.now some time last week I was kinda racing a friend of mine on the highway was doing like about 80-90 mph when the check engine light came on and the check VSC and the car started like sputtering. so I was thinking ok great the misfire is happening again, but this time it was different it would stutter at low speeds before it would stutter like around 70 mph. so I parked the car ordered new spark plugs when I went to change them one of them had oil on it and the ignition coil. it was the one closet to the front of the car on the passenger side. my question is what could cause this to happen.
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I want to change spark plug, took connector of spark unit and took bolt M6 out, lifted spark unit but not enough clearance to remove the unit in order to use wrench for unscrewing spark plug. How it works?
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